This hanging toilet paper holder has three soft baskets stacked one above the other. Two red straps connect them and loop through a wooden ring at the top. Each basket holds one standard roll standing upright, with the top of the roll showing above the rim.
The baskets are worked in a warm cream cotton and finished with a cherry-red base edge and a chunky red rim. Across the front of each basket, two red strawberries with white seeds and green leaf caps sit on a green slip-stitch vine. A small white flower with a yellow center sits between them, and there is one more flower and leaf on each side. The look is cottage-style and a little vintage, which works well in a bathroom.
All instructions use US crochet terms. One basket measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm) square at the base and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. The assembled holder is about 16.5 in (41.9 cm) from the bottom basket to the top of the strap loop, or about 19.25 in (48.9 cm) including the ring.
Construction is simple. You work a square base in joined rounds of single crochet, then turn it upward into straight walls with a back-loop round. Each basket gets a three-round red rim and its appliqués. Then two long straps are sewn up the back of all three baskets and folded through the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (one basket): 5.25 in x 5.25 in (13.3 cm x 13.3 cm) base, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Finished size (assembled): about 16.5 in (41.9 cm) without the ring, about 19.25 in (48.9 cm) with it
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 2 straps, 6 strawberries, 6 leaf caps, 9 flowers, 12 leaves
- Layout: 1 column x 3 baskets, hung vertically with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps
- Piece size: 80 stitches around, 21 stitches per side (including the 2 shared corner stitches)
- Size before border: wall height 2.75 in (7.0 cm)
- Border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm), 3 rounds
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. It gives crisp stitches and baskets that keep their shape. The amounts below assume about 92 m per 50 g.
- Cream (main color): 100 g / 184 m
- Red (base edges, rims, straps, strawberries): 50 g / 92 m
- Green (vines, leaves, caps): 20 g / 37 m
- White (flowers, seeds): 10 g / 18 m
- Yellow (flower centers): 5 g / 9 m
These quantities include a margin of roughly 20–30% to cover a test piece and any frogging.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) diameter
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Pins and a spray bottle for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitch – reverse single crochet: Work from left to right (if you are right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This makes the twisted, corded edge on the rim.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each sc is close to square, which is what keeps the base flat.
Before making all three baskets, make one base through Round 10 and measure it. That base is your gauge test.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 5 (40 sts): one side measures about 2.75 in (7.0 cm)
- After Round 9 (72 sts): one side measures about 4.75 in (12.1 cm)
- After Round 10 (80 sts): one side measures 5.25 in (13.3 cm)
- After Round 21: the wall is 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall
- After Round 24: the wall is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
If the base is bigger than 5.5 in (14.0 cm), change to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is smaller than 5 in (12.7 cm), change to a 5.5 mm hook, or the roll may not fit. If the base cups, your tension is tighter than the gauge, so loosen it. If it ruffles, tighten it.
Basket (Make 3)
Work order for each basket: base, wall, rim (see Border), then appliqués. Join the baskets only after all three are finished.
Join every round with a sl st to the first sc. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Base
The corner st is the center sc of each 3-sc group. Mark each corner st and move the markers up every round.
Round 1 (Cream): Magic ring, ch 1, 8 sc in ring, join. (8 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, (3 sc in next st, sc in next st) 4 times, join. (16 sts; 5 per side)
Round 3: Ch 1, *sc in each st to the corner st, 3 sc in corner st; repeat from * 3 more times, sc in each remaining st, join. (24 sts; 7 per side)
Rounds 4–9: Repeat Round 3.
- Round 4: 32 sts (9 per side)
- Round 5: 40 sts (11 per side)
- Round 6: 48 sts (13 per side)
- Round 7: 56 sts (15 per side)
- Round 8: 64 sts (17 per side)
- Round 9: 72 sts (19 per side)
Fasten off cream.
Round 10 (Red): Join red in any st and repeat Round 3. (80 sts; 21 per side)
Each side count includes both corner sts. Every corner is shared by two sides, so 4 x 21 – 4 = 80.
Wall
Round 11 (Red, turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (80 sts)
This round turns the edge upward and puts a red line along the bottom of the basket. Move each marker to the st directly above its corner. Fasten off red.
Round 12 (Cream): Join cream, ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80 sts)
Rounds 13–21: Repeat Round 12. (80 sts each)
The wall now has 11 rounds and is 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall. Fasten off cream.
Appliqués
Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail on every appliqué for sewing.
Strawberry (Make 6, Red)
Round 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, (dc, tr, dc) in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st, join. (17 sts)
The tr forms the point of the berry, and the 2-sc groups widen the top. Each berry is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall and 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide. With white yarn, embroider 6–7 short straight stitches or French knots as seeds.
Leaf Cap (Make 6, Green)
Magic ring, *ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, sl st in ring; repeat from * 4 more times. Pull the ring closed. (5 points)
Flower (Make 9)
Round 1 (Yellow): Magic ring, ch 1, 5 sc in ring, join. (5 sts) Fasten off.
Round 2 (White): Join white in any st, *(ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in same st, sl st in next st; repeat from * 4 more times, ending the last repeat in the joining st. (5 petals)
Each flower is about 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Leaf (Make 12, Green)
Ch 7. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch. Turn the piece and work along the other side of the chain: hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch. (13 sts)
Each leaf is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long.
Placement on Each Basket
Number the 21 sts of a side from corner to corner, 1 through 21.
- Vine: With green, work surface sl sts across the front from st 3 to st 19, waving gently between Rounds 15 and 18.
- Strawberries: Center one berry over st 6 and one over st 16, within Rounds 13–20. Sew a leaf cap to the top of each berry, overlapping the vine.
- Flower: Center it over st 11 at Round 17.
- Front leaves: Sew one leaf on the vine at sts 8–9 and one at sts 13–14.
- Sides: On each side panel, sew one flower over st 11 at Round 17, with one leaf just below it.
Each basket gets 2 strawberries, 2 caps, 3 flowers and 4 leaves.
Make All Pieces
Totals by color:
- Cream: 3 bases and walls (Rounds 1–9 and 12–21)
- Red: 3 base edges, 3 rims, 6 strawberries, 2 straps
- Green: 6 leaf caps, 12 leaves, 3 vines
- White and yellow: 9 flowers, plus seeds on 6 berries
Layout grid (front view):
[ wooden ring ]
[ strap tail 3 in ]
[ Basket 3 – top ]
|| gap 1.5 in ||
[ Basket 2 – middle ]
|| gap 1.5 in ||
[ Basket 1 – bottom ]
Joining
Straps (Make 2, Red)
Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch. (2 sts)
Rows 2–74: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (2 sts)
At 4 rows per inch, 74 rows = 18.5 in (47.0 cm). Each strap is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. Fasten off and leave a long tail.
Row-to-Round Map
Each strap row lines up with one wall round on the back of a basket.
- Rows 1–14: Basket 1, Rounds 11–24
- Rows 15–20: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Rows 21–34: Basket 2, Rounds 11–24
- Rows 35–40: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Rows 41–54: Basket 3, Rounds 11–24
- Rows 55–66: tail, 3 in (7.6 cm)
- Rows 67–74: fold at the ring, 2 in (5.1 cm)
Method
- On the back of each basket, place one strap over sts 5–6 and the other over sts 16–17. That leaves 4 free sts at each corner and 9 sts, or 2.25 in (5.7 cm), between the straps.
- Whip stitch both long edges of each strap to the wall, one strap row to one wall round, so each row’s edge sc meets the matching wall st.
- Pin all three baskets in place first and check that the gaps are even.
- Above the top basket, angle the two tails toward each other so that their Row 66s sit side by side, 1 in (2.5 cm) wide in total.
- Pass both straps through the ring, fold Rows 67–74 down behind Rows 59–66, and sew through all layers.
Tension: Keep the sewing stitches snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the back wall puckers and the basket tips forward.
Size checkpoint: The bottom of Basket 1 to the ring fold should measure 16.5 in (41.9 cm): 3 baskets x 3.5 in, plus 2 gaps x 1.5 in, plus the 3 in tail.
Border (Rim)
Work the rim on every basket before joining.
Border gauge: Same as the body: 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm) and 4 rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Round 22 (Red): Join red, ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80 sts; 21 per side)
Round 23: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (80 sts; 21 per side)
Round 24: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. (80 sts; 21 per side) Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: The rim has no increases, so each side keeps the 21 sts set in Round 10, with corners shared, and the rim stays straight. Three rounds at 4 rounds per inch add 0.75 in (1.9 cm). Added to the 2.75 in (7.0 cm) wall, that gives 3.5 in (8.9 cm), which matches the 14 strap rows for each basket.
Final Blocking
- Spritz each basket with water until it is damp but not soaked.
- Put a roll or a 5 in (12.7 cm) box inside to square up the walls.
- Press the base flat and push the corners out with your fingers.
- Pin down any appliqué edges that lift.
- Let everything air-dry completely, without heat.
- Hang the holder and let the straps settle overnight.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) per side with 80 sts
- Each wall is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall and does not lean
- The red lines at Rounds 10–11 and at the rim are unbroken
- Every strawberry points down and has seeds
- The straps sit on sts 5–6 and 16–17 of every back panel
- Each gap measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- The ring fold is sewn through all layers
- All ends are hidden
Troubleshooting
- Base cups or ruffles: Check that the 3 sc went into the corner st itself, then adjust your tension.
- Corners drift: Move the markers up every round.
- Walls flare out: You added stitches by mistake. Count each wall round to confirm 80.
- Jumbo rolls don’t fit: Add one more base round (88 sts, 23 per side) and put the straps on sts 6–7 and 17–18.
- Baskets tilt forward: Sew the strap edges along their full length, not just at the ends.
- Visible joins: Place the joining sl sts at the back.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll in a towel to remove water, and lay flat to dry. Reshape around a roll while damp.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. A gauge of 16 sc to 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 21-st side of 5.25 in (13.3 cm). Fourteen wall rounds give 3.5 in (8.9 cm). Seventy-four strap rows give 18.5 in (47.0 cm), enough for three baskets, two gaps, the tail and the ring fold. If your first base matches its checkpoint, every later part will line up.
Happy crocheting!