Three dusty pink crocheted cat keychains displayed on light wood, one featuring a wooden ring.

Rosy Lotus Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

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This hanging holder stacks three round lotus baskets on a slim crocheted frame, so spare toilet rolls stay off the floor. Each basket has a soft blush-pink body with three raised leaves on the front. Above the leaves are zigzag bands that end in a pointed dusty rose rim, like an opening flower.

The palette is just two colors: light blush pink (A) and dusty rose (B). Firm cotton keeps the baskets round, even with a roll inside, and a wooden ring at the top hangs on any hook or knob.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide and 21 in (53.3 cm) long, from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.

You work each basket in joined rounds: a flat circle base, then straight single-crochet sides, then a double-crochet ripple band. You make the leaves separately and sew them on. Then you sew two edged straps down the backs of the baskets and wrap a short tab around the ring.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 21 in (53.3 cm) long, ring included
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: worsted / #4 cotton
  • Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
  • Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 9 leaves, 2 straps, 1 hanging tab, plus 1 wooden ring
  • Layout: 3 baskets in 1 vertical column, with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps between them
  • Basket size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across the base, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) side height
  • Strap size before border: 16.5 in x 0.7 in (41.9 cm x 1.8 cm)
  • Border depth: 1 round of sc, about 0.2 in (0.5 cm) on every edge of each strap

Materials

Choose a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape, gives crisp ripple points, and handles a damp bathroom well. Avoid fuzzy or stretchy yarns, because they let the baskets sag.

  • Color A, light blush pink: 100 g, about 170 m (186 yd). Used for the basket bases and bodies, the middle ripple band, and the leaves.
  • Color B, dusty rose: 75 g, about 128 m (140 yd). Used for the ripple bands, rims, straps and tab.

These quantities include a margin of about 30% for your gauge basket and seaming.

Tools:

  • 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
  • Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
  • Tapestry needle
  • 6 stitch markers
  • Rust-proof pins
  • Scissors and tape measure

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sp(s) – space(s)
  • rnd – round

dc3tog (double crochet 3 together): [Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops] 3 times. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook. This turns 3 sts into 1 and forms each valley of the ripple.

sc3tog (single crochet 3 together): [Insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop] 3 times. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops. This turns 3 sts into 1.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each dc ripple round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.

Make one full basket first. It is your gauge swatch, and every later measurement depends on it.

Checkpoints:

  1. After Rnd 10, the flat base measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
  2. After Rnd 18, the sc sides are 1.8 in (4.6 cm) tall above the base edge.
  3. After Rnd 24, the sides are 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall at the peaks.

If the base is too big, switch to a 4 mm hook. If it is too small, switch to a 5 mm hook. If the base is right but the sides are short, pull up the first loop of each dc a little taller.

Crocheted horns in dusty mauve and cream tones with detailed stitch texture on a soft-colored amigurumi toy.

Basket (make 3)

Work in joined rounds. The ch 1 or ch 2 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first st, and do not turn.

Base

With A:

Rnd 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, join. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc 1, inc] 6 times, join. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc 2, inc] 6 times, join. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, [sc 3, inc] 6 times, join. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, [sc 4, inc] 6 times, join. (36 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, [sc 5, inc] 6 times, join. (42 sts)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, [sc 6, inc] 6 times, join. (48 sts)

Rnd 9: Ch 1, [sc 7, inc] 6 times, join. (54 sts)

Rnd 10: Ch 1, [sc 8, inc] 6 times, join. (60 sts)

Checkpoint: 60 sts at 4 sts per inch gives a 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference, about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.

Body

Work through both loops, not the back loop only. This lets the base curve gently into a rounded bottom.

Rnds 11–18: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sts each round)

Fasten off A.

Ripple Band

There are 6 repeats of 10 sts. Each repeat uses 10 sts and makes 10 sts: one peak (the 3-dc group) and one valley (the dc3tog).

Rnd 19: Join B in any st. Ch 2, [3 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, dc in next 3 sts] 6 times, join to first dc. (60 sts)

Rnd 20: Sl st in next st (the center dc of the first peak). Ch 2, [3 dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, dc in next 3 sts] 6 times, join to first dc. (60 sts) Fasten off B.

Always start a ripple round in the center dc of a peak. That way peaks stack on peaks and valleys stack on valleys.

Rnd 21: Join A in the center dc of any peak. Ch 2, [3 dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, dc3tog over next 3 sts, dc in next 3 sts] 6 times, join. (60 sts)

Rnd 22: Sl st in next st, then work as Rnd 21. (60 sts) Fasten off A.

Rnd 23: Join B in the center dc of any peak and work as Rnd 21. (60 sts)

Rim

Rnd 24 (trim round): Sl st in next st (peak center). Ch 1, [(sc, ch 1, sc) in same st, sc in next 3 sts, sc3tog over next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts] 6 times, join.

Count: 60 sts worked into, plus 6 sc added at the peaks, minus 12 sts removed at the valleys = 54 sc + 6 ch-1 sps. That is 9 sc and 1 point per repeat.

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Leaves (make 9)

With A, ch 8.

Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate to work along the other side of the chain: sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, ch 2, sl st in first sc. (15 sts + ch-2 tip)

Vein: With a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail, work surface sl sts up the center of the leaf from base to tip.

Each leaf is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long and 0.9 in (2.3 cm) wide.

Straps and Tab

Strap (make 2)

With B, ch 67.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (66 sts)

Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (66 sts)

Don’t fasten off. Go straight on to the Border section. Before the border, the strap measures 16.5 in x 0.7 in (41.9 cm x 1.8 cm).

Hanging Tab (make 1)

With B, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (6 sts)

Rows 2–20: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. The tab measures 1.5 in x 4.5 in (3.8 cm x 11.4 cm).

Make All Pieces

  • Color A: 3 basket bases and bodies (Rnds 1–18), Rnds 21–22 of each basket, and 9 leaves
  • Color B: Rnds 19–20 and 23–24 of each basket, 2 straps and 1 tab

Layout (back view):

          [ ring ]
           [tab]
 |strap|  BASKET 1  |strap|   strap sts 1-18
 |strap|    gap     |strap|   strap sts 19-24
 |strap|  BASKET 2  |strap|   strap sts 25-42
 |strap|    gap     |strap|   strap sts 43-48
 |strap|  BASKET 3  |strap|   strap sts 49-66

Check: 18 + 6 + 18 + 6 + 18 = 66 sts, which is 4.5 + 1.5 + 4.5 + 1.5 + 4.5 = 16.5 in (41.9 cm).

Sew on the leaves. Mark the front center st on Rnd 12. Sew the center leaf upright with its base at the marker. Sew one leaf on each side, with its base touching the center leaf’s base, angled 45 degrees outward. The leaf tips should touch the first dusty rose band. Sew around each leaf’s full edge with A, leaving the vein raised.

Joining

Work the border on both straps before you join them, because you sew through the border stitches.

Method: Whipstitch with B, through the outer loops of each strap’s long-side border sts and through the basket fabric.

Placement: On each basket, find the back center, directly opposite the center leaf. On Rnd 11, place a marker 6 sts to each side of it. The strap centers go at these markers, 3 in (7.6 cm) apart.

Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each basket’s 4.5 in (11.4 cm) side matches 18 strap sts:

  • 1 strap st along Rnd 24
  • 2 strap sts per dc round across Rnds 23–19 (10 sts)
  • 7 strap sts across Rnds 18–11

Sew strap sts 1–18 to Basket 1 and leave sts 19–24 free for the gap. Sew sts 25–42 to Basket 2 and sts 49–66 to Basket 3.

Tension: Sew snugly but don’t pull. The strap should lie flat without puckering the basket.

Tab: Center the tab between the straps on the back of Basket 1, and sew Rows 1–4 to the basket. Pass Rows 12–20 through the ring, fold them to the back, and sew Row 20 across Row 12.

Size checkpoint: With the holder hanging empty, the gaps measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm). The total length without the ring is about 18.5 in (47.0 cm).

Border

Work one round of sc in B around each strap, at body gauge: 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm).

Border Rnd 1: At the end of Row 3, ch 1 (corner). Work 3 sc down the short end (1 per row end), then ch 1 (corner). Sc in each of the 66 foundation chs, ch 1. Work 3 sc up the other short end, ch 1. Sc in each of the 66 sts of Row 3, then join to the first sc. Fasten off.

Counts: 66 sc on each long side, 3 sc on each short end, and 4 corner ch-1 sps, which are counted separately from the sides. Total: 138 sc + 4 ch-1 sps.

Why the math works: On the long sides, there is one sc per stitch, so each strap stays at 66 sts and 16.5 in (41.9 cm), and the 18 + 6 + 18 + 6 + 18 layout still holds. On the short ends, the 3 row ends measure about 0.7 in (1.8 cm). Three sc at 0.25 in (0.6 cm) each match that. The ch-1 corners turn without flaring. The finished strap measures about 16.9 in x 1.1 in (42.9 cm x 2.8 cm).

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all remaining ends.
  2. Mist the baskets until damp, not soaked.
  3. Put a toilet roll in each basket to set the round shape.
  4. Pinch each rim peak to a sharp point.
  5. Lay the frame flat with the straps parallel and their centers 3 in (7.6 cm) apart.
  6. Let it dry fully, at least 12 hours.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Every round from Rnd 10 through Rnd 23 has 60 sts
  • Each rim has 6 even points (54 sc + 6 ch-1 sps)
  • Peaks sit on peaks through all 5 ripple rounds
  • Each basket has 3 leaves with raised veins
  • The straps are 66 sts long, edged, and 3 in (7.6 cm) apart
  • The gaps measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and the ring hangs centered

Troubleshooting

The ripple twists into a spiral: You started a round off-center. Always sl st into the center dc of a peak first.

The count drifts from 60: Check that each dc3tog uses exactly 3 sts and that each peak has 3 dc.

The basket flares open: Go down 0.5 mm for Rnds 19–23.

A basket tilts forward: Add a firm tack at Rnd 11 on both straps.

The leaves curl: Block them flat before sewing, and sew around the full edge.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water in a towel, then dry flat with a roll in each basket.

Dusty pink crocheted toilet paper holder with three scalloped pockets hanging on bathroom subway tile wall.

Final Notes

The measurement chain: a gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 60-st base 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across. Nine sc rounds plus five dc rounds give a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) side, which matches 18 strap stitches. Three baskets plus two 6-st gaps make the 66-st, 16.5 in (41.9 cm) strap, which measures 16.9 in (42.9 cm) after the border. If each link checks out, the holder hangs straight.

Happy crocheting!

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