The Lagoon Fan Two-Tier Hanging Basket is a wall organizer made of two round baskets stacked one above the other. Each basket has a solid base and a low solid band, then a lace band of open fans under a light net of chain arches. A firm braided rim finishes the top.
The sample uses one deep teal bulky cotton, so the lace reads clearly against a pale wall. Natural wood dowels act as toggles at the sides. They hold the cords in place and give the piece a light Scandinavian look. The organizer suits a bathroom, a nursery, or an entryway.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures 9 in (22.9 cm) across and 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall. Hung up, the whole organizer is about 21 in (53.3 cm) long and 11 in (27.9 cm) wide, including the dowels.
You’ll crochet a flat circular base, turn up the wall with a back-loop round, work the fan lace, and finish with a rim border that includes two hanging tabs. Next you make three slip-stitch cords and push dowels through the tabs and cord loops to assemble the organizer.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (each basket): 9 in (22.9 cm) diameter × 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall
- Assembled organizer: about 21 in (53.3 cm) long × 11 in (27.9 cm) wide
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (5) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 crocheted pieces (2 baskets, 1 top strap, 2 drop cords) plus 4 wooden dowels
- Layout: 1 column × 2 tiers, hung vertically
- Basket size before border: 9 in (22.9 cm) diameter × 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall
- Border (rim) depth: 1 in (2.5 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Use a firm bulky cotton or cotton-blend cord. Soft acrylic will sag under the weight of bottles. A tightly plied cotton gives the clean, rope-like stitch definition you see in the sample.
- Teal: 260 g, about 260 m (284.3 yd) in total
- Each basket: about 110 g / 110 m (120.3 yd)
- All cords: about 15 g / 15 m (16.4 yd)
These quantities include a margin of about 10%, enough for one gauge swatch.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 4 wooden dowels, each 0.75 in (1.9 cm) diameter × 2.5 in (6.4 cm) long
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers (at least 3)
– Scissors and a tape measure
– 1 wall hook rated for at least 6 lb (2.7 kg)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- MR: magic ring
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO: back loop only
- sk: skip
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rep: repeat
Special stitch: Fan base. In one stitch, work (dc, [ch 1, dc] 4 times). This gives 5 dc spokes and 4 ch-1 spaces, all coming from a single point.
Slip-stitch cord: Chain the stated number. Then sl st into the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and each ch across. This makes a firm, braided-looking cord.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc and 12 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. Three dc-based lace rounds measure about 2.25 in (5.7 cm). Slip-stitch cord: 3 sl st = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one complete basket before starting the second. Use these checkpoints:
- After Rnd 6 (36 sts): base diameter is 4 in (10.2 cm), circumference about 12 in (30.5 cm).
- After Rnd 10 (60 sts): base diameter is 6.5 in (16.5 cm).
- After Rnd 14 (84 sts): base diameter is 9 in (22.9 cm), circumference about 28 in (71.1 cm).
- After Rnd 20: solid wall is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 25: basket is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 29: basket is 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall.
If the base is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. If the base ruffles, your rounds are too short for your stitch width, so try a smaller hook. If it cups, use a larger one. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the lace depends on exactly 84 stitches.
Basket Pattern (Make 2)
Work in joined rounds with the right side always facing. The ch 1 at the start of each sc round does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first st. The join line will sit at the back center of the basket.
Base
Rnd 1: In a MR, ch 1, 6 sc. Join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc; rep from * 6 times total. Join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc; rep 6 times. Join. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc; rep 6 times. Join. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc; rep 6 times. Join. (36 sts)
Rnds 7–14: Keep adding 6 sts per round. Work 1 more sc between increases each round. To keep the circle round instead of hexagonal, place the increases at a different point in each repeat on alternate rounds.
- Rnd 7: 42 sts
- Rnd 8: 48 sts
- Rnd 9: 54 sts
- Rnd 10: 60 sts
- Rnd 11: 66 sts
- Rnd 12: 72 sts
- Rnd 13: 78 sts
- Rnd 14: sc in next 12 sts, inc; rep 6 times. (84 sts)
Check the base diameter now: it should be 9 in (22.9 cm).
Solid Wall
Rnd 15 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (84 sts) The unused front loops make a crisp edge where the base meets the wall.
Rnds 16–20: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (84 sts each round)
Checkpoint: the wall is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall, measured from the turning ridge.
Fan Lace Band
84 stitches divide into 7 repeats of 12 stitches, so you’ll get 7 fans.
Rnd 21: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). In the same st work [dc, ch 1] 3 times, then dc (first fan base made). Then ch 3, sk 5 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 5 sts. Work a fan base in next st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 5 sts; rep from * 5 more times. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4.
Each repeat uses 1 + 5 + 1 + 5 = 12 sts. Count: 7 fans (35 dc, 28 ch-1 sps), 7 sc, 14 ch-3 sps.
Rnd 22: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). [Dc in next dc, ch 2] 3 times, dc in next dc. Ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2. [Dc in next dc, ch 2] 4 times, dc in next dc, ch 2, sc in next sc, ch 2; rep from * 5 more times. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5.
Count: 35 dc, 28 ch-2 sps inside the fans, 7 sc, 14 ch-2 sps between the fans.
Rnd 23: Ch 6 (counts as dc + ch 3). [Dc in next dc, ch 3] 3 times, dc in next dc. Ch 1, then skip the ch-2, sc, and ch-2 between the fans. [Dc in next dc, ch 3] 4 times, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk to next fan; rep from * 5 more times. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-6.
Count: 35 dc, 28 ch-3 sps, 7 ch-1 sps. The fans now touch at the top, and each one opens upward from its single base stitch.
Rnd 24 (net): Sl st into the first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp, ch 4. Work [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 4] 3 times, then sc in the ch-1 sp, ch 4. [Sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 4] 4 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 4; rep from * 5 more times. Join.
Count: 35 sc, 35 ch-4 loops (5 per repeat).
Rnd 25 (net): Sl st into the first ch-4 loop, ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 4. Sc in next loop, ch 4; rep from * around. Join. (35 sc, 35 ch-4 loops)
Checkpoint: the basket is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall. The top edge should sit straight, without flaring or pulling in.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 2 in teal, worked through Rnd 29 (including the Rim Border below)
- Top strap: 1 in teal. Ch 67 and work a slip-stitch cord: 66 sl st, 22 in (55.9 cm) long.
- Drop cords: 2 in teal. For each, ch 31 and work a slip-stitch cord: 30 sl st, 10 in (25.4 cm) long.
- Dowels: 4, unfinished or sealed wood
On each cord end, fold back 1.5 in (3.8 cm) and sew it down to make a loop. Leave the cord ends as tails for this.
Layout grid (front view):
[ wall hook ]
/ \
top strap top strap
/ \
[dowel]=[ UPPER BASKET ]=[dowel]
| |
drop cord drop cord
| |
[dowel]=[ LOWER BASKET ]=[dowel]
Joining (Assembly)
Finish the Rim Border (next section) on both baskets first, because the hanging tabs are made in Rnd 28. Then assemble as follows:
- Lower basket: Push a dowel through one rim tab. Slide the bottom loop of one drop cord onto the same dowel, next to the tab and toward the back. Repeat on the other side.
- Upper basket: Push a dowel through one rim tab. Add the top loop of the matching drop cord, then one end loop of the top strap. Keep both cord loops on the outer half of the dowel so the toggle stays balanced. Repeat on the other side.
- Hanging loop: Fold the top strap in half. Wrap a yarn tail 6 times around both strands 1.5 in (3.8 cm) below the fold, then sew it through to secure. This leaves a 3 in (7.6 cm) loop for the hook.
The logic is the same everywhere: each dowel carries 1 tab plus 1 or 2 cord loops. Because the tabs are exactly opposite each other (42 sts apart), each basket hangs level.
Keep the loops snug around the dowels. If a loop is loose, the dowel can slide out under load. If it’s too tight, the dowel won’t go through.
Checkpoint: When hung, the gap between the bottom of the upper basket and the rim of the lower basket is 1.5 in (3.8 cm). If the gap is larger, re-sew the drop-cord loops 0.5 in (1.3 cm) deeper.
Rim Border
Border gauge: 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the base. The rim must return to exactly 84 sts so it matches the 28 in (71.1 cm) circumference of the wall.
Rnd 26 (conversion round): Sl st into the first ch-4 loop, ch 1. 3 sc in next loop, 2 sc in next loop, 3 sc in next loop, 2 sc in next loop, 2 sc in next loop; rep from * 7 times total. Join.
Count: (2 sc in each of 35 loops = 70) + (1 extra sc in 2 loops per repeat × 7 = 14) = 84 sts.
Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (84 sts: 42 across the front half, 42 across the back half)
Rnd 28 (tab round): Ch 1, sc in first 21 sts, ch 8, sc in next 42 sts, ch 8, sc in last 21 sts. Join.
Count: 84 sc + 2 ch-8 tabs. Front arc: 42 sc between the tabs. Back arc: 21 + 21 = 42 sc, centered on the join.
Rnd 29 (braided edge): Sl st in the BLO of each sc. At each tab, work 12 sc into the ch-8 space, then continue with sl sts. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Count: 84 sl st (42 front, 42 back) + 12 sc on each tab (24 total).
Why the math works: 84 = 7 × 12, so the fan repeats divide evenly. Rnd 26 brings the 35 net loops back to the original 84 sts, so the rim neither flares nor pulls in. Splitting 84 into 42 + 42 puts the tabs directly opposite each other. Each finished tab opening is about 1 in (2.5 cm), which fits the 0.75 in (1.9 cm) dowel.
Final Blocking
- Spray each basket evenly until it’s damp, but not soaked.
- Stuff it firmly with a towel so it takes on a cylinder shape 9 in (22.9 cm) across.
- Use your fingers to open each fan, so the spokes fan out evenly and the net loops sit level.
- Press the base flat on a table and roll the turning ridge with your thumb to sharpen it.
- Lay the cords out straight and pin them at their final lengths, 22 in (55.9 cm) and 10 in (25.4 cm).
- Let everything dry completely, usually 24 hours, before assembling.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base lies flat and measures 9 in (22.9 cm).
- Both baskets are 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall.
- Each basket has 7 fans, evenly spaced and all opening upward.
- Rnd 26 has exactly 84 sts.
- The tabs are 42 sts apart, and all four are the same size.
- All cord loops are sewn securely, with ends woven in at least 2 in (5.1 cm).
- The baskets hang level, with a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap between them.
Troubleshooting
- The base ruffles: Your hook is too large or your sc is loose. Rework with a smaller hook.
- The base cups: Use a larger hook, or check that you made 6 increases in every round.
- The fans lean sideways: You skipped the wrong number of sts in Rnd 21. Count 5 sts on each side of the sc.
- The net flares: Change ch 4 to ch 3 in Rnds 24–25. Rnd 26 still works into 35 loops.
- The basket tilts when hung: The tabs aren’t opposite each other. Recount 42 sts between them.
- A dowel slips out: Tighten the cord loop, or add a wrap of yarn at the base of the loop.
Care
Hand-wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat over a stuffed form. Wipe the dowels with a damp cloth only.
Final Notes
The sizes all follow from one gauge: 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). That gives an 84-st base 9 in (22.9 cm) across, a 2 in (5.1 cm) solid wall, and a lace band that brings the basket to 5.25 in (13.3 cm). The rim border adds 1 in (2.5 cm) for a finished height of 6.25 in (15.9 cm). Stacked with the cords and strap, the two baskets hang about 21 in (53.3 cm) long. Check each stage against these numbers and both baskets will match.
Happy crocheting!