The Lagoon Bloom is a single six-petal flower motif worked in one deep teal yarn. It has a small open center, a solid ring of double crochet, and six rounded petals built from fans of tall stitches. A raised single crochet outline traces every petal and gives the flower its plump, well-defined edge.
The style is simple and slightly vintage, and it works best in cotton yarn with good stitch definition. You can use the flower as a coaster, an appliqué, a bag charm, a gift-tag topper, or a quick way to practice tall-stitch fans. This pattern covers one finished flower only.
All instructions use US crochet terms. The finished motif measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across, from one petal tip to the opposite petal tip.
You work the flower in the round, in four rounds, without turning. It starts with a chain ring and a round of double crochet. Next comes a round of chain loops that sets up the six petals, and Round 3 fills each loop with a tall-stitch fan. Round 4 is the border: a single crochet outline that rounds off each petal tip.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tip to tip
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (weight 4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: One flower motif, no joining
- Piece size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across after blocking
- Size before border: 4 in (10.2 cm) across after Round 3
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each side, one round
Materials
Yarn advice: Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the petal shape well and shows the outline round clearly. Acrylic also works, but the petals will be softer and may curl more before blocking. Avoid fuzzy or very textured yarn, because the tall-stitch fans lose their definition.
Color:
- Teal (main and only color): 10 g, about 20 m (22 yd)
This amount includes a margin of about 25 percent to cover the test piece, the yarn tails, and any ripping out. At the stated gauge, one motif uses about 8 g (16 m / 17.5 yd).
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker (optional)
- Rust-proof pins and a foam blocking mat
- Spray bottle with clean water
- Ruler or tape measure
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
- ( ) – work everything inside the parentheses into the same stitch or space
Special stitch – Petal Fan: Work (sc, hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc) all into the same ch-5 loop, for 11 stitches per fan. The tall stitches in the middle form the rounded petal tip, and the shorter stitches on each side taper the petal back toward its base.
Gauge and Checkpoints
The rounds themselves set the gauge for this motif, so there is no flat swatch. Make one motif as your test piece and measure it at each checkpoint below. Measure on a flat surface without stretching the work.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 1: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across, with a center hole about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
- After Round 2: 2 in (5.1 cm) across, measured over the ch-5 loops laid flat.
- After Round 3: 4 in (10.2 cm) tip to tip.
- After Round 4: 4.25 in (10.8 cm) unblocked, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) after blocking.
If your motif is too big: If Round 1 measures more than 1.75 in (4.4 cm), switch to a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook. Oversized petals usually come from loose treble crochet, so pull each tr snug before you start the next one.
If your motif is too small: If Round 1 measures less than 1.25 in (3.2 cm), switch to a 5.5 mm (US I-9) hook. Small petals with edges that cup upward usually mean the fans are worked too tightly into their loops.
A difference of up to 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at Round 3 is fine, because blocking will even it out. If you are off by more than that, change your hook and start again. Every later round depends on Round 1.
Pattern
Before You Begin
Each round is joined with a sl st, and you do not turn the work. Keep the right side facing you throughout. Leave a beginning tail of about 6 in (15.2 cm) so you can adjust the center hole later.
A stitch marker in the first stitch of each round makes counting easier, especially in Round 3, where the fans are close together. Count after every round. A single missed stitch changes the shape of a petal.
Round 1 – Center Ring
Ch 5 and sl st into the first ch to form a ring.
Ch 3 (counts as the first dc). Work 17 dc into the ring. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 to join.
Stitch count: 18 dc.
Spread the stitches evenly around the ring. Pull the beginning tail gently to firm up the ring, but keep the center open. The finished hole should be about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across.
Round 2 – Petal Loops
Ch 1. Sc in the same st as the join. Ch 5, sk the next 2 dc. Sc in the next dc, ch 5, sk the next 2 dc. Rep from * 4 more times. Sl st to the first sc to join.
Stitch count: 6 sc and 6 ch-5 loops.
Check the spacing: the 18 dc split into 6 repeats of 3 dc (1 worked into, 2 skipped), so every stitch of Round 1 is used exactly once. Each sc becomes the anchor point between two petals.
Round 3 – Petals
Sl st into the first ch-5 loop. Work a Petal Fan into this loop: (sc, hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc). Work a Petal Fan into the next ch-5 loop. Rep from * 4 more times. Sl st to the first sc of the round to join.
Stitch count: 66 sts (6 petals of 11 sts each).
Each petal has 2 sc, 2 hdc, 4 dc, and 3 tr. The last sc of one petal and the first sc of the next sit side by side over the Round 2 sc, which creates the small valley between the petals.
For each tr, yarn over twice, insert the hook into the loop, and draw up a loop to the height of the dc beside it. Then complete the stitch. Keeping the tr at a steady height makes the three tip stitches line up into a smooth curve.
As you go, push the stitches together along the loop so the fan stays even. The petals should lie flat and touch at their bases. The flower should measure 4 in (10.2 cm) from tip to tip.
Border – Round 4 (Petal Outline)
The border is a single round that outlines each petal. It firms up the edge, rounds off the tips, and gives the flower its raised, defined rim.
Border gauge: About 4 sc to 0.75 in (1.9 cm) along the outer curve of a petal.
Round 4: Ch 1. Sl st in the first sc of the petal. Sc in the hdc, sc in each of the next 2 dc. Work 2 sc in each of the next 3 tr. Sc in each of the next 2 dc, sc in the hdc. Sl st in the last sc of the petal. Rep from * 5 more times. Join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Count per petal: 9 sts worked 1-per-stitch (hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc), plus 3 extra sc at the tip, gives 12 sc. Add the 2 sl sts at the petal bases for a total of 14 sts per petal.
Round total: 66 existing sts worked 1-per-stitch + 18 extra sc at the petal tips = 84 sts (72 sc and 12 sl sts).
Why the math works: The outer edge of each petal is longer than the stitches underneath it. The tip is the widest part of the curve, so that is where the extra length is needed. Working 2 sc into each of the 3 tip tr adds 3 stitches per petal. That lets the edge curve around the tip without pulling it flat or making it ruffle. The sides of each petal follow a gentler line, so they only need 1 sc per stitch.
The sl sts at each petal base are kept low on purpose. They pull the outline down into the valley between the petals and keep all six petals separate. If you used sc there instead, the valleys would fill in and the petals would blur together.
The border adds about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each side. That takes the motif from 4 in (10.2 cm) to 4.5 in (11.4 cm) once it is blocked.
Finishing tails: Weave the final tail along the back of the Round 4 stitches, following one petal edge. Weave the beginning tail through the back of Round 1, going around the center so the hole stays round.
Final Blocking
- Soak or spray. Mist the motif with water until it is evenly damp. You can also soak it for 5 minutes, then press out the water gently in a towel. Do not wring it.
- Lay it face up on the blocking mat.
- Pin the center. Put a pin through the center hole to anchor the flower.
- Pin the petal tips. Pin each petal at its tip so the motif measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) from one tip to the opposite tip. Check all three pairs of opposite tips.
- Shape the petals. Round each petal with your fingers. Each one should be about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide at its widest point.
- Open the valleys. Press gently at each sl st between petals so every dip is clear and the same depth.
- Check the center. The hole should be round and about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across.
- Let it dry fully before you unpin it. This usually takes 6 to 12 hours.
You can also steam block cotton. Hold the iron 1 in (2.5 cm) above the pinned motif and never press it onto the stitches.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The motif measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tip to tip in all three directions.
- There are exactly 6 petals, all the same size and shape.
- Round 1 has 18 dc and an open center about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
- Round 3 has 66 sts, with 11 per petal.
- Round 4 has 84 sts, with 14 per petal (12 sc and 2 sl sts).
- Each petal tip is smoothly rounded, with no points or ruffles.
- The valleys between the petals are clear and even.
- The motif lies flat without cupping or waving.
- All tails are woven in securely and do not show on the front.
Troubleshooting
The petals cup upward. The fans are too tight. Redo Round 3 with looser tr, or go up one hook size.
The petals ruffle. Either the fan has too many stitches or the tr are too loose. Recount the fan (11 sts) and work the tall stitches a little tighter.
The center hole closed up. The beginning tail was pulled too hard. Loosen it and reweave it around the ring without tension.
The center hole is too big. Pull the tail snug before weaving it in, or start with a ch-4 ring instead of a ch-5 ring.
One petal is bigger than the others. Check that you skipped exactly 2 dc between each sc in Round 2. Uneven loop spacing gives uneven petals.
The outline looks lumpy at the tips. Work exactly 2 sc into each of the 3 tr, and not into the dc beside them.
The petals blend together at the base. Use a sl st, not a sc, at each petal base in Round 4.
The join seam is visible. Join into the top of the ch-3 or the first sc, not into the chain beside it, so the seam lines up with the rest of the round.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent and lay flat to dry, reshaping the petals while damp. Cotton motifs can be lightly steamed to refresh their shape.
Final Notes
A short measurement chain controls the size of the Lagoon Bloom:
- Round 1 sets a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) center with 18 dc.
- Round 2 divides that into 6 even loops and measures 2 in (5.1 cm).
- Round 3 builds 66 petal stitches and reaches 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Round 4 adds 18 tip stitches for 84 sts in total.
- Blocking brings the flower to 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
If each checkpoint matches, the finished flower will match too. Work your first motif slowly, count every round, and enjoy watching the petals open up.
Happy crocheting!