The Crimson Blossom Heart is a lacy heart motif with an eight-petal flower in the middle. Long stitches form the petals, chain arches loop between their tips, and fans of tall stitches fill the two top lobes and the bottom point. A firm, twisted edge holds it all together.
The sample uses a single deep cranberry red, which shows off the stitch texture and suits Valentine’s Day, weddings, or year-round décor. You can use it as a coaster, a card topper, a gift-box tag, or an appliqué on a bag or cushion.
This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout. The finished heart measures about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall after blocking.
You’ll work it in the round from the center out. First you make a single-crochet ring, then the petals and arches, then one shaping round that turns the flower into a heart, and last a two-round border. It’s one piece with no sewing, and only two ends to weave in.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide × 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate (tall stitches, clusters, reverse single crochet)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK / light (#3) cotton
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 1 single motif
- Layout: One heart, worked in the round from the center
- Piece size before border: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide × 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), 2 rounds
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth, mercerized or combed DK cotton or cotton blend. Cotton shows the long petal stitches clearly and holds a crisp shape after blocking. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the petals and fans will lose their definition.
- Cranberry red: 18 g, about 40 m (44 yd)
That amount includes a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch and any ripping back. The heart itself uses about 14 g.
Tools:
- 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Rustproof pins and a blocking mat or folded towel
- Spray bottle with water
- Ruler or tape measure
- 1 stitch marker
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet (yo twice)
- dtr – double treble crochet (yo 3 times)
- trtr – triple treble crochet (yo 4 times)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- yo – yarn over
Special stitches
- trtr (triple treble): Yo 4 times, insert hook in st, yo and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook), [yo, pull through 2 loops] 5 times.
- Beginning petal (beg petal): Ch 5 (this counts as the first leg). *Yo 4 times, insert hook in the same st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 4 times (1 loop of this leg stays on the hook). Repeat from * 4 more times (6 loops on hook). Yo and pull through all 6 loops.
- Petal (6-trtr cluster): *Yo 4 times, insert hook in the st, yo and pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 4 times. Repeat from * 5 more times, all in the same st (7 loops on hook). Yo and pull through all 7 loops.
- rev sc: Working from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed), insert hook in the next st to the right, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 20 sc and 22 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in a flat sc swatch.
Gauge matters less than in a garment, but it controls whether the border lies flat. Before you make your final heart, work Rounds 1–2 as a test and measure them.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 1: The ring is 1 in (2.5 cm) across, and the center hole is about 0.4 in (1.0 cm).
- After Round 2: Each petal is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long. The flower measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) from tip to opposite tip, or about 4 in (10.2 cm) including the arches.
- After Round 3: The heart is 5 in (12.7 cm) wide × 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall.
- After Round 5: The heart is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide × 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall.
If your piece is too big (more than 0.25 in / 0.6 cm over at any checkpoint), go down to a 3.25 mm or 3 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 3.75 mm or 4 mm hook. If only your petals are too long but everything else matches, shorten each trtr leg by keeping your yarn-overs snug on the hook rather than changing hooks.
Pattern
Center Ring
Ch 8 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 24 sc into the ring, then join with a sl st to the first sc. (24 sc)
Pack the stitches closely so they cover the chain completely. This dense band makes the raised ring around the center hole.
Petals and Arches
Round 2: Work a beg petal in the same st as the join. Ch 9, sk the next 2 sc, then work a petal in the next sc. Repeat from * to * 6 more times. Ch 9, sk the last 2 sc, and join with a sl st to the top of the beg petal. (8 petals, 8 ch-9 arches)
Check the math: each petal uses 1 sc plus 2 skipped sc, and 8 × 3 = 24, which matches Round 1.
The petal legs fan out a little in the middle and gather at the base and tip, which gives each petal its oval shape. The ch-9 arches should bulge outward as soft loops between the petal tips.
Measure now: the tips should sit 3.5 in (8.9 cm) apart across the flower.
Naming the petals: Hold the work with the beg petal pointing straight up. Call it P1, then number the rest clockwise: P2 (upper right), P3 (right), P4 (lower right), P5 (bottom), P6 (lower left), P7 (left), and P8 (upper left). The arch between P1 and P2 is A1, and so on around to A8, which lies between P8 and P1. P1 becomes the dip at the top of the heart, and P5 points toward the bottom tip.
Heart Shaping
You work this round into the petal tips and the arches.
Round 3:
- Top dip: Ch 1, then sc in the top of P1. Place a marker in this sc.
- Right lobe: In the A1 arch, work (hdc, dc, 2 tr, 4 dtr, 2 tr, dc, hdc). (12 sts)
- Sc in the top of P2.
- Right side: Ch 7, sc in the top of P3, ch 7, then sc in the top of P4.
- Bottom point: Ch 5. In the top of P5, work (2 dtr, 2 trtr, ch 3, 2 trtr, 2 dtr). Then ch 5 and sc in the top of P6.
- Left side: Ch 7, sc in the top of P7, ch 7, then sc in the top of P8.
- Left lobe: In the A8 arch, work (hdc, dc, 2 tr, 4 dtr, 2 tr, dc, hdc). (12 sts)
- Join with a sl st to the marked sc.
Stitch count: 7 sc (on P1, P2, P3, P4, P6, P7, P8) + 12 + 12 lobe sts + 8 bottom-fan sts = 39 sts, plus 4 ch-7 sps, 2 ch-5 sps, and 1 ch-3 point sp.
What each part does:
- The graduated fans build the two rounded lobes. They are tallest in the middle of each arch, so the lobes curve smoothly into the dip.
- The bottom fan grows from the tip of P5 and its longest stitches reach down to the point, which gives you the solid wedge at the bottom.
- The ch-7 and ch-5 chains pull the outline straight along the sides. The original arches stay visible inside them as open windows.
Measure now: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide × 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall.
Border
Border gauge: 5 sc per inch (2.54 cm), which matches the swatch gauge of 20 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Round 4: Do not ch 1. Skip the marked sc at P1; leaving it unworked pulls in the top dip. Then work around as follows:
- Right lobe: Sc in each of the 12 lobe sts, then sc in the P2 sc. (13 sc)
- Right side: Work 8 sc in the ch-7 sp, sc in the P3 sc, 8 sc in the next ch-7 sp, then sc in the P4 sc. (18 sc)
- Right lower edge: Work 6 sc in the ch-5 sp, then sc in each of the next 4 fan sts. (10 sc)
- Point: Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the ch-3 sp. (2 sc + ch-2 sp)
- Left lower edge: Sc in each of the next 4 fan sts, then 6 sc in the ch-5 sp. (10 sc)
- Left side: Sc in the P6 sc, 8 sc in the ch-7 sp, sc in the P7 sc, then 8 sc in the next ch-7 sp. (18 sc)
- Left lobe: Sc in the P8 sc, then sc in each of the 12 lobe sts. (13 sc)
Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round, skipping the P1 sc.
Total: 13 + 18 + 10 + 2 + 10 + 18 + 13 = 84 sc, plus 1 ch-2 point sp.
Round 5: Ch 1. Work 1 rev sc in each of the 84 sc, and 2 rev sc in the ch-2 point sp. Join with a sl st to the first rev sc. That’s 84 worked one per stitch, plus 2 added at the point, for 86 rev sc. Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Why the math works:
- Every sc in Round 4 sits on exactly one Round 3 stitch, or fills a chain space at about 1 sc per chain plus 1 for ease. A ch-7 gets 8 sc and a ch-5 gets 6 sc. That small extra keeps the straight chains from pulling tight.
- At 5 sc per inch, 84 sc is 16.8 in (42.7 cm) around. That matches the outline of a 5 in × 4.75 in (12.7 × 12.1 cm) heart plus the border allowance, so the edge neither ruffles nor cups.
- Each side segment of 18 sc measures 3.6 in (9.1 cm). Each lobe segment of 13 sc measures 2.6 in (6.6 cm), and each lower segment of 10 sc measures 2 in (5.1 cm).
- The 2 extra stitches at the point keep the tip sharp, and the skipped P1 sc keeps the dip clearly defined.
Final Blocking
- Weave in both ends along the backs of the stitches, sewing through the border sts so the ends can’t show through the open windows.
- Lay the heart right side up on a blocking mat.
- Pin the bottom point first, then the dip, and check that the line between them runs straight through the center of the ring.
- Pin the top of each lobe so the heart measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across.
- Pin each petal tip so the 8 petals point evenly outward and every arch opens into a smooth loop.
- Ease the sides straight and confirm the height is 5.25 in (13.3 cm).
- Spray until the heart is evenly damp, then pat the petals flat with your fingertips.
- Let it dry completely, which takes 6–12 hours, before unpinning.
- For a crisper finish, such as for a hanging ornament, mist it lightly with fabric stiffener before drying.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] The center hole is open and round, about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) across
- [ ] Round 1 has 24 sc
- [ ] There are 8 petals of even length, about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) each
- [ ] There are 8 ch-9 arches, all open loops
- [ ] Round 3 has 39 sts, with 4 ch-7 sps, 2 ch-5 sps, and 1 ch-3 sp
- [ ] Both lobe fans have 12 sts and match in shape
- [ ] The bottom fan has 8 sts and comes to a sharp point
- [ ] Round 4 has 84 sc, counted as 13 / 18 / 10 / 2 / 10 / 18 / 13
- [ ] Round 5 has 86 rev sc
- [ ] The heart measures 5.5 × 5.25 in (14.0 × 13.3 cm)
- [ ] It lies flat with no ruffling or cupping
- [ ] Both ends are woven in invisibly
Troubleshooting
The petals lean or twist. You’re probably pulling the last loop of each cluster too hard. Close each cluster with a firm but relaxed yo, and push the legs into an even fan before you chain.
The petals are different lengths. Your yarn-overs are loosening on some legs. Keep all 4 wraps snug on the hook shaft before you insert it.
The arches are flat instead of looped. Your chains are too tight. Chain a little looser, or go up half a hook size for the ch-9 only.
The lobes don’t match. Count each fan again; both should have 12 sts in the same order.
The border ruffles. Your gauge is looser than 5 sc per inch. Redo Round 4 with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.
The border cups or puckers. Your gauge is tighter than 5 sc per inch. Use a hook 0.5 mm larger, or work 9 sc in each ch-7 sp, which gives a total of 88 sc in Round 4 and 90 in Round 5.
The point is blunt. Make sure you worked the ch-3 at the center of the bottom fan, and 2 rev sc in the ch-2 sp in Round 5.
The dip is shallow. Check that you skipped the P1 sc in Round 4.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll it in a towel to remove water, and dry it flat, re-pinning to the finished size if needed. Don’t tumble dry, because heat can make cotton shrink and distort the petals.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple:
- Ring: 1 in (2.5 cm)
- Flower: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) at the petal tips
- Heart before the border: 5 in × 4.75 in (12.7 × 12.1 cm)
- Finished heart: 5.5 in × 5.25 in (14.0 × 13.3 cm)
The stitch counts follow the same steps, from 24 to 8 petals, then 39 to 84 to 86. If each checkpoint matches, the finished heart will too.
Once you know the rounds, one heart takes about an hour. Make several for a gift, or stitch one onto a tote as a quick appliqué.
Happy crocheting!