This Sunburst Mandala Window Hanger is a single round motif made to catch the light. A small cream flower sits at the center. Around it are two rounds of mustard yellow bobbles with rust wedges between them. A solid teal band frames the bobbles and a thin cream line follows. Then 24 rust triangles point outward like sun rays, and a cream scalloped edge finishes the circle.
The colors are warm and boho: cream, rust orange, mustard yellow, and teal. A cream chain loop at the top lets you hang it from a curtain rod or hook. A wooden bead and a multicolor tassel hang from the bottom point.
All instructions use US crochet terms. The finished motif measures 7 in (17.8 cm) across. The tassel adds about 7 in (17.8 cm) below the bead.
You work the motif in joined rounds from the center out: flower, bobbles, teal band, cream line, rust points, and cream scallops. Then you add the hanging loop, make the tassel, and attach it with the bead.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 7 in (17.8 cm) diameter, not counting the loop and tassel
- Skill level: Easy intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (3), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 1 motif, plus 1 tassel
- Layout: Single round motif, hung vertically
- Piece size: 7 in (17.8 cm) diameter
- Size before border: 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter after Round 9
- Border depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) on each side (Rounds 10–12)
Materials
Choose a smooth DK cotton, either mercerized or matte. Cotton gives crisp bobbles and sharp points, and it hangs flat without stretching. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they blur the triangles. Any DK cotton with about 115 m per 50 g will match the quantities below.
- Cream: 20 g / 46 m (center, cream line, scallops, loop, tassel)
- Rust orange: 15 g / 35 m (Rounds 2, 4, 6, 10, tassel)
- Mustard yellow: 10 g / 23 m (Rounds 3, 5, tassel)
- Teal: 10 g / 23 m (Rounds 7–8, tassel and tassel wrap)
These quantities include a margin of about 20 percent for gauge differences and tassel trimming.
Tools:
- 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 1 wooden bead, 3/4 in (1.9 cm), with a hole large enough for 2 strands of yarn
- Stiff card, 8 in (20.3 cm) tall, for the tassel
- Stitch marker
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
- Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
Special stitch – Bobble: *Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops; repeat from * 3 more times in the same st (5 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 5 loops. A bobble counts as 1 st.
Beginning bobble: Ch 2, then work the bobble steps 3 times instead of 4 in the same st (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: Rounds 1–3 = 2.25 in (5.7 cm) diameter.
Work Rounds 1–3 first and measure across the center. This small test tells you whether the whole hanger will finish at 7 in (17.8 cm).
Checkpoints:
- After Round 1: 1 in (2.5 cm)
- After Round 3: 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
- After Round 6: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- After Round 9: 5 in (12.7 cm)
- After Round 10: 6.25 in (15.9 cm)
- After Round 12: 7 in (17.8 cm)
If too big: go down to a 3.25 mm (D-3) hook. If too small: go up to a 3.75 mm (F-5) hook.
Also check that the piece lies flat at every checkpoint. If the circle cups, your tension is tight. If it waves, your tension is loose.
Pattern
Join each round with a sl st to the first st unless told otherwise. Fasten off at each color change and join the new color as stated. Move each new join a few stitches over from the last one so the seams don’t stack. Weave in ends as you go.
The Cream Center
Round 1 (cream): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring. Pull the ring closed. Join to top of ch-3. (12 dc) Fasten off.
This forms the small cream flower at the center.
The Bobble Rings
Round 2 (rust): Join rust in any st. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (24 dc) Fasten off.
Round 3 (yellow): Join yellow in any st. Beginning bobble in same st, ch 2, sk 1 st, bobble in next st, ch 2, sk 1 st; repeat from * around. Join to top of beginning bobble. (12 bobbles, 12 ch-2 sps)* Fasten off.
Push each bobble out to the right side so it stands up.
Round 4 (rust): Join rust in any ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, sc in top of next bobble, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, sc in top of next bobble; repeat from * around. Join. (36 dc + 12 sc = 48 sts)* Fasten off.
Each 3-dc group makes a small rust wedge between two bobbles.
Round 5 (yellow): Join yellow in the center dc of any 3-dc group. Beginning bobble in same st, ch 3, sk next 3 sts (dc, sc, dc), bobble in center dc of next 3-dc group, ch 3, sk next 3 sts; repeat from * around. Join. (12 bobbles, 12 ch-3 sps)* Fasten off.
This second bobble ring sits offset from the first. Together they make a staggered double ring of yellow around the rust wedges.
Round 6 (rust): Join rust in top of any bobble. Ch 1, sc in same st, 4 hdc in next ch-3 sp, sc in top of next bobble, 4 hdc in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * around. Join to first sc. (12 sc + 48 hdc = 60 sts)* Fasten off.
Checkpoint: 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
The Teal Band and Cream Line
Round 7 (teal): Join teal in any sc. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * around. Join. (72 dc)*
Round 8 (teal): Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in same st and next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join to first hdc. (84 hdc)* Fasten off.
Round 9 (cream): Join cream in any st. Ch 1, sc in same st and next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * around. Join to first sc. (96 sc)* Fasten off.
This thin cream round separates the teal band from the rust points. Checkpoint: 5 in (12.7 cm). This is your size before the border.
Border: Rust Points and Cream Scallops
Border gauge: Round 9 has 96 sc around a 5 in (12.7 cm) circle. The circumference is about 15.7 in (39.9 cm), so you have about 6 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm).
The border has 24 repeats. If you think of the circle as 4 quarters, each quarter has 24 sc from Round 9 and holds 6 points and 6 scallops. Use these quarters like the sides of a square when you check your counts.
Round 10 (rust points): Join rust in any sc. Ch 1, sc in same st, hdc in next st, (dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc) in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, (dc, tr, ch 2, tr, dc) in next st, hdc in next st; repeat from * around. Join to first sc. (7 sts per point × 24 = 168 sts, plus 24 ch-2 tip sps)* Fasten off.
Each repeat uses 4 sts of Round 9. It rises from a low sc in the valley to a tall tr peak, which gives you 24 sharp rust triangles. Checkpoint: 6.25 in (15.9 cm) from tip to tip.
Round 11 (cream fill): Join cream in any ch-2 tip sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in tip sp, ch 2, sk next 3 sts (tr, dc, hdc), tr in valley sc, ch 2, sk next 3 sts (hdc, dc, tr); repeat from * around. Join to first sc. (3 sts per repeat × 24 = 72 sts, plus 72 ch-2 sps)*
The tr in each valley fills the dip between rust points with cream, so the outer edge becomes almost round again.
Round 12 (cream scallops): Sl st into the first ch-2 tip sp. Ch 1, sc in tip ch-2 sp, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next tr, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp; repeat from * around. Join to first sc. (1 sc + 7 dc = 8 sts per scallop × 24 = 192 sts)* Do not fasten off.
Each 7-dc fan sits over a valley, and each sc anchors at a rust tip. The ch-2 spaces leave small eyelets behind the scallops, which gives the cream edge its lacy look.
Why the math works: 96 sc divides evenly by the 4-st repeat, which gives 24 points. Each point makes exactly 1 tip sp and 1 valley sc, and Round 11 uses each of them once. Round 11 makes exactly 3 ch-2 sps and 1 tr per repeat, and Round 12 uses all of them. No partial repeat is left over, so the edge closes cleanly at 7 in (17.8 cm).
Hanging Loop
Your hook is now at the sc on a tip. This sc becomes the top of the hanger. Ch 30, sl st into the same sc. Fasten off. The folded loop is about 3 in (7.6 cm) long.
From the top, count 12 sc tips around the edge (half of 24). Mark that tip. It is the bottom point, where the tassel goes.
Tassel and Bead
- Hold 1 strand each of cream, rust, yellow, and teal together. Wrap them around the 8 in (20.3 cm) card 10 times. (40 wraps, 80 strand ends)
- Slide a 12 in (30.5 cm) cream strand under the wraps at the top edge and tie it tightly. Leave both tails long.
- Cut the bottom loops and slide the bundle off the card.
- With teal, wrap tightly 8 times around the bundle 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top fold. Knot, then bury the ends inside the tassel. The fold above the wrap forms a rounded, striped head.
- Thread both tie tails through the wooden bead.
- Pull the tails through the marked bottom sc, from front to back. Tie them securely so the bead sits snug under the scallop edge. Weave the tails into the back of Round 12.
- Trim the tassel ends evenly to 7 in (17.8 cm) below the teal wrap.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the wrong side, each into stitches of the same color.
- Spray the motif until it is damp but not dripping.
- Lay it face down on the blocking mat. Keep the tassel off the mat.
- Pin the center first, then pin the circle out to 7 in (17.8 cm) diameter.
- Pin the tip of each of the 24 rust points so it points straight out.
- Pin the middle of each cream scallop to round it.
- Check that the teal band is an even circle, 4.25 in (10.8 cm) across its outer edge.
- Let it dry fully, for at least 12 hours.
- Steam the tassel lightly and comb the strands straight with your fingers.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The motif measures 7 in (17.8 cm) across.
- Round 9 has 96 sc.
- Each yellow round has 12 bobbles, and all of them sit on the right side.
- There are 24 rust points, all the same height.
- There are 24 cream scallops, each with 7 dc.
- The motif lies flat with no cupping or ruffling.
- The loop sits directly above the tassel, so the hanger hangs straight.
- The bead is snug and the tassel is trimmed evenly.
- All ends are woven in and can’t be seen from the front.
Troubleshooting
Center cups: Your tension is tight. Loosen up, or go up a hook size.
Teal band ruffles: Your dc stitches are loose. Work Round 7 with a smaller hook.
Bobbles are flat: Push them to the right side. Pull each loop up to full dc height before you close the bobble.
Points lean sideways: You missed a st. Each repeat in Round 10 must use exactly 4 sts of Round 9. Count 24 sc per quarter before you start.
Scallops look crowded: Check that Round 11 has ch 2, not ch 3, in each space.
Color seams show: Your joins are stacked. Start each new color a few stitches to the side of the last one.
Hanger tilts: The loop and tassel are not directly opposite each other. Count 12 tips from the top again.
Tassel looks thin: Add 2–3 more wraps of each color.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat. Re-pin the points while damp and comb the tassel when dry.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. Rounds 1–3 measure 2.25 in (5.7 cm) and Round 6 measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm). Round 9 measures 5 in (12.7 cm) with 96 sc, Round 10 measures 6.25 in (15.9 cm) with 24 points, and Round 12 measures 7 in (17.8 cm). If each checkpoint matches, your Sunburst Mandala will hang flat and bright in any window.
Happy crocheting!