Caramel Sunburst Lace Heart Crochet Pattern

This lace heart starts as a sunburst. A tiny open ring sits at the center, ringed by sixteen double crochet spokes. Fans of taller treble spokes fill the two upper lobes, and an airy chain mesh runs down the sides to a crisp point. A round of single crochet frames it all with a smooth, firm outline.

The heart is shown here in one warm caramel cotton. That color shows off the stitch texture without hiding the open spaces. The look is light, vintage-style lace, and it works well as an appliqué, a gift tag, a coaster-style decoration, or a hanging ornament.

The pattern uses US crochet terms throughout. The finished heart measures about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide and 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall from the top of the lobes to the bottom point.

Construction is simple and continuous. You work the circular sunburst center in three rounds. In Round 4 you shape the heart by working lobe fans, side mesh, and a point into that circle. Round 5 evens out the outline with chain loops, and Round 6 is a single crochet border. You never turn, and you finish the whole heart without cutting the yarn.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall
• Skill level: Easy-intermediate (working into chain spaces, treble fans)
• Terminology: US crochet terms
• Yarn weight: DK / light worsted (#3), cotton
• Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
• Number of pieces: 1
• Layout: Single motif, worked in joined rounds from the center out
• Piece size: 5 in (12.7 cm) x 4.75 in (12.1 cm)
• Size before border (after Round 5): 4.5 in (11.4 cm) x 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
• Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every side

Materials

Yarn advice: Pick a smooth, tightly plied cotton or cotton blend in DK weight. Mercerized cotton gives the crisp spokes and slight sheen seen here. Avoid fuzzy or loosely spun yarns, because they blur the open spaces and make the spokes hard to see.

• Caramel / tan (single color): 10 g, about 23 m (25 yd)

Quantities include a comfortable margin. One heart uses closer to 6–7 g. The extra covers your gauge swatch, a few practice rounds, and a long tail for sewing or hanging.

Tools:

• 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stitch marker (1)
• Ruler or tape measure
• Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat or folded towel
• Spray bottle with clean water

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• tr – treble crochet
• sp(s) – space(s)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• beg – beginning
• [ ] – repeat the instructions inside the brackets the stated number of times

Special stitch – Lobe Fan: In one ch-4 loop, work [tr, ch 2] 3 times, then tr. That gives 4 tr and 3 ch-2 sps in the same loop. To make a treble: yarn over twice, insert the hook, pull up a loop, then [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] 3 times.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge is not critical for a decorative heart, but it does control the final size. Work Rounds 1–3 first and measure before you go on.

Gauge: Rounds 1–3 = 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.

Checkpoints (measured flat, unblocked):

• After Round 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
• After Round 2: 2 in (5.1 cm) across
• After Round 3: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across
• After Round 4: about 4 in (10.2 cm) wide x 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
• After Round 5: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide x 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall
• After Round 6: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall

If your circle is too big (more than 2.75 in / 7.0 cm after Round 3), go down to a 3.25 mm hook, or pull the chain spaces a little snugger.

If your circle is too small (less than 2.25 in / 5.7 cm after Round 3), go up to a 3.75 mm hook.

If the circle cups, your chains are too tight compared with your stitches. Loosen the ch-2 spaces in Round 2.

If the circle ruffles, your chains are too loose. Snug them slightly.

Pattern: Sunburst Center

Foundation: Ch 4, then sl st into the first ch to form a ring. The ring becomes the open center hole.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 15 dc into the ring, then sl st into the top of the beg ch-3 to join.
Stitch count: 16 dc.

Keep the ring open. Don’t pull the stitches tight around it. The center hole should be about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) across.

Round 2 (spoke round): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). [Dc in next dc, ch 2] 15 times. Join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of the beg ch-5.
Stitch count: 16 dc, 16 ch-2 sps.

The 16 dc are the sunburst spokes. Each one sits directly above a Round 1 stitch, so the rays line up straight from the ring.

Round 3 (chain-loop ring): Sl st into the first ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp. [Ch 4, sc in next ch-2 sp] 15 times, ch 4, then join with a sl st into the first sc.
Stitch count: 16 sc, 16 ch-4 loops.

This round closes the sunburst with an outer ring of chains.

Orient the circle: Hold the work right side facing you, with the join sc at the top center. Count the ch-4 loops clockwise from the join as loops 1 through 16. Loops 1 and 16 sit on either side of the top center, and the bottom of the heart falls between loops 8 and 9. Place a marker in loop 1 if that helps.

Pattern: Heart Shaping

Round 4 (shaping round): This round turns the circle into a heart. Fans go in loops 2–3 and 14–15 to build the lobes. Mesh loops run down the sides, and one longer chain makes the point.

Right half:

1. Sl st into loop 1, ch 1, sc in loop 1. This is the top dip.
2. Ch 3. Work a Lobe Fan in loop 2, ch 2, then a Lobe Fan in loop 3. This is the right lobe.
3. Ch 3, sc in loop 4.
4. [Ch 5, sc in next loop] 4 times. You’ll end with a sc in loop 8.
5. Ch 6, sc in loop 9. This is the bottom point.

Left half (mirror image):

1. [Ch 5, sc in next loop] 4 times. You’ll end with a sc in loop 13.
2. Ch 3. Work a Lobe Fan in loop 14, ch 2, then a Lobe Fan in loop 15. This is the left lobe.
3. Ch 3, sc in loop 16.
4. Ch 1, then join with a sl st into the first sc.

Stitch count: 12 sc and 16 tr (28 sts). The 28 sps are 1 ch-1 dip, 4 ch-3 sps, 14 ch-2 sps (7 per lobe), 8 ch-5 loops, and 1 ch-6 point.

Each lobe has 8 treble spokes: 2 fans of 4. The spokes sit in neighboring loops of the circle, so they radiate out from the sunburst. The ch-2 between the two fans keeps the spacing even across the lobe. On the lower sides, the sc-and-ch-5 mesh pulls the outline into straight edges, and the ch-6 lets the point stretch longer than the sides.

Round 5 (outline round): Sl st into the ch-1 dip, ch 1, sc in the same sp (call this sc A).

Right half:

1. Ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp.
2. [Ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 7 times.
3. Ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp.
4. [Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop] 4 times.
5. Ch 5, then work (sc, ch 3, sc) in the ch-6 point loop.

Left half:

1. [Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop] 4 times.
2. Ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 sp.
3. [Ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 7 times.
4. Ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 sp.
5. Ch 3, then join with a sl st into sc A.

Stitch count: 29 sc and 29 loops: 18 ch-3 lobe loops, 10 ch-5 side loops, and 1 ch-3 point loop.

Check the count: Round 4 has 28 spaces. You work 1 sc into each of them, plus 1 extra sc at the point, for 29 sc. The round is closed, so there are exactly as many loops as sc: 29.

Each half has 9 ch-3 loops and 5 ch-5 loops, so the heart is symmetrical. Measure now. The heart should be 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide x 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.

Border

Border gauge: 1 sc per chain, so a ch-3 loop takes 3 sc and a ch-5 loop takes 5 sc. With this gauge, 5 sc fill about 1 in (2.5 cm) of edge, and the finished border is 0.25 in (0.6 cm) deep.

Round 6 (single crochet border): Ch 1. Don’t turn, and don’t work into sc A.

Right half:

1. [3 sc in next ch-3 loop] 9 times. This covers the right lobe.
2. [5 sc in next ch-5 loop] 5 times. This covers the right side.
3. In the ch-3 point loop, work (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc).

Left half:

1. [5 sc in next ch-5 loop] 5 times. This covers the left side.
2. [3 sc in next ch-3 loop] 9 times. This covers the left lobe.
3. Join with a sl st into the first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.

Counts per side:

• Lobe edge: 9 loops x 3 sc = 27 sc
• Lower side: 5 loops x 5 sc = 25 sc
• Point half: 2 sc
• Each half: 27 + 25 + 2 = 54 sc
• Total: 54 x 2 = 108 sc, plus 1 ch-2 point space

Why the math works: You work exactly one sc per chain, so the border matches the length of the edge it covers. It won’t pull in or ruffle.

• Lobe curves: The short ch-3 loops sit on the curves, so the 27 sc per lobe spread evenly around each curve.
• Point: The ch-2 at the point acts like a corner. It lets the edge turn sharply without bunching.
• Top dip: You skip sc A, so the edge pulls in slightly there and makes a clean V-dip without any decrease.

Final Blocking

1. Weave in the starting tail through the back of Round 1 so it doesn’t show through the open spaces. Weave in the ending tail along the back of the border.
2. Lay the heart right side up on a blocking mat or a folded towel.
3. Spray it evenly with water until it’s damp all the way through, but not dripping.
4. Pin the bottom point first, then pin the top center dip directly above it. The distance between them should be about 4.25 in (10.8 cm).
5. Pin the widest part of each lobe so the heart measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
6. Pin the top of each lobe so the full height reaches 4.75 in (12.1 cm).
7. Add pins every 0.5 in (1.3 cm) along the curves and sides. Ease each pin outward so the lobe fans open and the mesh loops lie flat.
8. Use the tip of a pin to open the center ring and straighten the sunburst spokes.
9. Leave it to dry completely before you unpin, usually 6–12 hours. For a crisper result, mist it lightly with spray starch while it is still pinned.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• [ ] The center ring is open and round, with 16 evenly spaced dc spokes.
• [ ] The Round 3 ring has 16 ch-4 loops, and each one holds a single sc.
• [ ] Each lobe has 8 tr spokes in two fans, with open gaps between them.
• [ ] Each side has 4 ch-5 mesh loops in Round 4 and 5 in Round 5.
• [ ] The bottom point is sharp and centered under the top dip.
• [ ] The border totals 108 sc, with 54 on each half.
• [ ] The two halves mirror each other.
• [ ] The heart measures 5 in (12.7 cm) x 4.75 in (12.1 cm) after blocking.
• [ ] All tails are woven in and hidden.

Troubleshooting

The heart is lopsided. Check that the Round 3 join sat at the top center and that each half used the same loops. Recount Round 4: each half should have 2 fans, 1 ch-3 sp on each side of the lobe, and 4 ch-5 loops.

The lobes look flat or squared off. Your trebles may be too short. Pull up each loop to its full height before finishing the stitch. A loose ch-2 between the two fans also helps.

The point is blunt. Make sure the Round 4 point chain is ch 6, not ch 5. Then pin the point firmly during blocking.

The border ripples. You’ve probably added extra sc. Work exactly 3 sc per ch-3 loop and 5 sc per ch-5 loop.

The border pulls the edges inward. Your chains in Round 5 are tighter than your sc. Loosen the chains, or go up a hook size for Round 6 only.

The center hole closed up. The foundation ring was pulled too tight. Next time, work Round 1 over the ring without cinching it.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then press out the water gently in a towel. Don’t wring it. Reshape and lay it flat to dry, pinning again if you want sharp edges.

Final Notes

The size of this heart builds in a clear chain of measurements:

• Center ring: 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
• Spoke round: 2 in (5.1 cm)
• Closed circle: 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
• Shaped heart (Round 4): 4 in (10.2 cm) x 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
• Outlined heart (Round 5): 4.5 in (11.4 cm) x 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
• Finished heart: 5 in (12.7 cm) x 4.75 in (12.1 cm), after the 0.25 in (0.6 cm) border

If your circle hits 2.5 in (6.4 cm) after Round 3, the rest of the heart follows. The stitch counts lock in the shape: 16 spokes, 28 shaping stitches, 29 outline loops, and 108 border sc. Make one in caramel like the sample, or try any smooth cotton you love.

Happy crocheting!