This hanging holder keeps three spare rolls on the wall in a soft powder blue. A long diamond-mesh back panel hangs from a natural wooden ring, with three rounded pocket baskets stacked down its length. Each pocket has a solid base, an open lattice wall and a thick rolled rim.
The look is light and airy, a little like macramé. The knotted diamonds let the white rolls show through, and the solid bands make the holder firm enough to carry the weight. It uses one color throughout, so it suits a calm, neutral bathroom.
All terms are US crochet terms. The finished holder is 8 in (20.3 cm) wide at the pockets and hangs 26 in (66.0 cm) below the ring. Each pocket holds one standard roll up to about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
You will make one back panel in rows and three identical pockets in joined rounds. Then you add a crab-stitch border to the panel, sew on the pockets and fold the top of the panel over the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide at the pockets x 26 in (66.0 cm) long below the ring
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), 100% cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 4 crocheted pieces (1 back panel, 3 pockets) plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 1 column of 3 pockets, stacked vertically on the panel
- Pocket size: 16 in (40.6 cm) rim circumference, 8 in (20.3 cm) wide when flattened, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wall height
- Panel size before border: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) x 26 in (66.0 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) per side, giving 6.5 in (16.5 cm) x 27 in (68.6 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm cotton. It keeps the knots crisp and won’t stretch out under the weight of the rolls. Acrylic works, but it sags more over time.
- Powder Blue: 200 g / about 340 m (372 yd)
- One wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- 6 stitch markers
- Measuring tape
- Rustproof pins and a blocking mat
The quantities include a margin of about 15% for your gauge swatch and the sewing.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- rep – repeat
- crab st – reverse single crochet, worked left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed)
Special stitch – Knot (K): (sc, ch 1, sc) all in the same ch-sp. This small cluster makes the raised knot at each diamond point.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Solid gauge: 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Mesh gauge: 7 ch-5 loops across = 5.5 in (14.0 cm); 8 mesh rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Test one piece first. Make Pocket 3 before anything else, because it uses both gauges. Check these points:
- After Rnd 8: base diameter 3.6 in (9.1 cm).
- After Rnd 10: solid band about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 16: wall about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall from the base ridge.
- After Rnd 21: wall 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall; rim lies 8 in (20.3 cm) wide when flattened.
If your pieces are too big, go down 0.5 mm. If they are too small, go up 0.5 mm. Pull each knot snug in the mesh: loose knots make the loops longer and the panel taller.
Back Panel
The panel is worked from the bottom up in rows. The mesh is a flat knot net with straight edges.
Ch 23.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (22 sc)
Row 2 (set-up): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 5, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc; rep from * 6 more times, turn. (7 ch-5 loops, 8 sc)
Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), K in first ch-5 sp, (ch 5, K in next ch-5 sp) 6 times, ch 2, dc in last sc, turn. (7 knots, 6 full loops, 2 half loops)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 5, K in next full ch-5 sp, (ch 5, K in next ch-5 sp) 5 times, ch 5, sc in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn. (6 knots, 7 loops)
The knots in each row sit in the middle of the loops below, and this builds the diamond lattice.
Rows 5–52: Rep Rows 3–4 twenty-four more times. You now have 50 mesh rows (Rows 3–52).
Checkpoint: The panel measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and about 25.75 in (65.4 cm) long.
Row 53 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in first sc, 3 sc in each of the next 6 ch-5 sps, 2 sc in last ch-5 sp, sc in last sc. Count: 2 edge sc worked 1-per-stitch + 20 sc in ch-sps = 22 sc. Don’t fasten off; the border starts from here.
Checkpoint: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) x 26 in (66.0 cm).
Pocket (Make 3)
The pocket is worked in joined rounds, starting at the center of the base. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc, then ch 1 (the ch 1 doesn’t count as a stitch). Joined rounds keep the mesh straight.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc, inc) 6 times. (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2, inc) 6 times. (24)
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3, inc) 6 times. (30)
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4, inc) 6 times. (36)
Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5, inc) 6 times. (42)
Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6, inc) 6 times. (48)
Checkpoint: Flat circle 3.6 in (9.1 cm) across.
Rnd 9: Sc BLO in each st. (48) This makes the base ridge and turns the work upward.
Rnd 10: Sc in each st. (48) Rnds 9–10 make the solid bottom band.
Rnd 11 (first mesh): Ch 1, sc in first st, *ch 5, sk 2, sc in next st; rep from * 14 more times, ch 5, sk 2, sl st to first sc. (16 ch-5 loops)
Rnd 12: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, K in same ch-5 sp, (ch 5, K in next ch-5 sp) 15 times, ch 5, sl st to first sc. (16 knots, 16 loops)
Rnds 13–14: Sl st in ch-1 sp of first knot, in next sc and in next 2 ch, ch 1, K in same ch-5 sp, (ch 5, K in next ch-5 sp) 15 times, ch 5, sl st to first sc. (16 knots, 16 loops)
Rnds 15–16: Work as Rnd 13, but make every loop ch 6. (16 knots, 16 ch-6 loops) The longer loops make the wall flare outward.
Checkpoint: Wall about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Rnd 17 (conversion): Sl st in ch-1 sp of first knot, ch 1, sc in same sp, 3 sc in next ch-6 sp, *sc in ch-1 sp of next knot, 3 sc in next ch-6 sp; rep from * around. Count: 16 sc worked 1-per-knot + 48 sc in ch-sps = 64 sc.
Rnds 18–20: Sc in each st. (64)
Rnd 21: Crab st in each st. (64) Fasten off and leave a 30 in (76.2 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: Rim circumference 16 in (40.6 cm); 8 in (20.3 cm) wide flattened; wall 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Back panel: 1 in Powder Blue, about 80 g
- Pockets: 3 in Powder Blue, about 35 g each (105 g total)
- Border and sewing: about 15 g
Layout, top to bottom:
( wooden ring )
[ gathered panel top ]
[ mesh, 5 in / 12.7 cm ]
[====== POCKET 1 ======] rim 21 in (53.3 cm) up
[ mesh, 3 in / 7.6 cm ]
[====== POCKET 2 ======] rim 13 in (33.0 cm) up
[ mesh, 3 in / 7.6 cm ]
[====== POCKET 3 ======] rim 5 in (12.7 cm) up
Rim heights are measured from the bottom edge of the bordered panel.
Border
Work the border before you sew on the pockets.
Border gauge: 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along every edge, the same as the solid gauge.
Along the long sides, work 1 sc in each sc row end (Rows 1 and 53) and 2 sc in each mesh row end (Rows 2–52).
Rnd 1: Don’t turn. Continuing from the end of Row 53, ch 2 for the corner and work 104 sc down the first long side. Ch 2. Across the bottom, sc in each of the 22 foundation ch. Ch 2. Work 104 sc up the second long side. Ch 2. Across the top, sc in each of the 22 sc of Row 53. Sl st to first sc.
– Long sides: 104 sc each (1 + 2 + 100 + 1)
– Top and bottom: 22 sc each
– Total: 252 sc + 4 corner ch-2 sps
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp. Sl st to first sc.
– Long sides: 106 sc each
– Top and bottom: 24 sc each
– Total: 260 sc + 4 corner ch-2 sps
Each corner adds one sc to each of the two sides it touches, so every side grows by exactly 2.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, crab st in each sc around and 1 crab st in each corner ch-2 sp. Sl st to first st. (264 sts: 106 + 106 + 24 + 24 + 4 corners) Fasten off.
Why the math works: Each long side is 26 in (66.0 cm). At 4 sc per inch, that side needs 104 sc. One sc per solid row plus 2 sc per 0.5 in (1.3 cm) mesh row gives exactly 104. The top and bottom keep their original 22 stitches, so the edges neither ruffle nor pull in. New stitches are added only at the corners.
Checkpoint: Bordered panel 6.5 in (16.5 cm) x 27 in (68.6 cm).
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with the yarn tail, going through the back loop of the pocket rim and through the panel.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
- Flatten one pocket. Mark the center front rim stitch as stitch 1. The back of the rim is stitches 20–45, which is 26 stitches.
- At 4 stitches per inch, 26 rim stitches equal 6.5 in (16.5 cm), the full width of the bordered panel. Pin rim stitch 20 to the left outer edge and stitch 45 to the right outer edge at the marked height.
- Whipstitch the 26 back rim stitches across the panel, spacing them evenly through the mesh knots and the border.
- The other 38 rim stitches stay free: 32 across the front and 3 on each side, which curve forward to form the open scoop.
- Tack the center back of the base ridge (Rnd 9) to the panel 4.5 in (11.4 cm) below the rim line, across 6 stitches.
Sew Pocket 3 first, then Pocket 2, then Pocket 1, using the heights in the layout grid.
Tension: Pull each stitch just snug. Sewing too tightly puckers the mesh; sewing too loosely lets the pocket tip forward under a full roll.
Ring: Weave a strand through the 24 top-edge stitches. Wrap the top edge around the lower curve of the ring toward the back and gather it to 3 in (7.6 cm). Whipstitch it to the panel 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top edge.
Size checkpoint: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide at the pockets and 26 in (66.0 cm) from the ring to the bottom edge.
Final Blocking
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes.
- Press the water out in a towel. Don’t wring it.
- Lay the panel flat and pin it to 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide.
- Pin out the mesh knots so the diamonds are even and open.
- Fill each pocket with a roll inside a plastic bag, or with a rolled towel, to set the rounded shape.
- Let it dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Remove the pins and hang the holder on its hook.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Panel is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide and even from top to bottom.
- Every knot is snug and centered over the loop below.
- Each pocket rim has 64 stitches and measures 16 in (40.6 cm).
- All three pockets are level and centered.
- Both gaps between pockets are 3 in (7.6 cm).
- Back rims are sewn edge to edge with no gaps.
- The top fold holds the ring securely.
- All ends are woven in through solid stitches.
Troubleshooting
Panel sides are wavy: There are too many border stitches. Rework Rnd 1 with exactly 104 sc per side.
Mesh is too long: The knots are loose. Tighten the second sc of each knot, or use a smaller hook.
Pocket is too narrow for the roll: Check that Rnd 17 has 64 sc. If it does, go up 0.5 mm.
Pocket tips forward: Add the base tack from step 5 of Joining, or sew more firmly.
Diamonds lean to one side: A knot went into the wrong loop. Count 7 loops per row on the panel and 16 loops per round on the pockets.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Reshape the pockets while they are still damp.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain. A gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 3.6 in (9.1 cm) base, a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wall and a 64-stitch rim of 16 in (40.6 cm). The panel’s 22 stitches and 50 mesh rows give 5.5 in x 26 in (14.0 cm x 66.0 cm). The border’s 104 stitches per side match that length and bring the panel to 6.5 in x 27 in (16.5 cm x 68.6 cm). The 26 back rim stitches match the panel width, and the 1 in (2.5 cm) fold leaves 26 in (66.0 cm) below the ring.
Check each stage as you go, and the finished holder will hang straight and hold its rolls securely.
Happy crocheting!