This hanging organizer stacks three oval baskets one above the other. Two crocheted side straps hold them, and each strap wraps around a wooden dowel above every basket. Each basket has a solid single crochet base and lower band, a band of open diamond lattice in the middle, and a firm solid top band finished with a corded reverse single crochet rim.
The sample is worked in one color, a soft sage green cotton, with natural wood dowels. The look is calm and a little Scandinavian, and it suits a bathroom wall holding brushes, tubes, and rolled washcloths.
All instructions use US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 10.25 in long x 4 in deep x 5.5 in tall (26.0 x 10.2 x 14.0 cm). The whole organizer is about 13 in (33.0 cm) wide at the dowels and about 29 in (73.7 cm) tall from the top of the hanging ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.
Each basket is worked in joined rounds: an oval base on a foundation chain, straight solid walls, a mesh section, a conversion round, more solid rounds, and a two-round rim. The straps are long single crochet strips. In assembly you sew the straps to the basket ends, wrap them around the dowels, and join them at the top with a small ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished organizer: 13 in (33.0 cm) wide x 29 in (73.7 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy-Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 2 side straps, 1 hanging ring, plus 3 dowels
- Layout: 1 vertical column of 3 baskets, with a dowel above each basket
- Piece size (one basket): 10.25 x 4 x 5.5 in (26.0 x 10.2 x 14.0 cm)
- Wall height before rim: 5 in (12.7 cm)
- Rim (border) depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape under load and copes well with bathroom humidity. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, because the lattice will sag.
- Sage green: 350 g, about 665 yd (608 m), based on a yarn with about 95 yd (87 m) per 50 g
These quantities include a margin of roughly 15 percent. The finished organizer uses about 300 g.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 3 wooden dowels, 3/8 in (1.0 cm) diameter, 13 in (33.0 cm) long
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors and measuring tape
- Wood glue (optional)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- inc – 2 sc in the same st
- BLO – back loop only
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed). Insert the hook into the next st to the right, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Yarn over and draw through both loops. This makes a twisted, corded edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 15 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in joined rounds.
Test one piece first. Work a single basket base through Rnd 7 and measure it before you go on. That base is your real gauge swatch.
Checkpoints for one basket:
- After Rnd 7: base measures 10.25 x 4 in (26.0 x 10.2 cm)
- After Rnd 12: solid lower wall is about 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall
- After Rnd 16: total wall is about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- After Rnd 21: total wall is 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
- After the rim: total height is 5.5 in (14.0 cm), circumference about 25 in (63.5 cm)
If your base is too big, go down half a hook size (4.5 mm). If it is too small, go up to 5.5 mm. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the mesh repeat needs exactly 88 sts.
Basket (Make 3)
Join every round with a sl st to the first sc. Begin each round with ch 1 (does not count as a st) and work the first sc into the same st as the join.
Oval Base
Rnd 1: Ch 26. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 23 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work along the opposite side of the foundation ch: sc in next 23 ch, 2 sc in the last ch (the one already holding the first sc). Join. (52 sts: 23 per straight side, 3 at each end)
Rnd 2: Inc in first st, sc in next 23, inc in each of next 3, sc in next 23, inc in each of last 2. Join. (58 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, inc] once, sc in next 23, [sc in next st, inc] 3 times, sc in next 23, [sc in next st, inc] 2 times. Join. (64 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2, inc] once, sc in next 23, [sc in next 2, inc] 3 times, sc in next 23, [sc in next 2, inc] 2 times. Join. (70 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3, inc] once, sc in next 23, [sc in next 3, inc] 3 times, sc in next 23, [sc in next 3, inc] 2 times. Join. (76 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc in next 4, inc] once, sc in next 23, [sc in next 4, inc] 3 times, sc in next 23, [sc in next 4, inc] 2 times. Join. (82 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc in next 5, inc] once, sc in next 23, [sc in next 5, inc] 3 times, sc in next 23, [sc in next 5, inc] 2 times. Join. (88 sts: 23 per straight side, 21 at each end)
Each round adds 6 sts, 3 at each curved end, while the straight sides stay at 23 sts. Place markers in st 41 and st 85 of Rnd 7. These are the centers of the two curved ends, and they show you where the straps go. Checkpoint: 10.25 x 4 in (26.0 x 10.2 cm).
Lower Solid Wall
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (88 sts) The unused front loops create a crisp fold where the base turns up into the wall.
Rnds 9–12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (88 sts)
Move the markers up to Rnd 12, keeping them over the end centers.
Lattice Mesh
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 20 more times, ch 5, sk last 3 sts. Join to first sc. (22 sc and 22 ch-5 loops)*
Math: 88 sts ÷ 4 sts per repeat = 22 repeats. Each sc uses 1 st and each loop skips 3.
Rnd 14: Sl st in first 2 ch of next loop, ch 1, sc in center (3rd) ch of same loop, ch 5, sc in center ch of next ch-5 loop; repeat from * around, ending ch 5. Join to first sc. (22 sc and 22 ch-5 loops)*
Rnds 15–16: Repeat Rnd 14. (22 sc and 22 ch-5 loops)
Each sc sits at the top center of a loop from the round below, forming the diamond lattice with small knot points. Tug each round gently downward to open the diamonds. Checkpoint: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) total wall height.
Conversion Round and Upper Solid Wall
Rnd 17 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch-5 loop; repeat from * around. Join. (88 sts = 22 sc worked 1 per existing sc + 66 sc added in the loops, 3 per loop)*
Rnds 18–21: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (88 sts)
In Rnd 21, mark the end centers again. Fold the basket flat with the base lined up and mark the center st at each fold. Count 10 sts on each side of each marker. That gives 21 sts per end (including the marked st) and 23 sts per long side. Checkpoint: 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
Fasten off and weave in the tail. You’ll work the rim after joining.
Side Straps (Make 2)
Row 1: Ch 127. Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Fasten off. (126 sc)
Working into the back bump keeps both edges neat and helps stop the strap twisting. At 3.5 sts per inch, 126 sc = 36 in (91.4 cm). Checkpoint: 36 in (91.4 cm) relaxed. If the strap is more than 1 in (2.5 cm) off, change the chain by 4 ch.
Hanging Ring (Make 1)
Ch 12, join with a sl st to form a ring. Ch 1, work 18 sc into the ring, join. (18 sts) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, about 95 g each (285 g)
- Side straps: 2, about 6.5 g each (13 g)
- Hanging ring: 1, about 2 g
Layout grid:
( ring )
/ \
======== Dowel 1 ========
[ Basket 1 ]
======== Dowel 2 ========
[ Basket 2 ]
======== Dowel 3 ========
[ Basket 3 ]
Joining
Mark the straps. Lay both straps flat side by side. Measure from the top end and mark the dowel wraps at 9 in (22.9 cm), 17.25 in (43.8 cm), and 25.5 in (64.8 cm). Mark the basket rims at 11 in (27.9 cm), 19.25 in (48.9 cm), and 27.5 in (69.9 cm).
Mark the dowels. Mark each dowel 1.25 in (3.2 cm) in from each end. This leaves 10.5 in (26.7 cm) between the straps, which matches the basket length plus the strap thickness.
Wrap the dowels. At each dowel mark on a strap, wrap the strap once all the way around the dowel, lining it up with the mark on the dowel. Sew the strap to itself just below the dowel with 3 or 4 firm stitches. Each wrap uses about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) of strap. A dot of glue under each wrap holds the dowel in place.
Sew the baskets. Line up each rim mark with Rnd 21 at an end-center marker. Whipstitch the strap down the center line of the end, one stitch per basket round. In the solid rounds (Rnds 8–12 and 17–21), go through the marked center st. In the mesh rounds (Rnds 13–16), go around the knot or loop nearest the center line. That makes 14 whipstitches per basket end, from Rnd 21 down to Rnd 8, along the 5 in (12.7 cm) wall. The next 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of strap curves under the base edge, and the remaining 0.75 in (1.9 cm) bridges to the next dowel.
Keep the tension snug but not tight. The strap should lie flat without puckering the wall. Pulling too hard flattens the end curve and tilts the basket.
Below Basket 3, fold the last 3 in (7.6 cm) of each strap under the base toward the center and sew it flat.
Top. Sew the top end of each strap to opposite sides of the hanging ring.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer. The dowels should sit level and 7 in (17.8 cm) apart, and each Rnd 21 should sit 0.75 in (1.9 cm) below its dowel. The full height should be about 29 in (73.7 cm).
Border (Basket Rim)
Work the rim on each basket after joining so it covers the strap tops.
Border gauge: 14 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the body.
Join the yarn at the start of a long side.
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc in each st around. At each end, work the marked center st and the st on each side of it through both the basket and the strap. Join. (88 sts: 23 front, 21 end, 23 back, 21 end)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (88 sts: 23 front, 21 end, 23 back, 21 end)
Why the math works: The walls go straight up, so the rim keeps the wall’s 88 sts. At 3.5 sts per inch that’s about 25 in (63.5 cm) around, which matches the top of the basket. Extra stitches would make the rim ruffle, and skipped stitches would pull it in. The per-side counts add up exactly: 23 + 21 + 23 + 21 = 88. The curved ends are their own 21-st groups, so nothing is counted twice.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along solid rounds, never through the mesh.
- Mist each basket lightly until damp.
- Stuff each basket firmly with a folded towel to set the oval.
- Ease the lattice downward so the diamonds open evenly.
- Roll the rev sc rim slightly outward with your fingers.
- Let everything dry completely while hanging, at least 12 hours.
- Check that the dowels are level, and adjust the wraps if needed.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base measures 10.25 x 4 in (26.0 x 10.2 cm)
- Each basket has 22 loops per round in 4 mesh rounds
- Rnds 17–23 each have 88 sts
- All three baskets are 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall
- Straps are 36 in (91.4 cm) long and sewn on the end center lines
- Dowels are level and 7 in (17.8 cm) apart
- The hanging ring is sewn securely to both straps
- No ends show in the lattice
Troubleshooting
- Base cups up: Your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size for the base only.
- Base ruffles: Your tension is too loose, or extra increases crept in. Recount each round.
- Mesh count is off: Check that Rnd 12 has exactly 88 sts before you start Rnd 13.
- Diamonds look uneven: Make sure each sc goes into the center (3rd) ch of a loop.
- Basket tilts: The strap is off-center. Mark the end centers again and resew.
- Dowels slip: Sew the wraps tighter or add glue.
- Baskets differ in height: Check your row gauge and block all three together.
Care
Remove the dowels and hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape and dry hanging or flat, away from direct heat.
Final Notes
Everything comes from one gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). That gauge gives a 10.25 x 4 in (26.0 x 10.2 cm) base with 88 sts around. The 88 sts divide into 22 lattice repeats, the conversion round brings the count back to 88, and it stays at 88 through the rim. Each basket finishes 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall. Three baskets on 36 in (91.4 cm) straps, with dowels 7 in (17.8 cm) apart, give a 29 in (73.7 cm) organizer. Check each stage as you go and the whole piece will hang level.
Happy crocheting!