This holder keeps your plastic bags in one tidy tube. You push bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time through the narrower opening at the bottom. The tube is covered in rows of rounded crocodile-stitch scales, so it looks a bit like a mermaid’s tail on the wall.
The samples are made in a soft peach and a deep navy. Each holder uses one color only, so the texture does all the work. Smooth cotton or a cotton blend in a solid color shows the scales best.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat, 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 15 in (38.1 cm) long. With the ring, it hangs about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) long.
The holder is worked in one piece, from the bottom up, in joined rounds without turning. You start with a narrow single crochet band for the bottom opening. Then you increase once and work 12 tiers of crocodile scales. A plain single crochet band finishes the top. Last, you cover a ring in single crochet and attach it to the back of the rim with a short strap.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat × 15 in (38.1 cm) long; about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) including the ring
- Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm) for the body; 9 in (22.9 cm) for the bottom opening
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube, plus 1 covered ring attached with a strap
- Layout: Single vertical tube; scales point downward
- Piece size: 6 in × 15 in (15.2 cm × 38.1 cm) laid flat
- Size before top band: 6 in × 13 in (15.2 cm × 33.0 cm)
- Top band depth: about 2 in (5.1 cm); bottom band depth about 1 in (2.5 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend at about 170 m per 100 g. Cotton holds the scale shape well and doesn’t stretch much when the tube is full of bags. Crocodile stitch uses a lot of yarn, so buy a little more than you think you need.
- Peach (sample 1): 200 g / 340 m
- Navy (sample 2): 200 g / 340 m
You need one color per holder. These amounts include about a 15% margin for your gauge swatch and small tension differences.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 3 in (7.6 cm) metal or plastic ring
– Stitch marker
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– A rolled towel or tube about 12 in (30.5 cm) around, for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd – round
- beg – beginning
Special stitch: Scale. Work it over one pair of dc, with the right side facing.
- Turn the work so the first dc of the pair lies sideways.
- Work 5 dc around the post of that dc, going from the top of the post down to its base.
- Ch 1.
- Work 5 dc around the post of the second dc of the pair, going from the base up to the top.
Each scale has 11 parts: 5 dc, ch 1, 5 dc. The ch-1 is the scale’s center point, and it fans out as a rounded shell that hangs down over the round below.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Single crochet gauge: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Scale gauge: 8 scales around = 12 in (30.5 cm), and 1 tier (a base round plus a scale round) adds about 1 in (2.5 cm) of height.
Test first. Work the bottom band and two full tiers before you go further. Lay the tube flat and measure.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 4: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide flat
– After Rnd 5: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat
– After Tier 4: about 5 in (12.7 cm) tall from the bottom edge
– After Tier 12: about 13 in (33.0 cm) tall
– Finished: 15 in (38.1 cm) tall, not counting the ring
If your piece is too big: go down to a 4.5 mm (7) hook. If it is too small: go up to a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook.
Keep the stitch counts the same. The 48-stitch body has to stay a multiple of 6 for the scales to line up.
Pattern
Bottom Band
Ch 36 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Don’t twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Rnds 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Rnd 5 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 12 times total, sl st to first sc. (36 + 12 = 48 sc)
Place a marker at the start of the round. Check that the tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat.
Scale Body
Base Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, ch 1, sk 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 sts; repeat from * 15 more times, sl st to top of beg ch-3. (16 pairs: 32 dc + 16 ch-1 sps = 48 sts)
Number the pairs 1 to 16 in your head. The beg ch-3 and the dc next to it are pair 1.
Scale Round 1: Work 1 Scale over the next pair, sl st between the 2 dc of the following pair; repeat from * 8 times total. (8 scales on pairs 1, 3, 5 and so on up to pair 15)
The unused pairs (2, 4, 6 and so on) stay as anchors. The scales should hang down over the bottom band.
Base Round 2: Sl st into the center ch-1 of the first scale. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same ch-1, ch 1, 2 dc in next sl st, ch 1, 2 dc in center ch-1 of next scale, ch 1, 2 dc in next sl st, ch 1; repeat from * 7 more times, sl st to top of beg ch-3. (16 pairs: 32 dc + 16 ch-1 sps = 48 sts)
While you work the base round, fold each scale down toward you so you can reach the stitches behind it.
Scale Round 2: Sl st across to the pair worked into the first sl st. Work 1 Scale over that pair, sl st between the 2 dc of the next pair (the pair on a scale’s center); repeat from * 8 times total. (8 scales)
These new scales sit between the scales of the tier below, which gives the staggered look.
Tiers 3–12: Repeat Base Round 2 and Scale Round 2 ten more times, for 12 tiers in total. Every base round has 16 pairs (48 sts). Every scale round has 8 scales, and each tier sits halfway across the one below.
Check: the tube should now be about 13 in (33.0 cm) tall and still 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat.
Closing Base Round (Rnd 13): Work as Base Round 2. (16 pairs: 32 dc + 16 ch-1 sps = 48 sts) Don’t work a scale round after it.
Border: Top Band and Ring Hanger
The top band does the job of a border. It firms up the opening so the tube keeps its round shape when it’s full.
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Top Rnd 1 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to first sc. (32 sc in dc + 16 sc in ch-1 sps = 48 sc)
Top Rnds 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (48 sc)
Laid flat, the tube has 24 sc on the front side and 24 sc on the back. A tube has no corners, so there are no corner stitches to add.
Why the math works: 48 sc ÷ 16 sc per 4 in = 12 in (30.5 cm) around. Half of that is 6 in (15.2 cm) laid flat, the same as the scale body. The bottom band has 36 sc ÷ 4 = 9 in (22.9 cm) around, or 4.5 in (11.4 cm) laid flat. That narrower opening holds the bags in and lets you pull them out one at a time.
Strap: Find the 8 center stitches on the back of the tube.
Row 1: Join yarn in the first of those 8 stitches. Ch 1, sc in the same st and the next 7 sts, turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2–10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (8 sc)
The strap is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide and about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long. Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Covering the ring: Join yarn to the ring with a sl st. Work sc tightly around the ring until it is fully covered, about 56 sc for a 3 in (7.6 cm) ring. Push the stitches together as you go so none of the ring shows through, adding or skipping a few stitches if needed. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off. Weave in the ends.
Attaching the ring: Pass the strap through the covered ring from front to back. Fold it down against the inside of the top band. Whipstitch the last row of the strap to Top Rnd 2 on the inside, using the long tail. The ring should stand straight up above the rim.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all the ends along the inside of the tube.
- Wet the holder in cool water, gently squeeze out the water, and roll it in a towel.
- Slide a rolled towel about 12 in (30.5 cm) around inside the tube.
- Smooth each scale so it fans out and lies flat over the tier below.
- Pin or ease the tube to 15 in (38.1 cm) long and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat.
- Leave it to dry completely. Then take out the towel and hang the holder.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 8 scales in every tier, and 12 tiers in total
- Every tier is offset halfway from the tier below
- Bottom band is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide laid flat
- Body and top band are 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat
- Total length is 15 in (38.1 cm), not counting the ring
- None of the ring shows through the stitches
- Strap is centered on the back and sewn on firmly
- All ends are woven in on the inside
Troubleshooting
The scales stack in straight columns. You scaled the same pairs twice. Each new scale round has to use the pairs that were the anchors in the tier below.
The scales curl or ruffle. Your 5 dc on each post are too loose. Work them a little tighter, or use 4 dc per post with the same ch-1 center.
The tube flares out. Count your base rounds. Each one needs exactly 16 pairs (48 sts).
The bottom is too tight for bags to come out. Start with 40 ch instead of 36. Then on Rnd 5, work (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times to get back to 48.
The ring tilts forward. Move the strap so it sits exactly at the back center, and sew it to two rounds instead of one.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay it flat on a towel to dry. Smooth out the scales while it’s damp.
Final Notes
Each stage builds on the one before:
– The 36 sc bottom band gives a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) opening.
– One conversion round brings the count to 48 sc, which is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat.
– 12 tiers of 8 scales add about 12 in (30.5 cm) of height.
– The 48 sc top band brings the holder to 15 in (38.1 cm).
– The 3 in (7.6 cm) ring brings the hanging length to about 18.5 in (47.0 cm).
If you check your size at each stage, the finished holder will match.
Happy crocheting!