Dark green crocheted pouch with tan front pocket, holding a smartphone, styled with brown sunglasses and keys on beige linen.

Evergreen Pocket Wall Basket Crochet Pattern

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The Evergreen Pocket Wall Basket is a small hanging catch-all for an entryway, desk or bedside. It is a deep forest-green basket in firm single crochet, with a tan pocket on the front. The back rises into a tapered tab and a sturdy loop, so it hangs from a single hook.

Sunglasses, a phone or mail go in the main basket. Keys or earbuds fit in the front pocket. The style is simple and modern, and the dense fabric holds its shape without any lining or stiffener.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished basket measures about 7.4 in (18.8 cm) wide when flattened, about 8 in (20.3 cm) tall at the front and about 13 in (33.0 cm) tall including the tab and loop.

Construction is straightforward. You crochet an oval base, then work the body in joined rounds with no increases. Next you work the back tab flat in rows and edge the whole top in one round. A hanging loop goes on last. The pocket is a separate small rectangle with rounded bottom corners and its own edging, which you sew onto the front.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 7.4 in (18.8 cm) wide flat × 13 in (33.0 cm) tall overall
  • Front height: about 8 in (20.3 cm)
  • Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: Aran / worsted (CYC 4)
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 1 basket body + 1 appliqué pocket, finished as a single item
  • Layout: Pocket centered on the front, 1 in (2.5 cm) above the bottom fold
  • Pocket size before border: 4.6 in × 3.75 in (11.7 cm × 9.5 cm)
  • Pocket size after border: 5 in × 4.25 in (12.7 cm × 10.8 cm)
  • Border depth: 1 round of sc, about 0.25 in (0.6 cm)

Materials

Pick a smooth, firm yarn. Cotton, a cotton blend or a sturdy acrylic will give clear stitches and a basket that keeps its shape. Avoid fuzzy or very soft yarns, because they make the basket slump. These amounts are for a yarn of about 180 m per 100 g.

  • Color A – Forest Green: 75 g / 135 m (148 yd)
  • Color B – Tan / Camel: 20 g / 36 m (39 yd)

Both quantities include a margin of about 15% for your gauge swatch and the sewing tails.

Tools

  • 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
  • 4 stitch markers
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Rust-proof pins
  • Blocking mat or towel

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together: (insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop) twice, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • rnd(s) – round(s)
  • RS – right side

Joined rounds: At the end of each round, sl st to the first sc. Then ch 1 (this ch does not count as a stitch) and work the first sc of the next round into the same stitch as the join.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 14 sc × 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc with a 5.0 mm hook. This gives 3.5 sts and 4 rows per inch.

The base works as your test piece. Make it first and measure it before you go on to the body.

  • After Base Rnd 6 (52 sts): The oval measures about 6 in × 3 in (15.2 cm × 7.6 cm).
  • After the body: The circumference is about 14.9 in (37.8 cm). Flattened, the basket is 7.4 in (18.8 cm) wide, and the body is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall above the base.
  • After the tab: The tab rises 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the front rim.
  • Pocket before border: 4.6 in × 3.75 in (11.7 cm × 9.5 cm).

If your base is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it is too small, go up 0.5 mm. Don’t add or skip stitches to fix the size, because the tab placement and border counts depend on exactly 52 sts.

Tan crochet pouch with silver keyring attached, displayed on a dark green crocheted tote bag on a wooden surface.

Basket Base (Color A)

Ch 11.

Rnd 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in the next 8 ch. Work 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate the work and, working into the free loops on the other side, sc in the next 8 ch. Work 2 sc in the last ch (the same ch as the first sc). Join. (22 sts)

The round is made of 1 end st, 8 side sts, 3 end sts, 8 side sts and 2 end sts. The 8-stitch straight sections stay the same on every base round. Only the curved ends grow.

Rnd 2: Inc in the first st, sc 8, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 8, inc in each of the last 2 sts. Join. (28 sts)

Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) once, sc 8, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, sc 8, (sc 1, inc) twice. Join. (34 sts)

Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) once, sc 8, (sc 2, inc) 3 times, sc 8, (sc 2, inc) twice. Join. (40 sts)

Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) once, sc 8, (sc 3, inc) 3 times, sc 8, (sc 3, inc) twice. Join. (46 sts)

Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) once, sc 8, (sc 4, inc) 3 times, sc 8, (sc 4, inc) twice. Join. (52 sts)

In Rnd 6, sts 7–14 are one straight side and sts 33–40 are the other. Choose sts 7–14 as the back. Place markers in st 3 and st 18. These 16 stitches (sts 3–18) will become the back tab, centered between sts 10 and 11.

Basket Body (Color A)

Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. Join. (52 sts)

Because there are no increases, the edge starts to cup upward. This makes the rounded bottom you see on the finished basket.

Rnds 8–32: Sc in each st around. Join. (52 sts each round)

Move the markers up every few rounds so they stay above sts 3 and 18. Fold the basket flat now and then to check that the joins stay at one side edge and that the marked stitches stay centered on the back.

Checkpoint: The body measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) from the base edge to the rim, and the basket is 7.4 in (18.8 cm) wide when flattened. Don’t fasten off. Sl st across to the marked st 3.

Back Tab (Color A, Worked in Rows)

You now work back and forth over the 16 marked stitches only. The other 36 stitches stay unworked and become the front rim.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in st 3 and in each st through st 18. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (16 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 10, sc2tog. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 6, sc2tog. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 12: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog. Turn. (4 sts)

Rows 13–14: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (4 sts each row)

The tab now has 14 rows, which equals 3.5 in (8.9 cm). Rows 1–12 make the taper, and Rows 13–14 make a short strap 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide. Don’t fasten off. Go straight on to the border.

Pocket (Color B, Worked in Rows)

Ch 13.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, inc, sc 10, inc. Turn. (14 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, inc, sc 12, inc. Turn. (16 sts)

Rows 2 and 3 widen the bottom gradually, which gives the pocket its rounded lower corners.

Rows 4–15: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (16 sts each row)

Checkpoint: The pocket measures 4.6 in × 3.75 in (11.7 cm × 9.5 cm). Don’t fasten off. Go on to the pocket border.

Border

Border gauge: The border uses the same gauge as the main fabric, 3.5 sc per inch. Along row ends, work 1 sc per sc row. Each sc row is about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) tall, close to the width of one sc, so this keeps the edges flat.

Basket Rim Edging (Color A, 1 round)

Continuing from Row 14 of the tab, ch 1 and turn the work so you can work down the side edge of the tab.

  • Left tab side: Work 1 sc in each row end, down to the rim. (14 sc)
  • Front rim: Work 1 sc in each of the 36 unworked body sts. (36 sc)
  • Right tab side: Work 1 sc in each row end, up to the top. (14 sc)
  • Strap top: Work 1 sc in each of the 4 sts of Row 14. (4 sc)

Sl st to the first sc. Total: 14 + 36 + 14 + 4 = 68 sts.

Why the math works: The body has 52 sts. The tab takes 16 of them, which leaves 36 for the front rim (52 − 16 = 36). Each side of the tab has 14 rows, so it gets 14 row-end sc. The top of the strap keeps its own 4 sts. No extra corner stitches are added. The angles where the tab meets the rim curve naturally, giving the soft sloped sides seen on the finished basket.

Hanging Loop (Color A)

Sl st into the first of the 4 strap-top sts. Ch 16, then sl st into the 4th strap-top st to form a loop. Ch 1 and turn. Work 20 sc into the ch-16 space, then sl st into the first strap-top st. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Use the tail to reinforce the base of the loop with a few hidden stitches, then weave it in.

The 20 sc pack tightly onto 16 ch, which makes a firm loop about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long that won’t stretch out of shape.

Pocket Edging (Color B, 1 round)

Continuing from Row 15, ch 1 and do not turn.

  • Top: 3 sc in the first st (corner), sc 14, 3 sc in the last st (corner). (20 sc. That is 16 sts worked 1 per existing st, plus 4 extra at the two corners.)
  • Left side: Work 1 sc in each row end. (15 sc)
  • Bottom: Work 1 sc in each free loop of the foundation chain. (12 sc)
  • Right side: Work 1 sc in each row end. (15 sc)

Sl st to the first sc. Total: 20 + 15 + 12 + 15 = 62 sts.

The top corner sts are counted once, inside the 20 top sc. The bottom corners get no extra stitches, so they stay rounded. The finished pocket measures 5 in × 4.25 in (12.7 cm × 10.8 cm). Fasten off, leaving an 18 in (45.7 cm) tail for sewing.

Attaching the Pocket

Flatten the basket with the tab at the back. Center the pocket on the front, with its bottom edge 1 in (2.5 cm) above the bottom fold. Its top edge should sit about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) below the front rim. Pin all four corners.

Using the tail and a tapestry needle, whipstitch through the outer loops of the pocket edging and into the body behind it. Sew down one side, across the bottom and up the other side. Leave the top open.

Sew 1 stitch per edging sc. Keep your tension even, so the pocket lies flat without puckering the basket. Reach inside the basket now and then to make sure you haven’t caught the back wall.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all remaining ends on the inside of the basket.
  2. Spritz the basket lightly with water until it is damp, not soaked.
  3. Stuff it firmly with a towel or a small box so it forms an even oval.
  4. Shape the base into a smooth curve and straighten the front rim.
  5. Lay the tab flat and pin it at 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with the strap centered.
  6. Smooth the pocket flat and square its top corners with your fingers.
  7. Let it dry completely, then remove the stuffing.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • [ ] The base has 52 sts and measures about 6 in × 3 in (15.2 cm × 7.6 cm).
  • [ ] The body is 52 sts on every round and 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall.
  • [ ] The tab is centered on the back, with the round joins at a side edge.
  • [ ] The tab tapers from 16 to 4 sts and is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
  • [ ] The rim edging has 68 sts and lies flat.
  • [ ] The loop is firm and reinforced at its base.
  • [ ] The pocket edging has 62 sts and the pocket measures 5 in × 4.25 in (12.7 cm × 10.8 cm).
  • [ ] The pocket is centered, sewn on three sides and open at the top.
  • [ ] All ends are hidden on the inside.

Troubleshooting

  • The base ruffles. Your tension is too loose, or extra increases have crept in. Recount each base round against the counts above.
  • The base cups too early. You’ve missed an increase. Check that each end gets its full set of increases.
  • The tab is off-center. The round joins have drifted. Re-mark sts 3–18 by folding the basket flat and centering the 16 sts on the back.
  • The front rim waves. You’ve worked more than 1 sc per stitch. Rework it with exactly 36 sc.
  • The pocket sides pucker. Your sewing is too tight. Loosen the whipstitch and work 1 stitch per edging sc.
  • The basket slumps. The yarn is too soft, or the hook is too large. Go down a hook size for a firmer fabric.

Care

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping it over a towel. Don’t tumble dry, because heat can soften the fabric and stretch the loop.

Forest green crocheted wall organizer with two pockets holding a phone and sunglasses, hung on cream wall beside a plant.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is simple. A 52-st base of 6 in × 3 in (15.2 cm × 7.6 cm) becomes a body 7.4 in (18.8 cm) wide and 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall. A 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tab and a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) loop bring the total height to about 13 in (33.0 cm). A 68-st rim edging finishes the top. On the front, a 16-st pocket of 4.6 in × 3.75 in (11.7 cm × 9.5 cm) gets a 62-st edging, bringing it to 5 in × 4.25 in (12.7 cm × 10.8 cm). Check each step against these numbers and your basket will hang neat and level.

Happy crocheting!

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