The Lilac Lattice Hanging Toilet Paper Holder gives you a pretty way to store three spare rolls. It hangs from a wooden ring, so it fits on a door, a wall hook or the side of a cabinet. Three oval pockets with diamond-mesh walls sit stacked down a solid backing panel, and each one holds a standard roll upright.
The whole piece uses one soft lilac color. A cotton yarn is best because it keeps the net firm and stands up to humidity. Solid single-crochet bands frame the open diamonds at the bottom and top of each pocket, so the lace keeps its shape when a roll is inside.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished panel measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide by 23.75 in (60.3 cm) long. With the tab and ring, the holder hangs about 27 in (68.6 cm) long. Each pocket is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
You’ll work the panel in rows from the bottom up, taper the top and finish with a narrow tab. Next, crochet three pockets in the round, starting from an oval base. A one-pass single-crochet border tidies the panel edges. Last, you’ll sew the pockets on stitch-to-stitch and fold the tab around the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in × 23.75 in (15.2 cm × 60.3 cm) panel; about 27 in (68.6 cm) total hanging length
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 panel, 3 pockets)
- Layout: 3 pockets stacked vertically on 1 panel
- Panel size before border: 5.5 in × about 23.5 in (14.0 cm × 59.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), one single-crochet pass
- Pocket size: base about 5.25 in × 1.75 in (13.3 cm × 4.4 cm); height about 3.5 in (8.9 cm); rim 12 in (30.5 cm) around
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton. It shows the diamond mesh clearly and won’t stretch out under the weight of the rolls. Acrylic also works, but the pockets will be softer.
- Lilac: 200 g, about 340 m (372 yd)
This amount includes a safety margin of roughly 25% for your gauge swatch and sewing tails.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across
- Tapestry needle
- 8 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease)
- sl st – slip stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- sk – skip
- rnd – round
Special stitch – mesh loop: ch 5, then sc in the next ch-5 sp (or in the stitch named). Each mesh loop forms one side of a diamond.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc × 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in rows. That works out to 4 sc and 4.5 rows per inch.
Before you start the panel, make one test pocket. It uses every stitch in this pattern and shows quickly whether your tension suits the panel.
Checkpoints:
- Pocket base after Rnd 4: 5.25 in × 1.75 in (13.3 cm × 4.4 cm), with 48 sts.
- Pocket solid band (Rnds 5–8): about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
- Pocket mesh (Rnds 9–12): about 2 in (5.1 cm) tall, unstretched.
- Finished pocket: about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with a rim of 12 in (30.5 cm) around.
- Panel width at Row 10: 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
- Panel length at Row 45: 10 in (25.4 cm).
- Panel length at Row 90: 20 in (50.8 cm).
If your work is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Keep your stitch counts the same, because the pocket rim (24 back stitches) must match the bordered panel width (24 stitches).
Backing Panel
Ch 23.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (22 sc)
Rows 2–90: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st across. Turn. (22 sc)
Checkpoint: The panel should measure 5.5 in × 20 in (14.0 cm × 50.8 cm).
Taper
Row 91: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 18 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (20 sc)
Row 92: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (20 sc)
Rows 93–106: Repeat Rows 91–92 seven more times. Each repeat removes 2 sts, so the counts go 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6. After Row 106 you have 6 sc.
The taper is 16 rows, about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, and its edges slope evenly.
Tab
Rows 107–116: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (6 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The tab measures about 1.5 in × 2.25 in (3.8 cm × 5.7 cm).
Pocket (Make 3)
Work in continuous joined rounds. At the end of each round, sl st to the first st, then ch 1 to begin the next round. The ch 1 does not count as a st.
Oval Base
Ch 15.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 12 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate the work and, along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc in next 12 ch, then 2 sc in the first ch (it already holds 1 sc). Join. (30 sc: 12 along each long side + 3 at each end)
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each of the 3 end sts at both ends, and 1 sc in each of the 12 side sts. Join. (36 sc: 12 + 6 + 12 + 6)
Rnd 3: At each end, work [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Work 1 sc in each side st. Join. (42 sc: 12 + 9 + 12 + 9)
Rnd 4: At each end, work [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. Work 1 sc in each side st. Join. (48 sc: 12 + 12 + 12 + 12)
Checkpoint: The base should lie flat and measure 5.25 in × 1.75 in (13.3 cm × 4.4 cm).
Solid Band
Rnd 5: Sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (48 sc)
The unused front loops form a ridge that turns the wall upward.
Rnds 6–8: Sc in each st around. Join. (48 sc)
Diamond Mesh
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 14 more times. Then ch 5, sk the last 2 sts and sl st to the first sc. (16 mesh loops)
The math is 48 sts ÷ 3 sts per repeat = 16 loops.
Rnds 10–12: Sl st in each of the first 3 ch of the next loop to reach its center. Ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp; repeat from * 14 more times. Then ch 5 and sl st to the first sc. (16 loops)
Each round’s sc lands in the center of the loops below, which is what forms the diamonds.
Checkpoint: The mesh section should be about 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
Rim
Rnd 13 (conversion round): Ch 1, work 3 sc in each ch-5 sp around. Join. (16 sps × 3 sc = 48 sc)
Rnds 14–15: Sc in each st around. Join. (48 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: The pocket should be about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with a rim of 12 in (30.5 cm) around.
Make All Pieces
All pieces are lilac:
- Panel: 1
- Pockets: 3
Layout (front view, top to bottom):
[ ring ]
[ tab ]
/ taper \
| (plain) | Rows 79–90
|[POCKET 3]| rim on Row 78
| (gap) |
|[POCKET 2]| rim on Row 50
| (gap) |
|[POCKET 1]| rim on Row 22
| (plain) | Rows 1–5
---------
The pocket rims are 28 rows apart, about 6.25 in (15.9 cm). That leaves a gap of about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) between pockets, so each roll can stick out above its rim.
Border (Backing Panel)
Border gauge: The border uses the same 4 sc per inch across stitches and 1 sc per row-end along the sides. A sc row-end is close to a sc width at this gauge, so the edges stay flat.
Hold the panel with the right side facing. Join the yarn at the right-hand edge of Row 106, where the taper meets the tab. You’ll work one pass down the right side, across the bottom and up the left side. The tab stays unbordered.
Border pass:
- Right taper: 1 sc in each row-end of Rows 106–91. (16 sc)
- Right side: 1 sc in each row-end of Rows 90–2. (89 sc)
- Bottom edge: Working into the free loops of the foundation chain (the bottom of Row 1), put 3 sc in the first st, 1 sc in each of the next 20 sts and 3 sc in the last st. (26 sc = 22 worked one per stitch + 4 extra corner sc)
- Left side: 1 sc in each row-end of Rows 2–90. (89 sc)
- Left taper: 1 sc in each row-end of Rows 91–106. (16 sc)
Total: 16 + 89 + 26 + 89 + 16 = 236 sc. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: The two corner groups absorb the Row 1 row-ends, so the bottom row isn’t covered twice. The border adds 1 st on each side, so the width goes from 22 + 2 = 24 sts, or 6 in (15.2 cm). At the bottom it adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm), bringing the length from about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) to 23.75 in (60.3 cm).
Joining
Method: Whipstitch the pockets on with the tapestry needle, using the yarn tails.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
- Fold a pocket flat and mark its two side points, which are the center stitches at each end of the oval. This splits the rim into a 24-st front and a 24-st back.
- Hold the back half of the rim against Row 22 of the panel. Line up the 24 back rim sts with the 24 sts across that row: 22 panel sts plus 1 border st at each side. That’s an exact 1:1 match.
- Whipstitch through both loops of each rim st and the matching panel st.
- Bottom anchor: Find the 12 straight back sts of the Rnd 5 ridge. Tack them to the 12 center sts of Row 6 (panel sts 6–17). The back wall then lies flat and the base won’t swing.
- Repeat for the second pocket with its rim on Row 50 and its anchor on Row 34. For the third pocket, put the rim on Row 78 and the anchor on Row 62.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug enough to close the gap but not so tight that it puckers the panel. Use the same tension on all three pockets so the rims stay straight and parallel.
Ring: Fold the tab toward the back of the panel over the wooden ring. Whipstitch Row 116 to the back of Row 106, matching 6 sts to 6 sts.
Checkpoint: The hanging length should be about 27 in (68.6 cm), and the panel should stay 6 in (15.2 cm) wide at each pocket.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends along stitches of the same color.
- Lightly mist the whole piece with water until it’s damp.
- Lay it face up on a blocking mat.
- Pin the panel to 6 in × 23.75 in (15.2 cm × 60.3 cm), keeping the sides straight and the taper symmetrical.
- Stuff each pocket with a roll wrapped in a plastic bag. This opens the diamonds evenly and sets the oval shape.
- Let it dry completely, at least 24 hours, before you remove the pins and rolls.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The panel is 24 sts wide after the border and measures 6 in (15.2 cm).
- Each pocket has 48 sts in the rim and 16 even diamonds per round.
- All three rims sit on Rows 22, 50 and 78, level with each other.
- The back of each rim is sewn 1:1 across all 24 sts, with no gaps.
- Both edges of the taper slope evenly from 22 down to 6 sts.
- The tab is sewn securely around the ring.
- All ends are woven in and hidden.
- Each pocket holds a roll upright without sagging.
Troubleshooting
- The pocket base curls into a bowl: You added too few increases or your tension is tight. Check that you have 48 sts after Rnd 4, or go up a hook size.
- The base ruffles: You have too many stitches or loose tension. Recount each round against the pattern.
- The diamonds slant in a spiral: Make sure you sl st to the center of the loop before each mesh round.
- The rim doesn’t match the panel width: Check that you have 48 rim sts and 24 bordered panel sts. If the gauge is slightly off, ease the difference evenly along the seam.
- The panel edges are wavy: Check the border count of 1 sc per row-end. Rip back and rework if you added extra stitches.
- The pockets sag forward: Add the bottom anchor or tighten it.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water gently and dry flat with a roll inside each pocket to keep the shape. Don’t tumble dry.
Final Notes
Everything in this pattern follows one measurement chain. A gauge of 16 sc × 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a panel 22 sts wide, which is 5.5 in (14.0 cm). The border brings it to 24 sts, or 6 in (15.2 cm). Each pocket’s 48-st rim splits into a 24-st back that matches that width stitch for stitch. Pockets sewn on Rows 22, 50 and 78 give even spacing, and the taper and tab finish the holder at about 27 in (68.6 cm) of hanging length. Check your swatch first, and the rest of the pieces will fit together.
Happy crocheting!