Plastic grocery bags pile up fast, and this holder gives them a cheerful place to live. The Berry Patch Strawberry is a hollow, teardrop-shaped bag holder. Its coral body is covered in raised popcorn “seeds” and topped with a sage-green leaf collar. You stuff bags in through the wide top and pull them out one at a time through the small bottom opening.
The colors are classic strawberry: warm coral-pink for the berry and soft sage green for the leaves and strap. It also looks lovely in lavender with the same green, which makes a blackberry-style version. The look is farmhouse and playful, and it suits a kitchen, laundry room or pantry door.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 8 in (20.3 cm) wide when flat at its widest point and 11 in (27.9 cm) tall from the bottom opening to the top of the green rim. The strap adds a drop of about 7 in (17.8 cm).
The construction is simple. You work the body bottom-up in joined rounds of single crochet, increasing to the widest point, working popcorn rounds every fourth round, then decreasing slightly toward the top. You add a green rim in the back loops, work a strap across the opening, and then crochet eight leaves into the front loops that were left free under the rim. Everything is worked onto the body, so there is nothing to sew together.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide flat × 11 in (27.9 cm) tall, plus a 7 in (17.8 cm) strap drop
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (body, rim, leaves and strap all worked as one piece)
- Layout: One hollow tube, open at both ends
- Bottom opening: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide flat
- Size before border (end of coral body): 7 in (17.8 cm) wide flat at the top, 10.25 in (26.0 cm) tall
- Border depth: Green rim 0.75 in (1.9 cm); leaves 2 in (5.1 cm) long
Materials
Cotton or a cotton blend works best. It shows the popcorn stitches crisply, holds its shape when the holder is stuffed full, and survives washing. Choose a smooth worsted yarn with no halo so the seeds stay well defined.
- Coral pink (main color, MC): 110 g / about 180 m (197 yd)
- Sage green (contrast color, CC): 35 g / about 57 m (62 yd)
- Optional variation: Swap the coral for lavender (same amount)
These amounts include a margin of about 15% for swatching and small gauge differences.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- Locking stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Rust-proof pins and a spray bottle for blocking
- Measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- sc3tog – single crochet 3 together
- BLO / FLO – back loop only / front loop only
- pc – popcorn
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- Rnd – round
Popcorn (pc): Work 5 dc in the same stitch. Take your hook out of the working loop. Insert the hook from front to back into the top of the first dc of the group, pick up the dropped loop and pull it through. Do not chain to close. A popcorn counts as 1 stitch. Because you work it with the right side facing, it pops toward the outside of the holder.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
That works out to 4 stitches and 4.5 rounds per inch (2.5 cm). Popcorn rounds sit at about the same height as sc rounds.
Test first: Work Rnds 1–8 and measure before you continue. If you’re off at this stage, it will throw off every measurement after it.
Checkpoints (laid flat):
- After Rnd 3: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide
- After Rnd 22: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide, about 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
- After Rnd 37: still 8 in (20.3 cm) wide, about 8.25 in (21.0 cm) tall
- After Rnd 46: 7 in (17.8 cm) wide at the top edge, about 10.25 in (26.0 cm) tall
- After Rnd 49: about 11 in (27.9 cm) tall
Too big? Go down to a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook. Too small? Go up to a 5.5 mm (US I-9) hook. Keep the fabric firm. If the background is loose, the bags will poke through the gaps.
Body
Work in joined rounds with the right side always facing. Do not turn. Each round starts with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch, and ends with a sl st to the first sc. Put your marker in the first stitch of each round.
With MC, ch 24 and sl st to the first ch to make a ring. Be careful not to twist the chain.
Bottom band
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to join. (24 sts)
Rnds 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (24 sts)
These three plain rounds make the narrow band around the bottom opening.
Widening section
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (28 sts)
Rnd 5 (popcorn round A): Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, pc in next st 7 times. (28 sts: 21 sc + 7 pc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (32 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (32 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 9 (popcorn round B): Ch 1, sc in next st, pc in next st, sc in next 2 sts 9 times. (36 sts: 27 sc + 9 pc)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (40 sts)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (40 sts)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (44 sts)
Rnd 13 (A): Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, pc in next st 11 times. (44 sts: 33 sc + 11 pc)
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (48 sts)
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (52 sts)
Rnd 17 (B): Ch 1, sc in next st, pc in next st, sc in next 2 sts 13 times. (52 sts: 39 sc + 13 pc)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (56 sts)
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (56 sts)
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (60 sts)
Rnd 21 (A): Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, pc in next st 15 times. (60 sts: 45 sc + 15 pc)
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st 4 times. (64 sts)
Checkpoint: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide flat. 64 stitches ÷ 4 per inch = 16 in (40.6 cm) around, which is 8 in (20.3 cm) when flattened.
In each popcorn round, sc into the top of each popcorn just as you would into any other stitch. On the widening rounds, the A/B stagger shifts a little as the stitch count grows. That’s expected, and it gives the seeds a natural, scattered look.
Straight section
Rnds 23–24: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (64 sts)
Rnd 25 (B): Ch 1, sc in next st, pc in next st, sc in next 2 sts 16 times. (64 sts: 48 sc + 16 pc)
Rnds 26–28: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (64 sts)
Rnd 29 (A): Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, pc in next st 16 times. (64 sts: 48 sc + 16 pc)
Rnds 30–32: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (64 sts)
Rnd 33 (B): As Rnd 25. (64 sts)
Rnds 34–36: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (64 sts)
Rnd 37 (A): As Rnd 29. (64 sts)
In this section the stitch count stays the same, so each popcorn lands exactly halfway between the two popcorns in the popcorn round before it.
Shoulder (top shaping)
Rnd 38: Ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, sc2tog 4 times. (60 sts)
Rnd 39: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (60 sts)
Rnd 40: Ch 1, sc in next 13 sts, sc2tog 4 times. (56 sts)
Rnd 41 (B): Ch 1, sc in next st, pc in next st, sc in next 2 sts 14 times. (56 sts: 42 sc + 14 pc)
Rnds 42–46: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (56 sts)
Fasten off MC. The body has 10 popcorn rounds and 133 popcorns in total.
Checkpoint: the top edge is 7 in (17.8 cm) wide flat (56 ÷ 4 = 14 in / 35.6 cm around), and the body is about 10.25 in (26.0 cm) tall.
Border: Green Rim, Leaf Collar and Strap
Border gauge: The rim uses the same sc gauge as the body, 4 sts per inch (2.5 cm). Its 56 stitches measure 14 in (35.6 cm) around, or 7 in (17.8 cm) on each side when flat. Each flat side therefore has 28 stitches and 4 leaves.
Rim
Rnd 47: Join CC in BLO of any st of Rnd 46. Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to join. (56 sts)
Rnds 48–49: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to join. (56 sts)
Working Rnd 47 in the back loops leaves all 56 front loops of Rnd 46 free. You’ll use them for the leaves. The rim is about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep.
Strap
Don’t fasten off. The stitch you joined into at the end of Rnd 49 is st 1.
Row 1: Ch 57. Skip the next 27 sts and sl st into st 29 of Rnd 49. That stitch is directly across the opening, 28 sts from st 1.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each ch across (57 sc), then sl st into st 2 of Rnd 49. Fasten off.
The strap is about 14.25 in (36.2 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide. It hangs as two strands meeting at the hook, each with a drop of about 7 in (17.8 cm).
Leaves (8)
Hold the holder upside down with the free front loops of Rnd 46 facing you. Join CC in any free front loop.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in FLO of the next 7 sts. (7 sts)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (7 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. (5 sts)
Rows 5–6: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog. (3 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc3tog. (1 st, the leaf tip)
Edge: Without turning, ch 1, then work 8 sc evenly down the side edge of the leaf, one in the end of each row from Row 8 to Row 1. You are now at the base, right next to the next free front loop.
Repeat Rows 1–9 and the edge 7 more times, starting each new leaf in the next unworked front loop.
After the eighth leaf, sl st to the first sc of the first leaf and fasten off.
Optional vein: With CC, surface sl st from the base of each leaf to its tip, up the center.
Why the math works: 8 leaves × 7 front loops = 56, which uses every front loop of Rnd 46 exactly once. Each leaf is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide at the base (7 sts ÷ 4) and 2 in (5.1 cm) long (9 rows ÷ 4.5). The strap anchors 28 stitches apart, so it splits the rim into two equal 7 in (17.8 cm) halves, with 4 leaves on each side.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the inside of the body.
- Stuff the holder firmly with a rolled towel or plastic bags so it takes its teardrop shape.
- Spritz it evenly with water until damp but not soaked.
- Fold the leaves down over the coral body. Pin each tip so it points down and slightly outward.
- Ease the bottom band into a neat round opening, 3 in (7.6 cm) wide flat.
- Check that it is 8 in (20.3 cm) wide at the widest point and 11 in (27.9 cm) tall.
- Let it dry completely, usually 24 hours, then remove the pins and stuffing.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Bottom opening is 3 in (7.6 cm) wide flat and lets one bag slide out
- Widest point is 8 in (20.3 cm) wide flat
- Body is 10.25 in (26.0 cm) tall before the rim, 11 in (27.9 cm) after
- All 133 popcorns pop to the outside
- Rim has 56 stitches and sits flat without ruffling
- 8 leaves, evenly spaced, all pointing down
- Strap is attached at opposite points and hangs level
- All ends are woven in on the inside
Troubleshooting
Popcorns pop inward: You’re working with the wrong side facing. Never turn between rounds.
Body twists in a spiral: Join each round with a sl st and start every round with ch 1. Don’t work in continuous spirals.
Gaps around the popcorns: Tighten the sc on either side of each popcorn, or go down a hook size.
Rim ruffles: Your rim tension is looser than the body’s. Rework the rim with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.
Leaves curl up: Block them pinned down. Adding the surface vein also helps them lie flat.
Strap stretches: Use cotton yarn, which stretches less, or add a Row 3 of sl sts along the strap.
Bags fall out too easily: Work one extra plain round at the bottom band with a smaller hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with the holder stuffed back into shape. Don’t tumble dry.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. Gauge is 4 stitches and 4.5 rounds per inch (2.5 cm). The 24-stitch bottom band gives a 3 in (7.6 cm) opening. Increasing to 64 stitches gives an 8 in (20.3 cm) widest point. Decreasing to 56 stitches gives a 7 in (17.8 cm) top. That 56-stitch rim divides evenly into 8 leaves of 7 stitches and a strap anchored 28 stitches apart. If you check the size at each checkpoint, the finished holder will measure 8 × 11 in (20.3 × 27.9 cm).
Happy crocheting!