Plastic bags tend to pile up in kitchen drawers. This holder gives them a tidy home and adds a bit of beach-cottage color to the wall. You push bags in at the wide top and pull them out one at a time through the narrow bottom.
The design alternates cream rounds of fan-shaped shells with wavy teal bands. Each teal band follows the curve of the shells below it, which gives the soft ocean-wave look. A coral starfish appliqué sits on the front, and a slim teal strap hangs the holder from a hook or cabinet knob.
The holder measures 14.5 in (36.8 cm) long, 6.75 in (17.1 cm) across the top and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across the bottom opening, measured flat. All instructions use US crochet terms.
You work the body bottom-up in joined rounds, starting at the dispensing opening. You add stitches at three points to create the taper, finish with a teal top rim, and then add the strap and the starfish.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (flat): 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide at the top, 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide at the bottom, 14.5 in (36.8 cm) long
- Strap: 12 in (30.5 cm) long, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide; hangs about 5 in (12.7 cm) above the rim
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 1 body (strap worked on), plus 1 starfish appliqué and 1 small center nub
- Layout: Single tapered tube, worked in joined rounds without turning
- Body size before border: 13.5 in (34.3 cm) long
- Border depth: 0.8 in (2.0 cm) top rim; 0.2 in (0.5 cm) bottom edge round
Materials
Use a smooth cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Cotton holds its shape, stays stiff enough to keep the opening round, and stands up to frequent handling. Acrylic also works, but the tube will be softer.
- Teal: 40 g / 70 m
- Cream: 25 g / 45 m
- Coral: 8 g / 15 m
These quantities include a margin of about 20% for your gauge swatch and any small differences in tension.
Tools:
– 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– 4 stitch markers
– Measuring tape
– Rust-proof pins
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd – round
- MR – magic ring
Special stitch – Shell: work 5 dc in the same stitch.
Round notes: Each round starts with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch. Join each round with a sl st to the first st. To change color, use the new color to work the joining sl st of the previous round.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 20 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round. One stripe set (1 shell round plus 2 teal rounds) measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall.
Before starting, work the Bottom Band as your test piece. It doubles as a gauge swatch, and you can keep going if it measures correctly.
Checkpoints (measured flat, across a teal round):
– After the Bottom Band (30 to 36 sts): 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, 1 in (2.5 cm) tall
– After Set 3: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall
– After Set 6 (42 to 48 sts): 6 in (15.2 cm) wide, 8.5 in (21.6 cm) tall
– After Set 8 (48 to 54 sts): 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide, 11 in (27.9 cm) tall
– After Set 10: 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide, 13.5 in (34.3 cm) tall
– After the top rim: 14.3 in (36.3 cm) tall
– After the bottom edge round: 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall
If your band is too wide, go down half a hook size. If it is too narrow, go up half a size. Shell rounds naturally flare a little, so always measure across a teal round.
Bottom Band (Dispensing Opening)
With teal, ch 30. Join with a sl st to the first ch, taking care not to twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 3 (growth): Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 5 more times, join. (36 sts)
Rnds 4–5: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (36 sts)
Place a marker at the joining point. This is the side of the holder, and every later join should line up here. The band now measures 1 in (2.5 cm) tall and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when flat.
Body: Shell and Wave Stripes
The body has 10 stripe sets. Each set is worked as follows.
Shell Rnd (cream): Ch 1, sc in the joining st, sk 2 sts, Shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * around, omitting the final sc. Join to the first sc.
Each repeat uses 6 stitches from the round below and makes 6 new stitches (1 sc + 5 dc). The stitch count therefore stays the same. On 36 sts you get 6 shells.
Teal Rnd A: Ch 1, sc in each of the 5 dc of the shell, sc in the next sc; repeat around, join. You get 6 sts per repeat, so the count does not change.
Because the sc between shells sits lower than the shell tops, this round naturally dips and rises. That creates the wave.
Teal Rnd B: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. This keeps the stitch count unchanged unless an increase is given below.
To offset each new set of shells from the set below, begin each Shell Rnd in the st that sits above the center (3rd) dc of a shell. Each new shell will then land above a valley. After an increase round the repeats shift a little. That is expected and does not affect the look.
Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the tube at the join. Cream rests for 2 rounds and teal rests for 1 round.
Sets 1–2: Work the Shell Rnd, Teal Rnd A and Teal Rnd B. (36 sts, 6 shells)
Set 3: Work the Shell Rnd and Teal Rnd A. (36 sts)
– Teal Rnd B, conversion: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. That is 36 sts worked one per stitch, plus 6 added = 42 sts.
Sets 4–5: Work all 3 rounds as written. (42 sts, 7 shells)
Set 6: Work the Shell Rnd and Teal Rnd A. (42 sts)
– Teal Rnd B, conversion: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. That is 42 + 6 added = 48 sts.
Set 7: Work all 3 rounds as written. (48 sts, 8 shells)
Set 8: Work the Shell Rnd and Teal Rnd A. (48 sts)
– Teal Rnd B, conversion: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat 6 times, join. That is 48 + 6 added = 54 sts.
Sets 9–10: Work all 3 rounds as written. (54 sts, 9 shells)
Fasten off cream. Keep teal attached. The body now measures 13.5 in (34.3 cm) tall and 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide when flat.
Starfish Appliqué
Use coral.
Rnd 1: In the MR, work 10 sc, join. (10 sts)
Rnd 2 (growth): Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat 5 times, join. (15 sts)
Rnd 3 (arms): Ch 8. Working back along the chain, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook: sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 3 ch (7 sts). Sk next 2 sts of Rnd 2, sl st in next st; repeat from * 4 more times.
This gives 5 arms. Each arm uses 3 sts of Rnd 2 (5 × 3 = 15), so the arms are evenly spaced. Because the stitches get shorter toward the tip, each arm tapers.
Rnd 4 (outline): For each arm: work 7 sc up the free loops of the chain, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the tip, then 7 sc down the tops of the arm stitches, and sl st into the sl st between arms. That makes 16 sc and 1 ch per arm, for 80 sc in total. This round gives the raised, ridged edge.
Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail. The starfish measures about 4 in (10.2 cm) from tip to tip.
Center nub: With coral, work 6 sc in a MR and pull it tight to form a small dome. Fasten off and sew the nub to the center of the starfish.
Border: Top Rim and Bottom Edge
Border gauge: same as the body, 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). The border has no increases, so the opening walls stay straight.
Top rim (teal), Rnds 1–4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. You get 54 sts each round: 27 sts on each flattened side.
Rnds 1–4 measure 0.8 in (2.0 cm). Do not fasten off.
Strap:
- Ch 1 and sc in the first 3 sts of the round, at the side marker.
- Rows 2–54: Turn, ch 1, sc in each of 3 sts.
- The strap now measures 12 in (30.5 cm). Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
- Count 27 sts around from the strap start and sew the strap end over sts 28–30, which are directly opposite.
- Check that the strap is not twisted before sewing.
Bottom edge (teal): Turn the holder upside down and join teal at the side marker on the foundation chain. Ch 1 and sc in each of the 30 free chain loops, then join. You get 30 sts: 15 on each flattened side.
This round covers the foundation chain and adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm).
Why the math works: 54 is 9 repeats × 6 sts, and 27 + 27 = 54. The strap ends are placed exactly 27 sts apart, so they sit on opposite sides. The bottom edge works one sc per foundation chain, so it adds no width. That keeps the opening at 3.75 in (9.5 cm) flat.
Attach the starfish: Center it on the front, halfway between the strap ends and about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) below the top edge. Pin it, then whipstitch around the outline with the coral tail. Keep your stitches on the outer face only, and do not stitch the tube closed.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the inside, following stitches of the same color.
- Lightly dampen the holder with a spray bottle.
- Roll a hand towel into a cone and slide it inside so the tube takes its tapered shape.
- Smooth the teal waves so each one follows its shell row evenly.
- Pin the starfish arms flat and gently pull each tip into a point.
- Check the flat widths: 6.75 in (17.1 cm) at the top and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) at the bottom.
- Let it dry completely before removing the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Top rim: 54 sts; bottom edge: 30 sts
- 10 cream shell rounds, with shell counts of 6, 7, 8 and 9 per section
- All color joins line up at the side
- No loose carried strands catch your hand inside
- Strap ends sit 27 sts apart and the strap is not twisted
- Starfish is centered on the front with all 5 arms flat
- Total length is 14.5 in (36.8 cm)
Troubleshooting
The tube spirals. You missed a joining sl st or added ch 1 as a stitch. Count each round.
The shells crowd or ripple. You skipped only 1 st on either side of a shell. Always skip 2.
The teal bands look flat instead of wavy. You worked dc or hdc into the valley sc. Use sc only.
The bottom opening is too loose for bags to stay in. Work one more round of sc2tog every 5th st (24 sts).
The starfish cups. Your Rnd 4 is too tight. Rework it with a larger hook.
The join seam is lumpy. Carry yarn more loosely, or cut and rejoin colors instead.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat over a rolled towel to dry. Avoid wringing, which can distort the shells and the taper.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is:
– Bottom Band: 30 to 36 sts, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide
– Three conversion rounds: 42, 48 and finally 54 sts, reaching 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide
– 10 sets at 1.25 in (3.2 cm) each, bringing the body to 13.5 in (34.3 cm)
– Top rim of 0.8 in (2.0 cm) and bottom edge of 0.2 in (0.5 cm), finishing at 14.5 in (36.8 cm)
Check each stage against these numbers and the holder will hang straight and tapered.
Happy crocheting!