This hanging organizer has two oval baskets stacked on one cord. Each basket has a firm single crochet base and a band of lacy starburst wheels around the middle. Smooth wooden dowels carry the weight, and one long cord holds both baskets and hangs from a single hook.
The sample is worked entirely in a deep plum cotton. The lace shows up best in a single solid color, and cotton holds its shape well when the baskets are loaded. Use them for toiletries, spare rolls, hair tools, or craft supplies.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures 11.25 in (28.6 cm) long, 4 in (10.2 cm) deep and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. The whole organizer hangs about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) from the hook point to the bottom of the lower basket.
You’ll work each basket in the round: an oval base, a solid lower wall, the starburst lace band, and a solid rim with two dowel tabs. Then you’ll make one slip stitch cord and bind it to the dowel ends with yarn wraps.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 11.25 in (28.6 cm) long × 4 in (10.2 cm) deep × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Overall hanging length: about 18.5 in (47.0 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 2 baskets and 1 cord, plus 2 wooden dowels
- Layout: 2 tiers stacked vertically, with dowels 9 in (22.9 cm) apart center to center
- Base size: 11.25 in × 4 in (28.6 × 10.2 cm), 108 stitches around
- Height before rim: about 3 in (7.6 cm), after Rnd 16
- Rim (border) depth: about 1 in (2.5 cm), Rnds 17–21
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend, about 170 m per 100 g. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, because the lace loses definition and the baskets sag.
- Plum: 200 g (about 340 m)
Quantities include a margin of roughly 8% for swatching and for the yarn wraps.
Tools:
– 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
– 2 wooden dowels, each 14 in (35.6 cm) long and 3/8 in (1.0 cm) in diameter
– 8 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Spray bottle and a small towel for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- tr: treble crochet
- dtr: double treble crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rnd: round
Special stitches
tr5tog (spoke cluster): Yarn over twice, insert hook in the indicated st, pull up a loop, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice. Repeat from * in each of the 5 indicated sts (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. This makes the five lower spokes of one wheel.
dtr3tog (valley cluster): Yarn over 3 times, insert hook in the indicated place, pull up a loop, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] 3 times. Repeat from * in each of the 3 indicated places (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
Slip stitch cord: Chain the required length. Then sl st into the back bump of each chain.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc × 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
Make one basket base first and treat it as your test piece. At this gauge, 4 sc equal 1 in (2.5 cm), so the 108-stitch base measures 27 in (68.6 cm) around.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 5 (84 sts): about 9.5 in × 2.25 in (24.1 × 5.7 cm)
– After Rnd 9 (108 sts): 11.25 in × 4 in (28.6 × 10.2 cm)
– After Rnd 16: wall height about 3 in (7.6 cm), including about 2 in (5.1 cm) of lace
– After Rnd 21: wall height 4 in (10.2 cm)
If your base is too big, go down a hook size. If it’s too small, go up a hook size. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the lace repeat depends on exactly 108 stitches.
Basket (Make 2)
Work in joined, non-turning rounds. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc, then ch 1 (the ch 1 does not count as a stitch).
Each base round has 4 segments: End 1, Side A, End 2, Side B.
Oval Base
Ch 30.
Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook (End 1), sc in next 27 ch (Side A), 3 sc in last ch (End 2). Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: sc in next 27 ch (Side B). Join. (60 sts)
Rnd 2: [Inc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (66 sts: ends 6, sides 27)
Rnd 3: [(Sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (72 sts)
Rnd 4: [(Sc in next 2 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (78 sts)
Rnd 5: [(Sc in next 3 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (84 sts)
Rnd 6: [(Sc in next 4 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (90 sts)
Rnd 7: [(Sc in next 5 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (96 sts)
Rnd 8: [(Sc in next 6 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (102 sts)
Rnd 9: [(Sc in next 7 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 27 sts] twice. Join. (108 sts: each end 27, each side 27)
Each round adds exactly 6 sts, 3 at each curved end. The total for round n is 54 + 6n, so Rnd 9 = 108.
Lower Wall
Rnd 10: Sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (108 sts) The unused front loops form a crisp ridge where the base turns up into the wall.
Rnds 11–13: Sc in each st around. Join. (108 sts)
The lower wall now measures about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Starburst Lace Band
The band uses a 12-stitch repeat, worked 9 times around (9 × 12 = 108).
Rnd 14 (lower spokes): Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4, skip 1 st, tr5tog over the next 9 sts (legs in the 1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th and 9th of those sts), ch 4, skip 1 st. Repeat from * 8 more times. Join to the first sc. (9 sc, 9 clusters, 18 ch-4 sps)
Each repeat uses 1 + 1 + 9 + 1 = 12 sts. Each cluster sits centered above the 7th stitch of its repeat and forms the center of a wheel.
Rnd 15 (upper spokes): Sl st in each of the next 4 ch and in the top of the first cluster. Ch 4 (counts as tr), then (ch 2, tr) 4 times in the same cluster top: this is the first fan. Ch 4, sc in next sc, ch 4.
Then work in the next cluster top: tr, (ch 2, tr) 4 times. Ch 4, sc in next sc, ch 4. Repeat from * 7 more times. Join to the top of the beginning ch-4. (9 fans of 5 tr, 36 ch-2 sps, 9 sc, 18 ch-4 sps)
Each wheel now has 5 spokes below the center and 5 above, for 10 in total. The ch-4 strands frame diamond-shaped openings between the wheels.
Rnd 16 (closing): Ch 1, sc in first tr of fan, (sc in ch-2 sp, sc in next tr) 4 times, ch 1, dtr3tog (first leg in the ch-4 sp, second in the sc, third in the next ch-4 sp), ch 1. Repeat from * 8 more times. Join. (81 sc + 9 dtr3tog = 90 sts, plus 18 ch-1 sps)
Each fan becomes 9 sc. The tall valley cluster lifts the low point between wheels up to the same height as the fans.
Rim (Border)
Rim gauge: The rim uses the base gauge of 4 sc per inch (2.5 cm). At 108 sts, it matches the 27 in (68.6 cm) base, so the walls rise straight without flaring or pulling in.
Rnd 17 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in each of next 9 sc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in top of dtr3tog, sc in ch-1 sp. Repeat from * 8 more times. Join.
Count: per repeat, (9 sts worked 1 per existing sc) + (3 sts added over the valley) = 12. Total 9 × 12 = 108 sts: about 27 along each long side and 27 around each curved end.
Rnds 18–20: Sc in each st around. Join. (108 sts)
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sl st loosely in each st around. Join. (108 sl sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends. The rim is about 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, and the basket now stands 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
Why the math works: The base finishes at 108 sts. The lace repeat divides 108 evenly into 9 repeats. Rnd 17 restores exactly 108 sts. Because no round after Rnd 9 adds or removes stitches overall, the wall rises straight and the rim matches the base.
Dowel Tabs (Make 2 per Basket)
Fold the basket flat with the long sides together to find the center of each curved end. Place markers 3 sts on each side of that center point, so 6 sts sit between the markers.
Row 1: With the outside facing you, join yarn in the first marked st of Rnd 21. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 5 sts. (6 sts)
Rows 2–8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
Leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail and fasten off. The tab measures about 1.75 in (4.4 cm). Repeat at the other end of the basket.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 2, plum, about 85 g each
- Cord: 1, plum, about 12 g
- Yarn wraps: 4, plum, about 3 g in total
Layout:
/\ <- hanging loop
/ \
===[ BASKET 1 ]=== <- upper dowel
| |
| 9 in |
| |
===[ BASKET 2 ]=== <- lower dowel
Cord
Ch 170 loosely. Before slip stitching, check that the chain measures about 39 in (99.1 cm). Add or remove chains if needed.
Sl st in the back bump of each ch. (170 sl sts)
The finished cord measures about 38 in (96.5 cm). Fasten off.
Joining
Tabs to rim: Lay a dowel along the top of the basket. Fold each tab outward over the dowel and down onto the outside wall. Sew the 6 sts of Row 8 to the 6 sts of Rnd 20, one stitch to one stitch.
Sew snugly, but leave enough room for the dowel to slide through with light pressure. The dowel should stick out about 1.375 in (3.5 cm) past each end of the basket. Repeat for the second basket.
Hanging loop: Fold the cord in half. Form a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) loop at the fold, which uses 0.75 in (1.9 cm) of cord on each side. Wrap a 20 in (50.8 cm) length of yarn tightly around both strands 8 times, knot it, and bury the ends.
Upper wraps: Measure 9.25 in (23.5 cm) from the center fold along each strand. Lay that point against the upper dowel, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in from the dowel end. Wrap it 8 times with a 20 in (50.8 cm) length of yarn, crossing over both the cord and the dowel. Knot and bury the ends.
Lower wraps: Measure 18.25 in (46.4 cm) from the center fold along each strand. Bind that point to the lower dowel in the same way. Tuck the remaining 0.75 in (1.9 cm) of cord under the wrap.
Tension: Pull each wrap tight enough that the cord can’t slide along the dowel, but don’t crush the cord. Keep both strands the same length so the baskets hang level.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer from a hook and check these measurements:
– Hanging loop top to upper dowel: about 5.5 in (14.0 cm)
– Upper dowel to lower dowel: 9 in (22.9 cm)
– Overall length: about 18.5 in (47.0 cm)
Final Blocking
- Remove the dowels.
- Lightly mist each basket until it is damp, not soaked.
- Stuff each basket firmly with a rolled towel so it takes on its oval shape.
- Push the base flat. Pinch the ridge from Rnd 10 to sharpen the fold between base and wall.
- Gently open each wheel and diamond with your fingertips.
- Let the baskets dry completely, then put the dowels back in.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base measures 11.25 × 4 in (28.6 × 10.2 cm) and lies flat.
- Every round from Rnd 10 to Rnd 21 counts 108, except Rnds 14–16.
- Each basket has 9 complete wheels, each with 10 spokes.
- Each rim is 1 in (2.5 cm) deep, and the basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- The tabs are centered on the curved ends and sewn 6 sts to 6 sts.
- All 5 wraps are tight and their ends are buried.
- The baskets hang level, with dowels 9 in (22.9 cm) apart.
Troubleshooting
- The base cups upward: You are working too tightly at the ends. Go up a hook size or check your increases.
- The base ruffles: You have extra stitches. Recount each round against 54 + 6n.
- The ends look pointy: In alternate rounds, work the increase first in each end repeat. The stitch counts stay the same.
- The lace band slants: Make sure each Rnd 14 repeat uses exactly 12 sts.
- The fans pucker: Work the ch-2 spaces a little looser.
- The baskets tilt: Remeasure the wrap points from the center fold.
- The dowel slips: Add 2 more wraps.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, reshape over a towel, and lay flat to dry. Remove the dowels before washing.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other in this order:
- 4 sc per inch gives a 108-stitch base that measures 11.25 × 4 in (28.6 × 10.2 cm).
- 108 sts divide into 9 starburst repeats.
- Rnd 17 restores 108 sts.
- The 1 in (2.5 cm) rim brings each basket to 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- Two dowels 9 in (22.9 cm) apart give an 18.5 in (47.0 cm) organizer.
Check each stage before moving on. Happy crocheting!