This hanging holder stacks three round baskets in a vertical column, and each basket holds one standard toilet paper roll. Short mustard straps link the baskets. A tapered tab at the top wraps around a wooden ring, so the whole holder hangs from a single hook.
The colors are warm mustard gold and soft cream. Each basket has a solid mustard base and a wall of staggered shell rounds that alternate cream and mustard. The top is a thick cream rim with a corded reverse single crochet edge. The look is cozy and slightly retro, and it goes well with wood, brass, and natural textures.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and 5 in (12.7 cm) tall. Assembled, the holder is about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) long from the bottom basket to the top of the hanging loop, not counting the ring.
Construction is simple. You crochet each basket from the bottom up in joined rounds and work the cream rim as the “border.” Then you make four flat straps and one tapered tab, and sew everything together stitch to stitch at marked points.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (assembled): about 23.5 in (59.7 cm) long, plus a 2.75 in (7.0 cm) ring
- Skill level: Easy intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 8 (3 baskets, 4 straps, 1 hanging tab)
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, with 2 straps between each pair of baskets
- Piece size (one basket): 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across, 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
- Size before border: wall height 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Border depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) cream rim
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape, doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the rolls, and handles bathroom humidity. Avoid very soft or splitty yarns, because the shell rounds need crisp definition.
- Mustard (Color A): 120 g, about 204 m
- Cream (Color B): 65 g, about 110 m
These amounts include a margin of about 20 percent for gauge differences.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) outer diameter
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a spray bottle for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- rep – repeat
Special stitches:
- Shell: 5 dc in the same stitch.
- Reverse sc (crab stitch): Work from left to right (if you’re right-handed). Insert the hook in the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This makes the corded rim edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). One shell round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before you start the others. It works as both your gauge swatch and your fit test.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 6 (36 sts): the base measures about 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
- After Round 12 (72 sts): the base measures about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and lies flat.
- After Round 16: the solid wall measures 1 in (2.5 cm) from the base edge.
- After Round 22: the wall measures 4 in (10.2 cm).
- After the rim: the wall measures 5 in (12.7 cm), and a roll slides in with a little room.
If the base is too big or ruffles, switch to a 4.5 mm (7) hook. If it is too small or cups upward before Round 13, switch to a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook. Keep the stitch counts the same; change only the hook.
Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds and don’t turn. The ch 1 at the start of each round does not count as a stitch.
Base
With Color A, make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, sl st. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, sl st. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, sl st. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc; rep 6 times total, sl st. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc; rep 6 times total, sl st. (36 sts)
Rounds 7–12: Continue the same way, adding 1 more sc between increases each round. Round 7: 42 sts. Round 8: 48 sts. Round 9: 54 sts. Round 10: 60 sts. Round 11: 66 sts. Round 12: 72 sts.
Each round’s total is 6 times the round number.
Wall
Round 13: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st. (72 sts) This makes the ridge where the base turns up into the wall.
Rounds 14–16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st. (72 sts) Fasten off Color A.
The shell rounds use a 6-stitch repeat: 72 ÷ 6 = 12 shells per round.
Round 17 (Color B): Join Color B in any st. Ch 1, sc in same st, sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * 10 more times. Then sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (12 shells + 12 sc = 72 sts) Fasten off.
Round 18 (Color A): Join Color A in the center (3rd) dc of any shell. Ch 1, sc in same st, shell in next sc, sc in center dc of next shell; rep from * 10 more times. Then shell in last sc, sl st to first sc. (12 shells + 12 sc = 72 sts) Fasten off.
Each new shell sits over an sc from the round below, so the shells stagger like a honeycomb.
Round 19 (Color B): Rep Round 18. (72 sts)
Round 20 (Color A): Rep Round 18. (72 sts)
Round 21 (Color B): Rep Round 18. (72 sts)
Round 22 (Color A, leveling round): Join Color A in the center dc of any shell. Ch 1, sc in same st, hdc in next dc, dc in next dc, tr in next sc, dc in next dc, hdc in next dc, sc in center dc of next shell; rep from * 10 more times. Then work hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc over the last 5 sts, sl st to first sc. (12 repeats × 6 sts = 72 sts) Fasten off.
The tall stitches fill the dips between shell tops, so the rim starts on a level edge. The wall now measures 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make All Pieces
Baskets: 3, each using about 38 g of Color A and 20 g of Color B, including the rim.
Straps: 4, in Color A only.
Hanging tab: 1, in Color A and Color B.
Strap (Make 4)
With Color A, ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (5 sts)
Rows 2–30: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail. Each strap is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide and 7.5 in (19.1 cm) long.
Hanging Tab (Make 1)
With Color A, ch 38.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (37 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (35 sts)
Row 3: Rep Row 2. (33 sts) Change to Color B on the last pull-through.
Rows 4–9 (Color B): Rep Row 2. Counts: 31, 29, 27, 25, 23, 21 sts. Change to Color A on the last pull-through of Row 9.
Rows 10–16 (Color A): Rep Row 2. Counts: 19, 17, 15, 13, 11, 9, 7 sts.
Every row loses exactly 2 sts, so Row n has 37 − 2(n − 1) sts, and Row 16 has 7 sts. The tab is 9.25 in (23.5 cm) wide at the bottom and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
Rows 17–28: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (7 sts) This strip is 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide and 3 in (7.6 cm) long. Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail.
Layout grid (top to bottom):
[ Ring ]
[ Tab ]
[Basket 1]
[Strap] [Strap]
[Basket 2]
[Strap] [Strap]
[Basket 3]
Border (Basket Rim)
Work the rim on each basket right after Round 22.
Border gauge: 4 sc per in and 4 rounds per in, the same as the main gauge.
To keep the rim even, think of the 72 sts as 4 quarters of 18 sts each: front, left side, back, and right side.
Round 23 (Color B): Join Color B in the first sc of Round 22. Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st. (72 sts: 18 per quarter)
Rounds 24–25: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st. (72 sts: 18 per quarter)
Round 26: Ch 1, reverse sc in each st around, sl st. (72 sts: 18 per quarter) Fasten off and weave in ends.
Why the math works: 72 sts is both 12 shell repeats of 6 sts and 4 quarters of 18 sts. The rim doesn’t add or lose any stitches, so it matches the wall exactly and stays straight instead of flaring or pulling in. Three sc rounds plus the crab stitch add 1 in (2.5 cm), which brings the wall to 5 in (12.7 cm).
Marking for assembly: On Round 25, number the sts 1–72 starting from any st. Place a marker in st 1 and in st 37. These are the side centers, exactly 36 sts apart. Sts 1–37 are the back of the basket.
Joining
Sew with whipstitch, using the long tails and a tapestry needle. Join stitch to stitch: sew each strap stitch or row end into one matching basket stitch or row.
Straps to Basket 1: Center a strap over marker st 1 on the outside of Basket 1, so it covers sts 71, 72, 1, 2, and 3. Line up strap Row 1 with the top of the rim and sew it to those 5 rim sts. Then sew both long edges of strap Rows 1–20 down the wall, 1 strap row to each wall row. Row 20 ends at the base ridge, because 20 rows = 5 in (12.7 cm), the full wall height. Repeat with a second strap at marker st 37 (sts 35–39).
Gap: Strap Rows 21–26 hang free. This gap is 6 rows, or 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
Straps to Basket 2: Place Basket 2 below, with its markers under the straps. Sew strap Rows 27–30 to the outside of Basket 2 over sts 71–3 and 35–39, starting at the top of its rim. This gives a 1 in (2.5 cm) overlap.
Basket 2 to Basket 3: Repeat the same steps with the last 2 straps.
Tab: Place Row 1 of the tab against the inside back of the Basket 1 rim. Sew its 37 sts to rim sts 1–37, one to one. The end sts of the tab land on the marked side centers, right over the straps, so the weight hangs in a straight line.
Ring: Pass Rows 23–28 of the tab strip through the ring and fold them down behind Rows 17–22. Sew the end of Row 28 to the back of Row 17, then sew both side edges together.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. Each seam should be the same length as the strap edge. If the basket wall puckers, you’re sewing too tightly.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder. It should measure about 23.5 in (59.7 cm): 3 baskets at 5 in (12.7 cm) each, 2 gaps at 1.5 in (3.8 cm) each, a 4 in (10.2 cm) tab, and a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) loop.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends, keeping each one in its own color.
- Mist each basket with water until it’s damp, not soaked.
- Put a toilet paper roll wrapped in a plastic bag inside each basket to hold a straight cylinder shape.
- Shape the rims so they’re round and the crab stitch edge faces outward.
- Lay the straps and tab flat, pin them straight, and mist them.
- Let everything dry completely, for at least 12 hours.
- Remove the forms and hang the holder.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket has 72 sts in every wall and rim round.
- Each wall shows 5 staggered shell rounds alternating cream and mustard.
- Each basket measures 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
- The straps are centered on side markers 36 sts apart.
- Both gaps between baskets measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- The tab is sewn across 37 back rim sts with no puckering.
- The ring loop is sewn through all layers.
- All ends are woven in and don’t show from the front.
Troubleshooting
Base cups or curls: Your increase rounds are too tight. Go up a hook size for Rounds 1–12.
Base ruffles: Go down a hook size, and check that you have exactly 6 increases per round.
Shells lean or drift: Check that each shell sits in an sc from the round below and each sc sits in a center dc.
Wrong count after a shell round: Count shells, not stitches. You should have exactly 12.
Rim flares: Your rim is looser than the wall. Work Rounds 23–25 with a smaller hook.
Baskets tilt forward: The straps aren’t centered on the side markers. Recount from st 1 and sew them again.
Roll fits too tightly: Work one more increase round (78 sts) before the BLO round, then keep 78 sts in every round after it. 78 ÷ 6 = 13 shells, so the shell pattern still works.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat. Reshape the baskets over rolls while they’re damp.
Final Notes
Here is the full measurement chain. The 72-st base is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across. The wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall with 12 shells per round. The rim keeps all 72 sts and adds 1 in (2.5 cm), so each finished basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) tall. Two 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps, a 4 in (10.2 cm) tab, and a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) loop bring the holder to 23.5 in (59.7 cm). If your first basket hits its checkpoints, the rest will follow.
Happy crocheting!