This hanging basket is made for small spaces. It hooks onto a towel rail or a cabinet rod and keeps spare toilet rolls, washcloths or toiletries off the counter. The burgundy single crochet makes a firm wall that holds its shape, and the blush-pink rim adds a little contrast.
The basket has a flat oval base and straight walls with no seams. A twisted reverse single crochet edge finishes the rim. Two rounded tabs with metal grommets are sewn inside the back wall so the basket hangs level from two J-hooks.
The finished basket measures 12 in (30.5 cm) long, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) deep and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall. When it hangs on its tabs, the whole piece is about 8 in (20.3 cm) tall. The pattern uses US crochet terms.
To make it, you work the base in joined rounds, turn up the walls with a back-loop round, work straight rounds, then add the pink rim. You make the two tabs separately, set a grommet in each one and sew them in place.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished basket: 12 in (30.5 cm) long x 4.5 in (11.4 cm) deep x 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
- Hanging height with tabs: 8 in (20.3 cm)
- Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 (1 basket body, 2 tabs)
- Layout: Tabs sit inside the back wall, with their centers 5.7 in (14.5 cm) apart
- Tab size: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) x 5.5 in (14.0 cm)
- Size before rim border: 12 in (30.5 cm) x 4.5 in (11.4 cm), with walls 3.7 in (9.4 cm) tall
- Rim border depth: 0.8 in (2.0 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth, firm bulky cotton. Cotton holds its shape in a damp bathroom and does not stretch out when the basket is full. Avoid fluffy or very soft acrylics, because the walls will sag.
- Color A, burgundy: 120 g / 140 m (153 yd)
- Color B, blush pink: 30 g / 35 m (38 yd)
These quantities include a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch and tails.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 4 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- 2 metal grommets, 3/8 in (1.0 cm) inner diameter, with a setting tool
- Awl or knitting needle, to open a hole for the grommet
- 2 metal J-hooks or S-hooks to fit your rail
- Tape measure and scissors
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO = back loop only
- rev sc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd(s) = round(s)
Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This makes the twisted, rope-like rim edge.
Round joins: Unless told otherwise, join each round with a sl st to the first sc, then ch 1. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Work the first sc of the next round into the same stitch as the join.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc x 13 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
Make one tab first and use it as your gauge piece. It is small and quick, and you need it anyway. A finished tab should measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm) x 5.5 in (14.0 cm). If it does, your basket will come out the right size.
Checkpoints:
- Tab: 1.5 in x 5.5 in (3.8 x 14.0 cm)
- Base after Rnd 4: about 9.5 in x 2.2 in (24.1 x 5.6 cm)
- Base after Rnd 8: 12 in x 4.5 in (30.5 x 11.4 cm), lying flat with no ruffling or cupping
- Walls after Rnd 20: 3.7 in (9.4 cm) tall
- Finished walls after Rnd 23: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
If your pieces are too big: go down 0.5 mm in hook size. Loose stitches also make floppy walls, so going smaller helps the shape as well as the size.
If your pieces are too small: go up 0.5 mm. If the fabric starts to feel loose, keep the hook size and use a slightly thicker yarn instead.
Tabs (Make 2)
Use Color A.
Ch 15.
Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 12 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate the work and, working along the underside of the chain, sc in next 12 ch. Join. (30 sts)
Rnd 2: [2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 12 sts] twice. Join. (36 sts)
Rnd 3: [(sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 12 sts] twice. Join. (42 sts)
Fasten off and leave an 18 in (45.7 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: 1.5 in x 5.5 in (3.8 x 14.0 cm). Each tab has two rounded ends and two straight sides of 12 sts.
Set the grommet: Mark a point centered across the width, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) from one rounded end. Push an awl through the fabric and work it around to spread the stitches apart without cutting the yarn. Widen the hole until the grommet barrel fits. Insert the grommet from the right side, add the washer on the back, and set it with the tool, following the kit instructions.
Basket Base
Use Color A.
Ch 25.
Rnd 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook (End B), sc in next 22 ch (Side 1), 3 sc in last ch (End A). Rotate the work and, working along the underside of the chain, sc in next 22 ch (Side 2). Join. (50 sts)
Side 1 will become the back wall, where the tabs go.
Rnd 2: [2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 22 sts] twice. Join. (56 sts)
Rnd 3: [(sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts] twice. Join. (62 sts)
Rnd 4: [(sc in next 2 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts] twice. Join. (68 sts)
Checkpoint: about 9.5 in x 2.2 in (24.1 x 5.6 cm).
Rnd 5: [(sc in next 3 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts] twice. Join. (74 sts)
Rnd 6: [(sc in next 4 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts] twice. Join. (80 sts)
Rnd 7: [(sc in next 5 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts] twice. Join. (86 sts)
Rnd 8: [(sc in next 6 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 22 sts] twice. Join. (92 sts)
Each round adds exactly 6 sts: 3 at each end. This is the same rate as a flat sc circle split into two halves, so the curved ends stay flat. The straight sides stay at 22 sts in every round.
The final layout of the base is End B 24 + Side 1 22 + End A 24 + Side 2 22 = 92 sts. Place a marker in the first and last stitch of each straight side.
Checkpoint: 12 in x 4.5 in (30.5 x 11.4 cm), lying flat.
Basket Walls
Continue with Color A.
Rnd 9 (turning round): Sc BLO in each st around. Join. (92 sts)
The unused front loops form a ridge on the outside. This makes the crisp, square edge where the base meets the wall.
Rnds 10–20: Sc in each st around. Join each round. (92 sts in each round)
Do not increase or decrease anywhere in the walls. Keeping the count at 92 makes the walls rise straight up. Keep the side markers in place, or move them up every few rounds.
Checkpoint: the walls measure 3.7 in (9.4 cm) from the turning ridge.
At the end of Rnd 20, change to Color B on the final yarn over of the join. Fasten off Color A.
Make All Pieces
| Piece | Quantity | Color | Size |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basket body | 1 | A, with B rim | 12 x 4.5 x 4.5 in (30.5 x 11.4 x 11.4 cm) |
| Tab | 2 | A | 1.5 x 5.5 in (3.8 x 14.0 cm) |
Back wall layout (Side 1, seen from inside, 22 sts):
st: 1 2 3 4 5 | 6 ...............17 | 18 19 20 21 22
[ TAB 1 ]| open (12 sts) |[ TAB 2 ]
center = st 3 center = st 20
<------------ 17 sts = 5.7 in (14.5 cm) ----------->
Each tab sits over 5 wall stitches. That is 1.7 in at gauge, which gives a small margin on each side of the 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tab.
Rim Border
Use Color B.
Border gauge: the same 12 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm). The three rim rounds measure 0.8 in (2.0 cm) together, because the rev sc round is a little shorter than a sc round.
Rnd 21: Sc in each st around. Join. (92 sts: End B 24, Side 1 22, End A 24, Side 2 22)
Rnd 22: Sc in each st around. Join. (92 sts: 24 / 22 / 24 / 22)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first rev sc. (92 sts: 24 / 22 / 24 / 22)
Fasten off and weave in the ends on the inside, near the join at End B.
Why the math works: The rim has the same 92 sts as the walls. Each side keeps its own count: 22 on each long side and 24 on each curved end. Nothing is added at the corners, so the rim does not flare or pull in. The joins all fall at End B, so the slight seam line sits on the short end, away from the front.
Checkpoint: the walls now measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm) from the turning ridge to the top of the rim.
Joining: Attaching the Tabs
Method: Whipstitch with the Color A tail on each tab.
- Hold the basket with Side 1 (the back) facing you from the inside.
- Place Tab 1 against the inside of the back wall, grommet end up, over back-wall sts 1–5. Center it on st 3.
- Slide it down until 2 in (5.1 cm) of tab sits below the top of the rim. The remaining 3.5 in (8.9 cm) stands above the rim.
- Pin it. Place Tab 2 the same way over sts 18–22, centered on st 20.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
- Sew around the overlapped lower 2 in (5.1 cm) of the tab in a U shape: down one side, across the curved bottom, and up the other side.
- On the straight sides, 2 in of tab equals 6 tab sts. These match about 6–7 wall rnds, so take one whipstitch per tab st and catch one wall rnd each time. Add one extra stitch at the bottom of each side.
- Across the curved bottom, take one whipstitch into each of the 9 end sts of the tab.
- Finish with two extra passes through the tab and the first pink rnd (Rnd 21). This reinforces the point that carries the weight.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug enough that the tab lies flat against the wall, but not so tight that the wall puckers. Burgundy on burgundy hides the stitches well on the outside.
Size checkpoint: Both tabs stand straight up, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the rim. Their centers are 5.7 in (14.5 cm) apart. The grommets sit at the same height.
Final Blocking
- Spray the basket and tabs with water until damp, not soaked.
- Stuff the basket firmly with a folded towel or a box measuring about 12 x 4.5 x 4.5 in (30.5 x 11.4 x 11.4 cm).
- Press the base flat and pinch the turning ridge to sharpen it.
- Shape the long walls straight and round the ends evenly.
- Smooth the tabs flat and vertical.
- Leave it to dry completely, at least 24 hours, before removing the stuffing.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every round from Rnd 8 to Rnd 23 has 92 sts.
- The base lies flat and measures 12 x 4.5 in (30.5 x 11.4 cm).
- The turning ridge runs evenly around the bottom edge.
- The walls are 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall and stand straight up.
- The pink rim is 0.8 in (2.0 cm) deep with an even twisted edge.
- The tabs measure 1.5 x 5.5 in (3.8 x 14.0 cm) and are set 5.7 in (14.5 cm) apart.
- The grommets are fully set and do not wobble.
- No ends show on the outside.
Troubleshooting
The base ruffles: Your tension is loose or you have extra increases. Recount each round against the pattern, or go down a hook size.
The base cups upward: You are missing increases, or your stitches are very tight. Recount the end sections.
The walls lean outward: Check that you are not adding stitches at the joins. Every round must have 92.
The basket hangs crooked: One tab is set lower than the other. Re-sew it so both tabs stand 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the rim.
The grommet pulls out: The hole is too large. Close the stitches around it with a few stitches of matching yarn, open a smaller hole, and set the grommet again.
The jog at the join is visible: Keep every join at End B and pull the first sc of each round snug.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the excess water, and dry the basket over a box or a stuffed towel to keep its shape. Do not tumble dry.
Final Notes
The sizing works as a chain. Gauge is 12 sc x 13 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), and a tab checks it at 1.5 x 5.5 in (3.8 x 14.0 cm). The base grows from 50 to 92 sts and measures 12 x 4.5 in (30.5 x 11.4 cm). The walls hold 92 sts and reach 3.7 in (9.4 cm), and the pink rim adds 0.8 in (2.0 cm) for a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wall. The tabs stand 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the rim, so the basket hangs 8 in (20.3 cm) tall.
Happy crocheting!