The Ginkgo Fan Plastic Bag Holder is a tall, lacy tube that hangs from a wall peg and keeps grocery bags tidy. You stuff bags in through the top and pull them out one at a time through a small round opening at the bottom.
It uses one warm pumpkin-orange cotton. Open chain-mesh diamonds alternate with solid shell fans, and the fans stack in a neat column up the body. A scalloped top, a drawstring cord and two ginkgo-leaf fans give it a soft, botanical finish.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 16 in (40.6 cm) long and 7 in (17.8 cm) wide laid flat, not counting the hanging strap.
Construction is seamless. You start at the bottom opening and work a solid domed base. Then you work four mesh-and-fan tiers and a solid top band with eyelets, and finish with the edgings. The strap, cord and leaves are made separately and attached at the end.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 16 in (40.6 cm) long x 7 in (17.8 cm) wide, laid flat
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (category 4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 body worked in the round, plus 1 strap, 1 cord and 2 leaves
- Layout: one vertical tube: base band, mesh setup, 4 fan tiers, top band
- Piece size: 48 sts around in the solid bands, 12 ch-5 loops around in the mesh
- Size before border: 15.25 in (38.7 cm) long
- Border depth: top scallop 0.5 in (1.3 cm); bottom edging 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
- Bottom opening: 6 in (15.2 cm) around, about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds the fan shapes crisply and won’t sag under a full load of bags. Avoid fuzzy or splitty yarns, because the chain loops show every stitch.
- Pumpkin orange: 150 g, about 255 m (279 yd)
That is about 120 g for the body, 15 g for the strap and 15 g for the cord and leaves. The quantities include a margin of about 10%.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch marker
- Scissors and measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins
- A rolled towel or a 4 in (10.2 cm) wide cardboard tube for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sk – skip
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- inc – 2 sc in the same st
Special technique – mesh join: Instead of ending a mesh round with ch 5 and a sl st, work ch 2, dc in first sc. The ch 2 plus the dc make the last loop and leave your hook in the center of it, ready for the next round.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Solid gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Mesh gauge: 6 ch-5 loops = 7 in (17.8 cm) across the flattened tube. One fan tier (6 rounds) = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
The holder is its own test piece. Work through Round 8, then stop and measure before you start the fan tiers.
Checkpoints (measured from the foundation chain, laid flat):
- After Round 4: base is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
- After Round 8: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long; mesh is 7 in (17.8 cm) wide.
- After Round 14 (Tier 1): 5.25 in (13.3 cm)
- After Round 20 (Tier 2): 8.25 in (21.0 cm)
- After Round 26 (Tier 3): 11.25 in (28.6 cm)
- After Round 32 (Tier 4): 14.25 in (36.2 cm)
- After Round 36: 15.25 in (38.7 cm)
Too big: If the base is wider than 6.5 in (16.5 cm) flat, restart with a 4.5 mm hook. Loose fans look floppy.
Too small: Go up to a 5.5 mm hook. A tight mesh makes bags hard to stuff in and pull out.
Width matters more than length here.
Body Pattern
Bottom Base (Rounds 1–6)
Ch 24 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, without twisting. This is the bottom opening. Mark the first st of each round.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join to first sc. (24 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 8 times total, join. (32 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 8 times total, join. (40 sc)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 8 times total, join. (48 sc)
These increases make the base flare into a gentle dome around the opening.
Round 5: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in each st around, join to first hdc. (48 hdc)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sc)
Checkpoint: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) from the foundation chain.
Mesh Setup (Rounds 7–8)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 11 times, ch 2, dc in first sc. (12 ch-5 loops)
The first sc plus 11 repeats of 4 sts uses 45 sts. The last loop skips the final 3 sts, so all 48 are used.
Round 8: Ch 1, sc around the post of the joining dc, ch 5, sc in next loop; repeat from * 11 times, ch 2, dc in first sc. (12 ch-5 loops)
Fan Tier (Rounds 9–14)
Each tier has 3 repeats around the tube. Each repeat uses 4 loops from the round below: 3 loops get a sc and the 4th gets the fan.
Round 9 (fan base): Ch 1. Sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 2, 7 dc in next loop, ch 2; repeat from * 2 more times, join to first sc. Work the first sc around the joining dc. (3 fans of 7 dc, 6 ch-5 loops, 6 ch-2 sps)
All 7 dc come out of one loop, which gives each fan its pointed base.
Round 10 (fan spreads): Sl st in next 3 ch to reach the center of the first ch-5 loop, ch 1. Sc in ch-5 loop, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop, ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, dc in first dc of fan, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 6 times, ch 3, sk ch-2 sp; repeat from * 2 more times, join. Work the first sc in the loop your hook is in. (3 fans of 7 dc with 6 ch-1 sps, 3 ch-5 loops, 6 ch-3 sps)
Round 11 (fan opens): Sl st in next 3 ch to reach the center of the ch-5 loop, ch 1. Sc in ch-5 loop, ch 3, sk ch-3 sp, dc in first dc of fan, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 6 times, ch 3, sk ch-3 sp; repeat from * 2 more times, join. (3 fans of 7 dc with 6 ch-2 sps, 3 sc, 6 ch-3 sps)
Round 12 (fan rim): Ch 1. Sc in next sc, ch 4, sk ch-3 sp, sc in first dc of fan, (2 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next dc) 6 times, ch 4, sk ch-3 sp; repeat from * 2 more times, join. (3 rims of 19 sc, 3 single sc, 6 ch-4 sps)
Each rim is 1 + (6 x 3) = 19 sc. This solid rim gives each fan its smooth, rounded top.
Round 13 (mesh restore): Ch 1. Sc in next single sc, ch 5, sk ch-4 sp and 3 rim sc, sc in 4th rim sc, ch 5, sk 5 rim sc, sc in 10th rim sc, ch 5, sk 5 rim sc, sc in 16th rim sc, ch 5, sk last 3 rim sc and ch-4 sp; repeat from * 2 more times, replacing the final ch 5 with ch 2, dc in first sc. (12 ch-5 loops)
Four loops per repeat x 3 repeats = 12 loops, the same as Round 8. The 10th rim sc is the center of the fan.
Round 14: Work as Round 8. (12 ch-5 loops)
Checkpoint: 5.25 in (13.3 cm).
Rounds 15–32: Repeat Rounds 9–14 three more times, for 4 fan tiers in total. Round 9 always starts in the joining loop, so the 4th loop of each repeat sits directly over the previous fan’s center. That keeps the fans stacked in columns. Checkpoint after Round 32: 14.25 in (36.2 cm).
Top Band (Rounds 33–36)
Round 33 (conversion): Ch 1, 4 sc in each ch-5 loop around, starting with the loop formed by the joining dc, join. (12 loops x 4 sc = 48 sc)
Round 34: Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st around, join. (48 hdc)
Round 35 (eyelets): Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; repeat from * 23 times, join to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (24 dc, 24 ch-1 sps)
Round 36: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around, join. (24 sc + 24 sc = 48 sc)
Checkpoint: 15.25 in (38.7 cm). Don’t fasten off.
Border
Border gauge: Both edgings are worked straight into the existing rounds, at the same 4 sts per 1 in (2.5 cm) as the solid bands.
Top Scallop (Round 37)
Round 37: Ch 1, sc in first st, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, sc in next st; repeat from * 11 times, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, sk 1 st, join to first sc. Fasten off. (12 scallops: 12 sc, 60 dc)
Why the math works: Each scallop uses exactly 4 sts (sc, skip, shell, skip). 12 x 4 = 48, which matches Round 36 with nothing left over. The scallop adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Bottom Edging (Rounds B1–B2)
Turn the holder upside down. Join the yarn in any free loop of the foundation chain.
Round B1: Ch 1, sc in each free loop around, join. (24 sc)
Round B2: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. Fasten off. (24 rev sc)
Why the math works: The ring has 24 ch, so both rounds keep the opening at exactly 24 sts and 6 in (15.2 cm) around. Extra sts would let bags fall out. The edging adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm).
Total length: 0.25 + 15.25 + 0.5 = 16 in (40.6 cm).
Strap
Ch 41.
Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (39 hdc)
Rows 2–3: Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st across, turn. (39 hdc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap is 9.75 in (24.8 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
Sew one end to the inside of Rounds 33–34 over sts 1–4. Sew the other end over sts 25–28, directly opposite. Those spots are 24 sts apart (half of 48), so the holder hangs straight.
Drawstring Cord
Ch 100. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (99 sl st, about 24 in / 61.0 cm)
Weave the cord over and under through the 24 ch-1 sps of Round 35, starting at the front. Because 24 is even, both ends come out side by side at the front.
Ginkgo Leaves (make 2)
Leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) starting tail.
Row 1: Ch 3, 5 dc in 3rd ch from hook, turn. (5 dc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count), 2 dc in each st across, turn. (10 dc)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * 5 times, turn. (15 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts, sl st in next st, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Fasten off. (15 sts)
The sl st in the 8th st makes the center notch. The stitches rise and fall on each side of it to form two rounded lobes. Each leaf is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide and 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall.
Use the starting tails to sew the point of a leaf to each cord end. Tie the cord loosely so that one leaf rests just under the scallops and the other hangs about 2 in (5.1 cm) lower.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends inside the solid bands, where they won’t show through the mesh.
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes, then press out the water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
- Slide a rolled towel or a cardboard tube inside to hold the tube shape.
- Ease the body to 7 in (17.8 cm) wide flat and 16 in (40.6 cm) long.
- Spread each fan’s dc evenly and smooth each rim into a curve.
- Pin the 12 scallops so they flare slightly outward.
- Shape the leaves’ two lobes and pin the center notch.
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours, before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Base band has 48 sts and is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
- Bottom opening has 24 sts.
- Every mesh round has 12 ch-5 loops.
- 4 fan tiers with 3 fans each, stacked in columns.
- Each fan rim has 19 sc.
- Eyelet round has 24 ch-1 sps; scallop round has 12 shells.
- Strap ends are directly opposite each other.
- Total length is 16 in (40.6 cm).
Troubleshooting
Fans drift sideways: Make sure Round 9 starts in the joining loop and the fan goes in the 4th loop of each repeat.
Uneven mesh: Center each sc in its loop and keep every ch 5 the same size.
Fan rims cup or ruffle: Cupping means your sc are too tight; ruffling means they are too loose. Adjust your tension in Round 12.
Top band flares: Recount Round 33. It must have exactly 48 sc.
Bags slip out of the bottom: Redo Round B1 more firmly, or with a 4.5 mm hook.
Holder tilts: Check that the strap ends are 24 sts apart.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape the fans while damp and lay flat to dry. You can machine wash it on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag, but always dry it flat.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. The base sets the width: 48 sts, 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. The mesh relaxes to 12 loops and 7 in (17.8 cm). Each of the 4 fan tiers adds 3 in (7.6 cm), which brings you to 14.25 in (36.2 cm). The top band takes the body to 15.25 in (38.7 cm), and the edgings finish it at 16 in (40.6 cm).
If your counts match at every checkpoint, the holder will hang straight, hold plenty of bags and let them out one at a time.
Happy crocheting!