The Noelle Bell is a plastic bag holder shaped like a little bell. A solid, rounded neck band leads into an open filet mesh body that flares toward the hem. A solid band and a row of corded scallops finish the bottom. A small cord bow sits just below the neck.
The sample uses one color, a warm cream cotton. It looks calm and a little vintage, and it suits a holiday kitchen as well as an everyday laundry room. The open mesh lets you see how many bags are left. You push bags in through the top and pull them out through the open hem.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide at the neck and 12 in (30.5 cm) wide at the hem when laid flat. It is 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall without the hanging loop.
Construction is simple. You work top-down in joined rounds: a single crochet neck band, a mesh body with steady increases, a solid hem band, and a scalloped edge. Then you make a cord bow and a hanging loop and sew them on. There are no side seams.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide at the neck, 12 in (30.5 cm) wide at the hem (flat), 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 main piece, plus a bow and a hanging loop sewn on
- Layout: One seamless tube, worked top-down in joined rounds
- Piece size: 24 in (61.0 cm) around the hem before the scallops
- Size before border: 12 in (30.5 cm) wide flat, 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall
- Border depth: 3 in (7.6 cm) (hem band plus scallops)
Materials
Pick a smooth worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the bell shape, shows the mesh grid clearly, and washes well. Acrylic also works, but the hem will be softer and may need more blocking. Avoid fuzzy or highly textured yarns; they blur the squares.
- Cream: 140 g (about 215 m / 235 yd)
This amount includes a margin of roughly 25 percent, so you have enough for a gauge swatch and small mistakes.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking surface
- Spray bottle
- A rolled towel for shaping
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- rep – repeat
- beg – beginning
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitches:
- Mesh: (dc in next dc, ch 1). One mesh makes one open square and uses 2 sts: the dc and its ch-1 sp.
- Mesh inc: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) all in the next dc. This turns one square into two.
- Rev sc: Working left to right, insert the hook in the next st to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. It makes a raised, rope-like edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge matters here because the mesh and the hem band share the same stitch math.
- Sc gauge: 16 sts x 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Mesh gauge: 8 squares x 8 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), so each square is 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Make the neck band first and treat it as your test piece. Lay it flat after Rnd 9 and measure it before you start the mesh. Then work three mesh rounds and check that the squares are 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 9: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat, 2 in (5.1 cm) tall
- After Rnd 28: 12 in (30.5 cm) wide flat at the bottom edge, 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall overall
- After Rnd 37: 12 in (30.5 cm) wide flat, 13.5 in (34.3 cm) tall
- After Rnd 39: 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall
If the piece is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Do not change the stitch counts; the hem math depends on them.
Neck Band
Leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. You will use it later to sew the hanging loop. The joins of every round line up and mark the center back.
Rnd 1: Ch 40, sl st to the first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist. Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to the first sc. (40 sc)
The opening measures 10 in (25.4 cm) around, or 5 in (12.7 cm) flat.
Rnds 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to the first sc. (40 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 7 more times, sl st to the first sc. (48 sc)
Rnds 5–9: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to the first sc. (48 sc)
The slightly smaller top opening gives the neck its rounded, domed look. Check the 6 in (15.2 cm) flat width now.
Mesh Body
Each mesh round adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of height. The beg ch 4 always counts as the first dc plus its ch-1 sp. Every round ends with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beg ch 4 (“join” below).
Rnd 10 (set-up): Ch 4, sk next st, *dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; rep from * 22 more times, join. (24 squares, 48 sts)
Rnds 11–12: Ch 4, mesh around (23 more meshes), join. (24 squares, 48 sts)
Rnd 13 (increase): Ch 4, mesh 2, mesh inc, *mesh 3, mesh inc; rep from * 4 more times, join. (30 squares, 60 sts)
The ch 4 counts as the first mesh of the first repeat, so each of the 6 repeats uses 4 dc from below and makes 5 squares.
Rnds 14–16: Ch 4, mesh around, join. (30 squares, 60 sts)
Rnd 17 (increase): Ch 4, mesh 3, mesh inc, *mesh 4, mesh inc; rep from * 4 more times, join. (36 squares, 72 sts)
Rnds 18–20: Ch 4, mesh around, join. (36 squares, 72 sts)
Rnd 21 (increase): Ch 4, mesh 4, mesh inc, *mesh 5, mesh inc; rep from * 4 more times, join. (42 squares, 84 sts)
Rnds 22–24: Ch 4, mesh around, join. (42 squares, 84 sts)
Rnd 25 (increase): Ch 4, mesh 5, mesh inc, *mesh 6, mesh inc; rep from * 4 more times, join. (48 squares, 96 sts)
Rnds 26–28: Ch 4, mesh around, join. (48 squares, 96 sts)
The mesh body is 19 rnds, or 9.5 in (24.1 cm) tall. The six increase points shift slightly each time, which keeps the flare smooth instead of pointed. The hem now measures 24 in (61.0 cm) around and 12 in (30.5 cm) flat.
Border: Hem Band and Scallops
The border is the solid band plus the scalloped edge, worked straight onto the last mesh round.
Border gauge: 4 sc per inch (2.5 cm), the same as the neck band. Flattened, the tube has a front and a back, so each “side” below is half of the round.
Rnd 29 (conversion): Ch 1, *sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * around, sl st to the first sc. 48 sc in the dc posts + 48 sc in the ch-1 sps = 96 sc (48 per side).
Rnds 30–37: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to the first sc. (96 sc, 48 per side)
The band is 9 rnds, or 2 in (5.1 cm) tall. The width stays at 12 in (30.5 cm) flat.
Rnd 38 (scallops): Ch 1, sc in first st, sk 3 sts, 9 dc in next st, sk 3 sts, *sc in next st, sk 3 sts, 9 dc in next st, sk 3 sts; rep from * 10 more times, sl st to the first sc. 12 sc + 108 dc = 120 sts (12 scallops, 6 per side).
Rnd 39 (corded edge): Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, sl st to the first rev sc. (120 sts, 60 per side) Fasten off.
The scallops add about 1 in (2.5 cm) of depth, so the full border is 3 in (7.6 cm).
Why the math works: Rnd 28 has 48 squares of 2 sts each, so the conversion round gives exactly 96 sc. Each scallop repeat uses 8 sts (1 sc, 3 skipped, 1 shell st, 3 skipped), and 96 ÷ 8 = 12 scallops. At 4 sts per inch, each scallop spans 2 in (5.1 cm), and 6 scallops x 2 in (5.1 cm) = 12 in (30.5 cm), matching the flat width. The 9-dc shells give each scallop its gentle outward flare.
Bow
Work all bow parts as cords: sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, then, without turning, sl st into each free loop on the underside of the chain. This rounds the cord so it matches the photo’s soft, braided look.
Bow loops: Ch 33, work the cord. (32 sc) The strip is 8 in (20.3 cm) long. Sew the ends together to form a ring, then flatten it with the seam at the center back. This gives two loops and a bow 4 in (10.2 cm) wide.
Tails: Ch 21, work the cord. (20 sc) The strip is 5 in (12.7 cm) long. Fold it at the center into an upside-down V.
Knot: Ch 7, work the cord. (6 sc) The strip is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long.
Place the tails behind the loops, wrap the knot tightly around both centers, and sew its ends at the back. Pinch the loops slightly so they curve.
Hanging Loop
Ch 41, work the cord. (40 sc) The strip is 10 in (25.4 cm) long.
Fold it in half. Using the starting tail, sew both ends to the inside of the neck at the center back, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top edge. The loop rises about 4 in (10.2 cm) above the top.
Attaching the Bow
Center the bow on the front, directly opposite the hanging loop. Its knot should sit over Rnd 10, where the neck band meets the mesh. Sew around the knot and at the tip of each loop and tail with small, hidden stitches. Do not sew through to the back layer.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends securely, especially at the loop seam.
- Wet the holder in cool water and gently press out the excess. Do not wring.
- Stuff the body lightly with a rolled towel to give it its bell shape.
- Lay it flat and smooth the mesh so the columns run straight from neck to hem.
- Pin the hem to 12 in (30.5 cm) wide, placing one pin at each scallop tip.
- Shape the neck band round with your fingers.
- Pin the bow loops into soft curves.
- Let it dry fully, then remove the towel and pins.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The neck is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat and nicely rounded.
- The last mesh round has 48 even, open squares.
- The flare is smooth, with no pointed corners.
- The hem band has 96 sts and lies flat.
- There are 12 scallops, 6 on each side, all the same size.
- The corded edge is even with no gaps.
- The bow is centered and sewn to the front layer only.
- The loop is sewn firmly at the center back and holds weight.
- The total height is 14.5 in (36.8 cm).
Troubleshooting
The mesh squares look slanted. Your rounds are drifting at the join. Always join to the 3rd ch of the beg ch 4, and work the first mesh of the next round into the correct post.
The squares look tall and narrow. Your dc are loose. Pull each loop up snugly, or go down a hook size for the mesh only.
The hem ruffles too much. Your shells are loose. Try 7 dc per scallop instead of 9, keeping the same 8-st repeat.
The hem pulls in. The corded edge is too tight. Work Rnd 39 with a hook one size larger.
The neck is too wide. Check your Rnd 1 chain. A loose foundation chain stretches, so chain with a smaller hook if needed.
Bags fall out of the bottom. Block again to firm up the edge, or add one more 96-sc round to the hem band before the scallops.
Care
Machine wash cold on a gentle cycle inside a mesh bag, then reshape and dry flat. Do not tumble dry, which can shrink cotton and distort the scallops.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. The neck band is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 2 in (5.1 cm) tall. The mesh grows from 24 to 48 squares over 9.5 in (24.1 cm), reaching 12 in (30.5 cm) wide flat. The 96-st hem band adds 2 in (5.1 cm), and the 12 scallops add 1 in (2.5 cm), for a total height of 14.5 in (36.8 cm). Check each stage and your bell will come out the right shape every time.
Happy crocheting!