This dream catcher has a lacy mandala inside a yarn-wrapped hoop. Below it hang strands of little daisies, pointed leaves and full, soft tassels. It looks calm and sunny and fits well in a nursery, a bedroom or a reading corner.
The palette is just two colors, butter yellow and cream. They swap from round to round so that each layer of the mandala stands out: a yellow center, cream petals, a yellow ring, a cream outline, yellow mesh and scallops, and a cream edge.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished dream catcher is 9 in (22.9 cm) wide and about 26 in (66.0 cm) long from the top of the hanging loop to the tip of the longest tassel. The mandala alone is 8 in (20.3 cm) across.
Here is how it goes together. You crochet the mandala in nine joined rounds and wrap the hoop with yarn. Then you tie each scallop tip to the hoop. Last, you make the daisies, leaves and tassels and hang them on chain cords.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 9 in (22.9 cm) wide x 26 in (66.0 cm) long
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (3) cotton
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 1 mandala, 1 hoop, 7 daisies, 5 leaves, 5 tassels, 5 cords, 1 hanging loop
- Layout: the mandala sits centered in the hoop, a daisy sits at 3 and at 9 o’clock, and 5 strands hang from the bottom of the hoop
- Mandala size: 8 in (20.3 cm)
- Mandala size before the border (after Round 7): 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
- Border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm) on each side
Materials
Use a smooth mercerized or combed DK cotton, roughly 50 g / 125 m per ball. Cotton shows the stitches clearly and keeps the petals crisp. Acrylic will work, but it gives softer, less defined petals.
- Color A, butter yellow: 75 g (about 188 m) for the mandala rounds, daisy centers, leaves, cords, hoop wrap and 3 tassels
- Color B, cream: 40 g (about 100 m) for the petals, outline rounds, daisy petals and 2 tassels
These quantities include roughly a 15% margin.
Tools:
– 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
– 9 in (22.9 cm) metal or wooden ring
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– A piece of cardboard 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall for the tassels
– Rustproof pins and a blocking mat
– Fabric glue (optional, for the hoop wrap ends)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sp(s): space(s)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- MR: magic ring
- rep: repeat
Shell petal: 7 dc in the same stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: Rounds 1–2 of the mandala measure 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
Work Rounds 1 and 2 first and measure them before you go on. Use these checkpoints, laid flat without stretching:
- After Round 2: 2 in (5.1 cm)
- After Round 3: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
- After Round 5: 5 in (12.7 cm)
- After Round 6: 5.5 in (14.0 cm)
- After Round 7: 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
- After Round 8: 7.25 in (18.4 cm)
- After Round 9: 8 in (20.3 cm)
If it’s too big by more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm), go down to a 3.25 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 3.75 mm hook. Size matters most at Round 9, because the tips need a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) gap to the hoop on every side.
Mandala
Center
Round 1 (A): Make a MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 15 dc in the ring, and join with a sl st to the top of ch-3. Pull the ring closed. (16 dc)
Round 2 (A): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st, then 2 dc in each st around. Join. (32 dc) Fasten off.
Petals
Round 3 (B): Join B in any st. Sc in the next st, skip 1, shell petal in the next st, skip 1. Rep from * 8 times total. Join to the first sc. (8 sc + 56 dc = 64 sts, 8 petals) Fasten off.
Each repeat uses 4 stitches of Round 2, and 8 x 4 = 32, so all of Round 2 is used.
Yellow Ring
Round 4 (A): Join A in the 4th (center) dc of any petal. Sc in that dc, ch 7, sc in the 4th dc of the next petal. Continue around so you end up with 8 sc and 8 ch-7 sps. Join to the first sc.
The ch-7 sps run behind the dips between the petals, so the petals stay standing in front.
Round 5 (A): Sl st into the first ch-7 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 7 dc in the same sp. Dc in the next sc, 8 dc in the next ch-7 sp. Rep from * 6 more times, then dc in the last sc. Join. (72 dc) Fasten off.
Each repeat is 9 dc, and 9 x 8 = 72.
Cream Outline
Round 6 (B): Join B in any dc. Sc in each of the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Rep from * 8 times total. Join. (80 sc) Fasten off.
Mesh
Round 7 (A): Join A in any sc, ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), skip 1. Dc in the next st, ch 2, skip 1. Rep from * around. Join to the 3rd ch of ch-5. (40 dc, 40 ch-2 sps)
That works out to 5 ch-2 sps for each future scallop. Do not fasten off.
Border (Scallops and Edging)
Border gauge: each scallop is about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) along the outer edge after blocking. The two border rounds together add 0.75 in (1.9 cm) on each side.
Round 8 (A): Sl st into the next ch-2 sp. Work this repeat over 5 ch-2 sps: sc in sp 1, 3 dc in sp 2, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in sp 3, 3 dc in sp 4, sc in sp 5. Rep 8 times total and join. Fasten off.
Per scallop that is 2 sc + 12 dc = 14 sts, plus 1 ch-2 tip. Around the whole piece it is 16 sc, 96 dc and 8 ch-2 tips.
Round 9 (B): Join B in the first sc of any scallop. Sc in each sc and dc. At each tip, work (sc, ch 5, sc) in the ch-2 sp. Join and fasten off.
This is a trim round. Each scallop gets 14 sc worked one per existing stitch, plus 2 sc added at the tip, for 16 sc. Around the piece that is 128 sc and 8 ch-5 loops.
Why the math works: Round 7 has 40 sps, and 40 / 5 = 8 scallops. Round 8 uses exactly 5 sps per scallop, and Round 9 covers every stitch of Round 8 one for one. The only stitches added are at the 8 tips. That growth points the tips outward instead of making the edge ruffle.
Make All Pieces
Daisy (make 7)
Round 1 (A): MR, ch 1, 12 sc in the ring. Join. (12 sc) Fasten off.
Round 2 (B): Join B in any sc. Sl st in the next sc, then (ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in the next sc. Rep from * 6 times total. (6 petals)
Each daisy is 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.
Leaf (make 5, with A)
Ch 10.
Side 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, sc. Then work 3 sc in the last ch.
Side 2: Working along the other side of the chain, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. (19 sts)
Vein: Surface sl st up the center from the base to the tip.
Each leaf is 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long.
Tassel (make 3 in A and 2 in B)
- Wrap the yarn 40 times around the 4.5 in (11.4 cm) cardboard.
- Tie the top with an 8 in (20.3 cm) strand.
- Cut the bottom loops.
- Wrap the neck 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top.
- Trim the tassel to 4 in (10.2 cm).
Hoop Wrap and Loop
Wrap the 9 in (22.9 cm) ring tightly in A, with the wraps touching. Glue or stitch the ends.
For the hanging loop, ch 15 with A and fold it to make a 2 in (5.1 cm) loop. Sew it to the top of the hoop.
Strand Layout
The cords are chains in A. Measure each cord from the hoop to the top of its tassel.
Strand: S1 S2 S3 S4 S5
Top: Leaf Daisy Leaf Daisy Leaf
Middle: Daisy Leaf Daisy Leaf Daisy
Tassel: Yellow Cream Yellow Cream Yellow
Cord: 7 in 9 in 11 in 9 in 7 in
17.8cm 22.9cm 27.9cm 22.9cm 17.8cm
Hoop sides: 1 daisy at 3 o'clock, 1 daisy at 9 o'clock
The totals are 7 daisies (5 on strands and 2 on the hoop), 5 leaves and 5 tassels.
Sew the leaves and daisies flat onto their cords. Space the pieces 1 in (2.5 cm) apart and leave 1 in (2.5 cm) above each tassel.
Joining
Method: Center the mandala inside the hoop. Using A and a tapestry needle, pass yarn through each ch-5 tip loop and wrap it around the hoop 3 times. Secure it on the back.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: The 8 tips divide the circle evenly, 45 degrees apart. Tie the 12, 6, 3 and 9 o’clock tips first, then the four tips in between. This keeps the mandala centered.
Tension: Each tie should pull the tip toward the hoop until the 0.5 in (1.3 cm) gap is even all around. Pull it snug but not drum-tight, so the mandala lies flat. If you overpull one tip, the petals will twist.
Strands: Tie S3 at 6 o’clock, then tie the other strands 1.5 in (3.8 cm) apart along the hoop on each side. Sew a daisy over the hoop at 3 and at 9 o’clock.
Size checkpoint: The width across the hoop should be 9 in (22.9 cm). The length from the loop to the tip of the S3 tassel should be 26 in (66.0 cm).
Final Blocking
- Before you tie the mandala to the hoop, wet it and roll it gently in a towel.
- Pin it to 8 in (20.3 cm) on the mat, starting with one pin at each of the 8 tips.
- Pin each petal into a rounded shape and each scallop into a point.
- Let it dry completely.
- Steam the leaves flat and straighten the tassels with steam.
- Join the mandala to the hoop once everything is dry.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Round 9 has 128 sc and 8 ch-5 loops.
- All 8 petals are the same size and the 8 scallops line up with them.
- The gap to the hoop is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on every side.
- The hoop wrap is tight with no gaps.
- The strand lengths mirror each other: 7, 9, 11, 9 and 7 in.
- Every tassel is trimmed to 4 in (10.2 cm).
- All yarn ends are woven in on the back.
Troubleshooting
- The mandala cups: your tension is tight in Rounds 5–6. Try a larger hook or loosen your ch-7 sps.
- The mandala ruffles: your Round 7 chains are too long. Keep each ch-2 snug.
- The petals lean: in Round 4, make sure you worked into the 4th dc of each shell.
- The tips don’t reach the hoop: add a ch to each tip loop (ch 6) or use a 8.5 in (21.6 cm) ring.
- The mandala is off-center: retie it in the cross order (12, 6, 3, 9 o’clock first).
- The tassels are thin: use 50 wraps instead of 40.
Care
Dust it gently, or spot-clean it with cool water and mild soap. Dry it flat away from direct sunlight so the yellow doesn’t fade.
Final Notes
The measurement chain runs like this: Rounds 1–2 measure 2 in (5.1 cm), Round 7 measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm), and the bordered mandala measures 8 in (20.3 cm). That mandala sits inside a 9 in (22.9 cm) hoop with a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) gap all around. The 11 in (27.9 cm) center cord and 4 in (10.2 cm) tassel bring the total length to 26 in (66.0 cm). If you check each step against these numbers, the finished piece will hang flat and balanced.
Happy crocheting!