This whale keeps plastic grocery bags tidy and looks nice in the kitchen. Its round sage-green head has two black eyes and a cream chin band. Below the head, an open honeycomb mesh body shows the bags inside. Two oval flippers with cream rims stick out at the shoulders, and you pull the bags out through a cream cuff at the bottom.
The design uses two colors, sage green and cream, in a soft coastal style. It suits a farmhouse kitchen, a laundry room or a pantry door. A light blue body with the same cream accents also works if you want a second whale.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 21.5 in (54.6 cm) long from crown to cuff, not counting the hanging loop. The body is about 7 in (17.8 cm) wide when flat.
Construction is simple. You work the head from the top down in joined rounds of single crochet and switch to cream for the chin. Then you go straight into the mesh body without fastening off and finish with the cream cuff. You make the flippers and strap separately and sew them on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 21.5 in (54.6 cm) long, 7 in (17.8 cm) wide flat at the mesh body
- Skill level: Advanced beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 main piece (head, body and cuff worked as one) + 2 flippers + 1 hanging strap
- Layout: Vertical tube, with the head at the top, the mesh in the middle and the cuff at the bottom
- Head size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
- Size before border: 20 in (50.8 cm), crown to last mesh round
- Border (cuff) depth: 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Flipper size: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) long, 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide
Materials
Use a smooth, firm worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the mesh open and won’t sag much under the weight of the bags. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylic. With that kind of yarn the honeycomb holes close up and the body stretches longer.
Yarn:
– Sage green (main color, MC): 150 g / 240 m
– Cream (contrast color, CC): 40 g / 65 m
These amounts include a margin of about 15%, so you won’t run short if your tension is a little loose.
Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Two 10 mm black safety eyes
– Stitch marker
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Straight pins
– Measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp(s) – space(s)
- sk – skip
- MR – magic ring
- inc – 2 sc in same st
- MC / CC – main color / contrast color
Special stitch – mesh loop: sc in the given ch-sp, then ch 4. One loop is 1 sc plus 1 ch-4 sp.
Join every round with a sl st to the first sc. The ch 1 at the start of a round never counts as a stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Sc gauge: 16 sts and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Mesh gauge: 4 mesh loops = 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide, 4 rnds = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, measured relaxed
Make the head first and use it as your gauge test. The mesh and cuff counts depend on it.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 8: the flat circle is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
– After Rnd 20: the head is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 41: the piece is 20 in (50.8 cm) from crown to last mesh round.
– After Rnd 48: the total length is 21.5 in (54.6 cm).
If the head is wider than 6 in (15.2 cm), change to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is narrower, change to a 5.5 mm hook. If only the mesh is too long, work fewer mesh rounds. Each round you leave out takes off about 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Head (MC, then CC)
Work in joined rounds. Mark the first st of each round.
Rnd 1: With MC, 6 sc in MR, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next st, inc) 6 times, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, inc) 6 times, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, inc) 6 times, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, inc) 6 times, join. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, inc) 6 times, join. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, (sc in next 6 sts, inc) 6 times, join. (48 sts)
Check: the circle is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
Rnds 9–16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sts)
The sides now turn down into a dome.
Eyes: The joins run up the back of the head. Find the front center, which is the st directly opposite the join. Insert the safety eyes between Rnds 13 and 14, 5 sts to each side of front center, so they are 10 sts apart. Lock the backs now while the inside is easy to reach.
Rnds 17–20: Change to CC in the last sl st of Rnd 16. Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sts)
This makes the cream chin band, 4 rounds or about 0.9 in (2.3 cm) deep. Change to MC in the last sl st of Rnd 20. Cut the CC, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Checkpoint: the head is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
Mesh Body (MC)
Rnd 21 (trim round): Ch 1, (sc in next st, ch 3, sk next 2 sts) 16 times, join.
Count: 16 sc + 16 ch-3 sps. Of the 48 sts in Rnd 20, you work 16 and skip 32, so 48 divides evenly by 3.
Rnd 22: Sl st in first ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-3 sp, ch 4, (sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 4) 15 times, join. (16 mesh loops)
Rnds 23–41: Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in same ch-4 sp, ch 4, (sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4) 15 times, join. (16 mesh loops)
The sl sts move the start of each round to the middle of a loop. This staggers the sc so the holes form a honeycomb. The relaxed mesh is about 14 in (35.6 cm) around, or 7 in (17.8 cm) flat.
Checkpoint: the piece is 20 in (50.8 cm) from crown to last mesh round. The 20 mesh rounds add 15 in (38.1 cm), and Rnd 21 adds about 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Flippers (Make 2)
Each flipper is a flat oval worked around a foundation chain.
Rnd 1: With MC, ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the other side of the chain, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in same ch as first sc, join. (14 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, inc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 4 sts, inc in each of last 2 sts, join. (20 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc, sc in next 4 sts, (sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 4 sts, (sc in next st, inc) 2 times, join. (26 sts)
Change to CC in the last sl st.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (sc in next 12 sts, inc) 2 times, join. (28 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 6 sts, inc) 4 times, join. (32 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) CC tail for sewing. The flipper lies flat and measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) by 2.25 in (5.7 cm), with a cream rim two rounds wide.
Hanging Strap (MC)
Row 1: Ch 33, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (32 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (32 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap is 8 in (20.3 cm) long and about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
Assembly
- Strap: Fold the strap into a loop. Sew one end on each side of the MR, with the ends 1 in (2.5 cm) apart. The loop stands about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the crown: (8 in − 1 in) ÷ 2 = 3.5 in. Sew through both layers twice for strength.
- Flippers: Pin one flipper on each side, at 3 and 9 o’clock, level with the eyes. Put the narrow end against Rnds 21–23, just below the cream chin, and angle the wide end up and out.
- Whipstitch about 1 in (2.5 cm) of each flipper edge to the sc posts and chains of the mesh. Keep the stitches inside the cream rim so they barely show.
- Weave in all ends on the inside of the head.
Border: Bottom Cuff
The cuff is the only border on this holder. It narrows the opening so the bags come out one at a time.
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the head.
Rnd 42 (conversion round, MC): Sl st in next 2 ch, ch 1, 2 sc in same ch-4 sp, 2 sc in each of next 15 ch-4 sps, join.
Count: 16 sc (1 per sp) + 16 extra sc = 32 sts. That is 16 sts per side when flat.
Rnds 43–48 (CC): Change to CC in the last sl st of Rnd 42. Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (32 sts; 16 sts per side flat)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: 16 loops × 2 sc = 32 sts. At 4 sts per inch, 32 sts measure 8 in (20.3 cm) around, or 4 in (10.2 cm) flat. That pulls the 7 in (17.8 cm) body into a firm opening that one bag can pass through. The cuff’s 7 rounds add 1.5 in (3.8 cm), so 20 in + 1.5 in = 21.5 in (54.6 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lay the holder flat with the eyes centered on top.
- Pin the mesh to 7 in (17.8 cm) wide and 15 in (38.1 cm) long, opening each honeycomb hole evenly.
- Pin the cuff to 4 in (10.2 cm) wide and the head to 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
- Hold a steam iron 1 in (2.5 cm) above the work and steam it. Never press down, and keep the steam away from the safety eyes.
- While the flippers are still damp, flatten them with your fingers.
- Let it dry completely, about 2 hours, before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The head is 48 sts around, and the cream band is exactly 4 rounds deep.
- The eyes are 10 sts apart between Rnds 13 and 14 and locked tight.
- Every mesh round has 16 loops.
- The cuff is 32 sts around and 4 in (10.2 cm) flat.
- The flippers match, sit level with each other and have a full cream rim.
- The strap is sewn on firmly and holds a full load of bags.
- The total length is 21.5 in (54.6 cm).
Troubleshooting
The head cups too early: Your tension is tight in Rnds 1–8. Use a hook one size larger for those rounds only.
The mesh leans or spirals: Make sure you sl st into exactly 2 ch every round. Count 16 loops after each round.
The mesh holes look closed: The yarn is too stretchy or the chains are too tight. Loosen the ch-4 loops or switch to a firmer cotton.
The flippers ruffle: Leave out the Rnd 5 increases and work 28 sc instead.
The flippers curl into a cup: Add 2 more inc, spaced evenly, in Rnd 5.
Bags fall out: Work the cuff with a 4.5 mm hook. Or make 30 sts in Rnd 42 by working only 1 sc in two of the sps.
Loading bags: Push bundled bags up through the cuff into the head and mesh. Pull them out one at a time from the bottom.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping the mesh while it is damp. Don’t machine dry, because heat can loosen the safety eyes.
Final Notes
The measurements build in a short chain that is easy to check. The 48-st head is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall. Rnd 21 divides those 48 sts into 16 mesh loops, and 20 mesh rounds add 15 in (38.1 cm). The 32-st cuff adds 1.5 in (3.8 cm), for a total of 21.5 in (54.6 cm). If your gauge is right at the head, every measurement after it will be too. Make one in sage, then hang a light blue whale beside it.
Happy crocheting!