Cream crocheted bag dispensers decorated with yellow lemons and white daisies, topped with wooden rings against a terracotta wall.

Lemon Blossom Plastic Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

by

This holder keeps plastic bags out of the cabinet and in one tidy place. It’s a cream cotton tube with an open diamond mesh, a butter-yellow band of round shell “circles” at the top, and an oval dispensing opening near the bottom. A sewn-on lemon, sage leaves and two little daisies give it a fresh, country-kitchen look.

The palette is cream, butter yellow, sage green and white. For a softer look, swap the yellow trim for sage and keep the lemon yellow. Everything else stays the same.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) in diameter and 17.75 in (45.1 cm) tall, not counting the strap and ring.

You work the body in one piece from the bottom up. First comes a flat circle base, then a solid section with a built-in opening, then the mesh, then the shell band. A short strap wraps around a wooden ring. You make the appliqués separately and sew them on.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) diameter × 17.75 in (45.1 cm) tall; laid flat, about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hooks: 5 mm (H-8) for the body, 4 mm (G-6) for the appliqués
  • Number of pieces: 1 body plus 8 appliqués (1 lemon, 4 leaves, 2 daisies, 1 vine)
  • Layout: single tube, opening at center front, strap at center back
  • Circumference: 60 sts = 15 in (38.1 cm)
  • Height before the band: about 16.25 in (41.3 cm)
  • Band depth: about 1.5 in (3.8 cm)

Materials

Use a smooth, mercerized or combed worsted cotton, around 170 m per 100 g. Cotton holds the tube’s shape and doesn’t stretch out under the weight of the bags.

  • Cream (body, strap): 70 g / 120 m
  • Butter yellow (band, opening edging, lemon, daisy centers): 25 g / 43 m
  • Sage green (leaves, vine): 10 g / 17 m
  • White (daisy petals): 5 g / 9 m

These amounts include a margin of about 15% for gauge swatches and differences between yarns.

Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) and 4 mm (G-6) hooks
– 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
– Tapestry needle
– 4 locking stitch markers
– Rustproof pins
– Spray bottle
– A tube about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across for blocking, such as a rolled towel or a canister

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • BLO – back loop only
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
  • sk – skip
  • sp – space
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • MR – magic ring
  • Rnd – round

Special stitch: dc5tog (5-double-crochet cluster). Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * across 5 sts (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.

Joining note: Unless stated otherwise, join every round with a sl st in the first st, and the ch 1 at the start of a round never counts as a stitch.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Body gauge (5 mm hook): 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Mesh gauge: 3 mesh rounds = 2 in (5.1 cm).

The base is your swatch. Work Rnds 1–10, then measure.

  • After Rnd 10: the circle is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
  • After Rnd 27: the solid section is about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
  • Raw opening: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall.
  • After Rnd 45: total height is about 15.75 in (40.0 cm).
  • After Rnd 51: total height is about 17.75 in (45.1 cm).

If your base is larger than 4.75 in (12.1 cm), go down half a hook size. If it’s smaller, go up half a size. If the base ruffles, your rounds are too loose for the increases, so go down a size. If it cups, go up a size.

Bright yellow crocheted lemon with green leaves and white daisy flowers on cream lattice background.

Body

Base

With cream and the 5 mm hook:

  • Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  • Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. (12)
  • Rnd 3: Sc 1, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (18)
  • Rnd 4: Sc 2, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (24)
  • Rnd 5: Sc 3, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (30)
  • Rnd 6: Sc 4, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (36)
  • Rnd 7: Sc 5, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (42)
  • Rnd 8: Sc 6, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (48)
  • Rnd 9: Sc 7, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (54)
  • Rnd 10: Sc 8, 2 sc in next; repeat around. (60)

Check: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.

Solid Lower Section with Dispensing Opening

  • Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st. (60) This makes the crisp turn from base to wall.
  • Rnds 12–14: Ch 1, sc in each st. (60)

Now work the opening. Rows 15–24 go back and forth over 44 sts and leave the last 16 sts of Rnd 14 unworked. Those 16 sts are center front.

  • Row 15: Ch 1, sc in first 44 sts; turn. (44)
  • Rows 16–24: Ch 1, sc in each st; turn. (44)

You now have 10 rows, which is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm). Row 24 ends above the first stitch.

  • Rnd 25: Ch 1, sc in each of the 44 sts, ch 16, then join with a sl st to the first sc. (44 sc + 16 ch = 60)
  • Rnd 26: Ch 1, sc in each sc and in each ch. (60)
  • Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc in each st. (60)

Check: the solid wall is about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall, and the opening is 4 in (10.2 cm) wide.

Diamond Mesh Body

  • Rnd 28 (setup): Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk 3, sc in next st; repeat from * 13 more times. Then ch 2, sk 3, and dc in the first sc. (15 loops) The ch 2 plus dc makes the last loop and leaves your hook at the center of that loop.
  • Rnds 29–45: Ch 1, sc around the post of the joining dc, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 sp; repeat from * 13 more times. Then ch 2 and dc in the first sc. (15 loops)

That makes 18 mesh rounds, or 12 in (30.5 cm). Check: total height is about 15.75 in (40.0 cm). Measure with the tube hanging, because the mesh settles under its own weight.

Back to Solid

  • Rnd 46 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in top of joining dc, 3 sc in next ch-5 sp, sc in next sc; repeat from * 13 more times. Then work 3 sc in the final ch-2/dc loop and join. (15 sc over sc + 45 sc in loops = 60)
  • Rnd 47: Ch 1, sc in each st. (60) Fasten off cream.

Lemon-Slice Shell Band

  • Rnd 48: Join yellow in any st. Ch 1, sc in each st. (60)
  • Rnd 49: Ch 1, sc in first st, sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, sc in next st; repeat from * 8 more times. Then sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk 2, and join to the first sc. (10 shells, 10 sc = 60 sts)
  • Rnd 50: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 2, dc5tog over the next 5 dc, ch 2, sc in next sc; repeat from * 8 more times. Then ch 2, dc5tog, ch 2, and join to the first sc. (10 clusters, 10 sc, 20 ch-2 sps)

Each shell and the cluster above it close into a round “slice.”

  • Rnd 51: Ch 1, sc in sc, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc in cluster, 2 sc in ch-2 sp; repeat around. (6 × 10 = 60) Fasten off.

The sc points dip slightly, which gives the top edge its gentle scallop.

Check: the band is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall, and the body is about 17.75 in (45.1 cm) tall.

Hanging Strap

Lay the tube flat with the opening centered on the front. Mark the 6 sts of Rnd 51 at the center back.

  • Row 1: Join cream in the first marked st. Ch 1, sc in the 6 marked sts; turn. (6)
  • Rows 2–24: Ch 1, sc in each st; turn. (6)

The strap measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide × about 5.25 in (13.3 cm) long. Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.

Wrap the strap from front to back around the ring. Whipstitch the last row to the inside of the tube behind Rnds 48–50. About 1.25 in (3.2 cm) of strap goes around the ring, which leaves about 2 in (5.1 cm) of strap showing between the band and the ring.

Appliqués

Use the 4 mm hook and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail on each piece for sewing.

Lemon (make 1, yellow)

Ch 7.

  • Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 5 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: sc in next 5 ch, 2 sc in the same ch as the first sc. Join. (16)
  • Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc 5, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts, sc 5, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. Join. (22)
  • Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, [sc, 2 sc in next] 3 times, sc in next 5 sts, [sc, 2 sc in next] 2 times. Join. (28)
  • Rnd 4 (trim): Ch 1, sc in first 12 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st, sc in next 13 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next st, sc in last st. Join. (28 worked 1 per st + 2 extra sc = 30 sc, plus 2 ch-2 tips)

The lemon measures 2.75 × 1.75 in (7.0 × 4.4 cm).

Leaf (make 4, sage)

Ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, and work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch for the tip. Working along the other side of the chain: hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Sl st to first sc. (12 sts + ch-2 tip)

Each leaf is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long.

Daisy (make 2)

  • Rnd 1: With yellow, 10 sc in MR. Join. (10) Fasten off.
  • Rnd 2: Join white with a sl st in any sc. (Ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) all in next sc, sl st in next sc; repeat from * 4 more times, ending the last repeat in the joining st. (5 petals)

Each daisy is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.

Vine (make 1, sage)

Ch 20. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (19 sl st) The vine is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long.

Placement

Slide a piece of cardboard inside the tube so you only sew through the front layer. Then place:

  • Daisy 1 about 1 in (2.5 cm) below the band, left of center
  • The vine running diagonally down to the right
  • The lemon centered about 5 in (12.7 cm) below the band, tilted slightly
  • Daisy 2 low on the right, at least 1 in (2.5 cm) above the solid section
  • Two leaves beside Daisy 1, one at the top of the lemon, and one beside Daisy 2

Pin everything in place. Sew the edges to the mesh sc’s and chains with the tails, using small hidden stitches.

Border: Dispensing Opening Edging

Border gauge: same as the body, 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).

The opening has four edges:

  • Bottom: the 16 unworked sts of Rnd 14
  • Top: the 16 ch of Rnd 25
  • Two sides: 10 row ends each

With the 5 mm hook, join yellow at the bottom right corner.

  • Rnd 1: Ch 1. Work 16 sc across the bottom, 10 sc up the left side (1 per row end), 16 sc across the underside of the top chains, and 10 sc down the right side. Join. (16 + 10 + 16 + 10 = 52)
  • Rnd 2: Ch 1. Bottom: sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog (14 sts). Left side: sc 10. Top: sc2tog, sc 12, sc2tog (14 sts). Right side: sc 10. Join. (14 + 10 + 14 + 10 = 48) Fasten off.

Why the math works: Rnd 1 matches the edges one-to-one. The bottom and top each have 16 sts, so they get 16 sc, and each row end gets 1 sc. Because the edging is worked on the inside of the hole, each round sits on a smaller loop than the one before. The 4 decreases in Rnd 2 fall at the ends of the long edges, so they pull the square corners into curves and the rectangle turns into a flat oval.

The two rounds take about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) off each dimension. That leaves a finished opening of about 3 × 1.25 in (7.6 × 3.2 cm), wide enough to pull bags through but snug enough to hold the next one.

Final Blocking

  1. Block the appliqués flat before you sew them on: mist them, pin them to shape, point the lemon tips and leaf tips, and let them dry.
  2. Slide the tube over a form about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
  3. Mist the body evenly until it’s damp, not soaked.
  4. Pull the mesh lengthwise so the diamonds open evenly to a total height of 17.75 in (45.1 cm).
  5. Shape the opening into a smooth oval with your fingers.
  6. Pinch each round “slice” in the band into shape.
  7. Let it dry completely on the form, then remove it.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • The base lies flat and measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
  • Every mesh round has 15 loops, with no twisting or spiraling.
  • The opening is centered on the front and is a smooth oval, about 3 × 1.25 in (7.6 × 3.2 cm).
  • The band has 10 evenly spaced circles.
  • The strap is centered at the back, opposite the opening, and is sewn securely.
  • The appliqués lie flat with no puckering in the mesh behind them.
  • All ends are woven in on the inside.

Troubleshooting

  • Mesh slants or drifts: Make sure each round starts with the sc around the joining dc and has exactly 15 loops.
  • Opening is lumpy at the corners: Redo Rnd 2 of the edging and keep the sc2tog exactly at the ends of the long edges.
  • Band ruffles: Your dc5tog loops are uneven. Pull each loop up to the full dc height before closing the cluster.
  • Holder is too short: Add mesh rounds in multiples of 3; each 3 rounds adds 2 in (5.1 cm).
  • Appliqués pucker the mesh: Keep the sewing stitches loose, and keep the cardboard inside while you sew.

Care

Hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat or on the blocking form. Don’t wring or tumble dry.

Hand dispensing plastic bags from cream crocheted holders adorned with yellow lemons and flowers on wooden cabinet doors.

Final Notes

Here’s the measurement chain, piece by piece:

  • A 60-stitch base 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across sets a 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference.
  • The solid section adds 3.75 in (9.5 cm) and holds the 16-stitch opening.
  • The 15-loop mesh adds 12 in (30.5 cm).
  • The conversion round and Rnd 47 bring the tube back to 60 sts, ready for the 10-circle band.
  • The band brings the holder to 17.75 in (45.1 cm).

Check each stage against these numbers before you move on, and the finished holder will hang straight and dispense neatly.

Happy crocheting!

Leave a Comment