This little lace tree is a quick, flat Christmas ornament worked in one soft pale butter yellow. Rows of 3-double-crochet groups build a triangle from the point down, and the way the groups stack leaves a neat pattern of small diamond holes. When it hangs on a lit tree, the light shows through them.
A firm single crochet border keeps the three edges straight and crisp. A small solid trunk sits centered under the base, and a sturdy chain-cord loop at the top point makes it ready to hang. The look is simple and classic, so it suits a natural, cream-and-gold, or Scandinavian tree.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ornament is about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall from point to trunk, plus a 2.5 in (6.4 cm) hanging loop, for an overall hanging length of about 6.75 in (17.1 cm).
Construction is straightforward. You work the lace triangle in turned rows starting from a magic ring at the top point, then add a single crochet border in one round. Next you work the trunk in short rows off the center of the bottom edge, and last comes the hanging loop at the point. It is all one piece, with no sewing or joining.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide × 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall, plus a 2.5 in (6.4 cm) loop
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (#3), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 1 (single ornament)
- Layout: One triangle with a trunk below and a loop above
- Lace triangle (Rows 1–6): 3.375 in (8.6 cm) wide × 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
- Size before border: 3.375 in (8.6 cm) × 3 in (7.6 cm)
- Border depth: about 0.2 in (0.5 cm), one round of single crochet
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth DK cotton or cotton blend in pale butter yellow. Mercerized or tightly plied cotton shows the lace groups clearly and holds its shape on the tree. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they fill in the diamond holes.
- Pale butter yellow: 8 g, about 20 m (22 yd), per ornament
This quantity includes a margin for the gauge swatch, the hanging loop, and weaving in ends. One 50 g ball of DK cotton makes about six ornaments.
Tools:
- 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker (1)
- Ruler or tape measure
- Blocking mat and rustproof pins
- Spray bottle with water
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- t-ch – turning chain
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – Group: 3 dc worked into the same stitch or space. At the start of a row, “ch 3, 2 dc in the first st” counts as one group, because the ch-3 counts as a dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge is measured on the ornament itself, so make one tree and check the size before you make a batch.
- After Row 2: about 1.125 in (2.9 cm) wide across the bottom edge, 1 in (2.5 cm) tall
- After Row 4: about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide across the bottom edge, 2 in (5.1 cm) tall
- After Row 6: 3.375 in (8.6 cm) wide, 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
- After the border: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- After the trunk: 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall in total
Each lace row adds about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of height and about 0.5625 in (1.4 cm) of width.
Too big? Go down to a 3.25 mm (D-3) hook, or snug up your dc so the tops sit firmly. Too small? Go up to a 3.75 mm (F-5) hook. If the triangle comes out flat and wide but the height is right, your ch-1 spaces are too loose. Keep each ch-1 to the same size as a stitch top.
Lace Triangle
You start at the top point and work down. Each row adds one group, so Row n has n groups, 3n dc, and (n – 1) ch-1 spaces. Turn at the end of every row.
Row 1 (RS): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring. Pull the ring tightly closed. Turn. (1 group: 3 dc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first st (the st at the base of the ch-3), ch 1, skip the next dc, 3 dc in top of t-ch. Turn. (2 groups: 6 dc, 1 ch-1 sp)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in top of t-ch. Turn. (3 groups: 9 dc, 2 ch-1 sps)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 2 times, ch 1, 3 dc in top of t-ch. Turn. (4 groups: 12 dc, 3 ch-1 sps)
Checkpoint: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide across the bottom edge and 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
Row 5 (RS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch 1, 3 dc in top of t-ch. Turn. (5 groups: 15 dc, 4 ch-1 sps)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times, ch 1, 3 dc in top of t-ch. Do not fasten off. (6 groups: 18 dc, 5 ch-1 sps = 23 sts)
Checkpoint: 3.375 in (8.6 cm) wide and 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
Why the diamonds form: Each new group sits in the ch-1 space between two groups below, so the groups stack in brick fashion. The middle dc of each lower group is never worked into, and the ch-1 bridges over it. That leaves a small diamond-shaped opening at the center of every group and between every pair of groups. The edge groups fan out from the first and last stitch, which gives the sides their steady outward slope.
Border
Border gauge: about 13 sc = 2 in (5.1 cm) along the bottom edge. The slanted sides are bias edges and stretch slightly, so they take 3 sc per row end to stay flat.
Border Round (RS): Ch 1, turn so the RS faces you. The ch-1 does not count as a stitch.
- First bottom corner: 3 sc in first st (the last dc of Row 6).
- Bottom edge: Sc in next 2 dc, [sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 3 dc] 4 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next 2 dc. (21 sc)
- Second bottom corner: 3 sc in top of t-ch.
- First slanted side: Rotate to work along the row ends. Work 3 sc in the side of each of Rows 6, 5, 4, 3, and 2 (15 sc), then 2 sc in the side of Row 1 (17 sc on this side).
- Top point: Ch 2 (apex ch-2 sp).
- Second slanted side: 2 sc in the other side of Row 1, then 3 sc in the side of each of Rows 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. (17 sc)
- Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.
Border count: 21 (bottom) + 17 + 17 (sides) + 3 + 3 (corners) = 61 sc, plus the apex ch-2 sp.
Why the math works: The bottom edge is a conversion round. It uses 23 sts from Row 6 (18 dc + 5 ch-1 sps). Twenty-one of them get 1 sc each, and the 2 end dc get 3 sc each, so the edge has 21 + 2 stitches worked 1-per-existing-stitch plus 4 extra corner sc. Those 4 extra sc let the corners turn without pulling. Along the bottom, counting from corner center to corner center, there are 1 + 1 + 21 + 1 + 1 = 25 sts. That works out to about 3.85 in (9.8 cm) at border gauge, and the edge settles to 3.75 in (9.5 cm) once the corners round.
On the sides, each dc row end is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall and runs on a slant. Three sc per row end matches that length without flaring. Row 1 is narrower at the point, so it takes only 2 sc on each side. The ch-2 at the apex gives the point a crisp tip and a strong anchor for the loop.
Checkpoint: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide × 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Trunk
The trunk is worked in rows off the center 7 sts of the bottom edge. Hold the tree upside down with the RS facing you and the bottom edge on top. Start at the center sc of the right-hand corner group and call it st 1. Count along to st 10 and mark it. The bottom edge has 25 sts from corner center to corner center, so sts 10–16 are the center 7 sts, with exactly 9 sts free on each side.
Row 1 (RS): Join yarn with a sl st in st 10. Ch 1 (does not count), sc in same st and in next 6 sts. Turn. (7 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st across. Turn. (7 hdc)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st across. (7 hdc)
Fasten off, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail to weave in.
Checkpoint: The trunk measures about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide × 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep, and the whole ornament is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
Hanging Loop
- With the RS facing, join yarn with a sl st in the apex ch-2 sp.
- Ch 36.
- Sl st into the same apex ch-2 sp to close the loop.
- Turn and sl st in the back bump of each of the 36 ch around the loop. This firms the chain into a smooth, rounded cord.
- Sl st in the apex ch-2 sp again and fasten off.
The loop hangs about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) above the point. For a longer hanger, add 7 ch for every extra 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of hanging length.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the border on the WS. Do not weave through the lace, or you will close the diamond holes.
- Lightly mist the ornament with water until it is damp, not soaked.
- Lay it flat on the blocking mat, RS up.
- Pin the three corners first. Make the bottom edge 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide and set the point 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the bottom edge.
- Pin the trunk square, 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide.
- Use a pin tip to gently open each diamond hole so they are even.
- Straighten the hanging loop so it lies flat above the point.
- Let it dry completely, about 2–4 hours. For a stiffer ornament, brush on a light fabric stiffener before drying.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Row 6 has 6 groups (18 dc) and 5 ch-1 sps.
- The border has 61 sc plus an apex ch-2 sp.
- Each bottom corner has 3 sc, and the bottom edge has 21 sc between them.
- Each slanted side has 17 sc between the corner group and the apex.
- The trunk is centered, with 9 border sts free on each side.
- The trunk is 7 sts wide and 3 rows deep.
- The ornament measures 3.75 in (9.5 cm) × 4.25 in (10.8 cm).
- All diamond holes are open and evenly spaced.
- The loop is secure and about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) long.
- All ends are woven in on the WS.
Troubleshooting
The sides curve in or ripple. If the sides cup inward, the border row ends are too tight, so loosen your sc or check that every row end got 3 sc. If they ripple, your yarn may be thinner than DK. Work 2 sc in the side of Row 2 instead of 3.
The triangle leans to one side. You probably missed the group in the top of the t-ch at the end of a row. Count the groups at the end of each row: Row n should have n groups.
The diamond holes are closed up. Your ch-1 spaces are too tight, or the yarn is fuzzy. Make each ch-1 match the size of a stitch top, and block with the holes pinned open.
The trunk is off-center. Recount the bottom edge from corner center to corner center (25 sts). Join the trunk in st 10.
The point is blunt. Pull the magic ring fully closed before Row 2. Make sure the border ch-2 sits right at the tip.
The loop twists. Work the sl sts into the back bumps only, and keep them loose and even.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat, reshaping the point and corners. Store the ornaments flat in tissue between seasons so the loops do not crease.
Final Notes
Everything rests on a short chain of measurements. Six lace rows give a 3.375 in (8.6 cm) × 3 in (7.6 cm) triangle. One round of 61 sc brings it to 3.75 in (9.5 cm) × 3.5 in (8.9 cm). A 3-row trunk on the center 7 sts adds 0.75 in (1.9 cm) for a total height of 4.25 in (10.8 cm). The 36-ch cord adds a 2.5 in (6.4 cm) loop, for a hanging length of 6.75 in (17.1 cm). If your first tree hits these checkpoints, every ornament after it will match, so you can make a whole set for the tree or for gift toppers.
Happy crocheting!