The Garden Trellis Curtain is a lacy tab-top curtain panel made from six-petal flower motifs set in an open cream frame. Raspberry and sage flowers alternate in a checkerboard, and each flower has a small cream center. Light passes through the chain loops around every flower, so the panel softens sunlight without hiding the view.
The palette is soft and cottage-style: deep raspberry pink, muted sage green, and warm cream. Cream holds the design together. It forms the flower centers, the lace frame around each motif, the joins, the border, and the hanging tabs.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. One finished panel measures 32 x 74 in (81.3 x 188.0 cm) including the border. The tabs rise about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the top edge. The window in the photos has a matching pair, so make two panels for the same look.
The construction is simple and repetitive. Make 60 square flower motifs per panel and join them in a grid 5 across by 12 down. Then work a three-round border and add six tabs along the top. Every motif ends with exactly 20 stitches per side, so the joins and the border always line up.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished panel size: 32 x 74 in (81.3 x 188.0 cm), not including tabs
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 60 motifs per panel (120 for a pair), plus 6 tabs per panel
- Layout: 5 motifs across x 12 motifs down, in a raspberry and sage checkerboard
- Motif size: 6 x 6 in (15.2 x 15.2 cm) square
- Size before border: 30 x 72 in (76.2 x 182.9 cm)
- Border depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) on each side
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton, either mercerized or matte. Cotton holds the lace open, resists sagging, and stands up to washing and sunlight better than most acrylics. Use one yarn line for all three colors so they share the same thickness.
The amounts below assume about 170 m per 100 g. Each line gives the amount for one panel, with the total for a pair in brackets.
- Color A, Raspberry: 250 g / 425 m (500 g / 850 m)
- Color B, Sage: 250 g / 425 m (500 g / 850 m)
- Color C, Cream: 650 g / 1105 m (1300 g / 2210 m)
These amounts include a margin of about 15 percent for the gauge motif, yarn tails, and small differences in tension.
Tools:
- 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers (at least 6)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Blocking mats and rust-proof pins, or a carpet covered with clean towels
- Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- BLO – back loop only
Special stitch – Petal: In one ch-sp, work (sc, hdc, 2 dc, tr, ch 1, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc). Each petal has 10 stitches plus a ch-1 tip.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete motif before you buy the full amount of yarn. Block it lightly, let it dry, and measure it.
- Border gauge: 10 sc and 12 rows = 3 in (7.6 cm)
- After Round 1: the center circle is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across
- After Round 3: the flower is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across, tip to tip
- After Round 5: the square is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) per side
- After Round 6: the square is 6 in (15.2 cm) per side
If your motif is larger than 6 in (15.2 cm), use a hook half a millimeter smaller. If it is smaller, use a hook half a millimeter larger. Small errors add up: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per motif adds 1.25 in (3.2 cm) to the panel width and 3 in (7.6 cm) to its length.
Flower Motif
Work every round with the RS facing. Do not turn.
Round 1 (Color C): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 11 dc in the ring. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc) Pull the ring closed and fasten off.
Round 2 (Color A or B): Join the flower color with sl st in any dc. Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 4, skip next dc, *sc in next dc, ch 4, skip next dc; repeat from * 4 more times. Join with sl st to first sc. (6 sc, 6 ch-4 sps)
Round 3 (same flower color): Sl st into first ch-4 sp. Work 1 Petal in each ch-4 sp around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (6 petals: 60 sts plus 6 ch-1 tips)
The petals sit side by side, so the last sc of one petal sits next to the first sc of the next petal. The Round 2 sc is just below that gap.
Round 4 (Color C): Join cream with sc in any ch-1 petal tip. *Ch 5, sc in the Round 2 sc below the gap (insert the hook between the two petals), ch 5, sc in the next ch-1 petal tip; repeat from * around, leaving out the final sc. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
This round forms the open lattice around the flower. The loops alternate between petal tips and petal gaps, which gives 12 loops, or 3 for each side of the square.
Round 5 (Color C): Sl st into the first ch-5 loop, which is a corner. Ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in same loop, ch 2, 3 dc in next loop, ch 2, 3 dc in next loop, ch 2, *(3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next loop, ch 2, 3 dc in next loop, ch 2, 3 dc in next loop, ch 2; repeat from * 2 more times. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (48 dc, 4 corner ch-3 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)
Each side now has 12 dc and 3 ch-2 sps between the corner ch-3 sps. Petal tips that fall at the corners will lift slightly. This is normal, and they will flatten in blocking.
Round 6 (Color C): Sl st in next 2 dc and into the corner ch-3 sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in same sp, *[sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, sc in next 3 dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in next corner ch-3 sp; repeat from * 2 more times, [sc in next 3 dc, 2 sc in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, sc in next 3 dc. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (80 sc, 4 corner ch-2 sps)
Round 6 count check: Each side has 12 sc worked 1 per dc, 6 sc worked in the three ch-2 sps, and 1 corner sc at each end. That gives 12 + 6 + 2 = 20 sc per side, counting both corner sc. Four sides of 20 sc make 80 sc.
Weave in the tails on the WS as you finish each motif. That is much quicker than facing hundreds of tails at the end.
Make All Pieces
For one panel, make:
- 30 motifs with Color A (Raspberry) petals
- 30 motifs with Color B (Sage) petals
Double these numbers for a pair. Lay out the motifs in a checkerboard 5 across and 12 down, where A = Raspberry and B = Sage. Row 1 is the top row, under the tabs.
Row 1: A B A B A
Row 2: B A B A B
Row 3: A B A B A
Row 4: B A B A B
Row 5: A B A B A
Row 6: B A B A B
Row 7: A B A B A
Row 8: B A B A B
Row 9: A B A B A
Row 10: B A B A B
Row 11: A B A B A
Row 12: B A B A B
Odd rows have 3 A and 2 B, and even rows have 2 A and 3 B. Six rows of each type give 30 A and 30 B.
Joining
Join with Color C using a slip-stitch seam worked in the BLO. Hold two motifs RS together and line up the edges you are joining.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Start with a sl st through both corner ch-2 sps. Next, sl st through the back loops of each pair of matching sc. There are 20 pairs, running from corner sc to corner sc. Finish with a sl st through the next pair of corner ch-2 sps. The seam adds no stitches, so it is exactly as long as one motif side.
Order: First join the motifs in each horizontal row into strips of 5. Then join the strips to each other along their long edges, with one continuous seam across all 5 motifs. Where four corners meet, sl st through the joined corner sps to carry the yarn to the next motif.
Tension: Keep the sl sts as loose as the sc they connect. A tight seam puckers and makes the panel shorter. If your seams feel stiff, use a hook one size larger for joining.
Size checkpoint: Lay the joined panel flat without stretching it. It should measure 30 x 72 in (76.2 x 182.9 cm), and each motif should still be a 6 in (15.2 cm) square.
Border
Work the whole border in Color C with the RS facing. It uses the same gauge as the motifs: 10 sc and 12 rows = 3 in (7.6 cm).
Starting count: Each motif side has 20 sc. The short edges have 5 motifs, so they start with 5 x 20 = 100 sc. The long edges have 12 motifs, so they start with 12 x 20 = 240 sc. Skip the joined corner ch-2 sps at each seam and go straight from the corner sc of one motif to the corner sc of the next.
Round 1: Join with sc in the first sc after the top-right corner ch-2 sp of the panel. Sc in each sc around. At each of the 4 panel corners, work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner ch-2 sp. Join with sl st to first sc.
- Short sides: 100 worked 1 per stitch + 2 added corner sc = 102 sc
- Long sides: 240 worked 1 per stitch + 2 added corner sc = 242 sc
- Total: 688 sc, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each sc around. At each corner, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner ch-2 sp. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.
- Short sides: 102 worked 1 per stitch + 4 added corner dc = 106 dc
- Long sides: 242 worked 1 per stitch + 4 added corner dc = 246 dc
- Total: 704 dc, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each dc around. At each corner, work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner ch-2 sp. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
- Short sides: 106 worked 1 per stitch + 2 added corner sc = 108 sc
- Long sides: 246 worked 1 per stitch + 2 added corner sc = 248 sc
- Total: 712 sc, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps
Why the math works: The border starts with exactly the stitches the motifs already have, so the edge doesn’t ruffle or pull in. Stitches are added only at the 4 panel corners, where the outer edge needs extra length to turn flat. The sc, dc, and sc rounds add about 1 in (2.5 cm) on each side. That takes the panel from 30 x 72 in (76.2 x 182.9 cm) to 32 x 74 in (81.3 x 188.0 cm).
Tabs
The top edge has 108 sc from border Round 3, counting the corner sc at each end. Make 6 tabs, each 8 sts wide, with 12 sts between tabs. Check: 6 tabs x 8 sts = 48, plus 5 gaps x 12 sts = 60, for a total of 108.
With the RS facing, number the top-edge sts from 1 to 108, right to left. Mark the tab positions before you start: sts 1–8, 21–28, 41–48, 61–68, 81–88, and 101–108.
Row 1: Join Color C in the first st of a tab section. Ch 1, sc in same st and in next 7 sts. (8 sc)
Rows 2–28: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (8 sc)
The tab is now about 7 in (17.8 cm) long. Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Fold the tab to the WS. Whipstitch its last row to the base of border Round 2, across the same 8 sts it started from. The finished loop stands about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the border and fits rods up to about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) in diameter.
Final Blocking
- Soak the panel in cool water with a little wool wash or mild soap.
- Roll the panel in towels and press gently to remove water. Do not wring it.
- Lay it flat on mats or towels, RS up, in its 5 x 12 grid shape.
- Measure the outer edge and pin it to 32 x 74 in (81.3 x 188.0 cm).
- Pin each point where four corners meet so every motif sits square at 6 in (15.2 cm).
- Use your fingers to smooth the petals out from the center and open the ch-5 loops of Round 4.
- Pin the tabs flat, keeping the loops open.
- Let the panel dry completely before you unpin it. A heavy cotton panel can take 24 to 48 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every motif has 80 sc in Round 6, with 20 sc per side.
- The colors follow the checkerboard, with no two motifs of the same color side by side.
- All seams lie flat, with no puckers where corners meet.
- The joined panel measured 30 x 72 in (76.2 x 182.9 cm) before the border.
- Border Round 3 has 108 sc on each short side and 248 sc on each long side.
- All 6 tabs are evenly spaced, the same length, and sewn on securely.
- All tails are woven in and trimmed.
- After blocking, the panel measures 32 x 74 in (81.3 x 188.0 cm).
Troubleshooting
Petals ruffle or cup. The Round 2 ch-4 spaces are too short for your tension. Try ch 5 instead, or work Round 3 more loosely.
Motif won’t lie square. Recount Round 4. You need 12 loops, and a missing loop pushes a corner out of place. Blocking can fix small distortion but not a wrong count.
Motifs vary in size. Tension often changes between colors and over a long project. Measure each motif and re-block any that are more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm) off before joining.
Seams pucker. The slip stitches are too tight. Pull them out and rejoin with a larger hook.
Border ripples. You probably worked into the joined corner spaces along the edge. Skip them, then recount against 100 and 240.
Border corners pull in. Check that you worked the full corner group in every round.
Panel gets longer after hanging. Cotton lace can drop a little. Block it slightly snug, or let it hang for a day before you set the final rod height.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, or machine wash in a mesh bag on a gentle cycle. Lay flat to dry and reshape. Don’t hang the panel while it is wet, because the weight will stretch the lace.
Final Notes
The whole curtain depends on one chain of measurements. Six rounds make a 6 in (15.2 cm) square with 20 sc per side. Sixty motifs, 5 across and 12 down, make a 30 x 72 in (76.2 x 182.9 cm) panel. The border starts from 100 and 240 sc per side and adds 1 in (2.5 cm) all around, for a finished size of 32 x 74 in (81.3 x 188.0 cm). Six tabs fit exactly into the 108 stitches of the top edge.
If your first motif matches the gauge, the rest of the panel will too. Make a second panel the same way for a matching pair.
Happy crocheting!