Crocheted forest-green keychain ornament with yellow-green embroidered leaves and wooden ring on beige linen background.

Garden Vine Plastic Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

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The Garden Vine Plastic Bag Holder is a tall, tidy tube that hangs on a hook and keeps loose grocery bags in one place. You stuff bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time through a round hole near the bottom.

The body is worked in deep forest green. Lime green trims the top rim, the hanging tab, and the dispensing hole. A pale chartreuse vine climbs the front, carrying seven crocheted leaves with stitched veins. Two eyelet columns with chartreuse cross-stitches frame the vine. The overall look is fresh, botanical, and practical.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when flat and 16 in (40.6 cm) tall, not counting the hanging tab.

You’ll work the body from the bottom up in continuous rounds of single crochet. A short section is worked in turned rows to form the dispensing hole. Then come the eyelet columns, the lime rim and tab, and finally the leaves and embroidery.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 16 in (40.6 cm) tall
  • Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm)
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
  • Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
  • Number of pieces: 1 body plus 7 leaf appliqués
  • Layout: a vertical vine centered on a 16-stitch front panel
  • Body size before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) × about 15.3 in (38.9 cm) tall
  • Border (rim) depth: 0.7 in (1.8 cm)
  • Dispensing hole: about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × 2.4 in (6.1 cm) tall

Materials

Choose a smooth cotton or cotton blend. It holds its shape, resists stretching under the weight of the bags, and shows the stitch texture clearly. Avoid fuzzy or very drapey yarns.

  • Color A, forest green: 250 g / 425 m
  • Color B, lime green: 50 g / 85 m
  • Color C, pale chartreuse: 20 g / 34 m
  • 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
  • Wooden ring, 2 in (5.1 cm) across
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Scissors
  • Rustproof pins and a blocking mat

All quantities include a small safety margin.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • tr: treble crochet
  • sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
  • sk: skip
  • sp: space
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • MR: magic ring
  • RS / WS: right side / wrong side

Reverse sc (crab stitch): Working from left to right (right-handers), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This makes a corded, twisted edge.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.

Use the base as your test piece. Work Rounds 1–8 and lay the circle flat. It should measure about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across and have 48 sts.

Checkpoints:

  • After Rnd 8: the base is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across.
  • After Rnd 14: the tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
  • Hole rows: the gap is about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide at its widest and 2.4 in (6.1 cm) tall.
  • After Rnd 50: the sides measure 9.3 in (23.6 cm) from the base edge.
  • After Rnd 75: the sides measure 14.9 in (37.8 cm) from the base edge.

If your work is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it’s too small, go up 0.5 mm. Keep the fabric dense, because loose stitches let bags poke through.

Crocheted fabric in deep green with bright lime leaf vine embroidery and eyelet edging.

Body

Work in a continuous spiral without joining unless told otherwise. Move the marker up to the last stitch of each round.

Base (Color A)

  • Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  • Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. (12)
  • Rnd 3: (sc 1, 2 sc in next) × 6. (18)
  • Rnd 4: (sc 2, 2 sc in next) × 6. (24)
  • Rnd 5: (sc 3, 2 sc in next) × 6. (30)
  • Rnd 6: (sc 4, 2 sc in next) × 6. (36)
  • Rnd 7: (sc 5, 2 sc in next) × 6. (42)
  • Rnd 8: (sc 6, 2 sc in next) × 6. (48)

Sides

  • Rnds 9–14: sc in each st around. (48 each round)

The sides now measure about 1.3 in (3.3 cm). The end of the round marks the front center: the hole will sit over the first 4 sts of the next round.

Dispensing Hole (turned rows)

  • Setup: sl st in next 4 sts. These 4 sl sts form the bottom of the hole.
  • Hole Row 1 (Rnd 15, RS): ch 1, sc in next 44 sts, turn. (44)
  • Row 2 (WS): ch 1, sc2tog, sc 40, sc2tog, turn. (42)
  • Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc 38, sc2tog, turn. (40)
  • Row 4: ch 1, sc2tog, sc 36, sc2tog, turn. (38)
  • Row 5: ch 1, sc2tog, sc 34, sc2tog, turn. (36)
  • Rows 6–7: ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (36)
  • Row 8: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc 34, 2 sc in last st, turn. (38)
  • Row 9: ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc 36, 2 sc in last, turn. (40)
  • Row 10: ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc 38, 2 sc in last, turn. (42)
  • Row 11 (Rnd 25, RS): ch 1, 2 sc in first, sc 40, 2 sc in last. (44) Do not turn.

The gap was 4 sts wide at Row 1 and grows by 1 st on each side per decrease row, reaching 12 sts (3 in / 7.6 cm). It then narrows again, which gives a rounded opening.

  • Close: ch 4, then sl st into the first sc of Row 11 across the gap.
  • Rnd 26: ch 1, sc in each of the 44 sts, then sc in each of the 4 chains. (48 = 44 sts + 4 chains)

Place the marker in the last st. The 4 chain stitches are now sts 45–48, so the front center falls between sts 46 and 47. The hole top sits about 4 in (10.2 cm) above the base edge.

Eyelet Columns

  • Rnd 27 (eyelet round): sc 6, ch 2, sk 2, sc 28, ch 2, sk 2, sc 10. (48 = 44 sc + 2 ch-2 sps)
  • Rnd 28: sc 6, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc 28, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc 10. (48)
  • Rnds 29–73: repeat Rnds 27 and 28 alternately, ending with an eyelet round on Rnd 73. (48 each round)
  • Rnds 74–75: sc in each st around. (48)

That gives 24 eyelets in each column. The front panel is the 16 sts between the columns (sts 39–48 and 1–6), which is 4 in (10.2 cm) wide. The back holds 28 sts. After Rnd 75, the sides measure 14.9 in (37.8 cm) from the base edge.

Border: Rim, Tab, and Edging

Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) in Color B, the same as the body.

Rim (Color B)

  • Rnds 76–77: change to B. Sc in each st around. (48 each round)
  • Sl st into the next st to smooth the color jog, then fasten off.

Hanging Tab (Color A)

Back center sits halfway between sts 22 and 23, so the tab uses sts 19–26 of Rnd 77.

  • Row 1: join A in st 19, ch 1, sc in sts 19–26, turn. (8)
  • Rows 2–3: ch 1, sc 8, turn. (8)
  • Row 4: ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, turn. (6)
  • Row 5: ch 1, sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog, turn. (4)
  • Rows 6–14: ch 1, sc 4, turn. (4)
  • Fasten off.

The tab is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide at its base and narrows to a 1 in (2.5 cm) strap. It is about 3.1 in (7.9 cm) long.

Edging Round (Color B)

Join B in st 27 of Rnd 77. Work reverse sc as follows:

  • 1 st in each of the 40 rim sts (sts 27–48 and 1–18)
  • 14 sts up one side of the tab, 1 per row end
  • 4 sts across the top of the tab
  • 14 sts down the other side of the tab

Total: 72 sts (40 + 14 + 4 + 14). Join and fasten off.

Why the math works: the rim takes exactly 1 st per body stitch (48 to 48), so it neither flares nor pulls in. On the tab, 1 sc row is about as tall as 1 sc is wide (4.5 rows vs. 4 sts per inch), so 1 reverse sc per row end lies flat.

Slide the tab strap through the wooden ring. Fold the strap over so its tip meets Row 5, and sew it down securely through both layers.

Hole Edging (Color B)

Join B at a lower corner of the hole.

  • Rnd 1: sc in each of the 4 slip stitches along the bottom, 11 sc up the side (1 per row end), sc in the 4 free chain loops along the top, and 11 sc down the other side. Join. (30 = 4 + 11 + 4 + 11)
  • Rnd 2: reverse sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (30)

Rnd 1 hugs the opening slightly, which pulls the hole into a neater round shape.

Leaves (Color B)

Large Leaf (make 3): about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long × 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide

  • Ch 9.
  • Rnd 1: in 2nd ch from hook, sc. Then hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc in the next 7 ch (8 sts along one side).
  • Ch 2 for the tip.
  • Working along the other side of the foundation chain: sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc. Sl st to the first sc. (16 sts + ch-2 tip)
  • Rnd 2: sl st loosely in each st, working (sl st, ch 2, sl st) in the tip ch-2 sp. Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. (16 sl sts + tip)

Medium Leaf (make 4): about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long × 0.9 in (2.3 cm) wide

  • Ch 7.
  • Rnd 1: in 2nd ch from hook, sc. Then hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc in the next 5 ch (6 sts along one side).
  • Ch 2 for the tip.
  • Working along the other side of the foundation chain: sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc. Sl st to the first sc. (12 sts + ch-2 tip)
  • Rnd 2: as for the large leaf. (12 sl sts + tip)

Veins (Color C): surface sl st down the center of each leaf from base to tip. Then add straight stitches angled toward the tip: 3 per side on large leaves and 2 per side on medium leaves.

Stem, Appliqué, and Cross-Stitches

Stem (Color C): start at the top center of the hole edging and surface sl st up the front panel with a gentle S-curve. Stop 8.5 in (21.6 cm) above the hole.

Leaf placement: pin each leaf with its base touching the stem and its tip angled about 45° upward.

  • Large leaf at the very top of the stem.
  • A pair of large leaves 2 in (5.1 cm) below the top leaf.
  • A pair of medium leaves 2 in (5.1 cm) below that.
  • A pair of medium leaves 2 in (5.1 cm) below that, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the hole.

Stagger the leaves in each pair slightly. Whipstitch around each leaf edge with its tail, keeping the stitches inside the body so they don’t catch bags.

Cross-stitches (Color C): on each solid 2-st band between eyelets, embroider an X that spans the band’s width and height. That’s 23 X’s per column. Weave in all ends on the inside.

Final Blocking

  1. Spray the holder lightly with water, or wet it and press out the excess in a towel.
  2. Stuff it firmly with a towel so it measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
  3. Pin the rim round and the tab straight.
  4. Ease the hole into a smooth oval about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide.
  5. Pat the leaves flat and pin each tip into a point.
  6. Let it dry completely before removing the pins.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • The body has 48 sts in every round from Rnd 8 onward.
  • The holder is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 16 in (40.6 cm) tall.
  • The hole edging has 30 sts and lies flat.
  • Each column has 24 eyelets that line up vertically.
  • The edging round has 72 sts.
  • The tab is sewn securely around the ring.
  • The 7 leaves are firmly attached, with no loose ends on the outside.

Troubleshooting

  • Hole looks square: check the sc2tog and increase rows. Each one must change the row by exactly 2 sts.
  • Eyelet columns lean: don’t let the marker drift. Count the stitch groups again each round.
  • Rim flares: use a 3.5 mm hook for the rim and edging.
  • Leaves curl: work Rnd 2 more loosely and block with pins.
  • Bags fall through the hole: add a third hole round of sc2tog at the four corners only.

Care

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping it over a towel roll. Don’t tumble dry, because it can stretch the tab.

Handmade crochet tissue holder in forest green with lime-green leaf motifs, displayed in use on a styled shelf.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is simple: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). That makes 48 sts a 12 in (30.5 cm) circumference, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. Rounds 9–75 build 14.9 in (37.8 cm) of side height, and the 0.7 in (1.8 cm) rim brings the holder to 16 in (40.6 cm). Check each stage and the vine will grow straight and tidy.

Happy crocheting!

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