A bright yellow crocheted decorative frame with ornate lattice detailing and circular openwork, displayed on a light gray marble surface.

Honeycomb Hive Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

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This hanging holder keeps three toilet rolls tidy and in reach. It has three hexagonal baskets with honeycomb mesh walls, linked by slim straps and hung from a wooden ring. It fits on the back of a door, a wall hook or a towel hook.

The sample is in soft butter-yellow cotton. The open mesh shows a hint of the roll inside, while the solid base and rim keep each basket firm. The look is clean and a little playful, with a honeycomb theme.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) flat-to-flat, about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) point-to-point, and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. The assembled holder hangs about 21.5 in (54.6 cm) below the ring, or about 24.5 in (62.2 cm) including the 3 in (7.6 cm) ring.

Each basket is worked in one piece from the center of the base outward. You make a double-crochet hexagon, turn up the wall through the back loops, work the honeycomb mesh, and finish with a single-crochet rim. Then you crochet five flat straps and sew everything together.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: about 21.5 in (54.6 cm) long below the ring; 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 4 connector straps, 1 hanger strap
  • Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically, with a 2 in (5.1 cm) gap between baskets
  • Basket size: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) flat-to-flat × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
  • Wall height before the rim (border): 3 in (7.6 cm)
  • Rim (border) depth: 1 in (2.5 cm)

Materials

Yarn: Use a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape better than acrylic and is easy to wash. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they blur the honeycomb holes.

  • Butter yellow: 200 g, about 340 m (372 yd)

The quantity includes a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch and for sewing the straps.

Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– One wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
– 6 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Spray bottle and pins for blocking
– Optional: fabric stiffener

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • BLO – back loop only
  • sp – space
  • sk – skip
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • rsc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

Special stitch – rsc: Work from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes a twisted, rope-like edge.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge:
– dc: 14 sts and 8 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
– sc: 15 sts and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)

Make one complete basket before you start the others. Measure it at these stages:

  1. After Round 6: the base measures 6 in (15.2 cm) flat-to-flat.
  2. After Round 7: the base measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) flat-to-flat.
  3. After Round 14: the wall measures 3 in (7.6 cm) from the turning ridge.
  4. After Round 18: the wall measures 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.

If your base is too big, go down half a hook size. If it is too small, go up half a size. If the base ruffles, your dc are too loose. If it cups before Round 7, they are too tight. Keep the stitch counts the same and change only the hook.

Pale yellow crocheted square with raised bumpy stitch detail and twisted border edge on white marble background.

Basket (Make 3)

Base

Start with a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 1 dc in ring, ch 2, 2 dc in ring, ch 2 5 times. Join with a sl st to the top of ch-3. (12 dc: 2 per side, plus 6 ch-2 corner sps)

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp 5 times. Join. (24 dc: 4 per side)

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each dc to the next ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in each dc to the next ch-2 sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp 5 times. Join. (36 dc: 6 per side)

Round 4: Repeat Round 3. (48 dc: 8 per side)

Round 5: Repeat Round 3. (60 dc: 10 per side)

Round 6: Repeat Round 3. (72 dc: 12 per side)

Checkpoint: the base measures 6 in (15.2 cm) flat-to-flat.

Round 7 (trim round): Ch 1, sc in each dc around, working 2 sc in each ch-2 corner sp. Join to the first sc. (72 sc into dc + 12 sc into corner sps = 84 sc)

Each side now has 14 sc: 12 sc over the dc plus 1 corner sc at each end. Since 6 × 14 = 84, no corner is counted twice. Place a marker in the first sc of each side.

Checkpoint: the base measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) flat-to-flat.

Wall

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (84 sc) The unused front loops form a crisp ridge, and the wall starts to rise.

Round 9: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (84 sc)

Round 10 (Mesh 1): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 2 sts, ch 4, sk 4 sts, dc in next 3 sts, ch 4, sk 4 sts 11 times. Join to the top of ch-3. (12 groups of 3 dc + 12 ch-4 sps = 36 dc + 48 ch = 84 sts)

Each repeat uses 7 stitches, so each 14-stitch side holds exactly 2 groups. The mesh lines up with the hexagon base.

Round 11 (Mesh 2): Sl st in the next 2 dc and into the next ch-4 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the same sp, ch 4, 3 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4 11 times. Join to the top of ch-3. (84 sts)

Each new 3-dc group sits in a space, and each ch-4 bridges over the group below. This offset makes the honeycomb holes.

Rounds 12–14 (Mesh 3–5): Repeat Round 11. (84 sts each round)

Checkpoint: the wall measures 3 in (7.6 cm) from the Round 8 ridge: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of sc plus 2.5 in (6.4 cm) of mesh.

Make All Pieces

Connector Straps (Make 4)

Ch 5.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (4 sc)

Rows 2–24: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (4 sc)

Fasten off and leave a 20 in (50.8 cm) tail. The strap measures about 1 in (2.5 cm) × 6 in (15.2 cm).

Hanger Strap (Make 1)

Work as for the connector straps, but continue to Row 72. The strap measures about 1 in (2.5 cm) × 18 in (45.7 cm). Leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail.

Piece count (all butter yellow): 3 baskets, 4 connector straps, 1 hanger strap.

Layout (front view):

        [ RING ]
          /  \
   [ TOP BASKET ]
     |        |
  [ MIDDLE BASKET ]
     |        |
  [ BOTTOM BASKET ]

Joining

Method: Whipstitch, with the strap laid flat on the outside of the wall.

Placement: Number the sides of each basket 1 to 6, starting from the Round 7 join. Straps always go on Sides 1 and 4, which face each other. Center each strap on the side. On the rim, that means the strap covers sts 6–9 of the side’s 14 sts, leaving 5 sts on each side of it.

Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each strap row is 0.25 in (0.6 cm). That matches one sc wall round, and two rows match one mesh round.

  • Lower end: Strap Rows 1–8 cover the top 2 in (5.1 cm) of the lower basket. That is Round 18 (rsc), Rounds 17–15 and mesh Rounds 14–13, which totals 0.25 + 0.75 + 1 = 2 in (5.1 cm).
  • Gap: Rows 9–16 hang free, making a 2 in (5.1 cm) gap.
  • Upper end: Rows 17–24 cover the bottom 2 in (5.1 cm) of the upper basket. That is Rounds 8–9 and mesh Rounds 10–12, which totals 0.5 + 1.5 = 2 in (5.1 cm).

How to sew: Whipstitch both long edges and both short ends of the strap. On solid rounds, go into every sc. Over the mesh, go into the dc posts and chain bridges the strap crosses. Do not skip a mesh round.

Hanger:
1. Fold the hanger strap over the ring so that Rows 35–38 wrap the wood.
2. Whipstitch Rows 31–34 to Rows 39–42. This makes a 1 in (2.5 cm) tab just below the ring.
3. Sew Rows 1–8 to Side 1 of the top basket and Rows 65–72 to Side 4. Use the same top-2 in (5.1 cm) placement as the lower end of a connector strap.
4. This leaves 22 rows, or 5.5 in (14.0 cm), free on each leg. Those legs form the V.

Tension: Pull each sewing stitch snug, but not tight enough to pucker the mesh. Fasten each strap end with two extra stitches, because these points carry the weight.

Size checkpoint: Lay the holder flat. Each gap measures 2 in (5.1 cm), and the V rises about 4.4 in (11.2 cm) above the top rim. The total length below the ring is about 1 + 4.4 + 4 + 2 + 4 + 2 + 4 = 21.4 in, which rounds to 21.5 in (54.6 cm).

Border

The border is the rim on each basket, worked straight on from Round 14. It is worked in sc at 15 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm), with 4 rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm) of height.

Round 15 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in each dc and 4 sc in each ch-4 sp. Join. (36 sc into dc + 48 sc into ch-4 sps, 1 per chain = 84 sc; 14 per side)

Round 16: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (84 sc; 14 per side)

Round 17: Repeat Round 16. (84 sc; 14 per side)

Round 18: Ch 1, rsc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (84 rsc; 14 per side)

Why the math works: Each side of the last mesh round holds 2 repeats of (3 dc + ch 4), which is 14 stitches. Working 1 sc into every dc and every chain gives back exactly 14 per side, the same count as base Round 7. The rim therefore matches the base perimeter: 84 sc ÷ 3.75 sts per in = 22.4 in, close to the 22.5 in (57.2 cm) perimeter of a 6.5 in (16.5 cm) hexagon. The wall stands straight instead of flaring or pulling in.

Checkpoint: the basket measures 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends except the strap tails until the straps are sewn on.
  2. Spray each basket until it is damp, but not soaked.
  3. Slip each basket over a straight-sided form about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide, such as a canister or a toilet roll wrapped in a towel.
  4. Pinch each of the six corners into a crisp line from the base to the rim.
  5. Open each honeycomb hole with your fingers so the shapes look even.
  6. Optional: brush fabric stiffener onto the base and rim for extra firmness.
  7. Let everything dry completely.
  8. Block the straps flat to 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
  9. Sew the pieces together, then hang the holder for a final check.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Every base Round 6 has 72 dc, and every Round 7 has 84 sc.
  • Each mesh round has 12 groups, 2 per side.
  • Each basket has 5 mesh rounds.
  • Each basket measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) flat-to-flat and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
  • All straps are 4 sc wide.
  • The connector straps have 24 rows and the hanger strap has 72 rows.
  • The straps sit on Sides 1 and 4 and are centered on sts 6–9.
  • Both gaps measure 2 in (5.1 cm).
  • The baskets hang level, not tilted.
  • All ends are secured and hidden inside the solid rounds.

Troubleshooting

The base ruffles. Your dc are loose. Go down a hook size, or check that you made only one (dc, ch 2, dc) per corner.

The base cups early. Your dc are tight. Go up half a hook size.

The mesh drifts away from the corners. Round 10 did not start at the first sc of a side. Undo it and restart at the Round 7 join.

The holes look like squares. Make your ch-4 bridges a little looser, and stretch the holes vertically when you block.

The wall flares. Check that Round 15 has 84 sts, not 4 extra per space.

A basket tilts. The straps are not centered or are sewn at different heights. Re-sew them to matching rows.

The rsc edge is lumpy. Keep the loops loose and work more slowly.

Care

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping the baskets over a form. Do not tumble dry, because cotton shrinks and the mesh can warp.

Butter-yellow crocheted toilet roll holder with honeycomb pattern holding three white rolls, hung from brass hook in a tiled bathroom.

Final Notes

The measurement chain is:
– Gauge: 14 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
– Base: 6 in (15.2 cm) after Round 6 and 6.5 in (16.5 cm) after Round 7.
– Wall: 3 in (7.6 cm) of solid band and mesh, plus a 1 in (2.5 cm) rim, for a 4 in (10.2 cm) basket.
– Assembly: 2 in (5.1 cm) strap gaps and a 4.4 in (11.2 cm) hanger V, for about 21.5 in (54.6 cm) below the ring.

If each checkpoint matches, the next one will too. Hang it, fill it, and enjoy.

Happy crocheting!

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