This valance turns a plain doorway or window into a festive entrance. A filet-mesh header hangs from a curtain rod by crocheted tabs, and eleven strands drop from its pointed lower edge, carrying lacy bells, holly clusters, and ivory pearls in a V shape.
The palette is classic: deep burgundy for the header, bells, bows, and berries, forest green for the holly leaves, and ivory pearl beads for shine. The style is vintage farmhouse, light enough to let daylight through.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished valance measures 28 in (71.1 cm) wide, and the center strand reaches about 19¼ in (48.9 cm) below the rod.
You’ll crochet the header flat in rows, add a border with tabs and points, make the bells, leaves, and berries, build each strand, then hang the strands from the points.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 28 in (71.1 cm) wide; 19¼ in (48.9 cm) long at the center strand
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Sport (#2) mercerized cotton
- Hook: 3.25 mm (D-3)
- Number of pieces: 1 header, 11 strands, 7 bells, 7 bows, 18 leaves, 18 berries
- Layout: 11 strands hanging in a V from 11 points
- Header size before border: 27½ in × 2½ in (69.9 cm × 6.4 cm)
- Border depth: ¼ in (0.6 cm) at the top and sides; ¾ in (1.9 cm) at the points
- Header size after border: 28 in × 3½ in (71.1 cm × 8.9 cm), measured to the point tips
- Bell size: 2¾ in (7.0 cm) tall, 3 in (7.6 cm) across the rim
Materials
Use a smooth mercerized cotton. It gives crisp mesh, stiff bells, and clear picots. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the header will sag.
- Burgundy: 100 g, about 310 m
- Forest green: 40 g, about 124 m
- Ivory pearl beads: 45 beads, 8 mm, with holes at least 2 mm wide
Tools:
- 3.25 mm (D-3) hook
- Tapestry needle
- Big-eye beading needle or floss threader (for stringing pearls)
- Stitch markers
- Spray starch
- Rustproof pins and a blocking board
- Curtain rod up to 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter
All quantities include a margin of about 20 percent.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- sc2tog – sc 2 together
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Picot: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from hook.
Pearl chain (pch): slide 1 pearl up against the hook, then ch 1 around it so the pearl is locked into the chain.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 22 dc and 11 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). Chain gauge: 6 ch = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one bell first. It is a fast test piece that uses the same stitches as the header.
- Bell after Round 6: about 2¼ in (5.7 cm) tall
- Finished bell: 2¾ in (7.0 cm) tall
- Header after Row 1: 27½ in (69.9 cm) wide
- Header after Row 7: 2½ in (6.4 cm) deep
- Each point section: 15 sts, about 2¾ in (7.0 cm)
If your pieces are too big, go down one hook size. If they are too small, go up one hook size. Change the hook, not the stitch counts, because the point spacing depends on 151 sts.
Header
The foundation chain becomes the top edge. Row 7 becomes the bottom edge.
Foundation: With burgundy, ch 153.
Row 1: Dc in the 4th ch from hook (the skipped 3 ch count as 1 dc) and in each ch across. Turn. (151 dc)
Row 2 (mesh): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next st; repeat from * across. Turn. (51 dc, 50 ch-2 sps)*
Rows 3–6: Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc; repeat from * across, ending with the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. Turn. (51 dc, 50 ch-2 sps each row)*
Row 7 (solid): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * across. (151 dc: 51 dc worked into dc + 100 dc worked into spaces)* Do not fasten off.
Checkpoint: 27½ in × 2½ in (69.9 cm × 6.4 cm).
Bells (Make 7)
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing. Do not turn.
Round 1: With burgundy, make a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc) Pull the ring closed, leaving a hole just large enough for the strand to pass through.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 5 times, sl st to join. (18 dc)*
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * 5 times, join. (24 dc)*
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in each st around, join. (24 dc)
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * 5 times, join. (30 dc)*
Round 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts; repeat from * 5 times, join. (36 dc)*
Round 7 (mesh band): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st; repeat from * 17 times, sl st to 3rd ch of ch-4. (18 dc, 18 ch-1 sps)*
Round 8 (shell rim): Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (hdc, dc, hdc) in each ch-1 sp around, sl st to first hdc. (54 sts in 18 shells) Fasten off and weave in ends.
The 18 shells sit on a wider ring than the 36 sts above them, so the rim flares outward.
Bows (Make 7)
With burgundy, ch 48, about 8 in (20.3 cm). Fasten off, leaving short tails. Tie into a bow with ½ in (1.3 cm) loops and trim the tails to match.
Holly Leaves (Make 18)
The leaf is worked around both sides of a chain, so the stitches mirror each other.
With forest green, ch 12.
Side 1: Working into chs 2–11 from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc, dc, picot, dc, hdc, picot, hdc, sc. (10 sts, 3 picots)
Base: 3 sc in the last ch (the 12th ch). (3 sc)
Side 2: Rotate and work along the other side of the chs, from ch 11 back to ch 2: sc, hdc, picot, hdc, dc, picot, dc, dc, picot, dc, hdc, sc, sl st. (10 sts, 3 picots)
Tip: Ch 4, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sl st in next 2 ch, sl st in the first skipped ch of the foundation. Fasten off.
Leaf total: 23 sts, 6 side picots, 1 tip point. The leaf measures about 2 in × 1 in (5.1 cm × 2.5 cm).
Berries (Make 18)
Round 1: With burgundy, 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st. (12 sc)
Round 3: Sc in each st. (12 sc)
Round 4: Sc2tog 6 times. (6 sc)
Stuff with the starting tail, then close the hole with the end tail. Each berry is about ½ in (1.3 cm) across.
Make All Pieces
Burgundy: 1 header, 7 bells, 7 bows, 18 berries, 11 strands.
Forest green: 18 leaves.
Strand layout (P = point, numbered left to right with the right side facing):
P1 P2 P3 P4 P5 P6 P7 P8 P9 P10 P11
Bell Pearl Bell Holly Bell Holly Bell Holly Bell Pearl Bell
3" 10" 6" Holly 9" Holly 9" Holly 6" 10" 3"
8" Bell 8"
13"
The numbers show chain length above the bottom item.
Joining: Strands and Clusters
Holly clusters (make 6): Lay 3 leaves base to base, two angled up and out and one pointing down. Sew the bases together, then sew 3 berries over the center. Each cluster is about 4 in (10.2 cm) across.
Building the strands. Each strand starts at the top with a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing. String the strand’s pearls onto the yarn before you start. The pearl closest to the bottom goes on first.
- P1 and P11: Ch 18, 3 in (7.6 cm). String 1 pearl for the clapper.
- P3 and P9: Ch 36, 6 in (15.2 cm). String 1 pearl.
- P5 and P7: Ch 54, 9 in (22.9 cm). String 1 pearl.
- P2 and P10: String 10 pearls. Ch 5, pch; repeat from * 10 times. (60 ch, 10 in / 25.4 cm, 10 pearls)*
- P4 and P8: String 3 pearls. Ch 18, mark for holly 1, ch 5, pch; repeat from * 3 times, ch 12, mark for holly 2. (48 ch, 8 in / 20.3 cm)* Fasten off.
- P6: String 7 pearls (6 for the strand, 1 for the clapper). Work the same as P4 to holly 2 (48 ch), then ch 5, pch; repeat from * 3 times, ch 12. (78 ch, 13 in / 33.0 cm)*
Adding the bells and clappers. Pull the working loop of each bell strand down through the Round 1 ring of a bell, from the outside to the inside. Inside the bell, ch 14, then work pch with the last pearl. (15 ch, about 2½ in / 6.4 cm) Fasten off and knot securely.
The clapper hangs to about 2¾ in (7.0 cm), so the pearl just peeks below the rim. Tack the strand to Round 1 so the bell hangs straight, then sew a bow to the top of the bell.
Adding the hollies. Sew a cluster at each marked chain. Use small stitches through the back of the leaves only.
Keep your chains even and relaxed. Tight chains shorten the strands and break the V. Check the strand lengths against the layout before hanging them.
Border: Points and Tabs
Border gauge: 22 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Work 2 sc per dc row-end on the sides.
Round 1: Continue from Row 7, which ends at a bottom corner. Ch 1, then turn the work to go up the side. Work 14 sc up the side (2 per row) to the top corner, ch 2. Work 151 sc across the top, one in each foundation ch. Ch 2, 14 sc down the other side, ch 2. Work 151 sc across Row 7, ch 2, then sl st to the first sc.
Count: top 151 sc, bottom 151 sc, each side 14 sc, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps. (330 sc) The corner spaces are not stitches, so nothing is counted twice.
Round 2: Sl st into the corner sp and work 1 sc in each corner sp throughout. Work the sides and top in sc: 14 sc per side and 151 sc across the top. The 4 corner sc are not included in the side counts.
Along the bottom 151 sc, work the pointed edging. The drop points fall on sts 1, 16, 31, 46, 61, 76, 91, 106, 121, 136, and 151.
- At each drop st: (tr, ch 2, tr)
- Between points (14 sts): dc in next 2, hdc in next 2, sc in next 2, sl st in next 2, sc in next 2, hdc in next 2, dc in next 2
Bottom count: 151 sts worked 1-per-st (140 section sts + 11 drop sts) + 11 extra tr = 162 sts and 11 ch-2 points.
Round 2 total: 14 + 151 + 14 + 162 + 4 corner sc = 345 sts. Fasten off.
Tabs (make 11): With the wrong side facing, join burgundy across 5 top sts. Use sts 1–5 and 147–151 for the end tabs. Center the other tabs on sts 16, 31, 46, 61, 76, 91, 106, 121, and 136 (for example, sts 14–18).
- Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each of the 5 sts. Turn. (5 sc)
- Rows 2–20: Ch 1, sc in each st. Turn. (5 sc each row)
Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Each tab is about 3½ in (8.9 cm) long. Fold it to the back and whipstitch the last row to Round 1.
Why the math works: 151 = (3 × 50) + 1, so the mesh closes evenly. 151 is also (15 × 10) + 1, so 11 points split the bottom into 10 identical 14-st sections. Every section mirrors itself: tall at the points and short in the middle, which creates the arches.
Hanging the strands: Sew the top of each strand into its ch-2 point, wrapping the tail 3 times. Weave in the end.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the header and pin it flat to 28 in × 3½ in (71.1 cm × 8.9 cm). Pin each point tip and each mesh row straight.
- Spray-starch the header and let it dry fully.
- Starch the bells and stand each one over a cone of rolled foil to set the flare.
- Pin each holly leaf flat and open its picots. Mist it and let it dry.
- Hang the valance on the rod. Gently tug each strand straight and let it settle for one day.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The header is 28 in (71.1 cm) wide and the mesh squares are even
- 11 points are evenly spaced, about 2¾ in (7.0 cm) apart
- 11 tabs are secure and the rod slides through freely
- Strand lengths match the layout and the V is symmetric
- Every bell rim flares, and every clapper pearl shows below its rim
- All 6 holly clusters face forward with their berries centered
- All ends are woven in and knotted at the strand tops
Troubleshooting
- Header waves: The foundation chain was too tight. Redo it with a hook one size larger.
- Mesh squares lean: You worked into the ch-2 sps instead of into the dc. Work dc on dc.
- Bell is cupped, not flared: Check that Round 8 has 54 sts, and starch it over a cone.
- Points look blunt: Make sure the tr pairs share one stitch and the ch-2 is not skipped.
- Strands twist: Hang a light weight on each strand while it is damp.
- Pearls slip: Tighten each pch so the chain grips the bead.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, roll in a towel, and dry flat. Re-starch the bells and header after washing.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. Check 22 dc to 4 in (10.2 cm) and 6 ch to 1 in (2.5 cm). Then confirm the header at 27½ in × 2½ in (69.9 cm × 6.4 cm), the bordered header at 28 in × 3½ in (71.1 cm × 8.9 cm), and each bell at 2¾ in (7.0 cm). The center strand of 13 in (33.0 cm) plus the header and its bell reaches 19¼ in (48.9 cm). If each checkpoint matches, the V will fall exactly as designed.
Happy crocheting!