This bag holder is a tall, open tube that keeps loose plastic grocery bags tidy. You push bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time from the cinched bottom. The body alternates diamond chain-loop mesh with narrow solid stripes, so you can see the bags inside and the tube still holds its shape.
The sample is shown in two cheerful colorways, mustard yellow and periwinkle blue. Each holder uses one color only. Make one, or make a pair to hang side by side on cabinet hooks. The look is cottage-kitchen simple, with a soft drawstring bow at the bottom and a slim hanging strap at the top.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished tube is 15 in (38.1 cm) around, about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, and 19.5 in (49.5 cm) tall without the strap. The strap loop adds about 7 in (17.8 cm) of hanging length.
You start at the bottom edge and work upward in joined rounds without turning. Next comes a sl st edging at the top, then the strap, worked straight off the rim. Last, you make a chain drawstring and weave it through the eyelet round.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference × 19.5 in (49.5 cm) tall
- Hanging length with strap: about 26.5 in (67.3 cm)
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube (strap worked on) + 1 drawstring cord
- Layout: single vertical tube; not joined to other pieces
- Piece size: 60 stitches around, 45 rounds tall
- Size before border: 19.5 in (49.5 cm) tall
- Border depth: one sl st round at each edge; adds almost no height
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the mesh crisp and does not stretch much under the weight of the bags. Avoid splitty or very fuzzy yarn, because the open loops need clear stitch definition.
Each holder uses one color:
- Colorway A, Mustard Yellow: 80 g / about 140 m
- Colorway B, Periwinkle Blue: 80 g / about 140 m
For a matching pair, buy 80 g of each color. These amounts include a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch and small tension differences.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 locking stitch marker for the start of the round, plus 4 extra markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Tape measure
- Rustproof pins and a rolled towel or a tall bottle or cardboard tube for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – ch-5 loop: Chain 5 loosely to make an arch. In the next mesh round you anchor a sc in the center of each arch, and the arches stack into the diamond lattice.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc × 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
Mesh gauge: 4 mesh rnds = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall. One ch-5 loop spans 4 sts, which is 1 in (2.5 cm).
Work rnds 1–9 first and treat them as your test piece. Before you go on, flatten the tube and measure across: it should be 7.5 in wide, meaning 15 in (38.1 cm) around.
Checkpoints (height from the bottom edge):
- After Rnd 9: 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- After Rnd 17: 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
- After Rnd 25: 10.5 in (26.7 cm)
- After Rnd 33: 14.5 in (36.8 cm)
- After Rnd 37: 17.5 in (44.5 cm)
- After Rnd 45: 19.5 in (49.5 cm)
If your tube is too big around, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Keep the 60-stitch count either way, because every mesh round depends on it. If only the height is off, add or remove one sc round in the top band rather than changing the mesh.
Pattern
Notes: Join every round with a sl st to the first st. Don’t turn. The ch-1 at the start of a sc round does not count as a stitch. Move the marker up to the first st of each round.
Bottom Band
Foundation: Ch 60. Check that the chain isn’t twisted, then join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join. (60 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Rnd 3 (eyelet round): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2; rep from * 14 more times, join to top of ch-3. (30 dc + 15 ch-2 sps = 15 eyelets)
Rnd 4 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp around, join. (30 sc worked 1 per dc + 30 sc worked into the 15 sps = 60 sc)
Rnds 5–9: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Checkpoint: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall, 15 in (38.1 cm) around.
Mesh Section 1
Rnd 10 (first mesh round): Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk 3, sc in next st, ch 5, sk 3; rep from * 14 more times, join to first sc. (15 sc + 15 ch-5 loops)
Rnd 11: Sl st in each of the next 3 ch to reach the center of the first loop. Ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop, ch 5; rep from * 13 more times, join to first sc. (15 ch-5 loops)
Rnds 12–13: Rep Rnd 11. (15 ch-5 loops each round)
Because each round’s sc lands in the center of the arch below, the arches offset by half a loop each round. That offset makes the diamond lattice.
Stripe 1
Rnd 14 (conversion round): Ch 1, work 4 sc in each ch-5 loop around, skipping the sc between loops, join. (0 sc worked into sts + 4 sc × 15 loops = 60 sc)
Rnds 15–17: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Checkpoint: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall.
Mesh Section 2 and Stripe 2
Rnds 18–21: Work as Rnds 10–13. (15 ch-5 loops each round)
Rnd 22: Work as Rnd 14. (4 sc × 15 loops = 60 sc)
Rnds 23–25: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Checkpoint: 10.5 in (26.7 cm) tall.
Mesh Section 3 and Stripe 3
Rnds 26–29: Work as Rnds 10–13. (15 ch-5 loops each round)
Rnd 30: Work as Rnd 14. (60 sc)
Rnds 31–33: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Checkpoint: 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall.
Mesh Section 4 and Top Band
Rnds 34–37: Work as Rnds 10–13. (15 ch-5 loops each round)
Checkpoint: 17.5 in (44.5 cm) tall.
Rnd 38: Work as Rnd 14. (4 sc × 15 loops = 60 sc)
Rnds 39–45: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (60 sc)
Checkpoint: 19.5 in (49.5 cm) tall. Don’t fasten off. Go straight on to the top edging in the Border section.
Hanging Strap
Work the strap after the top edging round (see Border) is done.
Flatten the tube so the round’s start is at one side fold. Count across the back half and mark edging sts 23 and 26, and sts 31 and 34.
Row 1: With the outside of the tube facing, join yarn with a sc in the back loop of st 23. Sc in the back loops of sts 24, 25, and 26, turn. (4 sc)
Rows 2–56: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sc per row)
Checkpoint: the strap is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 14 in (35.6 cm) long.
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Without twisting the strap, fold it over and whipstitch Row 56 to the back loops of sts 31–34. This leaves 4 free sts, or 1 in (2.5 cm), between the strap ends. The strap forms a loop that stands about 7 in (17.8 cm) above the rim.
Drawstring
Ch 95. Sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (94 sl sts)
Checkpoint: the cord measures about 22 in (55.9 cm). Fasten off and tie an overhand knot close to each end. Trim the tails to 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Border
The holder has two edges, the bottom foundation edge and the top rim. Each one gets a single sl st edging. This firms the opening and stops the bottom from flaring when you pull bags through.
Border gauge: One sl st in each st. The edging adds almost no height, so the tube stays 19.5 in (49.5 cm) tall.
Top edging (worked after Rnd 45): Sl st loosely in each st around, join. (60 sl sts; 30 per side when flattened). Fasten off and weave in the end.
Bottom edging: Turn the tube upside down. Join yarn in the free loop of any foundation ch. Sl st loosely in each free loop around, join. (60 sl sts; 30 per side when flattened). Fasten off.
Why the math works: Every solid round has 60 sts. Every mesh round has 15 loops × 4 sts = 60 sts’ worth of width. Every conversion round puts back exactly 60 sc. The edgings work 1 sl st in each of those 60 sts, so the rims match the body exactly and don’t ruffle or pull in. Flattened, each side shows 30 sts, which at 4 sts per 1 in (2.5 cm) is 7.5 in. Doubled, that’s the 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference.
Threading the drawstring: Starting at the center front, weave the cord in and out through the 15 eyelets of Rnd 3. Both ends come out of neighboring eyelets at the front. Pull the cord until the opening is about 2 in (5.1 cm) across, then tie a bow.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along solid rounds, not through the mesh, where they would show.
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes, then gently press out the water. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to take out more moisture.
- Slide the tube over a tall bottle, a rolled towel, or a cardboard tube about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
- Ease the mesh so every diamond is evenly open and each stripe sits level.
- Check the height: 19.5 in (49.5 cm). Lay the strap flat and pin it to 14 in (35.6 cm) long.
- Let it dry completely before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every solid round has 60 sts.
- Every mesh round has 15 ch-5 loops.
- The eyelet round has 15 evenly spaced eyelets.
- Both edgings have 60 sl sts.
- The tube measures 15 in (38.1 cm) around and 19.5 in (49.5 cm) tall.
- The strap is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide, 14 in (35.6 cm) long, untwisted, and firmly sewn.
- The drawstring is about 22 in (55.9 cm) long, with knotted ends.
- No ends show through the mesh.
Troubleshooting
The diamonds slant in a spiral. Make sure you start each mesh round in the center of the first loop and join to the first sc of that same round.
The stripe after the mesh puckers. Your ch-5 loops are too tight. Chain more loosely, or work 5 sc in each loop and then sc2tog evenly to bring the count back to 60.
The stripe after the mesh ruffles. Your loops are too loose. Use a tighter ch-5, or go down half a hook size for the mesh rounds only.
The tube is shorter than 19.5 in (49.5 cm). Add sc rounds to the top band until it reaches the right height.
The strap stretches. Use a firmer cotton, or add a row of sl sts down each long edge.
The bags slip out on their own. Pull the drawstring tighter, to about 1.5 in across.
Care
Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cool cycle inside a mesh laundry bag. Reshape while damp and lay flat or hang to dry.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. The 60-st sc gauge sets the 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference. Each 4-round mesh section adds 3 in (7.6 cm) and each stripe adds 1 in (2.5 cm). Together with the 2.5 in (6.4 cm) bottom band and the 2 in (5.1 cm) top band, that gives the 19.5 in (49.5 cm) height. Check your gauge at Rnd 9, keep every round at 60 sts or 15 loops, and the tube, edgings, strap, and drawstring will all fit as designed.
Happy crocheting!