The Lilac Garden Letter X Keychain is a small, sturdy initial charm with a little garden growing down one side. The letter is a crisp cream “X” in tight single crochet, finished with a corded rim that keeps every edge sharp. A cascade of lilac and cream flowers, sage leaves and tiny round buds runs down the left edge, and a gold key ring hangs from the top-right tip.
The colours are soft and gentle: cream for the letter, lilac purple and cream for the flowers, mustard yellow for one flower centre, and sage green for the leaves. It looks neat on a handbag, a set of keys or a gift bag, and it makes a personal present for anyone whose name starts with X.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished charm measures 3 1/4 in (8.3 cm) tall by 3 1/4 in (8.3 cm) wide, not counting the hardware.
The letter is worked flat in one piece, in rows from the bottom up. You make the two bottom legs separately, join them into one body that narrows to the centre and widens again, then split it into two top arms. Two rounds of border go all the way around, and then you sew on the small appliqués and attach the key ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3 1/4 in x 3 1/4 in (8.3 cm x 8.3 cm)
- Skill level: Easy+ (shaping with edge increases and decreases)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Sport / fine (#2) cotton
- Hook: 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2)
- Number of pieces: 1 letter body plus 3 flowers, 5 leaves and 3 buds
- Layout: Single letter, with the appliqués along the left edge
- Letter size before border: 3 in x 3 in (7.6 cm x 7.6 cm)
- Stroke width: 1 in (2.5 cm), measured horizontally
- Border depth: 1/8 in (0.3 cm) on every edge
Materials
Use a smooth, tightly plied cotton or cotton blend in sport weight. Mercerized cotton gives the cleanest stitch definition and holds the letter flat. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, because the corners will lose their sharpness.
- Cream: 6 g / 18 m (letter, border, cream flower petals, buds, small flower centre)
- Lilac purple: 2 g / 6 m (large and small flower petals)
- Sage green: 2 g / 6 m (leaves)
- Mustard yellow: 1 g / 2 m (cream flower centre)
All quantities include a generous margin for swatching and sewing tails.
Tools and notions:
- 2.5 mm crochet hook
- Tapestry needle and a sharp embroidery needle
- 2 locking stitch markers
- Gold split key ring, 1 in (2.5 cm) diameter, with about 1 1/2 in (3.8 cm) of gold chain
- One 6 mm gold jump ring and two pairs of flat-nose pliers
- Blocking mat and rustproof pins
- Optional: light spray starch or fabric stiffener
- Scissors
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together: (insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop) twice, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special technique – edge shift: To slant a strip without changing its stitch count, work sc2tog at one edge and inc at the other edge in the same row. The whole strip moves one stitch toward the inc side.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 6 sc and 8 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm), worked firmly.
Make a test swatch of 12 sc by 16 rows. It should measure 2 in x 2 in (5.1 cm x 5.1 cm). Since this is a single small piece, you can also treat the first leg as your test: Leg B should measure exactly 1 in (2.5 cm) across Row 1.
Checkpoints while working:
- After Row 1 of each leg: 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
- After Row 6: the legs touch at their inner corners, and the piece is 3/4 in (1.9 cm) tall.
- After Row 7: 12 sts, 2 in (5.1 cm) wide.
- After Row 12: 6 sts, 1 in (2.5 cm) wide at the centre, 1 1/2 in (3.8 cm) tall.
- After Row 18: 12 sts, 2 in (5.1 cm) wide, 2 1/4 in (5.7 cm) tall.
- After Row 24: 3 in (7.6 cm) tall and 3 in (7.6 cm) across the arm tips.
If your piece is too big, go down to a 2.25 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 2.75 mm hook. Change hooks rather than adding stitches, because the slant of the strokes depends on the exact counts.
The Letter X
Rows 1, 3, 5 and so on are RS rows, worked right to left. Even rows are WS rows. Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.
Leg B (bottom-left leg)
With cream, ch 7.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (6 sc) You are now at the outer (left) edge.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc2tog at the outer edge, sc 3, inc in the last st at the inner edge, turn. (6 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sc)
Rows 4–6: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 once, then repeat Row 2 once more. (6 sc)
Fasten off. Leg B has moved 3 sts toward the centre.
Leg A (bottom-right leg)
With cream, ch 7.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (6 sc) You are now at the inner (left) edge.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, inc in the first st at the inner edge, sc 3, sc2tog at the outer edge, turn. (6 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sc)
Rows 4–6: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 once, then repeat Row 2 once more. (6 sc)
Do not fasten off. Row 6 ends at the outer (right) edge of Leg A.
Body (join, narrow, widen)
Row 7 (RS, joining row): Ch 1, sc in each of the 6 sts of Leg A. Place Leg B to the left with its RS facing, so the inner corners of the two legs touch. Sc in each of the 6 sts of Leg B’s Row 6, turn. (12 sc)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog, turn. (10 sc)
Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (10 sc)
Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 6, sc2tog, turn. (8 sc)
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (8 sc)
Row 12: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog, turn. (6 sc)
Row 13: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (6 sc) This is the narrow centre of the X.
Row 14: Ch 1, inc, sc 4, inc, turn. (8 sc)
Row 15: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (8 sc)
Row 16: Ch 1, inc, sc 6, inc, turn. (10 sc)
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (10 sc)
Row 18: Ch 1, inc, sc 8, inc, turn. (12 sc)
The outer edges continue the same diagonal as the legs. Each edge moves one stitch every two rows, so the strokes read as straight lines.
Upper-Right Arm
Row 19 (RS): Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sts, turn, leaving the remaining 6 sts unworked. (6 sc)
Row 20 (WS): Ch 1, sc2tog at the inner edge, sc 3, inc in the last st at the outer edge, turn. (6 sc)
Row 21: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (6 sc)
Rows 22–24: Repeat Rows 20 and 21 once, then repeat Row 20 once more. (6 sc)
Fasten off.
Upper-Left Arm
Row 19 (RS): With RS facing, join cream in the 7th st of Row 18 (the next unworked st). Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 5 sts, turn. (6 sc)
Row 20 (WS): Ch 1, inc in the first st at the outer edge, sc 3, sc2tog at the inner edge, turn. (6 sc)
Row 21: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (6 sc)
Rows 22–24: Repeat Rows 20 and 21 once, then repeat Row 20 once more. (6 sc)
Fasten off and weave in all tails.
Checkpoint: The letter measures 3 in x 3 in (7.6 cm x 7.6 cm). Each arm and leg tip is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
Border
Border gauge: Work 1 sc per row end and 1 sc per stitch. Each tip has a corner stitch at both ends.
The outline has 4 tips (8 outer corners), 2 long outer sides, and 2 crotches (the V-shaped notches at the top and bottom). The two long outer sides also each have a concave notch at the centre.
Round 1
With RS facing, join cream in the bottom-right corner st of Leg A. Ch 1 and work around the letter counterclockwise. Treat the counts below as a list of segments; corners are counted inside each tip.
- Leg A bottom tip: 3 sc in the corner st, sc 4, 3 sc in the next corner st. (10 sc)
- Bottom crotch: Sc in the row ends of Leg A’s inner edge, Rows 1–5 (5 sc). Sc2tog over the Row 6 row ends of Leg A and Leg B at the apex (1 st). Sc in the row ends of Leg B’s inner edge, Rows 5–1 (5 sc). (11 sts)
- Leg B bottom tip: 3 sc in the corner st, sc 4, 3 sc in the next corner st. (10 sc)
- Left outer side: Sc in the row ends of Rows 1–11 (11 sc). Sc2tog over the row ends of Rows 12 and 13 (1 st). Sc in the row ends of Rows 14–24 (11 sc). (23 sts)
- Upper-left arm tip: 3 sc in the corner st, sc 4, 3 sc in the next corner st. (10 sc)
- Top crotch: Sc in the row ends of Rows 24–20 (5 sc). Sc2tog over the two Row 19 row ends at the apex (1 st). Sc in the row ends of Rows 20–24 of the right arm (5 sc). (11 sts)
- Upper-right arm tip: 3 sc in the corner st, sc 4, 3 sc in the next corner st. (10 sc)
- Right outer side: Sc in the row ends of Rows 24–14 (11 sc). Sc2tog over the row ends of Rows 13 and 12 (1 st). Sc in the row ends of Rows 11–1 (11 sc). (23 sts)
Sl st to the first sc to join.
Round 1 total: 10 + 11 + 10 + 23 + 10 + 11 + 10 + 23 = 108 sts.
Round 2 (corded rim)
Ch 1, sl st in the BLO of each st around. (108 sl st) Fasten off with an invisible join.
Why the Math Works
Each tip starts as 6 stitches. The two 3-sc corners add 2 stitches each, giving 6 + 4 = 10. The edges have 24 + 24 + 12 + 12 = 72 row ends in total. The 4 notch decreases remove 4, leaving 68. The total is 4 x 10 + 68 = 108.
Each row is 1/8 in (0.3 cm) tall and slants half a stitch sideways. That makes each diagonal row end about the width of one stitch, so 1 sc per row end lies flat without cupping or ruffling. The sc2tog at each notch keeps the inside angles sharp. Round 1 adds 1/8 in (0.3 cm) on every edge, so the letter grows from 3 in (7.6 cm) to 3 1/4 in (8.3 cm).
Flowers, Leaves and Buds
Leave long tails on every appliqué for sewing.
Large Lilac Flower (make 1)
Rnd 1: With cream, make a magic ring. Ch 1, 10 sc in the ring, sl st to join. (10 sc) Fasten off cream.
Rnd 2: Join lilac in any st. *Sl st in the next st, (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) in the next st; repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st to join. (5 petals)
Finished size: 1 1/4 in (3.2 cm) across. With cream, embroider 5 French knots in a ring at the centre to make the beaded look.
Cream Flower (make 1)
Rnd 1: With yellow, make a magic ring. Ch 1, 10 sc in the ring, sl st to join. (10 sc) Fasten off.
Rnd 2: Join cream. *Sl st in the next st, (hdc, 3 dc, hdc) in the next st; repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st to join. (5 petals)
Finished size: 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Small Lilac Flower (make 1)
Rnd 1: With cream, make a magic ring. Ch 1, 5 sc in the ring, sl st to join. (5 sc) Fasten off.
Rnd 2: Join lilac. Work (sl st, 2 dc, sl st) in each st around. (5 petals)
Finished size: 3/4 in (1.9 cm) across.
Leaf (make 5)
With green, ch 6. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook, then hdc, dc, hdc in the next 3 ch, and 3 sc in the last ch. Working along the other side of the chain: hdc, dc, hdc, sc. Sl st to the first sc.
Finished size: 3/4 in (1.9 cm) long, with a pointed tip.
Bud (make 3)
With cream, make a magic ring. Ch 1, 6 sc in the ring and pull it tight. Sl st to join. Tuck the starting tail inside to round out the bud.
Finished size: 1/4 in (0.6 cm).
Assembly
Lay the letter RS up with the arms at the top. Arrange the pieces along the left outer edge, letting each one overlap the rim by about 1/8 in (0.3 cm). From top to bottom:
- Two buds near the top-left arm tip
- One leaf
- The large lilac flower at the upper-left, just above the centre notch
- One leaf on each side of the large flower
- The cream flower across the left notch and onto the left leg
- One bud beside it
- The small lilac flower near the bottom-left tip, with one leaf below it
Tuck the leaves halfway behind the flowers. Sew the leaves first, then the flowers, then the buds, using small hidden stitches through the back loops only so nothing shows on the back.
Open the jump ring with pliers and thread it through both loops of the Round 2 rim at the outer corner of the upper-right arm tip. Add the end of the chain and close the ring tightly.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the letter (not the flowers) until it is just damp.
- Pin it RS up on the mat, putting one pin at each of the 8 outer corners.
- Measure 3 1/4 in (8.3 cm) both ways and adjust the pins.
- Pin the two crotch apexes and the two side notches to keep the angles crisp.
- Optional: spray lightly with starch.
- Let it dry completely, at least 2 hours, before removing the pins.
- Fluff the flower petals with your fingertips.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] The letter measures 3 1/4 in x 3 1/4 in (8.3 cm x 8.3 cm).
- [ ] All four tips are 1 in (2.5 cm) wide plus the border, with square corners.
- [ ] Both strokes slant at the same angle.
- [ ] Border Round 1 counts 108 sts.
- [ ] The rim lies flat with no ruffles at the corners.
- [ ] The appliqués are secure and no stitching shows on the back.
- [ ] The jump ring is fully closed and attached through both rim loops.
- [ ] All tails are woven in and trimmed.
Troubleshooting
The strokes look wavy: Check that the edge shifts fall only on even rows, and make sure every sc2tog and inc is worked at the correct edge.
The legs don’t meet at Row 7: One leg probably missed a shift. Count 3 shifts per leg; there should be 3 per arm as well.
The border ruffles: Your tension is too loose. Use a hook 0.25 mm smaller for the border only.
The border cups: Make sure you worked into every row end and didn’t skip any.
The notches look rounded: Pull each notch sc2tog snug and pin the notches during blocking.
The flowers flop forward: Add a tacking stitch behind each petal tip.
Care
Hand-wash cold with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry the charm flat. If you used stiffener, spot-clean only.
Final Notes
Everything follows from one measurement chain. A gauge of 6 sc and 8 rows per inch makes 1 in (2.5 cm) tips and a 3 in (7.6 cm) letter after 24 rows. The 108-stitch border adds 1/8 in (0.3 cm) on every side, for a finished 3 1/4 in (8.3 cm) charm. Check each stage as you go and the flowers will sit perfectly along the edge.
Happy crocheting!