The Merlot Bobble Hanging Basket is a soft, sturdy wall pouch for yarn, hooks and small notions. The body is deep burgundy and covered in plump bobbles stacked in neat columns. A cream bobble pocket on the front holds scissors, a ruler and your favorite hooks.
The style is cozy and textured but simple to read: bobble rounds alternate with plain single crochet rounds, and a smooth band at the rim pulls the opening in slightly. The back rises into a pointed tab that ends in a folded hanging loop, so the basket hangs neatly from any wall hook.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished basket measures about 9 in (22.9 cm) wide when flat. The body is about 9.5 in (24.1 cm) tall, the tab and loop add about 6 in (15.2 cm), and the whole piece is about 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall.
Construction is simple. You work a flat circle base, then the sides in joined, turned rounds so every bobble pops to the outside. Next comes a tapered tab worked in rows on the back half of the rim. One round of edging goes around the opening and tab, and the strap folds into a loop. The pocket is worked flat in rows, edged, and sewn on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 9 in (22.9 cm) wide × 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall overall, including the loop
- Skill level: Intermediate (bobbles, turned rounds, simple shaping)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
- Hook: 6.0 mm (J-10)
- Number of pieces: 1 basket body (with built-in tab and loop) + 1 pocket, sewn together
- Layout: Pocket centered on the front, 1 in (2.5 cm) above the base fold
- Body size before border: 9 in (22.9 cm) wide × 9 1/3 in (23.7 cm) tall, base fold to rim
- Pocket size before border: 6 in (15.2 cm) × 5 in (12.7 cm)
- Border depth: 1 round of sc, about 1/4 in (0.6 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth bulky yarn with good stitch definition, such as acrylic, a cotton blend or wool blend. Fuzzy or very loosely plied yarns hide the bobbles and split when you work a bobble.
- Color A – Burgundy: 220 g / 310 m (339 yd)
- Color B – Cream: 50 g / 70 m (77 yd)
Both quantities include a margin of about 15% for your gauge swatch and small tension differences.
Tools:
– 6.0 mm (J-10) crochet hook
– 4 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Rustproof pins
– Spray bottle or steamer for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- yo – yarn over
Special stitch – Bobble (bob): *Yo, insert hook in the indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops; repeat from * 4 more times in the same st (6 loops on hook), yo and draw through all 6 loops. A bobble uses 1 st and counts as 1 st.
Bobbles pop out on the side facing away from you. In this pattern, every bobble row or round is worked with the WS facing you, so the bobbles always land on the RS.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Single crochet gauge: 12 sts × 12 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), so 3 sts and 3 rows per inch (2.5 cm).
Bobble pattern gauge: 12 sts × 10 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), alternating a bobble row and a sc row.
Make the pocket first. It is small, uses both stitch patterns, and works as your swatch. Before you add the edging, it should measure 6 in (15.2 cm) wide × 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
Checkpoints:
– Base after Round 9: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across
– Body after Round 30, flattened: 9 in (22.9 cm) wide
– Bobble section (Rounds 11–30): 8 in (20.3 cm) tall
– Rim after Round 33, flattened: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide
– Tab (Rows 1–12): 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
If your piece is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it is too small, go up 0.5 mm. A small width difference (under 1/4 in / 0.6 cm) will block out. Always correct height with your hook, not by adding or removing rounds, so the bobble columns stay even.
Pocket (Color B)
Work flat in rows. Row 1 is the RS.
Foundation: Ch 19.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (18 sts)
Row 2 (WS, bobble row): Ch 1, sc 1, bob, sc 2; repeat from * 4 more times, bob, sc 1, turn. (18 sts: 6 bobbles + 12 sc)*
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (18 sts)
Rows 4–11: Repeat Rows 2–3 four more times. (18 sts; 5 bobble rows in total)
Rows 12–13: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (18 sts)
These two plain rows form the smooth top band. Do not fasten off. Checkpoint: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide × 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
Pocket edging round (RS facing): Ch 1, turn so the RS faces you, and work around:
– Top edge: 2 sc in the first st, sc 16, 2 sc in the last st (20 sts)
– Side 1: Work down the row ends. Work 1 sc in each of the 13 row ends, plus 1 extra sc in the ends of bobble Rows 4 and 8, which are taller. That gives 13 + 2 = 15 sts
– Bottom edge: Working into the foundation chain: 2 sc in the first ch, sc 16, 2 sc in the last ch (20 sts)
– Side 2: Work up the row ends the same way as Side 1 (15 sts)
Sl st to the first sc. Total: 20 + 15 + 20 + 15 = 70 sts.
The 2-sc increase at each corner gives the soft rounded corners. Fasten off, leaving a 30 in (76.2 cm) tail for sewing.
The edged pocket measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) × 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
Basket Body (Color A)
Base
Work in joined rounds without turning.
Round 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, sl st to the first sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st, join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc 1, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 5 more times, join. (18 sts)*
Round 4: Ch 1, sc 2, 2 sc in next st × 6, join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc 3, 2 sc in next st × 6, join. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc 4, 2 sc in next st × 6, join. (36 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc 5, 2 sc in next st × 6, join. (42 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc 6, 2 sc in next st × 6, join. (48 sts)
Round 9: Ch 1, sc 7, 2 sc in next st × 6, join. (54 sts)
Checkpoint: the base should be 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and lie flat.
Sides
From here on, you turn at the end of every round, so RS and WS rounds alternate.
Round 10 (RS): Ch 1, do not turn, sc in BLO of each st, join. (54 sts)
The unused front loops make a crisp ridge where the base meets the sides.
Round 11 (WS, bobble round): Ch 1, turn, sc 1, bob, sc 2; repeat from * 16 more times, bob, sc 1, join. (54 sts: 18 bobbles + 36 sc)*
Round 12 (RS): Ch 1, turn, sc in each st, join. (54 sts)
Rounds 13–30: Repeat Rounds 11–12 nine more times. (54 sts; 10 bobble rounds in total)
Each bobble sits directly above the one below it, so the bobbles form straight vertical columns.
Checkpoint: flattened, the body is 9 in (22.9 cm) wide. The bobble section is 8 in (20.3 cm) tall.
Rim
Round 31 (WS, decrease round): Ch 1, turn, sc 7, sc2tog; repeat from * 5 more times, join. (48 sts: 6 × 8)*
Rounds 32–33: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st, join. (48 sts)
Fasten off. The rim now measures 16 in (40.6 cm) around, or 8 in (20.3 cm) across when flat. The body is 9 1/3 in (23.7 cm) tall from the base fold to the rim.
Back Tab and Strap
Flatten the body so the join sits at one side fold. Place markers to split the rim into 24 front sts and 24 back sts. Choose the front with the neatest bobble columns, because the pocket will go there.
With the RS (outside) facing, join Color A in the first back st.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each of the 24 back sts, turn. (24 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (24 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc 20, sc2tog, turn. (22 sts)
Rows 4–12: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to the last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. Each row is 2 sts shorter:
– Row 4: 20 sts
– Row 5: 18 sts
– Row 6: 16 sts
– Row 7: 14 sts
– Row 8: 12 sts
– Row 9: 10 sts
– Row 10: 8 sts
– Row 11: 6 sts
– Row 12: 4 sts
These steady decreases make the pointed arch. Checkpoint: the tab is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
Rows 13–24 (strap): Ch 1, sc 4, turn. (4 sts)
The strap is 4 in (10.2 cm) long and 1 1/3 in (3.4 cm) wide. Do not fasten off. You will start the border from here.
Border (Color A)
Border gauge: 3 sc per inch (2.5 cm), the same as the sc gauge, so the edge lies flat without ruffling or cupping.
Border round (RS facing): Ch 1. Do not turn. Work along the strap and tab edge, then across the front rim:
– Strap top: sc 4 (4 sts)
– Side A (down the tab): 12 sc in the strap row ends (Rows 24–13), 15 sc over the 10 decrease-row ends (Rows 12–3), working 3 sc in every 2 row ends, then 2 sc in Rows 2–1. That gives 12 + 15 + 2 = 29 sts
– Front rim: sc in each of the 24 front sts of Round 33 (24 sts)
– Side B (up the tab): 2 + 15 + 12 = 29 sts, mirroring Side A
Sl st to the first sc. Total: 4 + 29 + 24 + 29 = 86 sts.
Why the math works:
– The straight strap rows and front rim are 1 sc per row end or per stitch, which matches the 3-per-inch gauge.
– On Rows 3–12, each row moves 1 st (1/3 in / 0.8 cm) inward and 1 row (1/3 in / 0.8 cm) up. That makes the slanted edge about 1.4 times longer than the row height. Working 3 sc per 2 row ends (1.5 per row) covers that length without stretching.
Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail.
Form the loop: Fold the strap in half toward the inside of the basket, so the top of Row 24 lies against Row 13 on the WS. Use the tail to whipstitch the strap end in place across all 4 sts. The loop is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
Attach the pocket: Lay the basket flat, front up. Center the pocket so there is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) of body on each side, with its bottom edge 1 in (2.5 cm) above the Round 10 ridge. Pin it, then whipstitch through the outer loops of the edging along both sides and the bottom. Leave the top open. Weave in all ends.
Final Blocking
- Stuff the basket with a folded towel until the sides are smooth but not stretched.
- Mist lightly with water, or hover steam over the piece. Never press the iron onto the bobbles.
- Pat the body to 9 in (22.9 cm) wide and the rim to 8 in (20.3 cm) wide.
- Pin the tab flat to a board so its point is centered over the back, then pin the pocket square to its 6.5 × 5.5 in (16.5 × 14.0 cm) outline.
- Gently pinch any flattened bobbles back into shape.
- Let it dry completely, at least 24 hours, before you remove the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Base is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and sits flat.
- All 180 body bobbles (18 per round × 10 rounds) face outward in straight columns.
- Body is 9 in (22.9 cm) wide and the rim is 8 in (20.3 cm) wide.
- Tab has 12 rows and tapers evenly to 4 sts.
- Border has 86 sts and lies flat on every edge.
- Loop is firmly sewn and 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
- Pocket edging has 70 sts and the pocket is centered, square and open at the top.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
Bobbles are on the inside of the basket: You worked a bobble round with the RS facing. Bobble rounds must face WS (Rounds 11, 13, 15 and so on, all odd numbers).
Bobble columns drift sideways: Your joins are moving. Always sl st into the first real sc, never into the ch-1.
Base ruffles: Your increases are too tight compared with your round tension. Go up a hook size for Rounds 1–9 only.
Rim flares instead of drawing in: Check that Round 31 has 48 sts and that your sc2tog stitches are snug.
Tab edges ripple: You worked too many border sc on the slant. Use exactly 15 sc across Rows 3–12.
Pocket sags: Sew through both the pocket edging and the body fabric, not just the surface loops.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat, reshaping the bobbles while damp. Don’t hang it to dry, or the weight of the water will stretch the loop.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and easy to check:
– The base is 54 sts and 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
– Those 54 sts make a body 9 in (22.9 cm) wide.
– The 48-st rim is 8 in (20.3 cm) wide.
– The 24-st back half tapers to a 4-st strap over 4 in (10.2 cm).
– The 86-st border finishes the opening.
– The 18-st pocket finishes at 6.5 × 5.5 in (16.5 × 14.0 cm).
Check each stage against its number and the basket will come out as planned: plump, sturdy and ready to hang.
Happy crocheting!