The Olive Grove holder stacks three soft baskets in a column, so spare toilet rolls stay tidy without taking up any shelf space. Each basket has a solid green base, staggered rows of chunky clusters, and a corded cream rim that frames the roll.
The palette is olive green and warm cream. It looks good next to wood, brass and plants, and it fits a natural, cottage-style bathroom. This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
The finished holder is 5 in (12.7 cm) wide. It is 22 in (55.9 cm) long from the top of the wooden ring to the bottom of the lowest basket. Each basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) across and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
You will work three baskets in joined rounds from the base up. Next you make four short straps and one tapered hanging tab in rows. Last, you sew everything together and wrap the tab around a 3 in (7.6 cm) wooden ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5 in (12.7 cm) wide × 22 in (55.9 cm) long, including the ring
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 8 (3 baskets, 4 straps, 1 tab)
- Layout: Vertical stack: tab, then Basket 1, then 2 straps, then Basket 2, then 2 straps, then Basket 3
- Piece size: Basket 5 in (12.7 cm) across × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Size before border: Basket wall 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall after Rnd 18
- Border depth: 2 rounds, 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Choose a firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape and doesn’t fuzz in a humid bathroom. Acrylic also works, but the walls will be softer.
- Olive green (A): 150 g, about 255 m (279 yd)
- Cream (B): 100 g, about 170 m (186 yd)
These quantities include a margin of roughly 40%. Measured use is closer to 105 g of A and 70 g of B.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outside diameter
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rustproof pins for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- dc – double crochet
- yo – yarn over
- tbl – through back loop only
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch): working from left to right, insert the hook in the next stitch to the right, pull up a loop, yo, and pull through both loops.
Special stitches:
- Cluster (cl): [Yo, insert hook in the stitch or space, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] 3 times in the same place. You now have 4 loops on the hook. Yo and pull through all 4.
- Beginning cluster (beg cl): Ch 2. [Yo, insert hook in the same place, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] twice. Yo and pull through all 3 loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc × 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. Two cluster rounds measure 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket before you start the others, and check these measurements as you go:
- After Rnd 9 (base): The flat circle measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
- After Rnd 12: The wall measures 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall above the base edge.
- After Rnd 18: The wall measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 20: The wall measures 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, and a standard roll of about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) diameter drops in easily.
If the base is larger than 5 in (12.7 cm), go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is smaller than 4.75 in (12.1 cm), go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Test the roll fit before you continue past Rnd 12, because the wall can’t grow wider after that point.

Basket (Make 3)
Base
Work with color A. Join every round with a sl st to the first st. The beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
- Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc in the ring. Join. (6 sts)
- Rnd 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
- Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (18 sts)
- Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 2, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (24 sts)
- Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 3, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (30 sts)
- Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 4, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (36 sts)
- Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc 5, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (42 sts)
- Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc 6, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (48 sts)
- Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc 7, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (54 sts)
Checkpoint: The base is 5 in (12.7 cm) across. All rounds from here on keep 54 stitches or 27 repeats.
Lower Wall
- Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc tbl in each st around. (54 sts) This round creates the sharp fold where the base meets the wall.
- Rnds 11–12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (54 sts)
Every join line now sits at the back of the basket. Mark that spot as the back center.
Cluster Band
Carry the color you are not using up the inside of the basket at the back-center join. Don’t cut it.
- Rnd 13 (B): Join B in the joining st. Beg cl in the same st, ch 1, skip next st. Cl in next st, ch 1, skip next st; repeat 26 more times. Join to the top of beg cl. (27 cl, 27 ch-1 sps)
- Rnd 14 (A): Join A in the first ch-1 sp. Beg cl in the same sp, ch 1. Cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat around. Join. (27 cl, 27 ch-1 sps)
- Rnd 15 (B): Repeat Rnd 14 with B. (27 cl, 27 ch-1 sps)
- Rnd 16 (A): Repeat Rnd 14 with A. (27 cl, 27 ch-1 sps)
- Rnd 17 (B): Repeat Rnd 14 with B. Fasten off A. (27 cl, 27 ch-1 sps)
Each cluster sits in the gap between two clusters of the round below. That offset produces the staggered, checkerboard look.
Conversion Round
- Rnd 18 (B): Ch 1, sc in the top of each cl and in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (27 sc + 27 sc = 54 sts)
Checkpoint: The wall is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, and the count is back to 54.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, each using about 25 g of A and 22 g of B
- Straps: 4, each using about 3 g of A
- Tab: 1, using about 5 g of B and 6 g of A
Strap (Make 4)
With A, ch 4.
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (3 sts)
- Rows 2–16: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each strap measures 0.9 in × 4 in (2.3 cm × 10.2 cm).
Hanging Tab (Make 1)
With B, ch 15.
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each remaining ch. (14 sts)
- Rows 2–4: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (14 sts)
- Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 10, sc2tog. (12 sts)
- Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (12 sts)
- Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog. (10 sts)
- Row 8: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (10 sts)
- Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc 6, sc2tog. (8 sts)
- Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc across. Change to A. Fasten off B. (8 sts)
- Rows 11–22: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (8 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail. The tab is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) long. It is 4 in (10.2 cm) wide at Row 1 and about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide at the top.
Layout grid (front view):
[ wooden ring ]
[ tab, A ]
[ tab, B ]
[ Basket 1 ]
| | <- straps 1 and 2
[ Basket 2 ]
| | <- straps 3 and 4
[ Basket 3 ]
Border
Border gauge: 14 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm) in both sc and rev sc. Two rounds add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of height.
Basket Rim (each basket)
- Rnd 19 (B): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (54 sts)
- Rnd 20 (B): Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join. (54 sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: The rim is one continuous circular side of 54 stitches, with no corners. Rnd 18 already brought the count back to 54. Rnds 19 and 20 then work exactly one stitch into each stitch, so the rim neither flares nor pulls in. At 3.5 sts per inch, 54 sts make a circumference of about 15.4 in (39.1 cm). That matches the base, so the walls stay straight and the basket stays a true cylinder.
Tab Side Edging
With A and the right side facing, join at the Row 1 corner. Work 1 sc in each row end up to Row 16 (16 sc), then fasten off. Repeat on the opposite side, again starting at the Row 1 corner (16 sc). Leave Rows 17–22 unedged, because they wrap around the ring.
Why the math works: An sc row is about as tall as an sc stitch is wide. One sc per row end therefore keeps the edging flat, even along the slanted decrease rows.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with a tapestry needle and A, working through both layers. Stitch through the inner loops of the fabric so the seams are hidden.
Marking strap positions: Find the back center of each basket at the join line. Count 9 stitches to the left and 9 to the right of it, and place a marker in each of those stitches. The two strap centers are 18 stitches apart, which puts the straps on the back third of the basket. Because every round has 54 stitches, the markers line up vertically from Rnd 10 to Rnd 20.
Straps 1 and 2 (Basket 1 to Basket 2):
- Center a strap over the left marker on the outside of Basket 1. Its three stitch columns cover three wall stitches: the marked stitch and one stitch on each side.
- Lay strap Rows 13–16 over Basket 1’s Rnds 10–12 and the base fold. Whipstitch around all edges of this overlap.
- Lay strap Rows 1–4 over the outside of Basket 2’s Rnds 17–20, so Row 4 sits just below the rev sc cording.
- Sew this overlap the same way, then repeat with the second strap at the right marker.
Strap Rows 5–12 stay free. That is 8 rows, giving a 2 in (5.1 cm) gap between the baskets. Join Basket 2 to Basket 3 with Straps 3 and 4 in exactly the same way.
Tension advice: Pull each stitch snug, but don’t pucker the wall. Every ending stitch should sit flat. Before sewing, hold the stack up by Basket 1: the gaps should match and the baskets should hang level.
Attaching the tab:
- Center Row 1 of the tab on the outside back of Basket 1, over the back-center join.
- Lay tab Rows 1–4 over Rnds 16–19 of the basket and whipstitch around them.
- Slip tab Rows 17–22 through the wooden ring and fold them to the back.
- Whipstitch Row 22 to Row 16 on the back. That folds 1.5 in (3.8 cm) over the ring.
Size checkpoint: About 3 in (7.6 cm) of tab shows between the rim and the ring. The total length is 3 in (7.6 cm) ring + 3 in (7.6 cm) tab + 3 baskets × 4 in (10.2 cm) + 2 gaps × 2 in (5.1 cm) = 22 in (55.9 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the inside of each basket.
- Lightly mist each basket with water.
- Stuff each basket with a toilet roll wrapped in a hand towel so it holds a 5 in (12.7 cm) round shape.
- Press each base flat on a table and roll the rim cording slightly outward with your fingers.
- Pin the tab and straps flat on a blocking mat, keeping them straight and vertical.
- Let everything dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Remove the stuffing, hang the holder, and check that the baskets hang level.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket base measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across and lies flat.
- Every wall round has 54 stitches or 27 cluster repeats.
- The clusters in each round are offset from the round below.
- The rim is 4 in (10.2 cm) above the base on all three baskets.
- All four straps are 3 stitches wide and leave 2 in (5.1 cm) gaps.
- The straps sit at the same marked columns on every basket.
- The tab is centered at the back and firmly sewn around the ring.
- The total length is 22 in (55.9 cm).
- No carried yarn shows on the outside.
Troubleshooting
- The base cups or ruffles: Your tension is off. Cupping means the stitches are too tight, so loosen up or change hook size. Ruffling means they are too loose. Recount Rnds 2–9.
- The basket flares at the top: You probably worked 2 sts into one ch-1 sp in Rnd 18. Rework the round with exactly 54 sts.
- The clusters stack instead of staggering: Work each cl into a ch-1 sp, not into the top of a cluster.
- The roll doesn’t fit: Your base is under 4.75 in (12.1 cm). Remake it with a larger hook.
- The baskets tilt: Your straps are sewn at uneven heights. Unpick and re-align them to the markers.
- The rev sc looks twisted: Make sure you insert the hook from front to back as you move to the right.
Care
Remove the rolls and hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape the baskets and dry them flat, away from direct heat.

Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. A 5 in (12.7 cm) base of 54 sts carries the same 54 sts through every wall round, conversion round and rim round. That gives three matching 4 in (10.2 cm) baskets. Straps 3 sts wide with 8 free rows set 2 in (5.1 cm) gaps, and a 3 in (7.6 cm) tab and 3 in (7.6 cm) ring complete the 22 in (55.9 cm) length. Check the base, check the 54-stitch count, and check the gaps, and the holder will hang straight.
Happy crocheting!