Put spare plastic bags in this olive-branch holder and they become part of the kitchen decor. The cream body has dark teal bands, and a brown olive branch with green leaves and teal olives wraps around the middle. Small picots finish the top edge, and a solid teal strap hangs it from a hook or knob.
The whole holder is worked in tapestry single crochet. You carry unused colors inside your stitches, so the fabric is firm, thick and neat on both sides. It holds its shape even when it’s stuffed full. This pattern uses US crochet terms.
The finished holder is 8 in (20.3 cm) wide when flat (16 in / 40.6 cm around) and 15 in (38.1 cm) long including the border. The bag opening at the bottom is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.
You start at the bottom with a chain ring, which becomes the dispensing opening. You increase out to make a rounded teal base, then work straight up in joined rounds through the stripes and the olive motif. You decrease once near the top, add a picot border, and finish the bottom opening. Last, you make a short strap and sew it in.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 8 in (20.3 cm) wide flat × 15 in (38.1 cm) long
- Skill level: Intermediate (tapestry colorwork)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.0 mm (US G-6)
- Number of pieces: 1 body + 1 strap
- Layout: one tube, worked bottom-up in joined rounds
- Body circumference: 64 sts = 16 in (40.6 cm); top 56 sts = 14 in (35.6 cm)
- Length before border: 58 rnds = 14.5 in (36.8 cm), measured along the side
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the top + 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the bottom
Materials
Pick a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton. Mercerized or matte both work. Cotton keeps the tapestry crisp and stops the holder from stretching under the weight of the bags. Fuzzy yarn will blur the leaves.
- Color A, Cream: 100 g / 190 m
- Color B, Dark Teal: 70 g / 135 m
- Color C, Olive Green: 25 g / 48 m
- Color D, Brown: 15 g / 29 m
These quantities include about a 15% margin. Tapestry crochet uses more yarn than plain crochet because the carried strands are hidden inside every stitch.
Tools:
- 4.0 mm (US G-6) crochet hook
- 1 stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a spray bottle for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- A, B, C, D – yarn colors
Tapestry sc: Lay the colors you aren’t using along the top of the previous round and work your sc over them, so the strands sit inside the stitch. To change color, work the sc before the change until 2 loops are on the hook. Yarn over with the new color and pull it through. Carry only the colors you need in that round. Drop any other color at the back of the work and pick it up again when a later round needs it.
Picot: Ch 3, then sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.
Round structure: Every round starts with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch. Work the first sc in the same st. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Mark the first sc of each round. The joins line up at the back, where the strap will go.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sts and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in tapestry sc, with 1–2 strands carried.
You don’t need a separate swatch. The teal base is your test piece.
- After Rnd 1: The chain ring should measure 8 in (20.3 cm) around.
- After Rnd 7: The outer edge (64 sts) should measure 16 in (40.6 cm) around.
- After Rnd 19: The work should be 4.75 in (12.1 cm) long along the side.
- After Rnd 43: It should be 10.75 in (27.3 cm) long, and the motif should be 6 in (15.2 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 58: It should be 14.5 in (36.8 cm) long, and the top 14 in (35.6 cm) around.
Too big? Go down 0.5 mm. Too small? Go up 0.5 mm. Fix the gauge at Rnd 7. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the 32-st motif repeat needs exactly 64 sts.
Body
Base (Color B)
With B, ch 32. Join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist it.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join. (32 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (32 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, join. (40 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (40 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, join. (48 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, join. (56 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, (sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) 8 times, join. (64 sts)
These increases make a curved base rather than a flat disk. That curve gives the bottom its rounded look.
Lower Stripes
From here, carry B inside your stitches through to Rnd 11. Then cut it, leaving a tail to weave in.
Rnds 8–9 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (64 sts)
Rnds 10–11 (B): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (64 sts)
Rnds 12–19 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (64 sts)
Join C, D and B again where the motif needs them.
Olive Branch Motif
Each line below gives one 32-st repeat. Work the bracket twice in every round, for 64 sts. The two repeats put one complete branch on the front and one on the back. The stem rises from lower left to upper right. Leaves branch off it in pairs, and the olives hang below in clusters.
- Rnd 20: [A3, D2, A2, B2, A23] twice
- Rnd 21: [A4, D2, A1, B2, A23] twice
- Rnd 22: [A5, D2, B2, A1, B2, A20] twice
- Rnd 23: [A6, D2, A2, B2, A20] twice
- Rnd 24: [A7, D2, A1, B2, A20] twice
- Rnd 25: [A8, D3, A8, C3, A10] twice
- Rnd 26: [A6, C3, D2, A6, C4, A11] twice
- Rnd 27: [A4, C4, A2, D2, A3, C4, A13] twice
- Rnd 28: [A2, C4, A5, D2, C3, A16] twice
- Rnd 29: [A1, C3, A8, D2, A18] twice
- Rnd 30: [A13, D2, A3, B2, A1, B2, A9] twice
- Rnd 31: [A14, D2, A2, B2, A1, B2, A9] twice
- Rnd 32: [A15, D2, A1, B2, A1, B2, A9] twice
- Rnd 33: [A16, D6, A4, C3, A3] twice
- Rnd 34: [A14, C3, D2, A5, C4, A4] twice
- Rnd 35: [A12, C4, A2, D2, A2, C4, A6] twice
- Rnd 36: [A10, C4, A5, D2, C3, A8] twice
- Rnd 37: [A9, C3, A8, D2, A4, B2, A4] twice
- Rnd 38: [A21, D2, A3, B2, A4] twice
- Rnd 39: [A22, D2, A2, B2, A4] twice
- Rnd 40: [A20, C3, D5, A4] twice
- Rnd 41: [A18, C4, A2, D2, A6] twice
- Rnd 42: [A16, C4, A5, C3, A4] twice
- Rnd 43: [A15, C3, A8, C4, A2] twice
Every line adds up to 32 sts, so every round is 64 sts. Cut C, D and B with tails to weave in. You’ll rejoin B in Rnd 50.
Upper Stripes and Rim
Rnds 44–49 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (64 sts)
Rnds 50–51 (B): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (64 sts)
Rnd 52 (A): Ch 1, (sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog) 8 times, join. (56 sts)
This decrease narrows the top slightly, as in the photo.
Rnd 53 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (56 sts)
Rnd 54 (B): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (56 sts)
Rnd 55 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (56 sts)
Cut A.
Rnds 56–58 (B): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (56 sts)
Checkpoint: The work should be 14.5 in (36.8 cm) long and 14 in (35.6 cm) around the top. Don’t fasten off yet.
Strap
With B, ch 41.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (40 sts)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (40 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap is 10 in (25.4 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide. Sew it on after the border (see below).
Border
Border gauge: One picot every 2 sts, which is one picot every 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Top Picot Edge
Rnd 59 (B): Ch 1, (sc in next st, picot, sc in next st) 28 times, join. Fasten off. (56 sc + 28 picots)
Why the math works: Rnd 58 has 56 sts. Each repeat uses 2 sts, and 56 ÷ 2 = 28. The picots space out evenly with no partial repeat at the join. Each repeat works into existing stitches 1-for-1, so the sc count stays at 56. The picots stick out but add no width, so the top stays 14 in (35.6 cm) around.
Bottom Opening Edge
Hold the holder upside down. Join B in any remaining loop of the foundation chain.
Bottom Rnd: Ch 1, sc in each of the 32 foundation loops, join. Fasten off. (32 sts)
This round works 1 stitch into each of the 32 chains, so the opening stays 8 in (20.3 cm) around. That’s about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across. The extra sc makes a firm, slightly rolled teal edge that won’t stretch when bags are pulled through.
Attaching the Strap
Lay the holder flat with the round joins in the center back. Pin each strap end inside the rim so it overlaps the inside by 0.75 in (1.9 cm), which covers Rnds 56–58. Leave 12 sts, or 3 in (7.6 cm), between the inner edges of the two strap ends, centered over the joins. Whipstitch all around each overlap, going through the strap and the inner face of the rim only. Don’t let the stitches show on the cream side. The loop rises about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the picots.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all tails along matching colors on the inside, then trim them.
- Stuff the holder firmly with a rolled towel, or with plastic bags, to fill out its shape.
- Mist it evenly until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Lay it on its back. Shape the bottom into a smooth curve with the opening centered.
- Pull the stripes level and straighten the stem, nudging stitches with your fingers.
- Pin the picots out one by one along the rim.
- Let it dry completely, then turn it over and repeat for the other side if needed.
- Remove the stuffing and check that it’s 8 in (20.3 cm) wide flat and 15 in (38.1 cm) long.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 64 sts in every round from Rnd 7 to Rnd 51
- 56 sts in Rnds 52–58, with 28 picots in Rnd 59
- 32 sc around the bottom opening
- Two full olive branches, matching on the front and back
- No carried strands showing between stitches
- Teal stripes level all the way around
- Strap centered at the back and sewn on securely
- 8 in (20.3 cm) × 15 in (38.1 cm) after blocking
Troubleshooting
Carried colors show through: Pull the carried strands snug and keep them on top of the stitches below. In motif rounds, hold the main color slightly in front.
Fabric slants to one side: Tapestry sc naturally leans a little. Blocking corrects most of it. Working through both loops evenly also helps.
Tube flares or puckers: Recount your stitches. Usually a stitch has been added or missed at a join.
Leaves look blurry: Change colors on the last yarn over of the previous stitch, never during the new stitch.
Opening is too loose: Work the bottom round with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.
Strap stretches: Add a fourth row, or sew a cotton ribbon along the inside of the strap.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water in a towel, then reshape and dry flat. Don’t tumble dry, because the colorwork can shrink unevenly.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain. A 32-st ring makes an 8 in (20.3 cm) opening. Seven base rounds build up to 64 sts, or 16 in (40.6 cm) around. Fifty-one even rounds hold that size and carry two 32-st olive repeats, with the motif 6 in (15.2 cm) tall. One decrease takes the top to 56 sts, or 14 in (35.6 cm). Then 28 picots and a 32-st bottom round finish the holder at 15 in (38.1 cm) long.
For the softer version in the photo, swap cream for blush pink and teal for dark brown, and work the olives in brown.
Happy crocheting!