This hanging holder has three small, round lace baskets stacked on two narrow straps. Each basket holds one standard toilet paper roll, and the top of the roll shows above a soft scalloped rim. A plain wooden ring at the top slips over a wall hook or a door knob.
The whole piece uses one color, a warm cream cotton. Each basket wall has six small pineapple motifs framed by shell columns. The lace looks light and vintage but stays firm enough to hold its shape.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) across the base and 3.7 in (9.4 cm) tall, and widens to about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) at the rim. When hung from the ring, the finished holder is about 22.4 in (56.9 cm) long.
You crochet three identical baskets in joined rounds: a flat double crochet base, a back-loop turning round, pineapple lace walls and a scalloped rim. Next you make two long single crochet straps. You loop them through the wooden ring and sew them up opposite sides of each basket.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 22.4 in (56.9 cm) long × 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: worsted weight (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets + 2 straps, plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 3 baskets in one vertical column, 2.1 in (5.3 cm) apart
- Piece size (one basket): 5 in (12.7 cm) base diameter, 3.7 in (9.4 cm) tall
- Size before border: basket wall 3.2 in (8.1 cm) tall after Rnd 12
- Border depth: scalloped rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds a basket shape better than acrylic and handles bathroom humidity well. Avoid fuzzy or very soft yarns, because the lace will lose its definition.
- Cream: 170 g / 260 m (about 284 yd), based on a cotton of roughly 1.5 m per gram
These amounts include a margin of about 15% for your test basket and small differences in tension.
Tools:
- 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) diameter
- 6 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors and tape measure
- One toilet paper roll for fitting
- Pins and a spray bottle for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sp(s) – space(s)
- lp(s) – loop(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- rep – repeat
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitches:
- V-st: (dc, ch 2, dc) in the same stitch.
- Shell: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same space.
The beginning ch 3 counts as the first dc throughout. Join each round with a sl st to the top of the beginning chain, or to the first sc where stated. Do not turn.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 15 dc and 8 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm). For the straps: 15 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make one complete basket first. Check it against the roll and the checkpoints below before you start the other two.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- After Rnd 3: about 3 in (7.6 cm) across
- After Rnd 5: 5 in (12.7 cm) across, lying flat
- After Rnd 7: wall 0.7 in (1.8 cm) tall
- After Rnd 12: wall 3.2 in (8.1 cm) tall
- After Rnd 13 (rim): total height 3.7 in (9.4 cm)
Up to 0.25 in (0.6 cm) off is fine. If your base is too big, switch to a 3.75 mm hook. If it’s too small, or the roll won’t slide in easily, switch to a 4.5 mm hook. Always fix gauge at the base, because the wall stitch counts depend on it.
Basket (Make 3)
Base
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 and work 11 dc into the ring. Pull the ring closed and join. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Join. (24 dc)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. Join. (36 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. Join. (48 dc)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around. Join. (60 dc)
The base should be 5 in (12.7 cm) across and lie flat, without ruffling or cupping.
Wall
Rnd 6 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join to first sc. (60 sc = 60 worked 1-per-existing-stitch + 0 added)
The unworked front loops form a crisp ridge, and the wall turns upward from here.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc in each st around. Join. (60 dc)
Place markers in st 1 and st 31. They mark where the two straps will go.
Pineapple Lace
The lace repeat uses 10 stitches of Rnd 7, which gives 6 repeats around.
Rnd 8: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in same st (first V-st), ch 1, sk next 4 sts, 5 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next 4 sts, V-st in next st, ch 1, sk next 4 sts, 5 dc in next st, ch 1, sk next 4 sts; rep from * 4 more times. Join to 3rd ch of beg ch-5. (6 V-sts and 6 five-dc fans: 42 dc, 6 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps)
Check: each repeat uses 1 + 4 + 1 + 4 = 10 sts, and 6 × 10 = 60. The V-sts sit on sts 1 and 31, at your markers.
Rnd 9: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp (first shell), ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, dc in each of next 5 dc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, shell in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp, dc in each of next 5 dc, ch 1. Join. (6 shells and 6 pineapple bases of 5 dc: 54 dc)
Rnd 10: Sl st in next dc and into ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 1, sc in first dc of pineapple base, (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc) 2 times, ch 1, shell in next shell sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 1, sc in first base dc, (ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc) 2 times, ch 1. Join. (6 shells, 18 sc, 12 ch-3 lps)
Rnd 11: Sl st in next dc and into ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 lp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp, ch 2, shell in next shell sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 2, sc in next ch-3 lp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp, ch 2. Join. (6 shells, 12 sc, 6 ch-3 lps)
Rnd 12: Sl st in next dc and into ch-2 sp, ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp (pineapple tip), ch 3, shell in next shell sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 3, sc in next ch-3 lp, ch 3. Join. (6 shells, 6 tip sc, 12 ch-3 sps)
Each pineapple now narrows from 5 dc to 2 loops, then 1 loop, then a single tip. The wall should be 3.2 in (8.1 cm) tall from the Rnd 6 ridge. Do not fasten off. Go to the Border section and work the scalloped rim, then come back for the next basket.
Straps (Make 2)
Foundation: Ch 83.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (82 sc)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (82 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing. Each strap is 21.9 in (55.6 cm) long and 0.7 in (1.8 cm) wide.
Counting from one end, mark the strap sections with stitch markers:
- Sts 1–8: ring loop, 2.1 in (5.3 cm)
- Sts 9–30: top drop, 5.9 in (15.0 cm)
- Sts 31–42: Basket 1 wall, 3.2 in (8.1 cm)
- Sts 43–50: gap, 2.1 in (5.3 cm)
- Sts 51–62: Basket 2 wall, 3.2 in (8.1 cm)
- Sts 63–70: gap, 2.1 in (5.3 cm)
- Sts 71–82: Basket 3 wall, 3.2 in (8.1 cm)
Total: 8 + 22 + 12 + 8 + 12 + 8 + 12 = 82 sts.
Make All Pieces
All pieces use Cream.
- Baskets: 3, about 39 g each
- Straps: 2, about 13 g each
- Wooden ring: 1
That comes to about 143 g. The extra 15% margin brings the total to 170 g.
Layout (front view):
( ring )
/ \
strap strap
| [B1] |
| |
| [B2] |
| |
| [B3] |
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with the strap’s yarn tail, through the strap edges and the outer wall of each basket.
Ring loop: Pass the end of one strap through the wooden ring from front to back. Fold sts 1–8 around the ring and sew st 1 flat against st 9. Do the same with the second strap, placing it beside the first on the ring.
Baskets: Lay the holder flat with the ring at the top. Pin strap sts 31–42 over the st 1 marker column of Basket 1. St 42 goes at the Rnd 6 ridge and st 31 at the top of Rnd 12. Pin the second strap the same way over the st 31 marker column on the opposite side. Repeat for Basket 2 (strap sts 51–62) and Basket 3 (strap sts 71–82).
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each wall section has 12 strap stitches covering 7 wall rounds (Rnd 6 to Rnd 12). Each dc round is 0.5 in (1.3 cm), and at 3.75 sts per inch that is just under 2 strap stitches. Sew 2 strap stitches to each dc round, and let the first one also catch the Rnd 6 ridge. Sew down both long edges of the strap so it lies flat and doesn’t twist.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch just snug enough to close the gap. If you pull harder, the wall will pucker. Don’t sew the gap sections (sts 43–50 and 63–70).
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder. The baskets should hang level, 2.1 in (5.3 cm) apart. From the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket should be about 22.4 in (56.9 cm).
Border: Scalloped Rim
Work this rim on each basket right after Rnd 12, before joining.
Border gauge: The rim keeps the wall gauge of 15 dc = 4 in (10.2 cm) and adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of height.
Rnd 13: Sl st in next dc and into ch-2 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in tip sc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next shell sp; rep from * 4 more times, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in tip sc, 4 dc in next ch-3 sp. Join to first sc. (6 sc + 54 dc = 60 sts)
Each repeat is 1 sc + 9 dc = 10 sts. That makes 6 scallops, each centered over a pineapple tip. The sc dips between scallops sit on top of the shell columns.
Counts per side: With the markers at sts 1 and 31, each half of the rim (front and back) has 3 scallops and 30 sts: 3 sc + 27 dc.
Why the math works: The rim brings the count back to 60, the same as Rnd 7 and the 10-stitch lace repeat. That keeps the rim the same width as the lace below it, so it neither ruffles nor pulls in. The straps run up through the dips between scallops, so no scallop gets flattened by a seam.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends first, hiding them inside the solid base stitches.
- Wrap a toilet paper roll, or a can about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, in plastic.
- Mist one basket until it is damp but not soaked.
- Stand the form upright and pull the basket down over it until the base sits flat on top.
- Shape each scallop with your fingers. Pin the tips evenly if needed.
- Flatten the straps gently and smooth out any twists.
- Let it dry completely, 12–24 hours, before hanging.
- Repeat for the other two baskets.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 5 in (12.7 cm) across and sits flat
- Each basket has 60 sts in Rnds 5, 6, 7 and 13
- Each basket has six pineapples, and each narrows to a single tip
- Each rim has six even scallops
- Each strap has 82 sts and 3 rows
- The straps sit on opposite sides, over the shell columns
- The baskets hang level, 2.1 in (5.3 cm) apart
- A standard roll slides in easily and shows above the rim
- All ends are woven in securely
Troubleshooting
Base cups upward: Your increase rounds are too tight. Use one hook size up for the base only.
Base ruffles: Your tension is too loose. Go down a hook size, or check that your increases are spaced correctly.
Wall flares too much: Keep the chains in Rnds 10–12 short and snug. A slight flare at the top is intended.
Pineapples look lopsided: Recount the base dc in Rnd 9. Each repeat needs exactly 5.
Rim waves: Check that you worked 4 dc, not 5, in each ch-3 sp.
Baskets tilt: The straps are off-center. Re-sew them over the st 1 and st 31 marker columns.
Straps stretch: Use a firmer cotton, or add a fourth row of sc.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press the water out in a towel, then reshape the baskets over a roll and dry flat.
Final Notes
The measurements follow on from each other. The 60-stitch base sets a 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter. Each wall round through Rnd 7 keeps those 60 stitches, and the 10-stitch pineapple repeat splits them into 6 motifs. The rim brings the count back to 60 and adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm), for a 3.7 in (9.4 cm) basket. Two 82-stitch straps hold the three baskets 2.1 in (5.3 cm) apart, for a finished length of about 22.4 in (56.9 cm). If every checkpoint matches, the holder will hang straight and neat.
Happy crocheting!