The Rosewood Fan Hanging Basket is a two-tier wall organizer. It is made from two identical round baskets, stacked one above the other on a pair of crocheted cords. Each basket has a solid, sturdy bottom, a lacy band of open fans and V-stitch lattice around the middle, and a firm rim finished with a twisted edge.
The sample uses a single dusty rose cotton, which keeps the lace crisp. A small wooden dowel sits at each side of each rim, with the cord wrapped around it. That gives the piece a tidy, Scandinavian look. Each basket holds bottles, brushes, or two rolls of toilet paper.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished basket measures about 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across the base and 5 in (12.7 cm) tall. Hung up, the organizer is about 21 in (53.3 cm) from the top loop to the base of the bottom basket.
Each basket starts as a flat single crochet circle. A back-loop round turns the work upward, and solid rounds build the lower wall. Next comes the fan lace, then a round that converts back to solid single crochet, and finally the rim border. Two slip-stitch cords are sewn to the baskets, wrapped around four dowels, and joined at the top into a hanging loop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (each basket): 8.5 in (21.6 cm) base diameter, 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
- Hanging length: about 21 in (53.3 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 2 baskets, 2 strap cords, 4 wooden dowels
- Layout: 1 column of 2 baskets, stacked vertically
- Basket height before border: about 4 in (10.2 cm), through Rnd 31
- Border depth: about 1 in (2.5 cm), Rnds 32–35
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend with good stitch definition. Avoid acrylic and very soft yarns, because they stretch under weight and the baskets will sag.
- Dusty rose: 250 g / about 440 m (480 yd)
This covers both baskets (about 105 g each) and both cords (about 20 g in total). The quantity includes a margin of roughly 20 g for differences in tension.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- 4 hardwood dowels, each 0.5 in (1.3 cm) diameter and 2 in (5.1 cm) long, sanded smooth
- 1 stitch marker, plus 2 markers in a contrasting color
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors and a measuring tape
- Wall hook rated for at least 5 lb (2.3 kg)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sk – skip
- sp / lp – space / loop
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd – round
V-st (V-stitch): (dc, ch 2, dc) in the same stitch or space. In Rnd 26 only, the V-st is worked as (dc, ch 3, dc).
Rev sc: Work from left to right (if you crochet right-handed). Insert the hook in the next stitch to the right, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked in sc in the round.
Make one complete basket before you start the second. It tells you far more than a swatch does, and you can match the second basket to it exactly.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 6 (36 sts): base about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across
- After Rnd 12 (72 sts): base about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across
- After Rnd 18 (108 sts): base 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across, with a 27 in (68.6 cm) circumference
- After Rnd 25: wall about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall
- After Rnd 31: wall about 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- After Rnd 35: wall 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
If your base is too big, go down a hook size. If it is too small, go up a size. If the base cups upward, your tension is tighter than gauge, so go up a size. If it ruffles, go down a size. Do not add or remove increase rounds, because the lace repeat needs exactly 108 stitches.
Basket (Make 2)
Base
Work in continuous rounds. Mark the first stitch of each round and move the marker up as you go.
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc in the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in next st, inc 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in next st, inc, sc in next 2 sts, inc 5 times, sc in next st. (24 sts)
Rnds 5–18: Keep increasing 6 times per round. On any round n, each of the 6 repeats is (n − 2) sc followed by 1 inc. On even rounds, work half of the plain stitches at the start and the other half at the end, as in Rnd 4. This staggers the increases so the base stays round.
Round totals:
- Rnd 5: 30 sts
- Rnd 6: 36 sts
- Rnd 7: 42 sts
- Rnd 8: 48 sts
- Rnd 9: 54 sts
- Rnd 10: 60 sts
- Rnd 11: 66 sts
- Rnd 12: 72 sts
- Rnd 13: 78 sts
- Rnd 14: 84 sts
- Rnd 15: 90 sts
- Rnd 16: 96 sts
- Rnd 17: 102 sts
- Rnd 18: 108 sts
At the end of Rnd 18, sl st in the next st to smooth out the step. From here on, join every round.
Solid Lower Wall
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join with sl st to first sc. (108 sts)
This back-loop round leaves a ridge on the outside and turns the work upward.
Rnds 20–25: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (108 sts)
Fan Lace Band
The lace is a 12-stitch repeat, worked 9 times around.
Rnd 26 (foundation): Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next st, ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st, ch 5, sk 5 sts 9 times, join with sl st to first sc.
Each repeat uses 1 + 2 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 5 = 12 stitches. (18 sc, 9 V-sts, 18 ch-3 sps, 9 ch-5 sps)
Rnd 27 (fan base): Ch 1, sc in next sc, sk ch-3 sp, 7 dc in ch-3 sp of V-st, sk ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, ch 2, V-st in ch-5 sp, ch 2 9 times, join to first sc. (9 fans of 7 dc, 18 sc, 9 V-sts)
Rnd 28 (fan opens): Sl st in first dc of fan, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), [dc in next dc, ch 1] 5 times, dc in last dc of fan, ch 3, sk sc and ch-2 sp, sc in ch-2 sp of V-st, ch 3, sk ch-2 sp and sc, dc in first dc of next fan, ch 1. Repeat from * around, ending the last repeat at **, then join with sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (63 dc, 54 ch-1 sps, 9 sc, 18 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 29 (fan tips): Sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in ch-1 sp, ch 3] 5 times, sc in 6th ch-1 sp of fan, ch 2, sk ch-3 sp, V-st in sc, ch 2, sk ch-3 sp 9 times, join to first sc. (54 sc, 45 ch-3 lps, 9 V-sts)
Rnd 30 (lattice): Sl st in first ch-3 lp, sl st in next sc, sl st in 2nd ch-3 lp, ch 1, sc in 2nd ch-3 lp of fan, ch 4, sc in 4th ch-3 lp, ch 4, sc in ch-2 sp of V-st, ch 4 9 times, join to first sc. (27 sc, 27 ch-4 sps)
The first sc of this round goes into the loop you are already in. The 1st and 5th loops of each fan are skipped, so they curl outward as small scallops.
Rnd 31 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in sc, 3 sc in next ch-4 sp 27 times, join. (27 sc worked 1 per existing sc + 81 sc worked into ch-4 sps = 108 sts)
Checkpoint: you are back to 108 sts, and the wall measures about 4 in (10.2 cm). Go straight on to the Border.
Make All Pieces
Make 2 baskets in dusty rose, each with 108 sts at the rim. Then make 2 strap cords.
Strap cord (make 2): Ch 117, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in the back bump of each ch across. (116 sl sts) Fasten off, leaving another 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Cord gauge: 9 ch = 2 in (5.1 cm). Each finished cord is 26 in (66.0 cm) long and about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) wide.
Layout (front view):
[ top loop ]
/ \
cord A cord B
| |
(dowel) TOP (dowel)
| BASKET |
| 3 in gap |
(dowel) BOTTOM (dowel)
| BASKET |
Joining
Block and border both baskets before you join anything.
Placement: On each basket, put a contrasting marker in st 1 and in st 55 of Rnd 35. These are exactly 54 sts apart, so the cords sit directly opposite each other and the basket hangs level. Turn each basket so the seam from the joined rounds faces the wall.
Cord path (each cord, from the bottom up):
- Lay the cord’s lower end against the bottom basket’s outside wall at a marker, with the end at the Rnd 19 ridge. Run it straight up the wall to the rim, a distance of 5 in (12.7 cm).
- Wrap the cord once around the middle of a dowel, so the dowel sits horizontally just above the rim. The wrap uses about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) of cord.
- Leave a 3 in (7.6 cm) gap. Then lay the cord up the top basket’s wall at its marker, from the Rnd 19 ridge to the rim, a distance of 5 in (12.7 cm).
- Wrap a second dowel the same way.
- The rest of the cord, about 9.5 in (24.1 cm), rises toward the top loop.
Sewing: Use the cord tail or a separate length of yarn to whipstitch the cord to the wall. Make 1 stitch through the cord for every sc round, always catching the same vertical column of stitches. In the lace band, sew through the post of each dc or sc in that column. Sew through the wrapped cord and the cord underneath it on both sides of each dowel so the dowel cannot slide.
Tension: Keep the cord flat but not stretched. If you pull it tight while sewing, the wall will pucker and the basket will tilt forward.
Top loop: Overlap the top ends of the two cords by 2 in (5.1 cm). Fold the overlapped section in half to make a loop and sew through all the layers.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer. It should measure about 21 in (53.3 cm) from the top of the loop to the base of the bottom basket, and both rims should be level.
Border
Work the border on each basket straight after Rnd 31, without fastening off.
Border gauge: same as the body, 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), so 108 sts = 27 in (68.6 cm) around.
Rnds 32–34: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (108 sts in each round)
Rnd 35: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. (108 rev sc) Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: The base ends with 108 sts, and every solid wall round either keeps 108 sts or returns to that number. The lace is 9 repeats of 12 sts (9 × 12 = 108), and the conversion round brings the count back to 27 + 81 = 108. Since the rim has the same count as the base edge, the walls rise straight instead of flaring out or pulling in. Rev sc is worked 1 per st, so it adds a firm twisted edge without changing the circumference.
Final Blocking
- Fill each basket firmly with a towel to hold the shape.
- Mist the outside with water until it is damp but not soaked.
- Use your fingers to gently open up the fans and lattice so each fan spreads evenly.
- Press the base flat on a towel and straighten the Rnd 19 ridge.
- Let the baskets dry completely, for at least 24 hours.
- Take out the towels. Check that each rim is round and each basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Both bases measure 8.5 in (21.6 cm) and lie flat.
- Rnds 19–25 and 31–35 each have 108 sts.
- Each basket has 9 even fans.
- Both baskets are 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
- The cords sit at sts 1 and 55, directly opposite each other.
- All four dowels are horizontal and centered in their wraps.
- The gap between the baskets is 3 in (7.6 cm).
- The top loop is secure and all tails are woven in.
Troubleshooting
Base is wavy: You have too many stitches for your tension. Go down a hook size.
Base cups upward before Rnd 19: Your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size.
Fan count is off: Recount Rnd 25. It must have exactly 108 sts before Rnd 26.
Lace looks lopsided: Check that each fan has 7 dc and that each V-st sits centered between two fans.
Rim flares: Count Rnd 31. If you worked 4 sc into any ch-4 sp, rip back and redo it.
Basket tilts forward: The cords are off-center or sewn too tightly. Re-sew them at sts 1 and 55 with looser tension.
Cord stretches: Sew it down at every round, or remake it in a firmer cotton.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water in a towel and dry flat, with the baskets stuffed so they keep their shape. If the dowels are unsealed, take them out before washing.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. At 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), 108 sts make a 27 in (68.6 cm) circumference and an 8.5 in (21.6 cm) base. The walls hold 108 sts through 9 fan repeats of 12 and reach 4 in (10.2 cm) at Rnd 31. A 1 in (2.5 cm) border brings them to 5 in (12.7 cm). Two 26 in (66.0 cm) cords, four dowels, and a 3 in (7.6 cm) gap between baskets give a hanging length of about 21 in (53.3 cm).
Happy crocheting!