This hanging organizer holds three spare rolls in a neat vertical stack. Each cream pocket is worked in a deep waffle stitch with a grid texture, trimmed in sage green, and finished with a small fern leaf sewn across the front. Two solid sage straps run up the sides and loop over a towel bar or wall rod.
The look is calm and natural: cream and soft green, firm fabric, crisp edges. It suits a spa-style or farmhouse bathroom, and the straps fit most standard bars.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 9″ (22.9 cm) wide, 27″ (68.6 cm) long from the top fold of the loops to the bottom of the straps, and 4.5″ (11.4 cm) deep. Each pocket is 6″ (15.2 cm) wide, 4.5″ (11.4 cm) deep and 3.75″ (9.5 cm) tall.
You will make each pocket from the bottom up as a seamless box. First crochet a flat single crochet base, then work the walls upward in joined rounds. After that you make two straps in rows, edge them, and crochet three leaves. Last, you sew the pockets between the straps and add the leaves.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 9″ x 27″ x 4.5″ (22.9 x 68.6 x 11.4 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (front post stitches, working in rounds, reverse single crochet)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 8 (3 pockets, 2 straps, 3 leaves)
- Layout: 1 column of 3 pockets between 2 straps
- Pocket size: 6″ x 4.5″ base (15.2 x 11.4 cm), 3.75″ (9.5 cm) tall
- Pocket wall before rim trim: 3.25″ (8.3 cm) tall
- Rim trim depth: 0.5″ (1.3 cm)
- Strap size: 30″ x 1.5″ (76.2 x 3.8 cm) after its 0.25″ (0.6 cm) edging
Materials
Choose a worsted yarn with good stitch definition. Cotton or a cotton blend gives the firmest pockets and handles bathroom humidity well. Smooth acrylic also works. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarns, because they hide the waffle grid and the pockets will sag.
- Cream (main color): 220 g, about 420 m
- Sage green (contrast color): 220 g, about 420 m
These quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching and joining tails.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch markers (at least 4)
– Measuring tape
– Pins or clips
– Spray bottle or steam iron (for blocking)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- FPdc – front post double crochet: yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, then complete as a dc
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch): working from left to right (right-handed), insert hook into the next stitch to the right and complete a sc
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitch – Leaflet: Ch 5. Working back along these chains: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, then sl st into the stem stitch where the leaflet began.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Single crochet: 16 sts x 16 rows = 4″ (10.2 cm)
- Double crochet / waffle rounds: 16 sts x 8 rnds = 4″ (10.2 cm)
Make one complete pocket before you start the rest. It works as your gauge swatch, and every later piece depends on it.
Checkpoints:
1. Base after Row 18: 6″ x 4.5″ (15.2 x 11.4 cm).
2. After the base edging: the edge measures 21″ (53.3 cm) around.
3. After wall Rnd 7: the wall is 3.25″ (8.3 cm) tall from the base ridge.
4. After the rim trim: the wall is 3.75″ (9.5 cm) tall.
5. Strap after edging: 30″ x 1.5″ (76.2 x 3.8 cm).
If your piece is too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it is too small, go up 0.5 mm. Don’t add or remove stitches. Every stitch count below is set up so the waffle repeats line up with the pocket corners.
Pocket (make 3)
Base
With sage, ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (24 sts)
Rows 2–18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (24 sts)
The base should measure 6″ x 4.5″ (15.2 x 11.4 cm). Don’t fasten off.
Base edging: Ch 1. Work around the base: sc 24 across the last row, sc 18 down the row ends, sc 24 across the foundation chain, and sc 18 up the row ends. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (84 sts: 24 + 18 + 24 + 18)
Don’t add extra corner stitches. The edge will cup slightly at the corners, which helps the walls stand up straight. Put a marker in the first stitch of each side. Treat the first 24-stitch side as the back.
Walls
Rnd 1 (sage): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (84 sts)
The unworked front loops form the sage ridge at the base. Change to cream on the final yarn-over of the join and fasten off sage.
Rnd 2 (cream): Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), dc in each st around, join to the first dc. (84 sts: 84 dc worked 1 per stitch + 0 added)
Rnd 3 (waffle A): Ch 2, *FPdc around next st, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join. (84 sts: 28 FPdc + 56 dc)
Rnd 4 (waffle B): Ch 2, *dc in next st, FPdc around next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join. (84 sts: 28 dc + 56 FPdc)
Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 3. (84 sts)
Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 4. (84 sts)
Rnd 7: Repeat Rnd 3. (84 sts)
The walls are 3.25″ (8.3 cm) tall: 0.25″ (0.6 cm) of sc plus 6 dc rounds at 0.5″ (1.3 cm) each. Change to sage on the final join and fasten off cream.
The rim trim comes later in the Border section. If you’re making the first pocket as a test, finish its trim now, then check it against Checkpoint 4.
Strap (make 2)
With sage, ch 119.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (118 sts)
Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (118 sts)
The strap measures 29.5″ x 1″ (74.9 x 2.5 cm). Don’t fasten off. The edging is in the Border section.
Fern Leaf (make 3)
With sage, ch 17. This chain is the stem. Number the chains from the hook: ch 1 is next to the hook and becomes the tip, and ch 16 is the stalk end. The 17th chain is the turning chain and isn’t used.
Side 1: Sl st in ch 1. Work 1 leaflet at the tip. *Sl st in next 2 ch, work 1 leaflet; repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st in the remaining 5 ch. (11 sl sts along the stem, 6 leaflets including the tip)
Side 2: Ch 1 and rotate the leaf to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain. Sl st in the first 5 ch (stalk). *Work 1 leaflet, sl st in next 2 ch; repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st into the tip. Fasten off, leaving a 12″ (30.5 cm) tail for sewing. (5 more leaflets, 11 total)
The leaf measures about 3.5″ x 2.25″ (8.9 x 5.7 cm). The leaflets on the two sides are slightly offset, which gives the natural fern look in the photo.
Make All Pieces
- Pockets: 3 (cream walls; sage base, ridge and rim)
- Straps: 2 (sage)
- Leaves: 3 (sage)
Layout, viewed from the front (S = strap, P = pocket):
S | loop | S
S | | S
S | P3 | S
S | gap | S
S | P2 | S
S | gap | S
S | P1 | S
S | tail | S
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with sage and a tapestry needle.
Lay each strap flat with its wrong side up and its bottom end toward you. Count stitches along the inner long edge, starting from the bottom corner ch-1 space.
- Skip 1 st (0.5″ or 1.3 cm tail, including the edging).
- Pocket 1: sts 2–16.
- Gap: sts 17–22 (1.5″ or 3.8 cm).
- Pocket 2: sts 23–37.
- Gap: sts 38–43.
- Pocket 3: sts 44–58.
Mark these sections on both straps.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each pocket is sewn along its back vertical corner, where the back wall meets the side wall. That corner is 9 rounds tall: 1 sc round, 6 dc rounds and 2 trim rounds. Each 15-stitch strap section matches it:
- 1 strap st for the sc round
- 2 strap sts for each dc round (6 rounds × 2 = 12)
- 1 strap st for each trim round (2)
- Total: 1 + 12 + 2 = 15
Sew Pocket 1’s left back corner to the right strap’s marked section from bottom to top, then sew its right back corner to the left strap. The base edge should line up with the lowest marked stitch. Repeat for Pockets 2 and 3.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug but not tight. The seams carry the weight of the rolls, so go through both loops of the strap and the full corner stitch. Make a second pass on the way back down.
Leaves: Pin one leaf diagonally across the center of each pocket’s front wall, with the stalk at the lower left and the tip toward the upper right. Whipstitch around the stem and the base of each leaflet, leaving the leaflet tips loose so the leaf stands out slightly from the waffle texture.
Loops: Fold the top 3″ (7.6 cm) of each strap to the back. Sew the end flat to the strap 6″ (15.2 cm) from the top, sewing across all 6 width stitches twice. This makes a loop with a 6″ (15.2 cm) circumference, large enough for bars up to about 1.5″ (3.8 cm) across.
Size checkpoint: The joined holder is 9″ (22.9 cm) wide: 1.5″ + 6″ + 1.5″ (3.8 + 15.2 + 3.8 cm). It hangs 27″ (68.6 cm) from the loop fold, with 12.25″ (31.1 cm) between the top of Pocket 3 and the fold.
Border
The border for this design is the rim trim on each pocket and the edging on each strap. The text puts it here for clarity, but work it on each piece before you join. Border gauge is the sc gauge: 16 sts x 16 rnds = 4″ (10.2 cm), so each round adds 0.25″ (0.6 cm).
Pocket Rim Trim
Rnd 8 (sage): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (84 sts: back 24, side 18, front 24, side 18)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. Fasten off and weave in the ends. (84 sts: back 24, side 18, front 24, side 18)
The rev sc gives the corded, braided-looking rim edge.
Why the math works: The base edging set 24 sts on the front and back and 18 on each side. Every wall round keeps all 84. Both 24 and 18 are multiples of 3, so each side holds whole waffle repeats: 8 on the front and back, 6 on each side. The grid turns every corner cleanly and the trim sits flat with no increases. At 4 sts per inch, 84 sts equals the 21″ (53.3 cm) perimeter of the base.
Strap Edging
Rnd 1 (sage): Ch 1. Work around the strap, with (sc, ch 1, sc) at each corner, as follows:
- Long sides: 118 sc each
- Short ends: 4 sc each (1 per row end)
Join. Fasten off. (244 sc: 118 + 4 + 118 + 4, plus 4 corner ch-1 spaces that aren’t counted as stitches)
Why the math works: The corner sc are the first and last stitches of each side, so they’re included in the 118 and 4. They aren’t counted twice. One round adds 0.25″ (0.6 cm) on every edge:
- Width: 1″ + 0.5″ = 1.5″ (2.5 + 1.3 = 3.8 cm)
- Length: 29.5″ + 0.5″ = 30″ (74.9 + 1.3 = 76.2 cm)
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends securely, going in three directions inside the fabric.
- Put a roll of toilet paper, or a rolled towel 4.5″ (11.4 cm) across, into each pocket to square up the box.
- Mist the pockets lightly or hold a steam iron 1″ (2.5 cm) above them. Don’t press the waffle texture flat.
- Pin the straps flat to 30″ x 1.5″ (76.2 x 3.8 cm) and steam or mist them.
- Pat the leaves flat and shape each leaflet with your fingers.
- Let everything dry completely before you hang the holder.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each pocket base is 6″ x 4.5″ (15.2 x 11.4 cm).
- [ ] Each wall is 3.75″ (9.5 cm) tall with 84 sts in every round.
- [ ] The waffle grid lines up at all four corners of each pocket.
- [ ] The rev sc rim lies flat without flaring.
- [ ] Both straps measure 30″ x 1.5″ (76.2 x 3.8 cm).
- [ ] The pockets are evenly spaced, with 1.5″ (3.8 cm) gaps.
- [ ] The seams are double-stitched and hold a full roll.
- [ ] All three leaves are angled the same way.
- [ ] The loops are the same size, so the holder hangs level.
Troubleshooting
The pocket walls flare outward: Your dc gauge is too loose. Go down a hook size for Rnds 2–7.
The walls lean inward: The FPdc stitches are pulling too tightly. Loosen the yarn-over around the post, or go up 0.5 mm for the waffle rounds only.
The waffle grid is offset at the corners: You started a round away from the back corner. Begin each round at the first back marker.
The joining seam is lumpy: Recount: you need 15 strap stitches for each 9-round pocket corner.
The rolls sit crooked: Check that the left and right strap sections start at the same stitch number.
The rim trim ripples: Work the rev sc more loosely, or skip the ch 1 at the start of the round.
Care
Spot clean when you can. Otherwise, hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with a rolled towel inside each pocket.
Final Notes
Every measurement builds on the one before it:
- The 16-stitch gauge gives a 6″ x 4.5″ (15.2 x 11.4 cm) base.
- That base gives an 84-stitch, 21″ (53.3 cm) perimeter.
- The walls rise to 3.25″ (8.3 cm), and the trim brings them to 3.75″ (9.5 cm).
- Each 3.75″ corner matches 15 strap stitches.
- Three pockets with two gaps reach 14.75″ (37.5 cm) up a 27″ (68.6 cm) hanging length.
- The straps on both sides bring the total width to 9″ (22.9 cm).
If you check your gauge once and the counts at each stage, the finished holder will hang straight. Happy crocheting!