Cream and sage green crocheted toilet paper holder with three compartments and brass ring hanging on beige wall.

Sage Meadow Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

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The Sage Meadow Hanging Toilet Paper Holder stores three spare rolls in a slim vertical column. Each basket holds one standard roll upright, and the holder hangs from a wooden ring on a hook or towel knob.

The palette is sage green and cream. Each basket starts with a solid green base and a short green wall band. Alternating cream and green granny-cluster stripes follow, and a cream scalloped rim finishes the top. Narrow green straps join the tiers, so it looks light and handmade without being fussy.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide. It is about 22.75 in (57.8 cm) long from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.

You make three identical baskets from the bottom up in joined rounds, plus four short connector straps and one hanging tab with two legs. Sewing the straps to the baskets joins everything into one holder.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide x 22.75 in (57.8 cm) long, including the ring
  • Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 8 crocheted pieces (3 baskets, 4 connector straps, 1 hanging tab), plus 1 wooden ring
  • Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets with 2 gaps of 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
  • Piece size (one basket): base about 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across, 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall
  • Size before border: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall after Rnd 18
  • Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of scallops

Materials

Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the cylinder shape well and stands up to bathroom humidity. Acrylic also works, but the baskets will be a little softer.

  • Color A, sage green: 70 g / 112 m (122 yd)
  • Color B, cream: 45 g / 72 m (79 yd)
  • 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
  • Wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) outer diameter
  • Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape

These quantities include a margin of about 30 percent, which covers the gauge swatch, sewing tails, and small tension differences.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • dc: double crochet
  • BLO: back loop only
  • inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
  • sp: space
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • rnd(s): round(s)

Special stitches

  • Cluster: 3 dc worked into the same stitch or space.
  • Scallop: (hdc, dc, hdc) worked into the same stitch.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. Five cluster rounds measure 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tall.

Crochet one complete basket before you start the others. It acts as your gauge swatch, and it shows whether a roll fits.

Checkpoints for one basket:

  • After Rnd 3 (18 sts): the base is 1.6 in (4.1 cm) across.
  • After Rnd 6 (36 sts): the base is 3.3 in (8.4 cm) across.
  • After Rnd 9 (54 sts): the base is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across.
  • After Rnd 12: the wall is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall.
  • After Rnd 17: the wall is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
  • After Rnd 19: the wall is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.

Too big: Go down to a 4.5 mm hook and remake the base. Don’t remove a round, because 48 stitches leaves the basket too narrow for a roll.

Too small: Go up to a 5.5 mm hook. For jumbo rolls, you can add one base round to reach 60 sts. 60 is still a multiple of 3 and 6, so every pattern repeat works (20 clusters, 20 scallops).

Sage green and cream striped crochet bag with wooden ring handle hanging from brass wall hook.

Basket (Make 3)

Work in joined rounds with the right side facing throughout. The ch 1 at the start of a sc round doesn’t count as a stitch. The ch 3 at the start of a cluster round counts as the first dc. Keep every join on the same vertical line so it becomes the center back of the basket.

Base (Color A)

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, join with sl st to the first sc. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st 6 times, join. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc 6 times, join. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc 6 times, join. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc 6 times, join. (36 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, inc 6 times, join. (42 sts)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, inc 6 times, join. (48 sts)

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in next 7 sts, inc 6 times, join. (54 sts)

Tip: To keep the circle round instead of hexagonal, move the increase to the middle of the repeat on alternate rounds. The stitch counts stay the same.

Lower Wall (Color A)

Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (54 sts) The unused front loops make a crisp fold where the wall turns upward.

Rnds 11–12: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (54 sts)

On the last sl st of Rnd 12, change to Color B. Carry the unused color loosely up the inside of the basket at the back seam. The roll hides it.

Cluster Stripes

Rnd 13 (Color B): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the same st, skip next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st 17 times, skip last 2 sts, join with sl st to the top of ch 3. (18 clusters, 54 dc)

Change to Color A on the join.

Rnd 14 (Color A): Sl st in next 2 dc and into the sp before the next cluster. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same sp, 3 dc in next sp between clusters 17 times, join to the top of ch 3. (18 clusters, 54 dc)

Change to Color B on the join.

Rnd 15 (Color B): Repeat Rnd 14. (18 clusters, 54 dc)

Rnd 16 (Color A): Repeat Rnd 14. (18 clusters, 54 dc)

At the end of Rnd 16, change to Color B and fasten off Color A, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.

Rnd 17 (Color B): Repeat Rnd 14. (18 clusters, 54 dc)

Checkpoint: The wall should be 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. The clusters should stack in neat offset columns.

Top Band (Color B)

Rnd 18 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join and in each dc around, join. (54 sc = 54 worked 1 per existing stitch + 0 added)

Don’t work into the small gaps between clusters. Work only into the tops of the dc.

The scallop rim is worked next, in the Border section.

Make All Pieces

Totals:

  • 3 baskets (Color A base, lower wall, and Rnds 14 and 16; Color B Rnds 13, 15, 17, 18 and the scallop rim)
  • 4 connector straps (Color A)
  • 1 hanging tab with 2 legs (Color B Rows 1–2, Color A for the rest)

Connector Strap (Make 4, Color A)

Ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 2 ch. (3 sts)

Rows 2–12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing. Each strap measures 3 in (7.6 cm) long and about 7/8 in (2.2 cm) wide.

Hanging Tab (Make 1)

Row 1 (Color B): Join the yarn around the wooden ring. Ch 1, then work 8 sc over the ring. (8 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8 sts) Change to Color A on the last st.

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, inc in the first st, sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the last st. (10 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (10 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, turn, inc in the first st, sc in the next 8 sts, inc in the last st. (12 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (12 sts)

The tab is now 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall. It tapers from 2.3 in (5.8 cm) at the ring to 3.4 in (8.6 cm) at Row 6.

Leg 1:

  • Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc in the first 3 sts only. (3 sts)
  • Rows 8–22: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sts)

Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.

Leg 2: With the same side facing as Row 7, join Color A in the 3rd st from the other end of Row 6. Work Rows 7–22 the same as Leg 1. Leave the middle 6 sts of Row 6 unworked.

Each leg is 16 rows, or 4 in (10.2 cm) long.

Layout Grid

        [ ring + tab ]
         /          \
     [   Basket 1 (top)   ]
       |              |      <- 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap
     [   Basket 2 (middle) ]
       |              |      <- 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap
     [   Basket 3 (bottom) ]

Joining

Finish the scallop border on all three baskets before you join anything.

Mark the strap positions. Count from the back seam on each basket. Place markers on sts 13–15 and 40–42 of Rnd 18, and on the matching sts 13–15 and 40–42 of Rnd 12. These two 3-st columns are 27 sts apart, so they sit exactly opposite each other at the sides.

Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each strap is 3 sts wide and covers 3 wall sts. Each overlap is 3 rows of 0.25 in (0.6 cm), so it covers 0.75 in (1.9 cm). Lower wall Rnds 10–12 are exactly 3 sc rounds tall, so the strap end fills that band from the base fold to the first cluster round.

Join Basket 2 to Basket 3:

  1. Lay a connector strap over the scallop of Basket 3 at sts 13–15.
  2. Whipstitch its last 3 rows to the outside of Rnds 17–18. Sew across the 3 sts and down both edges.
  3. Sew the first 3 rows of the strap to the outside of Basket 2, over Rnds 10–12 at sts 13–15.
  4. Repeat on sts 40–42 with a second strap.

The exposed center 6 rows leave a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gap between the tiers.

Join Basket 1 to Basket 2 the same way with the remaining two connector straps.

Attach the hanging tab: Lay Leg 1 over the scallop of Basket 1 at sts 13–15. Sew its last 3 rows (Rows 20–22) to the outside of Rnds 17–18. Attach Leg 2 the same way at sts 40–42.

Tension advice: Sew firmly, but don’t pull the stitches so tight that the cluster wall puckers. Catch only the outer strand of each wall stitch so the stitching barely shows inside.

Size checkpoint: The three baskets plus the two gaps should measure 15.75 in (40.0 cm) from the bottom of Basket 3 to the rim of Basket 1. Check that all three back seams line up vertically.

Border: Scalloped Rim

Work this border on each basket right after Rnd 18, with Color B.

Border gauge: Each scallop uses 3 sts of Rnd 18 and is about 0.86 in (2.2 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.

Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join, skip the next st, (hdc, dc, hdc) in the next st. Sc in next st, skip next st, (hdc, dc, hdc) in next st 17 times. Join with sl st to the first sc.

Result: 18 scallops, made from 18 sc + 54 shell sts = 72 sts. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Counts per side: Treat the strap columns as dividing the rim into a front half and a back half. Each half holds 27 sts of Rnd 18, which makes 9 scallops per half.

Why the math works: 54 is divisible by 3. That gives 18 clusters in every cluster round and 18 scallop repeats on the rim, with nothing left over. Each scallop sits roughly above one cluster column. The straps fall between scallops, and the extra stitches in each shell flare the rim gently, so the edge stays wavy without ruffling.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends along stitches of the same color.
  2. Mist the whole holder lightly with water until it’s damp, not soaked.
  3. Slide a toilet paper roll (or a jar of similar size) into each basket to set the round shape.
  4. Pinch each scallop into an even curve with your fingers.
  5. Lay the holder flat and straighten the straps so both sides of each gap are 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
  6. Let it dry completely, then remove the forms.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Every base has 54 sts and lies flat.
  • Every cluster round has 18 clusters.
  • Rnd 18 has 54 sc, and Rnd 19 has 18 scallops.
  • Each basket is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
  • All back seams are aligned.
  • The straps sit exactly opposite each other on sts 13–15 and 40–42.
  • Both gaps measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
  • The baskets plus gaps total 15.75 in (40.0 cm).
  • The tab is secure around the ring, and no ends are visible.

Troubleshooting

Base cups or ruffles: A cupped base means your tension is too tight, so try a larger hook. A ruffled base usually means extra increases, so recount each round.

Cluster columns drift sideways: Work each cluster into the space between clusters, not into the top of a dc.

Wall leans outward: Your dc rounds are too loose. Go down half a hook size for Rnds 13–17 only.

Roll doesn’t fit: Add a base round to reach 60 sts. Move the strap markers to sts 15–17 and 45–47.

Baskets tilt: One strap is sewn higher than the other. Re-sew so both overlaps cover exactly 3 rows.

Visible color jogs: Keep every join at the back seam. The holder hangs with that side against the wall.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry, with a roll inside each basket to keep the shape. Don’t tumble dry.

Stacked crocheted toilet roll holder in cream and sage green hanging in a minimalist bathroom.

Final Notes

Here is the measurement chain:

  • The 54-st base is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) across.
  • The lower wall reaches 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
  • Five cluster rounds bring the wall to 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
  • The sc band makes it 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
  • The scallops finish each basket at 4.25 in (10.8 cm).
  • Three baskets and two 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps total 15.75 in (40.0 cm).
  • With the tab and ring, the holder is about 22.75 in (57.8 cm) long.

If your base matches the first checkpoint, the rest of the measurements should follow.

Happy crocheting!

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