Strawberry Milk Cow Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

This cheerful cow keeps plastic grocery bags tidy inside a cabinet door. Push bags in through the long oval slot in the front and pull them out one at a time from the small opening at the bottom.

The design uses three soft colors: a cream body, dusty rose spots, hooves and rim, and light tan for the muzzle and horns. Black safety eyes and a stitched smile give the cow a sweet, simple face. The look is classic amigurumi: tight single crochet, a stuffed head, and flat spots sewn on flush with the body.

The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished cow is about 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall without the loop and 17.75 in (45.1 cm) with it. The body is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat, and about 8 in (20.3 cm) wide across the arms.

You start at the bottom with a pink ring and increase into a cream tube. The front slot is made by working back and forth in rows, then a chain closes it and you go back to rounds. The top of the tube is decreased closed. After that you make the head and small parts, edge the slot, and sew everything together.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall without the loop, 17.75 in (45.1 cm) with it
• Skill level: Intermediate beginner
• Terminology: US crochet terms
• Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
• Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
• Number of pieces: 1 finished holder, made from 25 parts (body, head, muzzle, 2 ears, 2 horns, 2 arms, 2 feet, loop and 13 spots)
• Layout: Single piece; no grid
• Body size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 12.5 in (31.8 cm) long
• Front slot before border: about 1.75 in × 7.6 in (4.4 cm × 19.3 cm)
• Border depth: about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each side of the slot

Materials

Choose a smooth, firm cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when the tube is full of bags and doesn’t fuzz on cabinet doors.

• Cream: 150 g / 270 m
• Dusty rose pink: 60 g / 110 m
• Light tan: 20 g / 35 m
• Dark brown: 2 g / 4 m (nostrils)
• Black: 2 g / 4 m (smile)

These amounts include about a 15% margin.

Tools:
– 3.5 mm (E-4) hook
– Two 10 mm black safety eyes
– 30 g polyester fiberfill
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers
– Rust-proof pins
– Scissors

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec – invisible decrease: insert the hook in the front loops of the next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through both front loops, then yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on the hook
• MR – magic ring
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• rnd(s) – round(s)

Special technique: Unless a section says otherwise, work in continuous spiral rounds and move a marker up each round.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 18 sc × 20 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in rounds. Each round or row adds about 0.2 in (0.5 cm) of height.

Test first: Work Body Rnds 1–7 and lay the tube flat. It should be 6 in (15.2 cm) wide. If it’s wider, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If it’s narrower, go up 0.5 mm. Keep amigurumi fabric tight enough that stuffing won’t show through.

Checkpoints:
– After Body Rnd 12: 2.4 in (6.1 cm) tall
– After opening Row 38: 10 in (25.4 cm) tall
– Tube before the top decreases: 11.4 in (29.0 cm) tall
– Head: about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide

Body

Pink rim

With pink, ch 36 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Don’t twist the chain.

• Rnd 1: Sc in each ch around. (36)
• Rnd 2: Sc around. (36)
• Rnd 3: (Sc 5, inc) 6 times. (42)
• Rnd 4: (Sc 6, inc) 6 times. (48)
• Rnd 5: (Sc 7, inc) 6 times. (54)
• Rnds 6–7: Sc around. (54)

Change to cream.

Lower body

• Rnds 8–12: Sc around. (54)

The marker now shows the center front. Checkpoint: 2.4 in (6.1 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.

Front opening (worked in rows)

• Row 1: Ch 1, turn. Sc 46, working back over the last 46 sts of Rnd 12. Leave the first 8 sts of Rnd 12 unworked; they form the bottom edge of the slot. (46)
• Rows 2–38: Ch 1, turn, sc 46. (46)

Checkpoint: the slot is 38 rows tall, 7.6 in (19.3 cm).

Closing the opening

At the end of Row 38, ch 8. Sl st into the first sc of Row 38 so the chain bridges the gap above the 8 unworked stitches. Go back to working in spiral rounds.

• Rnd 13: Sc in each of the 46 sc of Row 38, then sc in each of the 8 ch. Total: 46 + 8 = 54. (54)
• Rnds 14–19: Sc around. (54)

Checkpoint: the tube is 11.4 in (29.0 cm) tall.

Top decreases

Don’t stuff this part. The top is a soft dome that bags rest against.

• Rnd 20: (Sc 7, dec) 6 times. (48)
• Rnd 21: (Sc 6, dec) 6 times. (42)
• Rnd 22: (Sc 5, dec) 6 times. (36)
• Rnd 23: (Sc 4, dec) 6 times. (30)
• Rnd 24: (Sc 3, dec) 6 times. (24)
• Rnd 25: (Sc 2, dec) 6 times. (18)
• Rnd 26: (Sc 1, dec) 6 times. (12)
• Rnd 27: Dec 6 times. (6)

Fasten off, weave the tail through the front loops of the last 6 stitches, pull it closed and secure it. The body measures about 12.5 in (31.8 cm) long.

Head

With cream:

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
• Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) 6 times. (18)
• Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) 6 times. (24)
• Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) 6 times. (30)
• Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) 6 times. (36)
• Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) 6 times. (42)
• Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) 6 times. (48)
• Rnds 9–16: Sc around. (48)

Put in the safety eyes between Rnds 12 and 13, with 7 stitches between them.

• Rnd 17: (Sc 6, dec) 6 times. (42)
• Rnd 18: (Sc 5, dec) 6 times. (36)
• Rnd 19: (Sc 4, dec) 6 times. (30)
• Rnd 20: (Sc 3, dec) 6 times. (24)
• Rnd 21: (Sc 2, dec) 6 times. (18)

Stuff the head firmly.

• Rnd 22: (Sc 1, dec) 6 times. (12)
• Rnd 23: Dec 6 times. (6)

Close as for the body. Checkpoint: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide.

Muzzle

With tan, ch 8.

• Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 6. Work 3 sc in the last ch. Working along the other side of the chain, sc 5, then inc in the last ch. (16)
• Rnd 2: Inc, sc 5, inc 3 times, sc 5, inc 2 times. (22)
• Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc), sc 5, (sc 1, inc) 3 times, sc 5, (sc 1, inc) 2 times. (28)
• Rnd 4: Sc around, then sl st to the next stitch. (28)

Fasten off and leave a long tail. The muzzle is a flat oval, about 2.5 in × 1.5 in (6.4 cm × 3.8 cm).

With dark brown, stitch two short vertical nostrils above the center. With black, backstitch a curved smile below them.

Ears (Make 2)

With pink, ch 6.

• Rnd 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work sc, hdc, dc, dc. Work 6 dc in the last ch. Working along the other side of the chain, work dc, dc, hdc, sc. (14)

Change to cream.

• Rnd 2: Sc 4, inc 6 times around the rounded tip, sc 4. Leave the base unworked. (20)

Fasten off. Each ear is a flat teardrop about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long. Pinch the base in half before sewing.

Horns (Make 2)

With tan:

• Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
• Rnd 2: (Sc 1, inc) 2 times. (6)
• Rnds 3–5: Sc around. (6)

Stuff lightly. Each horn is about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.

Arms (Make 2)

With pink:

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: (Sc 1, inc) 3 times. (9)
• Rnds 3–4: Sc around. (9)

Change to cream.

• Rnds 5–14: Sc around. (9)

Stuff only the hoof. Flatten the top and sc 4 across both layers to close it. Each arm is about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) long.

Feet (Make 2)

With pink:

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc around. (12)
• Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) 6 times. (18)
• Rnds 4–6: Sc around. (18)
• Rnd 7: (Sc 1, dec) 6 times. (12)

Stuff, then flatten the opening and sew it closed. Each foot is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.

Spots and Loop

Large spots (make 8, pink): Work Head Rnds 1–4 (24 sts), then sl st to the next stitch. Each is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.

Small spots (make 5, pink): Work Head Rnds 1–3 (18 sts), then sl st to the next stitch. Each is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.

Loop (cream): Ch 25. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (24) The strip is about 5.25 in (13.3 cm) long.

Assembly

1. Pin the head onto the top dome, centered over the slot and overlapping the dome by about 0.5 in (1.3 cm). Whipstitch all the way around.
2. Sew the muzzle onto the lower half of the face, just below the eyes.
3. Sew the ears to the sides of the head at Rnd 9. Sew the horns just inside them.
4. Fold the loop in half and sew both ends to the top of the head. About 2.25 in (5.7 cm) of loop should show.
5. Sew the arms to the sides of the body 1 in (2.5 cm) below the head. Sew the feet to the bottom corners, on top of the pink rim.
6. Sew on the spots using matching thread or a split strand. Use small stitches through the outer loops so the spots lie flat:
7. 1 small spot on the upper right of the head
8. 1 small spot on each shoulder
9. 8 large and 2 small spots spaced over the body

Border

Border gauge: Work the border at the same gauge as the body, 18 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm). The slot’s side edges are row ends, and there are 5 rows per inch. Working 1 sc in every row end would push 38 stitches into 7.6 in (19.3 cm), which needs only 34 stitches at body gauge. That’s why you skip 4 row ends on each side.

Slot edging, Rnd 1: With cream, join at the bottom right corner of the slot.
– Bottom edge: Sc 1 in each of the 8 unworked stitches. (8)
– Left side: (Sc in each of the next 8 row ends, skip 1 row end) 4 times, then sc in the last 2 row ends. That’s 34 sc over 38 row ends. (34)
– Top edge: Sc 1 in each of the 8 chains. (8)
– Right side: Repeat the left-side sequence. (34)
– Total: 8 + 34 + 8 + 34 = 84. Sl st to the first sc.

Slot edging, Rnd 2: Sl st loosely in each stitch around. (84) This makes the raised rim around the slot.

Bottom opening edging: Join pink to the base of the foundation chain. Sl st in each of the 36 chains. (36)

Why the math works: The short edges use 1 stitch per existing stitch: 8 unworked stitches and 8 chains. Each long side uses 34 sc, which matches the body gauge over 7.6 in (19.3 cm), so the edges lie flat without ruffling or pulling in. After the border, the slot is about 1.25 in × 7.1 in (3.2 cm × 18.0 cm) when relaxed. It opens to about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) when the tube is full.

Final Blocking

1. Lightly mist the body with water. Leave the stuffed head and limbs dry.
2. Slide a rolled towel into the tube so the body lies flat at 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
3. Pin the slot edges straight and gently round the ends of the slot.
4. Pat the spots and ears flat.
5. Let it dry completely, then take out the towel.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• The body is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat and 12.5 in (31.8 cm) long.
• The slot edging has exactly 84 stitches and lies flat.
• The bottom opening has 36 stitches, so bags pull through easily.
• The head is centered over the slot and the eyes are level.
• The loop is sewn on securely enough to hold a full load of bags.
• All ends are woven in and the safety eye backs are locked on.

Troubleshooting

• The slot edge ruffles: Skip one more row end on each side.
• The slot edge puckers: Skip only 3 row ends on each side, and loosen the sl st round.
• The tube twists: Count your stitches every 5 rounds, and keep the slot rows square.
• Bags won’t come out: Stretch the bottom ring while blocking, or start with ch 40 next time.
• The head flops forward: Add a second line of stitches around the back of the neck.

Care

Spot-clean with mild soap, or hand wash in cool water. Reshape it and let it dry flat.

Final Notes

Each stage depends on the one before it. The gauge of 18 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) makes 54 stitches equal 6 in (15.2 cm) laid flat. The 38 slot rows give 7.6 in (19.3 cm), and 34 border stitches per side match that edge exactly. Check these numbers at each stage and the finished cow will hang straight and feed bags smoothly. For the second colorway in the photos, swap pink for the body and dark brown for the spots.

Happy crocheting!