Sunbeam Diamond Lace Valance Crochet Pattern

The Sunbeam Diamond Lace Valance is a light, airy window topper in soft butter-yellow cotton. A lace header with pointed scallops runs along the rod. Below it, eleven chain cords hang down, decorated with small three-petal bobble clusters, five open diamond motifs and full wrapped tassels.

The style is cottage-meets-boho: open enough to let sunlight through but detailed enough to catch the eye. One color keeps it calm and lets the texture stand out.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished valance is 34.25 in (87.0 cm) wide and 23.25 in (59.1 cm) long from the top edge to the tassel tips.

Construction is simple. You crochet the header flat in rows and add a short border to the top and sides. Next you make five diamond motifs and eleven tassels. Then you chain each cord straight down from a header point, joining the diamonds and tassels as you go.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 34.25 in (87.0 cm) wide x 23.25 in (59.1 cm) long
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US crochet terms
  • Yarn weight: DK / light worsted (#3) cotton
  • Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
  • Number of pieces: 17 (1 header, 5 diamonds, 11 tassels), plus 11 cords worked directly onto the header
  • Layout: 11 strands in a row, alternating bobble strands (B) and diamond strands (D): B D B D B D B D B D B
  • Strand spacing: 3 in (7.6 cm) center to center
  • Header before border: 33.25 in (84.5 cm) wide x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) deep at the points
  • Border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm) on the top edge, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on each side
  • Diamond motif: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall x 4 in (10.2 cm) wide, or 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall including the point clusters
  • Strand length: 15.5 in (39.4 cm) of cord plus a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tassel

Materials

Yarn: Use a smooth mercerized or combed cotton in DK / light worsted weight. Cotton holds the points crisply, blocks well and won’t sag in sunlight the way some acrylics do. Choose a light color so the lace stays visible against the window.

  • Butter yellow: 100 g / about 230 m (252 yd), based on a yarn of about 115 m per 50 g

Rough breakdown: header and border about 20 g, five diamonds about 15 g, cords about 10 g, tassels about 22 g. The total above includes a margin of roughly 30 g, so you won’t run short if your tension is looser or you make fuller tassels.

Tools:
– 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Sharp scissors
– A 4 in (10.2 cm) piece of stiff card for the tassels
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking board or foam mats
– Spray bottle or steam iron
– Tape measure
– Clip-style curtain rings (about 13) and a rod

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tr – treble crochet
  • dtr – double treble crochet
  • sk – skip
  • sp(s) – space(s)
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • beg – beginning
  • rnd – round
  • rep – repeat

Special stitches:

3-dc cluster (cl): [Yarn over, insert hook in the stitch named, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops] 3 times, all in the same stitch. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on the hook.

Trefoil (TF): Ch 4. Work a cl in the 4th ch from the hook; this ch is the “base ch”. [Ch 3, cl in the same base ch] 2 times, then sl st in the base ch. You now have three bobble petals around a single point. Any chain or stitch you work next comes out of the base ch. Along a cord, one TF takes up about 0.5 in (1.3 cm).

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 dc and 8 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), using a 4.5 mm hook.
Cord gauge: 10 ch = 2 in (5.1 cm), so 5 ch = 1 in (2.5 cm).

Make one diamond motif first. It is the fastest gauge test, and it tells you whether your tension works for this yarn.

Diamond checkpoints:
– After Rnd 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
– After Rnd 3: 4 in (10.2 cm) tall x 3 in (7.6 cm) wide
– After Rnd 5: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall x 4 in (10.2 cm) wide

Header checkpoints:
– After Row 2: 33.25 in (84.5 cm) wide, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) deep
– After Row 4: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) deep
– After Row 5: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) deep at the points, 2 in (5.1 cm) at the valleys

If your pieces come out too big, go down half a hook size. If they come out too small, go up half a size. If only the cords are off, adjust the chain counts so each strand still measures 15.5 in (39.4 cm). Every strand must match, or the tassels won’t line up.

A pale yellow crocheted diamond-shaped ornament with intricate lacework pattern displayed against a white background.

Header

The header is worked flat in rows. Its 133 stitches make 11 repeats of 12 stitches, plus 1 extra stitch to balance the end. Each repeat ends in one downward point.

Row 1: Ch 134. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (133 sc)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in each st across. Turn. (133 dc)

Row 3 (mesh): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Sk the next st, dc in the next st. Ch 1, sk the next st, dc in the next st. Rep from * 65 more times, working the last dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (67 dc + 66 ch-1 sps = 133 sts)

Row 4 (loop row): Ch 1. Sc in the first dc. Ch 5, sk the next (ch-1 sp, dc, ch-1 sp), sc in the next dc. Rep from * across. Turn. (34 sc, 33 ch-5 loops)

Each loop spans 4 stitches of Row 3, so 132 ÷ 4 = 33 loops. That gives 3 loops per repeat. The sc at positions 1, 4, 7 … 34 are the 12 “boundary” sc between repeats and at the ends.

Row 5 (point row): Ch 1. Sc in the first sc. Then work the following 11 times:
– (sc, hdc, dc, tr) in the next loop
– sk the next sc, then (tr, dtr, ch 3, dtr, tr) in the next loop
– sk the next sc, then (tr, dc, hdc, sc) in the next loop
– sc in the next sc

Fasten off. (144 sts + 11 ch-3 point loops)

Check: 1 + 11 x (4 + 4 + 4 + 1) = 144. The stitches get taller toward the middle of each repeat, which pulls the center ch-3 loop into a point. You now have 11 points, 3 in (7.6 cm) apart. The outer points sit 1.5 in (3.8 cm) in from each end.

Diamond Motif (make 5)

The motif is worked in rounds. Using treble corners at the top and bottom and double crochet corners at the sides makes it longer than it is wide.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 15 dc in the ring. Sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. Pull the ring closed. (16 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in the same st, ch 3, sk the next st. 2 dc in the next st, ch 3, sk the next st. Rep from * 6 more times. Sl st to the top of the beg ch-3. (16 dc in 8 pairs, 8 ch-3 sps)

The eight dc pairs are the flower spokes. Number the spaces 1 to 8 going around: space 1 is the top, 3 is the right, 5 is the bottom and 7 is the left.

Rnd 3: Sl st in the next dc and into sp 1.
– Ch 4 (counts as tr), then work (tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in sp 1 for the top corner.
– Ch 3, 3 dc in sp 2, ch 3.
– (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in sp 3 for the right corner.
– Ch 3, 3 dc in sp 4, ch 3.
– (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in sp 5 for the bottom corner.
– Ch 3, 3 dc in sp 6, ch 3.
– (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in sp 7 for the left corner.
– Ch 3, 3 dc in sp 8, ch 3.
– Sl st to the top of the beg ch-4.

(28 sts: 16 corner sts + 12 side dc; 8 ch-3 side sps; 4 corner sps)

Rnd 4: Sl st in the next tr and into the top corner sp. Ch 1. Then repeat the following 4 times (once per side):
– (sc, ch 3, sc) in the corner sp
– ch 4, sk 2 sts, sc in the next ch-3 sp
– ch 4, sk 1 dc, sc in the next dc
– ch 4, sk 1 dc, sc in the next ch-3 sp
– ch 4, sk 2 sts

Sl st to the first sc. (20 sc, 16 ch-4 loops, 4 ch-3 corner loops)

Rnd 5 (outline): Ch 1, sc in the same sc.
– Top corner: (2 sc, TF, 2 sc) in the corner ch-3 loop, then sc in the next sc.
– Side: 4 sc in each of the next 4 ch-4 loops, with 1 sc in each of the 3 sc between them. That is 19 sc per side.
– Side corners: sc in the corner’s first sc, 3 sc in the ch-3 loop, sc in its second sc.
– Bottom corner: worked the same way as the top corner.
– Work around in this order: top corner, side, right corner, side, bottom corner, side, left corner, side. Sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.

(98 sc + 2 TF)

Count check: 4 sides x 19 = 76. The top and bottom corners have 6 sc each and the side corners have 5 sc each, which adds 22. 76 + 22 = 98.

Tassels (make 11)

  1. Wrap yarn 40 times around the 4 in (10.2 cm) card.
  2. Slide a 10 in (25.4 cm) tie strand under the wraps at the top and knot it tightly. Leave both tails long.
  3. Cut the wraps at the bottom edge.
  4. About 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the top, wrap a separate strand 6 times around the bundle to make the neck. Knot it and bury the ends inside the tassel.
  5. Trim the tassel to 3.5 in (8.9 cm).

Make All Pieces

Everything is one color, butter yellow:

  • Header: 1
  • Diamond motifs: 5
  • Tassels: 11
  • Cords: 11 (6 bobble strands, 5 diamond strands), worked onto the header

Layout (header points numbered left to right):

Point:   1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9   10  11
Strand:  B   D   B   D   B   D   B   D   B   D   B

Joining

Each cord starts at a header point and grows straight down. Treat each point’s ch-3 loop as that strand’s only anchor: one point, one strand, nothing added or skipped.

Bobble strand (points 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11): With the right side facing, join yarn with a sl st in the point’s ch-3 loop. Then work:
– ch 10 (2 in / 5.1 cm), TF
– [ch 12 (2.4 in / 6.1 cm), TF] 4 times
– ch 7 (1.4 in / 3.6 cm)

Length check: 2 + 0.5 + 4 x 2.9 + 1.4 = 15.5 in (39.4 cm), with 5 TF on the strand.

Diamond strand (points 2, 4, 6, 8, 10): Join yarn in the point’s ch-3 loop. Work ch 10, TF, ch 10, then sl st in the base ch of a diamond’s top TF. Fasten off.

Now join yarn with a sl st in the base ch of that diamond’s bottom TF. Work ch 10, TF, ch 10.

Length check: 2 + 0.5 + 2 + 6.5 + 2 + 0.5 + 2 = 15.5 in (39.4 cm).

Tassels: Pull the tassel’s top tie tails through the last ch of the cord. Knot them firmly, then bury them down the center of the tassel.

Tension advice: Chain at an even, relaxed tension. Tight chains shorten a strand, and the tassels then step out of line. Hang the header from a rod while you work so the cords hang naturally as they grow.

Size checkpoint: Before you add tassels, lay the valance flat. All 11 cord ends should line up 15.5 in (39.4 cm) below the points. If any cord is off by more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm), rework its last chain section.

Border

The border goes along the top and both side edges of the header. The pointed bottom edge is left as it is. You only add a border to the header, and the strands hang below it, so no seam stitches come into the border count.

Border gauge: 16 sc and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each sc row adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm).

Border Row 1 (top only): With the right side facing, join yarn at the top-right corner. Work 1 sc in each free loop of the foundation chain. Fasten off. (133 sc)

That is one sc per foundation chain with nothing added, so the width stays at 33.25 in (84.5 cm).

Border Row 2: Join yarn at the bottom of the right side edge. Work in this order:
– Up the side: 7 sc. That is 1 sc in each sc row end (Rows 1, 4, 5) and 2 sc in each dc row end (Rows 2, 3).
– Corner: 3 sc in the first sc of Border Row 1.
– Top: 1 sc in each of the next 131 sc.
– Corner: 3 sc in the last sc.
– Down the other side: 7 sc.

Turn. Count: (133 worked 1 per st + 4 corner extras) + 14 side sc = 151 sc. The breakdown is 7 + 3 + 131 + 3 + 7.

Border Row 3: Ch 1. Sc in each sc, working 3 sc in the center sc of each corner group. Fasten off. Count: 151 worked 1 per st + 4 corner extras = 155 sc. The breakdown is 8 + 3 + 133 + 3 + 8.

Why the math works: The top grows only at the corners, so it stays true to the 133-stitch foundation. The side counts match the row heights (sc rows = 1, dc rows = 2), so the sides lie flat without ruffling or pulling in. Two side rows add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) per side: 33.25 + 1 = 34.25 in (87.0 cm). Three top rows add 0.75 in (1.9 cm): 3.5 + 0.75 = 4.25 in (10.8 cm) at the points.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends. Soak the valance in cool water for 10 minutes.
  2. Press the water out in a towel. Don’t wring it.
  3. Pin the header flat to 34.25 in (87.0 cm) wide x 4.25 in (10.8 cm) deep. Pin each ch-3 point loop down so it forms a sharp tip.
  4. Pin each diamond to 5.5 in (14.0 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm), lining up the top and bottom points with the cord.
  5. Lay the cords straight, 3 in (7.6 cm) apart. Pin each one at 15.5 in (39.4 cm).
  6. Let everything dry completely. Then steam the tassels lightly and trim them level.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Header measures 34.25 in (87.0 cm) wide with 11 even points
  • All 11 strands are attached, alternating B and D
  • Each bobble strand has 5 TF; each diamond strand has 2 TF plus 1 diamond
  • Each diamond is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm) with a TF at the top and bottom
  • All cords are 15.5 in (39.4 cm) long; tassel tops form one straight line
  • Total length is 23.25 in (59.1 cm)
  • All ends are woven in and tassel ties are knotted firmly

Troubleshooting

  • Points look rounded: Check the dtr in Row 5, and pin the points firmly while blocking.
  • Side edges ruffle: Too many sc on the side in Border Row 2. Use exactly 7.
  • Diamond comes out square: Make sure the top and bottom corners use tr and the side corners use dc.
  • Diamond cups: Rnd 4 chains are too short or too tight. Use a looser ch-4.
  • Tassels uneven: Re-measure each cord. Add or remove chains in the last section only.
  • TF petals floppy: Close each cl firmly, and work the sl st into the base ch, not the petal.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press dry in a towel, and lay flat to dry. Re-pin it and steam the tassels if the valance loosens over time.

A person holds a yellow crocheted diamond motif in front of a matching macramé curtain with tassels hanging in a sunlit window.

Final Notes

This is how the measurements build on each other. The header is 133 stitches, 33.25 in (84.5 cm) wide and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) deep, with 11 points spaced 3 in (7.6 cm) apart. The border brings it to 34.25 in (87.0 cm) x 4.25 in (10.8 cm). Each strand adds 15.5 in (39.4 cm) of cord and a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tassel, for 23.25 in (59.1 cm) overall. Check your gauge on the first diamond, keep your chains even, and the valance comes out to size.

Happy crocheting!

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