This curtain is made from simple square daisy motifs stacked into tall, narrow strips. Each square has a deep red center, twelve cream petals, and a sage green lace frame. The strips hang side by side, and light passes through the chain loops and the gaps between them, so the window glows instead of going dark.
The colors are classic cottage garden: red, cream, and soft green. The style is airy and vintage, and the motif is quick to repeat once you have made the first one.
This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout. Each finished strip measures 7 in (17.8 cm) wide by 43 in (109.2 cm) long, plus hanging tabs. Four strips spaced 1 in (2.5 cm) apart cover a window about 31 in (78.7 cm) wide.
The construction is simple. You work each motif in the round: a red center, then cream petals, then a green frame that squares it off. You join seven motifs into a column, add a two-round green border around the strip, and finish the top with three hanging tabs. Then you repeat for four strips.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished strip size: 7 in x 43 in (17.8 cm x 109.2 cm), excluding tabs
- Skill level: Intermediate (easy repeats, careful counting)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 28 square motifs, joined into 4 strips
- Layout: each strip is 1 motif wide x 7 motifs tall
- Motif size: 6 in (15.2 cm) square
- Strip size before border: 6 in x 42 in (15.2 cm x 106.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on each side
Materials
Choose a smooth cotton in DK weight, either mercerized or matte. Cotton holds the petal shape, stands up to sunlight better than most acrylics, and blocks crisply. Look for about 120 m per 50 g. Pick a red that is colorfast so it won’t bleed into the cream petals when you soak the strips.
- Red (centers): 100 g, about 240 m
- Cream (petals): 160 g, about 384 m
- Sage green (frames, joining, border, tabs): 230 g, about 552 m
These amounts include a margin of about 15% to cover gauge differences and a test motif.
Tools:
- 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
- Spray bottle
- Curtain rod or tension rod up to 1 in (2.5 cm) in diameter
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – Petal: work all of this into one ch-7 loop: (sc, hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc). One Petal has 12 stitches plus a ch-2 tip.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete motif before you commit to all 28. Every later measurement depends on it.
Gauge: one motif through Round 8 is 6 in (15.2 cm) square, with 27 sc along each side (including both corner stitches). That works out to 4.5 sc per inch.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 2: the center measures 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.
- After Round 3: the red center measures 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across.
- After Round 5: the petals measure 5.25 in (13.3 cm) from tip to opposite tip.
- After Round 7: the square measures 5.75 in (14.6 cm) side to side.
- After Round 8: the square measures 6 in (15.2 cm) side to side.
If your motif is too big: go down to a 3.75 mm hook. If it is too small: go up to a 4.5 mm hook. Change only the hook, never the stitch counts. Being off by 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per motif adds up to 1.75 in (4.4 cm) over a seven-motif strip.
Daisy Motif
Center (Red)
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 11 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed, leaving a small hole. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st, then 2 dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. (24 dc)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in the same st, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * around. Sl st to the first sc. (36 sc)*
Fasten off red. Check the center against the 2.75 in (7.0 cm) checkpoint.
Petals (Cream)
Round 4: Join cream with a sc in any st. Ch 7, skip 2 sts, sc in the next st; rep from * 10 more times, then ch 7, skip 2 sts, and sl st to the first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-7 loops)*
Check: 36 sts ÷ 3 = 12 loops. Each loop is anchored by one sc and skips two sts.
Round 5: Sl st into the first ch-7 loop. Work 1 Petal in each ch-7 loop around, with a sl st in the sc between loops. Sl st to the first sc to close. (12 Petals; 144 petal sts plus 12 ch-2 tips)
The loop folds as you fill it, which pushes the tr stitches outward and forms a pointed oval. The small gap left in the middle of each loop shows as the petal’s center vein.
Fasten off cream.
Frame (Green)
Round 6: Join green with a sc in the ch-2 tip of any Petal. Ch 5, sc in the next tip, ch 5, sc in the next tip, ch 9, sc in the next tip; rep from * 3 more times. On the last repeat, skip the final sc and sl st to the first sc instead. (12 sc, 8 ch-5 sps, 4 ch-9 corner sps)*
Place a marker in each ch-9 loop. These are your corners.
Round 7: Sl st into the next ch-5 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then 4 dc in the same sp. *Dc in the next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp, dc in the next sc, (2 dc, 3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr, 2 dc) in the ch-9 corner sp, dc in the next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-5 sp; rep from * 3 more times, leaving off the final 5 dc on the last repeat. Sl st to the top of the ch-3.
Each side now has 13 straight sts between its corner fans (1 + 5 + 1 + 5 + 1). Each corner fan has 10 sts around a ch-3 sp. (92 sts: 4 x 13 side sts + 4 x 10 fan sts; plus 4 ch-3 corner sps)
The tall tr stitches fill the gap between the round flower and the square corner, which makes the solid green triangles.
Round 8: Ch 1, then sc in the same st and in each st to the first ch-3 corner sp. *Work 3 sc in the ch-3 sp, then sc in each st to the next corner sp; rep from * around, ending with a sc in each remaining st. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off.
Count per side: each side has 23 sts worked one sc per st (5 fan sts + 13 straight sts + 5 fan sts), plus the 3-sc groups at its corners. In each group, the first and last sc belong to the sides next to them, and the middle sc is the shared corner stitch. So one side is corner + 1 + 23 + 1 + corner = 27 sts, corners included. (Round total: 92 sts worked 1-per-st + 12 corner sc = 104 sc. Check: 4 x 27 − 4 shared corners = 104.)
Make All Pieces
Make 28 motifs in total. By color:
- Red: 28 centers (Rounds 1–3)
- Cream: 28 petal rounds (Rounds 4–5)
- Green: 28 frames (Rounds 6–8)
Work in batches by color: make all 28 centers, then all the petals, then all the frames. This keeps your tension even across the whole curtain. Lay out finished motifs as you go so you can catch any square that is noticeably larger or smaller.
Layout (one strip shown per column, 4 strips total):
Strip 1 Strip 2 Strip 3 Strip 4
[M1] [M1] [M1] [M1]
[M2] [M2] [M2] [M2]
[M3] [M3] [M3] [M3]
[M4] [M4] [M4] [M4]
[M5] [M5] [M5] [M5]
[M6] [M6] [M6] [M6]
[M7] [M7] [M7] [M7]
The strips are not joined to each other. They hang separately, about 1 in (2.5 cm) apart.
Joining
Use a green single crochet join, worked so the ridge sits on the WS.
- Hold two motifs RS together with the edges lined up.
- Join green in the corner sc of both motifs.
- Sc through both layers in each st across, matching st to st, and end in the opposite corner sc. (27 sc)
- Fasten off. Join the next motif to the free bottom edge of the previous one the same way.
Match every stitch: corner to corner, then 25 sts, then corner to corner. If you have a stitch left over at the end, you skipped one. The join adds no stitches to the outer edges because it only works into the two touching sides.
Keep the join at the same tension as Round 8. A tight join puckers and shortens the strip, and a loose join lets it sag between motifs. Turn every motif the same way before joining so the petal tips line up from square to square.
Checkpoint: the joined strip measures 6 in x 42 in (15.2 cm x 106.7 cm) lying flat.
Border
Border gauge: the border works 1 st into each edge st, at the same 27 sts per 6 in (15.2 cm) as Round 8.
Starting counts per side (including corner sts):
- Short sides: 1 motif x 27 = 27 sts
- Long sides: 7 motifs x 27 = 189 sts
Along a long side, every motif contributes all 27 of its own side sts, including its two corner sc. That means the corner sc on each side of a seam are worked separately. Nothing is added at the seams.
Border Round 1 (green): Join green in any st on a long side. Sc in each st around, working 3 sc in each of the 4 outer corner sts. Sl st to the first sc.
- Short sides: 27 worked 1-per-st + 2 added = 29 sts
- Long sides: 189 worked 1-per-st + 2 added = 191 sts
- Total: 428 base sts + 8 added = 436 sts
Border Round 2 (green): Ch 1, then hdc in each st around, working 3 hdc in each center corner st. Sl st to the first hdc.
- Short sides: 29 worked 1-per-st + 2 added = 31 sts
- Long sides: 191 worked 1-per-st + 2 added = 193 sts
- Total: 436 base sts + 8 added = 444 sts
Why the math works: each edge st gets exactly 1 new st, so the border stays the same length as the strip under it. Only the corners gain 2 sts per round, which is what a flat 90-degree turn needs. The base totals count each shared corner once: 2 x 27 + 2 x 189 − 4 = 428.
Hanging Tabs (top short edge): Join green in the top right corner st. Ch 1, sc in the same st and the next st, ch 15, skip 3 sts, sc in the next 9 sts; rep from * once, then ch 15, skip 3 sts, sc in the last 2 sts. (2 + 3 + 9 + 3 + 9 + 3 + 2 = 31 sts; 3 tabs)*
Each tab folds over the rod to make a loop about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) long. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Checkpoint: the strip measures 7 in x 43 in (17.8 cm x 109.2 cm), plus tabs.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the green chains or inside the red center, never across a petal.
- Soak the strip in cool water for 10 minutes. Press the water out in a towel; do not wring.
- Lay the strip on mats RS up. Pin the four corners to 7 in x 43 in (17.8 cm x 109.2 cm).
- Pin each seam line straight across, then pin the middle of each motif’s long edges.
- Shape each petal tip outward with your fingers. Open the ch-5 loops so the lace shows clearly.
- Mist lightly and let the strip dry completely, usually about 24 hours.
- Unpin only when it is fully dry so the strip keeps its length.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every motif has 12 petals, each with a visible ch-2 tip.
- Every motif side has 27 sts, including both corner sc.
- Each strip has 7 motifs, all with petals facing the same direction.
- Joins sit on the WS and match stitch to stitch.
- Border Round 2 has 31 sts on each short side and 193 sts on each long side.
- Each strip has 3 evenly spaced tabs at the top.
- All four strips block to 7 in x 43 in (17.8 cm x 109.2 cm).
- No ends show through the lace when you hold the strip up to the light.
Troubleshooting
The center ruffles. Round 2 or 3 is too loose. Go down a hook size for the red rounds only.
The petals flop or overlap. The ch-7 loops are too long. Chain more firmly, or try ch 6 and recheck the 5.25 in (13.3 cm) checkpoint.
The corners curl up. The tr fans are too tight. Relax your tension on Round 7, or block firmly to the corner pins.
A side has 26 or 28 sts. Recount Round 7: there should be 13 straight sts plus 5 fan sts at each end of the side. Fix it before joining.
The strips hang at different lengths. Re-block them together, pinned to the same 43 in (109.2 cm) mark. Check that each strip has exactly 7 motifs.
Ends show in the light. Re-weave them along the green chain loops, which hide yarn best.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and dry flat, reshaping the petals while damp. Rotate the strips now and then so they fade evenly in strong sun.
Final Notes
The whole curtain depends on one chain of measurements. The red center reaches 2.75 in (7.0 cm). The petals reach 5.25 in (13.3 cm). The frame squares off at 6 in (15.2 cm) with 27 sts per side. Seven motifs make a 42 in (106.7 cm) strip. Two border rounds bring each strip to 7 in x 43 in (17.8 cm x 109.2 cm), and four strips dress the window.
Check your first motif carefully, and the rest will follow.
Happy crocheting!