The Seaside Drift Doorway Curtain is a crochet take on a beaded door curtain. Twelve cream cords hang from a wooden dowel. Each cord carries ribbed peach scallop shells, sage green starfish, little dusty blue fish and round cream balls. The strands part when you walk through and then fall back into place.
The palette is soft and coastal: peach, sage, dusty blue and cream, plus a touch of black for the fish eyes. Each shell has raised ribs that fan out from its base and a scalloped top edge. Each starfish has a neat outlined edge.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished curtain is 36 in (91.4 cm) wide, and the cords hang 78 in (198.1 cm) below the dowel.
You’ll crochet 12 cords, 18 shells, 18 starfish, 12 fish and 48 balls. Then you sew the motifs and balls onto the cords following a spacing chart and loop the cords over the dowel.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 36 in (91.4 cm) wide x 78 in (198.1 cm) hanging length
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK / light worsted cotton (weight 3)
- Hooks: 3.5 mm for the motifs; 5.0 mm for the cords
- Number of pieces: 108 (12 cords, 18 shells, 18 starfish, 12 fish, 48 balls)
- Layout: 12 cords x 8 positions each, with motifs and balls alternating
- Piece sizes:
- Shell: 5 in x 3 in (12.7 x 7.6 cm)
- Starfish: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tip to tip
- Fish: 3 in x 1.25 in (7.6 x 3.2 cm)
- Ball: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across
- Size before border: 36 in x 78 in (91.4 x 198.1 cm)
- Border depth: 0 in. The only finishing is the cord loops at the top and knots at the bottom.
Materials
Use a smooth cotton in DK weight. Cotton holds its shape on a hanging piece and shows the shell ribs clearly.
- Cream: 400 g / 800 m (cords and balls)
- Peach: 150 g / 300 m (shells)
- Sage green: 100 g / 200 m (starfish)
- Dusty blue: 50 g / 100 m (fish)
- Black: 5 m (eyes)
All quantities include about a 15% margin for swatches and sewing tails.
Tools:
- 3.5 mm and 5.0 mm hooks
- Wooden dowel, 40 in (101.6 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, plus two brackets
- Fiberfill
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers
- Pins and a blocking mat
- Measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- fpdc – front post double crochet
- bpdc – back post double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- dec – sc2tog
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Special stitch – back-bump slip stitch: Insert the hook under the bump on the back of a chain, yarn over, and pull through the bump and the loop on your hook. This makes a firm, rounded cord.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Motif gauge (3.5 mm hook): 20 sc x 22 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), and 18 dc x 9 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Cord gauge (5.0 mm hook, yarn held double): 4 sl st = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make and block one test shell and one test starfish first. Check these measurements as you go:
- Shell, after Row 3: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) from the ring to the edge
- Shell, after Row 6: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) from the ring to the edge
- Starfish center, after Rnd 3: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- Fish body, after Rnd 3: 2.5 in x 1.25 in (6.4 x 3.2 cm)
- Ball: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across
If your pieces come out too big, go down 0.5 mm in hook size. If they’re too small, go up 0.5 mm. The curtain’s overall dimensions are set by the cords and dowel, so small differences in motif size only change how the curtain looks, not its size.

Shell (Make 18, Peach)
The shell is worked in turned rows from a magic ring. It has 8 panels separated by 7 raised ribs. Work the ribs as fpdc on RS rows and bpdc on WS rows so they always stand out on the front. The ch 2 at the start of a row doesn’t count as a stitch.
Row 1 (RS): MR, ch 2, 8 dc in ring. Pull tight and turn. (8 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, 2 dc in each of the next 7 sts, dc in the last st. Turn. (15 sts)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, 2 dc in the first st, *fpdc around the next st, 2 dc in the next st; repeat from * 6 more times. Turn. (23 sts: 8 panels of 2 + 7 ribs)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 2, dc in the first st, 2 dc in the next st, *bpdc around the next st, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st; repeat from * 6 more times. Turn. (31 sts: 8 panels of 3 + 7 ribs)
Row 5 (RS): Ch 2, dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, *fpdc around the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st; repeat from * 6 more times. Turn. (39 sts: 8 panels of 4 + 7 ribs)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 2, dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st, *bpdc around the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st; repeat from * 6 more times. Turn. (47 sts: 8 panels of 5 + 7 ribs)
Row 7 (RS, scallop trim): Ch 1.
- Make a scallop over the next 5 sts: sc in the next st, hdc in the next st, 3 dc in the next st, hdc in the next st, sc in the next st.
- Sl st in the top of the next rib.
- Repeat Steps 1 and 2 six more times.
- Make one final scallop.
Fasten off. (63 sts: 47 worked 1 per stitch + 16 added by the 3-dc centers)
Each scallop sits above one panel, and each sl st makes a dip at the top of a rib. Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail at the ring for sewing.
Starfish (Make 18, Sage Green)
Rnd 1: MR, ch 1, 10 sc in ring, sl st to the first sc. (10)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (20)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st; repeat from * 4 more times, join. (25)
Arm (worked in rows over 5 sts):
Row 1: Sc in the next 5 sts. Turn. (5)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (5)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (4)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (4)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (3)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (3)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the last st. Turn. (2)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc across. Turn. (2)
Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog. Fasten off. (1)
Join the yarn in the next unworked center stitch and repeat Rows 1–9. You’ll make 5 arms in total, which uses all 25 center stitches.
Edging Rnd: Join the yarn at a valley between two arms. Then work this sequence 5 times, once for each arm:
- Sc2tog, joining the Row 1 end of one arm to the Row 1 end of the next arm.
- Work 7 sc up the side of the arm (one in each row end, Rows 2–8).
- Work 3 sc in the Row 9 tip.
- Work 7 sc down the other side (Rows 8–2).
Join. (90 sts: 18 per arm)
This round outlines the edge and sharpens the valleys between the arms. Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Fish (Make 12, Dusty Blue)
Rnd 1: Ch 8. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 5 ch, 3 sc in the last ch. Working along the other side of the chain, sc in the next 5 ch, 2 sc in the last ch, join. (16)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next 5, 2 sc in each of the next 3, sc in the next 5, 2 sc in each of the next 2, join. (22)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) once, sc in the next 5, (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) 3 times, sc in the next 5, (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next st) twice, join. Fasten off. (28)
Tail: The “3 times” repeat in Rnd 3 made a group of 9 sts at one end of the body. Skip the first 2 of those and join the yarn in the 3rd.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the same st and the next 4 sts. Turn. (5)
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next 3, 2 sc in the last st. Turn. (7)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, (hdc, dc) in the next st, sl st in the next 3 sts, (dc, hdc) in the next st, sc in the last st. Fasten off. (9)
The 3 sl sts make the V-notch that forks the tail. With black yarn, embroider a French knot eye on each side, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) from the head tip.
Ball (Make 48, Cream)
Work in a continuous spiral without joining.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc, inc around. (18)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc around. (24)
Rnds 5–7: Sc in each st around. (24)
Rnd 8: Sc 2, dec around. (18)
Rnd 9: Sc, dec around. Stuff firmly. (12)
Rnd 10: Dec around. (6)
Close the opening and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail.
Cords (Make 12, Cream)
Use the 5.0 mm hook with two strands of cream held together.
Row 1: Ch 337.
Row 2: Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Fasten off. (336 sl sts)
At 4 sts per inch, each cord is 84 in (213.4 cm) long.
Make All Pieces
- Peach: 18 shells
- Sage: 18 starfish
- Blue: 12 fish
- Cream: 48 balls and 12 cords
In the grid below, columns are cords 1–12 from left to right and rows are positions 1–8 from top to bottom. S = shell, T = starfish, F = fish, o = ball.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
P1 S o T o F o S o T o F o
P2 o T o S o T o F o S o T
P3 F o S o T o S o F o T o
P4 o S o T o S o T o F o S
P5 T o F o S o T o S o F o
P6 o T o S o F o S o T o T
P7 S o T o F o T o S o F o
P8 o S o F o T o S o T o S
The grid totals are 18 S, 18 T, 12 F and 48 o. Each cord holds 4 motifs and 4 balls. Odd-numbered cords start with a motif and even-numbered cords start with a ball, which creates the staggered checkerboard effect.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch each piece onto the front of its cord using matching yarn.
Placement: Measure each position from the point where the cord will leave the dowel. Item centers sit every 9 in (22.9 cm), at:
- 5 in (12.7 cm)
- 14 in (35.6 cm)
- 23 in (58.4 cm)
- 32 in (81.3 cm)
- 41 in (104.1 cm)
- 50 in (127.0 cm)
- 59 in (149.9 cm)
- 68 in (172.7 cm)
Mark every position on the cord before you sew. Because the top 4 in (10.2 cm) of each cord becomes the dowel loop, start measuring 4 in down from the top end of the cord.
How to attach each piece:
- Shells: Run the cord behind the center rib, from the ring up to the scallop dip. Take one stitch per row through the cord and the rib.
- Starfish: Sew through the center, then catch the cord at the base of the top arm.
- Fish: Sew along the midline of Rnd 2, through 5 sts.
- Balls: Pass the needle through the center of the ball and wrap once around the cord at the top and at the bottom.
Tension: Keep your stitches firm but flat. Pulling too tight puckers the cord and shortens it.
Size checkpoint: Hang each finished cord for 24 hours, then measure it. It should still be 84 in (213.4 cm) long. If it has stretched, unravel the bottom end to 84 in and fasten off again.
Border (Header and Strand Ends)
There’s no crocheted border on this curtain. Instead, the cord ends finish the top and bottom, and the cord gauge controls the lengths.
Top header:
- Fold the top 4 in (10.2 cm) of each cord over the dowel and whipstitch the end to the cord just below the dowel.
- Space the 12 loops 3 in (7.6 cm) apart, with a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) margin at each end. That gives 1.5 + (11 x 3) + 1.5 = 36 in (91.4 cm) of width.
- Check that 2 in (5.1 cm) of dowel is left free at each end for the brackets: 2 + 36 + 2 = 40 in (101.6 cm).
Bottom ends: Tie an overhand knot at the end of each cord. Each knot uses 2 in (5.1 cm).
Why the math works: 336 sl sts ÷ 4 per inch = 84 in. Subtract 4 in for the loop and 2 in for the knot, and you get 78 in (198.1 cm) of hanging length. That puts all 12 knots on one level line, 10 in (25.4 cm) below the last item.
Final Blocking
- Wet-block the motifs before you sew them on. Press out the excess water in a towel.
- Pin each shell to 5 in x 3 in (12.7 x 7.6 cm), with a pin at every scallop point.
- Pin each starfish to 4.5 in (11.4 cm), with a pin at every tip and every valley.
- Pin each fish to 3 in x 1.25 in (7.6 x 3.2 cm), spreading the two tail lobes apart.
- Let everything dry for 24 hours.
- Roll the balls between your palms to smooth them. Don’t pin them.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 12 cords, each hanging 78 in (198.1 cm) from the dowel to the knot
- Loops spaced 3 in (7.6 cm) apart, with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) margins at the ends
- Each shell has 8 scallops and 7 ribs raised on the front
- Each starfish has a 90-st edging with crisp tips
- All fish face the same direction and have an eye on both sides
- Item centers line up across the cords at all 8 heights
- All ends are woven in
Troubleshooting
- The shell ruffles: Your tension on the post stitches is too loose. Go down a hook size, or block the shell flatter.
- The ribs sink to the back: Make sure you work fpdc on RS rows and bpdc on WS rows.
- The starfish arms curl: Check that you worked 3 sc in each tip, then pin every tip when blocking.
- The cords twist: Hang each cord with a light weight on the end overnight before you attach anything.
- The balls are lumpy: Add a little more fiberfill.
Care
Spot clean, or hand wash in cool water and dry the curtain flat. Rehang it while the cords are slightly damp so they dry straight.

Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. Motif gauge (20 sc and 18 dc per 4 in) sets the size of each piece. Cord gauge (4 sts per inch) turns 336 sl sts into an 84 in cord. Taking off 4 in for the loop and 2 in for the knot leaves 78 in (198.1 cm) of hanging length. Twelve cords spaced 3 in apart with 1.5 in margins give a width of 36 in (91.4 cm).
Happy crocheting!