Two small ginkgo leaves, one sage green and one soft cream, hang one below the other from a slim cord. Each leaf is a lacy fan. Tall open spokes spread out from a narrow base, a solid band holds them steady, and a row of rounded scallops finishes the outer edge. The result is light and airy and looks calm swinging from a rearview mirror.
The style is natural and minimal. The green leaf sits on top and carries the hanging cord. The cream leaf hangs from its own stem, which runs up behind the green leaf so the two fans look like they are drifting down together.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished leaf measures 4 in (10.2 cm) wide and 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall. The whole charm hangs about 11 in (27.9 cm) from the top of the loop to the bottom scallop.
Construction is simple. Each leaf is worked flat in five turned rows into a small ring, and then you add a slip-stitch stem. The green stem continues into a hanging loop. Then you sew the top of the cream stem to the back of the green leaf’s base, finish with a tied knot, and block.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (each leaf): 4 in (10.2 cm) wide x 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall, not counting the stem
- Total hanging length: about 11 in (27.9 cm)
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate (working into a ring, tall stitches, shell scallops)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Super fine #1 (fingering-weight cotton or size 3 crochet thread)
- Hook: 2.25 mm (US B-1)
- Number of pieces: 2 leaves (1 green, 1 cream)
- Layout: One column of two leaves: green on top, cream below
- Piece size: 4 in (10.2 cm) x 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
- Size before border: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) wide x 1.8 in (4.6 cm) tall after Row 4
- Border depth: 0.45 in (1.1 cm) scalloped edge (Row 5)
Materials
Choose a smooth, tightly plied mercerized cotton. It shows the spokes clearly, holds a crisp scallop, and does not fuzz up from sun or handling in a car. Avoid acrylic. It relaxes in heat and the fan will droop.
Yarn:
– Sage green: 6 g / about 24 m (26 yd), for one leaf, stem and hanging loop
– Cream: 4 g / about 16 m (17 yd), for one leaf and stem
These quantities include about a 30% margin for a test leaf, tails and swatching.
Tools:
– 2.25 mm (US B-1) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle with a small eye
– Scissors
– Rustproof pins
– Foam blocking mat or folded towel
– Spray bottle with water
– Optional: fabric stiffener or a mix of white glue and water (1:1)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet (yarn over twice)
- dtr – double treble crochet (yarn over three times)
- sk – skip
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- beg – beginning
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- [ ] – repeat the bracketed steps the stated number of times
Special stitch – Scallop: Work 5 dc into the same stitch. Flanked by skipped stitches and sc, it forms one rounded shell.
Special stitch – Back-bump slip stitch cord: Slip stitch into the back bump (the small horizontal bar on the back) of each chain. This makes a firm, round cord that won’t stretch out.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge is not critical for use, but it does control how the two leaves line up. Make one cream leaf first and measure it before going on.
- Fan gauge: Rows 1–3 measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the center of the ring to the tip of a dtr spoke.
- Stem gauge: 10 back-bump sl sts = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Checkpoints (measure flat and gently opened; ring center to edge):
- After Row 1: about 0.45 in (1.1 cm)
- After Row 3: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall; about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across the spoke tips
- After Row 4: 1.8 in (4.6 cm) tall; 3.25 in (8.3 cm) across
- After Row 5: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall; 4 in (10.2 cm) across
If your leaf is too big: Go down to a 2.0 mm hook, or check that your tall stitches aren’t loose at the top. Pull each yarn-over through snugly.
If your leaf is too small: Go up to a 2.5 mm hook. Small leaves are often caused by tight chain spaces, so loosen your chains a little in Rows 2–3.
Leaf Pattern (Make 1 in Each Color)
Work in turned rows. The fan opens on one side of the ring only, which creates the ginkgo’s narrow base.
Foundation: Ch 4, sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 8 dc in ring. Turn.
(9 dc)
The 9 dc should cover only about half of the ring. Don’t push them all the way around.
Row 2 (conversion row): Ch 6 (counts as tr + ch 2), sk first dc, tr in next dc, [ch 2, tr in next dc] 6 times, ch 2, tr in top of beg ch-3. Turn.
(9 tr worked 1 per existing st + 16 ch added = 25 sts; 9 tr, 8 ch-2 sps)
Row 3 (spoke row): Ch 8 (counts as dtr + ch 3), dtr in next tr, [ch 3, dtr in next tr] 6 times, ch 3, dtr in 4th ch of beg ch-6. Turn.
(9 dtr worked 1 per existing tr + 24 ch added = 33 sts; 9 dtr, 8 ch-3 sps)
These long dtr posts are the open spokes. Stop and check: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) from the ring center to the spoke tips.
Row 4 (solid band): Ch 3 (counts as dc), [3 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dtr] 7 times, 3 dc in last ch-3 sp, dc in 5th ch of beg ch-8. Turn.
(9 dc worked 1 per existing dtr + 24 dc worked into the 8 sps = 33 dc)
The center stitch is dc #17, which sits right on top of the center spoke (dtr #5). You will use it for joining, so you may want to mark it. Checkpoint: 1.8 in (4.6 cm) tall.
Row 5 (scalloped edge): See the Border section below.
Make All Pieces
- Green: 1 leaf (Rows 1–5), plus a 30-st stem and a 60-ch hanging loop
- Cream: 1 leaf (Rows 1–5), plus a 28-st stem
Layout (top to bottom):
( hanging loop, 60 ch )
|
knot accent
|
green stem, 30 sl st
|
[ GREEN LEAF ]
\ scallops /
| <- cream stem passes behind green
[ CREAM LEAF ]
\ scallops /
Stems
Cream stem: With the RS facing, join cream with a sl st into the ring at the base point, right between the first and last dc of Row 1. Ch 29. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch back to the ring.
(28 sl sts = 2.8 in / 7.1 cm)
Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail for sewing.
Green stem and loop: Join green at the base point the same way. Ch 31. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch back to the ring.
(30 sl sts = 3 in / 7.6 cm)
Don’t fasten off. Turn and sl st back up along the stem to the top end, working under one strand of each sl st.
Hanging loop: From the top of the stem, ch 60 (6 in / 15.2 cm). Sl st into the last sl st at the top of the stem to close the loop. Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail.
Joining
The cream leaf hangs from the green leaf by its own stem. The stem is sewn to the back of the green leaf and stays hidden behind it.
- Lay the green leaf WS up, base point at the top. Lay the cream stem over it, with the top of the cream stem at the green ring.
- Stitch-to-stitch logic: Line the top 3 sl sts of the cream stem up with the 3 center dc of green Row 1 (dc #4, #5 and #6). Use the cream tail to whipstitch each stem sl st to its matching dc: 3 stitches, 3 passes.
- Run the cream stem straight down behind the center spoke (green dtr #5). Tack it with one pass through green Row 4 dc #17. This stops the cream leaf from twisting.
- Tension: Pull each pass just until the threads touch. If you pull harder, the green fan will pucker at the center.
- Weave the cream tail up the inside of the stem and trim.
Size checkpoint: Hang the charm by the loop. The cream leaf’s base point should sit about 0.55 in (1.4 cm) below the green scallops, because a 2.8 in (7.1 cm) stem minus 2.25 in (5.7 cm) of green leaf leaves 0.55 in (1.4 cm). If the cream leaf touches the green scallops, re-tack the stem 2 sts lower on the green leaf.
Knot accent: Take the 8 in (20.3 cm) green tail and wrap it once around the cord about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the loop. Tie a firm overhand knot and leave a tiny 0.25 in (0.6 cm) loop standing out. Bury the tail inside the stem.
Border
The border is Row 5, the scalloped edge, worked across the curved top of the fan on each leaf. The two straight sides of each leaf are made up of turning chains and stitch posts and don’t get an edging. That keeps the fan’s base crisp and narrow.
Border gauge: 8 scallops span about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) along the curved edge before blocking, or 1 scallop for every 4 sts of Row 4.
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, [sk next dc, 5 dc in next dc, sk next dc, sc in next dc] 8 times, working the last sc in the top of beg ch-3. Fasten off.
(8 scallops + 9 sc; 40 dc + 9 sc = 49 sts)
Counts by edge:
– Curved edge: 33 sts from Row 4, used as 1 starting sc plus 8 repeats of 4 sts
– Left straight side: no border stitches (0)
– Right straight side: no border stitches (0)
Why the math works: Row 4 has 33 dc. The first sc uses 1 stitch, leaving 32. Each scallop repeat uses exactly 4 stitches (skip, shell, skip, sc), so 32 ÷ 4 = 8 repeats with nothing left over. The last sc of repeat 8 falls right on the turning chain, so both ends of the edge are anchored. The 5th scallop’s shell sits on dc #19, so with 8 scallops the center of the fan (dc #17, the sc between scallops 4 and 5) gets a small dip. That’s the natural notch of a ginkgo leaf.
Weave in the fan’s tails along the straight sides, working into the stitch posts.
Final Blocking
- Spray both leaves until they’re evenly damp, but not dripping.
- Pin the green leaf flat, RS up. Pin the base point first.
- Open the fan to about 125 degrees. The tips of scallops 1 and 8 should be 4 in (10.2 cm) apart.
- Pin each of the 9 spokes in a straight line from the base. Put one pin at the top of each spoke where it meets Row 4.
- Pin the 8 scallops into round shells, with one pin at the center dc of each. Make sure the center dip lines up with the center spoke.
- Check that the height from the base point to the center scallop tip is 2.25 in (5.7 cm).
- Repeat steps 2–6 for the cream leaf. Let the stems lie straight.
- For a crisper charm, brush on a thin coat of stiffener, blot off the extra, and let the leaves dry fully (6–12 hours) before you unpin them.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each leaf has 9 spokes and 8 ch-3 spaces in Row 3
- [ ] Row 4 counts 33 dc on each leaf
- [ ] Each leaf has 8 even scallops and 9 sc anchors
- [ ] Each leaf measures 4 in (10.2 cm) x 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
- [ ] Green stem is 3 in (7.6 cm); cream stem is 2.8 in (7.1 cm)
- [ ] Hanging loop is 6 in (15.2 cm) around and closed firmly
- [ ] Cream stem is hidden behind the green center spoke
- [ ] There is a gap of about 0.55 in (1.4 cm) between the leaves
- [ ] Knot accent is tight and tails are buried
- [ ] Charm hangs straight without twisting
Troubleshooting
The fan curls into a cone: Row 1 was spread too far around the ring. Keep the 9 dc to one half of the ring and block it flat.
The fan ruffles: The Row 4 dc are too loose, or the ch-3 spaces are too long. Work Row 4 more snugly or go down one hook size.
Spokes lean or bunch together: The chain spaces are uneven. Count the chains exactly in Rows 2 and 3, then pin the spokes straight when you block.
Scallops come out uneven: Make sure you skip exactly 1 dc on each side of every shell. Count 33 sts in Row 4 again before you start Row 5.
The cream leaf twists: Add the tack at green dc #17 if you skipped it, or add a second tack 2 sts below it.
The cord stretches: Work the sl sts into the back bumps, not the front loops, and do the second pass along the green stem.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and re-pin to shape to dry. If you used stiffener, reapply it lightly after washing.
Final Notes
The measurement chain starts small. Rows 1–3 reach 1.5 in (3.8 cm), Row 4 brings the leaf to 1.8 in (4.6 cm) and 3.25 in (8.3 cm) across, and the scalloped Row 5 finishes each leaf at 2.25 in (5.7 cm) x 4 in (10.2 cm). The 33 stitches of Row 4 divide into 1 + 8 x 4 for 8 clean scallops. A 2.8 in (7.1 cm) cream stem behind a 2.25 in (5.7 cm) green leaf leaves a gap of about 0.55 in (1.4 cm). With the 3 in (7.6 cm) green stem and a loop that hangs 3 in (7.6 cm), the charm hangs about 11 in (27.9 cm). Check each number in order and the two leaves will line up.
Happy crocheting!