This organizer hangs from the headrest posts on the back of a car seat. It has a sage green mesh panel covered in raised, chain-textured lines that wave and cross to form pointed ovals. A natural linen lining sits behind the lace so the lattice stands out, and an oatmeal border frames every edge.
The palette is calm: sage for the lace and straps, oatmeal for the borders, and undyed linen showing through the mesh. The style is modern farmhouse, practical enough for tissues, a phone or a small pouch.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished organizer measures 13.2 in wide × 17.2 in tall (33.5 cm × 43.7 cm), not counting the straps.
Construction is simple. You crochet a filet mesh back panel and a shorter matching pocket panel, then add the wavy lines in surface slip stitch. Each panel gets a 3-round oatmeal border with rounded bottom corners. You sew on the linen linings, whipstitch the pocket to the back panel and attach two sage strap loops.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 13.2 in × 17.2 in (33.5 cm × 43.7 cm), straps not included
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) cotton
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4), plus 4.0 mm (G-6) for the surface lines
- Number of pieces: 4 crocheted pieces (back panel, pocket panel, 2 straps) and 2 fabric linings
- Layout: the pocket lies on the lower part of the back panel, with bottom edges and sides lined up
- Back panel before border: 12 in × 16 in (30.5 cm × 40.6 cm)
- Pocket panel before border: 12 in × 11.2 in (30.5 cm × 28.4 cm)
- Border depth: 0.6 in (1.5 cm), 3 rounds
- Strap size: 1.4 in × 9 in (3.6 cm × 22.9 cm)
Materials
Pick a smooth, firm DK cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps the raised lines crisp and stands up to sun and handling in a car. Avoid fuzzy yarns, which blur the lattice.
- Sage green (A): 200 g, about 440 m (DK cotton, about 110 m per 50 g)
- Oatmeal (B): 50 g, about 110 m
Both amounts include a safety margin of about 25%.
Tools and notions:
- 3.5 mm (E-4) and 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hooks
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Natural linen or linen-look fabric, 2 pieces: 13 in × 17 in (33.0 cm × 43.2 cm) and 13 in × 12.2 in (33.0 cm × 31.0 cm)
- Sewing needle, matching thread, pins and an iron
- Blocking mat, rust-proof pins and a spray bottle
- Measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – Surface slip stitch (surf sl st): Hold the working yarn behind the fabric. Insert the hook from front to back through the mesh space you need, yarn over, and pull a loop through the space and the loop on your hook. Each surface line here is worked with 2 strands of A held together, and you make 2 surf sl sts in every mesh space. That produces a thick, braided, chain-textured ridge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Mesh gauge (3.5 mm hook): 10 mesh spaces and 10 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each mesh row is 0.4 in (1.0 cm) tall.
Sc gauge (3.5 mm hook): 20 sts and 20 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make the pocket panel first. It works as your gauge test, and it is smaller than the back.
Checkpoints:
- After Row 3 of either panel: the width is 12 in (30.5 cm).
- Pocket after Row 14: 5.6 in (14.2 cm) tall.
- Back after Row 20: 8 in (20.3 cm) tall.
- One 12-row line repeat: 4.8 in (12.2 cm) tall and 4 in (10.2 cm) wide.
- Strap after Row 25: 5 in (12.7 cm) long.
If your panel is too big, go down half a hook size. If it is too small, go up half a size. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the border and the pocket join depend on them.
Back Panel (make 1)
Use A and the 3.5 mm hook.
Ch 63.
Row 1 (RS, solid): Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (61 dc; the skipped ch-3 counts as the first dc)
Row 2 (solid): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, ending in top of turning ch. Turn. (61 dc)
Row 3 (first mesh row): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 28 more times. Turn. (31 dc + 30 ch-1 sps = 61 sts; 30 mesh)
Rows 4–38 (mesh): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk first ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc; repeat from * across, working the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-4. Turn. (61 sts; 30 mesh per row)
That gives 36 mesh rows, which is exactly 3 line repeats of 12 rows.
Row 39 (solid): Ch 3, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc; repeat from * across. Turn. (1 + 30 × 2 = 61 dc)
Row 40 (solid): Ch 3, dc in each st across. Fasten off. (61 dc)
The back panel measures 12 in × 16 in (30.5 cm × 40.6 cm), from 40 rows × 0.4 in.
Pocket Panel (make 1)
Work the same way as the back panel, with fewer mesh rows:
- Rows 1–2: solid. (61 dc each)
- Rows 3–26: mesh. (61 sts, 30 mesh each; 24 mesh rows = 2 line repeats)
- Rows 27–28: solid, worked like Rows 39–40 of the back. (61 dc each)
Fasten off. The pocket measures 12 in × 11.2 in (30.5 cm × 28.4 cm), from 28 rows × 0.4 in.
Surface Ogee Lines (both panels)
Lightly steam or wet-block both panels to size first, so the mesh is square.
Number the mesh spaces 1 to 30 from right to left as you look at the RS, with Row 1 at the bottom. Mesh Row 3 is repeat row 1.
Each panel gets 6 lines, set up as 3 crossing pairs: A1/B1, A2/B2 and A3/B3. Every line runs from the bottom mesh row to the top mesh row.
Line positions in one 12-row repeat (pair 1):
| Repeat row | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Line A1 space | 1 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 2 |
| Line B1 space | 10 | 10 | 9 | 8 | 7 | 6 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 |
- For pair 2, add 10 to every space number (A2 starts at 11, B2 at 20).
- For pair 3, add 20 (A3 starts at 21, B3 at 30).
- Repeat the 12-row sequence 3 times on the back and 2 times on the pocket.
To work a line:
- With the 4.0 mm hook and 2 strands of A, make a slip knot behind the fabric.
- Draw the loop up through the starting space in the first mesh row and work 2 surf sl sts in that space.
- Move to the listed space in the next row up and work 2 surf sl sts there.
- Continue to the top mesh row, then pull the yarn to the WS and fasten off.
Stitch count per line: back panel 36 spaces × 2 = 72 surf sl sts; pocket 24 × 2 = 48 surf sl sts.
Why this makes the ogee lattice:
- Between repeat rows 6 and 7, and again between rows 8 and 9, lines A and B swap spaces. Those are the crossings at each narrow waist.
- At repeat rows 1–2, B1 (space 10) sits right beside A2 (space 11), and B2 and A3 kiss the same way. Neighboring pairs touch there and enclose a second row of pointed ovals.
- The repeated positions at rows 1–2 and 7–8 soften the points into curves.
Work all the A lines first. When you work the B lines, carry them over the A lines at the crossings.
Keep these stitches loose. Each line should lie flat without puckering the mesh.
Make All Pieces
- Color A: 1 back panel, 1 pocket panel, 2 straps and 12 surface lines (6 per panel)
- Color B: borders on both panels, plus the joining seam
- Linen: 2 lining pieces
Layout (RS view):
[strap] [strap]
+---------------------------+
| back panel, upper 4.8 in |
+---------------------------+
| |
| pocket panel 12.4 in |
| (joined sides + bottom) |
\_________________________/
Straps (make 2)
Use A and the 3.5 mm hook.
Ch 8.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (7 sc)
Rows 2–45: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (7 sc)
Fasten off. Each strap measures 1.4 in × 9 in (3.6 cm × 22.9 cm).
Border (both panels)
Use B and the 3.5 mm hook. The border gauge is 5 sc and 5 rounds per inch, so 3 rounds = 0.6 in (1.5 cm).
Side counts below are the straight stitches between the corner groups. The corner groups are counted separately.
Rnd 1: With RS facing, join B in the last st of the top row.
- 3 sc in that st (top corner).
- Sc in next 59 sts.
- 3 sc in last st (top corner).
- Down the side, work 2 sc in each row end: 80 sc on the back, 56 sc on the pocket.
- 3 sc in first foundation ch (bottom corner), sc in next 59 ch, 3 sc in last ch (bottom corner).
- Work 2 sc in each row end up the second side.
- Sl st to first sc.
Back: 59 + 59 + 80 + 80 + (4 × 3) = 290 sts. Pocket: 59 + 59 + 56 + 56 + 12 = 242 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work sc in each st, except:
- Top corners: 3 sc in each center corner st.
- Bottom corners: 2 sc in each of the 3 corner sts (6 sts per bottom corner).
Sl st to first sc.
Back: 290 + 10 extra = 300 sts (top 61, sides 81 each, bottom 59, top corners 3 each, bottom curves 6 each). Pocket: 242 + 10 = 252 sts (top 61, sides 57 each, bottom 59, top corners 3 each, bottom curves 6 each).
Rnd 3: Ch 1. Work sc in each st, except:
- Top corners: 3 sc in each center corner st.
- Bottom curves: over the 6 curve sts, work (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, for 9 sts.
Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Back: 300 + 10 = 310 sts (top 63, sides 82 each, bottom 59, top corners 3 each, bottom curves 9 each). Pocket: 252 + 10 = 262 sts (top 63, sides 58 each, bottom 59, top corners 3 each, bottom curves 9 each).
Why the math works:
- 61 sts over 12 in is 5.08 sc per inch, which is on gauge.
- Each dc row is 0.4 in tall, and 2 sc at 5 per inch also cover 0.4 in.
- The top corners add 2 sts per round, so they stay square.
- The bottom corners spread their increases over 3 and then 6 sts, so they round out instead of forming a point.
The bordered back is 13.2 in × 17.2 in (33.5 cm × 43.7 cm). The bordered pocket is 13.2 in × 12.4 in (33.5 cm × 31.5 cm).
Lining
Press a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) hem to the WS on all edges of each linen piece, and round the two bottom corners to match the crochet. The back lining becomes 12 in × 16 in (30.5 cm × 40.6 cm), and the pocket lining becomes 12 in × 11.2 in (30.5 cm × 28.4 cm).
Pin each lining to the WS of its panel, just inside border Rnd 1. Hand-sew it with small stitches through the base of Rnd 1, so the thread hides in the border.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with B through the back loops of border Rnd 3 on both pieces, stitch to stitch.
- Lay the pocket on the back panel, both RS up, with the bottom edges aligned.
- On the back panel, count 24 straight side sts down from the right top corner group. Place a marker in the 25th st.
- Start joining at the marker, together with the pocket’s first straight side st below its top corner group.
- Join 58 side sts, then 9 curve sts, 59 bottom sts, 9 curve sts and 58 side sts. That is 193 pairs of sts, matched one to one.
Why it lines up: The back has 82 straight sts per side, so 82 − 58 = 24 sts stay free above the pocket. At 5 sts per inch, 24 sts is 4.8 in (12.2 cm), which matches 17.2 in − 12.4 in.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug but not tight, so the seam lies flat and the edge doesn’t curl.
Size checkpoint: The joined piece should still be 13.2 in (33.5 cm) wide, with the pocket opening 4.8 in (12.2 cm) below the top edge.
Straps: Fold each strap in half to make a loop. Place the strap centers 2.9 in (7.4 cm) in from each side edge, which puts them 7.4 in (18.8 cm) apart, center to center. Check this spacing against your headrest posts before you sew.
Overlap both ends of each strap 1.5 in (3.8 cm) onto the WS of the back panel’s top edge. Sew them on firmly with A, through the lining, the solid rows and the border.
Final Blocking
- Mist the joined organizer until it is evenly damp.
- Pin it flat to 13.2 in × 17.2 in (33.5 cm × 43.7 cm), keeping the pocket’s top edge straight.
- Shape the bottom corners into smooth curves.
- Nudge the surface lines into even waves with your fingers.
- Let it dry completely before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every mesh row has 30 spaces, and every solid row has 61 dc.
- The back has 40 rows and the pocket has 28 rows.
- Each panel has 6 surface lines, with crossings at every waist.
- Border Rnd 3 counts: back 310, pocket 262.
- 193 stitch pairs are joined, with 24 back side sts free on each side.
- The lining is hidden and flat, and the straps are evenly spaced and secure.
Troubleshooting
- Mesh slants: The last dc is going into the wrong st. Always finish in the 3rd ch of the turning ch.
- Surface lines pucker: Work them looser, or switch to a 4.5 mm hook.
- Bottom corners come out pointed: Make sure Rnds 2–3 spread the increases across the curve sts.
- Pocket sides don’t line up: Recount the 24 free sts and confirm both pocket sides have 58.
- Straps don’t fit the headrest posts: Unpick and reposition them before final blocking.
Care
Hand wash cool with mild soap, press out the water in a towel and dry flat. Don’t tumble dry, because the linen and the cotton may shrink at different rates.
Final Notes
The whole design rests on one measurement chain:
- 10 mesh = 4 in, so 30 mesh = 12 in (30.5 cm).
- 40 rows = 16 in (40.6 cm) on the back, and 28 rows = 11.2 in (28.4 cm) on the pocket.
- 3 border rounds add 0.6 in (1.5 cm) to each edge. That gives 13.2 in × 17.2 in (33.5 cm × 43.7 cm) for the organizer and 12.4 in (31.5 cm) for the pocket height.
- The 58 matched side sts leave the pocket opening 4.8 in (12.2 cm) below the top.
Check your gauge on the pocket and keep your counts accurate, and the lattice will line up every time.
Happy crocheting!