This soap saver works two ways. Laid flat, it is a textured square that holds a bar of soap by the sink. Pull the two cords and it closes into a round, scaly pouch that hangs in the shower and turns every soap scrap into lather.
The front is made of white shell stitches in offset rows, so the scallops overlap like fish scales. A contrast color traces the top of each scallop. The sample uses turquoise, and yellow and purple look just as good. A white eyelet band and a bead-like picot edge in the contrast color frame the square. Two matching cords with beaded ends run through the eyelets.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished square is 8 in × 8 in (20.3 cm × 20.3 cm) when flat.
The body is worked flat in rows of shell stitch and topped with a leveling row. Next, the contrast scallop lines are added with surface slip stitch. The edge gets a four-round border, and finally you make two cords and weave them through the eyelets.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 8 in × 8 in (20.3 cm × 20.3 cm), flat
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) cotton
- Hook: 4 mm (US G-6)
- Number of pieces: 1 square, plus 2 drawstring cords
- Layout: single square, no joining
- Body size (before border): 6.5 in × 6.5 in (16.5 cm × 16.5 cm)
- Border depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm) on each side
Materials
Use 100% cotton or a cotton blend. Cotton holds the shell texture well, dries quickly and stands up to soap. Avoid acrylic, which stays slick and wet. A smooth, firm cotton shows the scallop outlines most clearly.
- White (main color): 35 g, about 77 m
- Turquoise (contrast): 20 g, about 44 m (or yellow or purple for the other colorways)
The quantities assume about 110 m per 50 g and include a margin of roughly 15%.
Tools:
– 4 mm (US G-6) hook
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Stitch markers (4)
– 4 large-hole pony beads, 6–9 mm
– Pins and a blocking mat or folded towel
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitches
- Shell: 5 dc in the same stitch.
- Picot: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.
- Surface slip stitch (surf sl st): Hold the yarn behind the work. Insert the hook from front to back through the fabric and pull up a loop. Then insert the hook at the next point, pull up a loop, and draw it through the loop on the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge in sc is 19 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm). In shell pattern, 4 shell rows = 2 in (5.1 cm). Since this is a single piece, the body is your gauge swatch. Measure it at each checkpoint below.
- After Row 1: the strip of 31 sc measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide.
- After Row 5: the body measures about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall.
- After Row 14: the body measures 6.5 in × 6.5 in (16.5 cm × 16.5 cm).
- After border Rnd 1: 7 in (17.8 cm) square.
- After border Rnd 2: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) square.
- After border Rnd 4: 8 in (20.3 cm) square.
If Row 1 is too wide, go down to a 3.5 mm hook. If it is too narrow, go up to a 4.5 mm hook. Don’t change the stitch count, because the shell repeat depends on exactly 31 sts.
If the body is square in width but short, your shell rows are tight. Add one A-row and one B-row before Row 14 and expect the cords to need 2 in (5.1 cm) more length.
Body
The body is all white. The shell rows alternate between two types. A-rows start and end with a sc and have 5 full shells. B-rows start and end with half shells, with 4 full shells between them. Every row has 31 sts.
Foundation: With white, ch 32.
Row 1 (base): Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (31 sc)
Row 2 (A-row, RS): Ch 1, sc in the first st, sk 2, shell in the next st, sk 2, sc in the next st 5 times, turn. (5 shells + 6 sc = 31 sts)
The side facing you on Row 2 is the RS. Place a marker on it.
Row 3 (B-row): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the first sc. Sk 2, sc in the next dc (the center of the shell), sk 2, shell in the next sc 4 times. Sk 2, sc in the center dc of the last shell, sk 2, 3 dc in the last sc, turn. (3 dc + 5 sc + 4 shells + 3 dc = 31 sts)
Row 4 (A-row): Ch 1, sc in the first dc. Sk 2, shell in the next sc, sk 2, sc in the next dc (the center dc of the shell or the edge) 5 times, placing the last sc in the top of the turning ch-3, turn. (31 sts)
Rows 5–13: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 four more times, then work Row 3 once more. Row 13 is a B-row.
You now have 12 shell rows (Rows 2–13): six A-rows and six B-rows. At this point the body is about 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall.
Row 14 (leveling row): This row fills the low points of Row 13, which are the 5 sc, so the top edge comes out straight.
Ch 1, sc in the first 2 sts. Hdc in the next st, dc in the next sc, hdc in the next st, sc in the next 3 sts 4 times. Hdc in the next st, dc in the next sc, hdc in the next st, sc in the last 2 sts. Do not fasten off.
(16 sc + 10 hdc + 5 dc = 31 sts)
Checkpoint: The body should measure 6.5 in × 6.5 in (16.5 cm × 16.5 cm). Keep the white yarn attached for the border, and pull up a long loop so it won’t unravel while you work the outlines.
Scallop Outlines
These contrast lines give the piece its scale look. Because they are surface stitches, the back stays mostly white.
With the RS facing, work one outline line along the top of each shell row (Rows 2–13), for 12 lines in total.
- Hold the contrast yarn behind the work. Start at the right edge of the row and insert the hook just below the top loops of the first stitch.
- Work 1 surf sl st just below the top loops of each stitch across: 31 surf sl sts per line. The line follows the shells as it goes. It climbs over each 5-dc arch and dips down at each sc, which leaves a colored crescent along the crest of every scallop. On B-rows, the half shells at the edges get half-crescents.
- Fasten off and leave 4-in (10.2 cm) tails on the WS. The border will cover the tails at the edges, so weave them only 1 in (2.5 cm) along the edge.
Tension tip: Keep each loop the same size as one stitch top. If the loops are too tight, the shells will flatten and the square will cup. If they are too loose, the line looks dotted. To check, lay the piece flat. It should not ripple.
Border
Border gauge matches the body: about 4.75 sts per inch (1.9 sts per cm). Rounds 1 and 2 are worked in white, and Rounds 3 and 4 in the contrast color. All rounds are worked with the RS facing.
Rnd 1 (white sc): Pick up the white loop and turn so the RS faces you.
- Top edge: Work 3 sc in the first st of Row 14 (the corner), then sc in the next 29 sts, then 3 sc in the last st (the corner).
- Left side: Work 29 sc along the row ends. Place 5 sc over each pair of shell-row ends for the first 5 pairs (25 sc), then 4 sc over the last pair (4 sc).
- Bottom edge: Working into the free loops of the foundation chain, work 3 sc in the first loop, sc in the next 29 loops, and 3 sc in the last loop.
- Right side: Work 29 sc along the row ends, spaced the same way as the left side.
Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Count: 29 sc between corner groups on each side, plus 4 corner groups of 3. Each side, counted from corner center to corner center, has 33 sts.
(4 × 29) + (4 × 3) = 128 sc
Checkpoint: 7 in × 7 in (17.8 cm × 17.8 cm). Place a marker in each corner center sc.
Rnd 2 (white eyelet round): Sl st into the next sc (the corner center). Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2) and dc in the same st.
(Ch 1, sk 1, dc in the next st) 15 times, ch 1, sk 1, then (dc, ch 2, dc) in the corner center. Repeat from * around, omitting the last corner. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-5. Fasten off the white.
There are 31 sts between corner centers. The 15 repeats use 30 of them, and the final “ch 1, sk 1” uses the 31st, so each side ends exactly at the next corner.
Count per side: 15 dc + 2 corner dc = 17 dc, and 16 ch-1 eyelets.
Round total: 68 dc, 64 ch-1 sps and 4 ch-2 corner sps, for 68 eyelet openings in all.
Checkpoint: 7.5 in × 7.5 in (19.1 cm × 19.1 cm).
Rnd 3 (contrast sc): Join the contrast yarn in any corner ch-2 sp.
Work 3 sc in each corner ch-2 sp. Between corners, work 1 sc in each dc and 1 sc in each ch. Insert the hook into the chain stitch itself, not around it, so the eyelets stay open for the cord. Join to the first sc.
Count per side: 17 dc + 16 ch = 33 sc between corner groups.
(4 × 33) + (4 × 3) = 144 sc
Rnd 4 (contrast picot edge): Sl st into the next sc (the corner center).
(Sc, picot, sc) in the corner center. (Sc in the next 2 sts, picot) 17 times, sc in the next st. Repeat from * around and join to the first sc. Fasten off.
There are 35 sts between corner centers (the 1 corner-group sc, the 33 side sts, and the next corner-group sc). The repeats use 17 × 2 = 34 of them, and the final sc uses the 35th.
Count: 144 sts each worked once, plus 4 extra corner sc = 148 sc, and 18 picots per side = 72 picots.
Why the math works: At the border gauge, each side gains about 2 sts for every 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of border depth. The count from corner center to corner center grows from 33 in Rnd 1, to 37 in Rnd 3, to 39 in Rnd 4. That keeps pace with sides of 7 in, 7.5 in and 8 in (17.8 cm, 19.1 cm and 20.3 cm), so the edge lies flat instead of cupping or rippling.
Checkpoint: 8 in × 8 in (20.3 cm × 20.3 cm).
Drawstring Cords (make 2)
With the contrast yarn, ch 170. Sl st into the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch across. (169 sl sts) Fasten off.
Each cord should measure about 42 in (106.7 cm). That covers the Rnd 2 perimeter of 30 in (76.2 cm) plus two 6-in (15.2 cm) tails. If your cord comes out short, add chains in groups of 4. Each group adds about 1 in (2.5 cm).
Weaving the cords:
- Cord A: Start at one corner. Thread a tapestry needle with the cord and weave it over and under through every eyelet in Rnd 2, all the way around the square (68 openings). Bring it out next to where it went in, at the same corner.
- Cord B: Repeat from the diagonally opposite corner. The two cords should sit in alternate passes, so where Cord A goes under a dc post, Cord B goes over it.
- Slide a bead onto each of the 4 cord ends. Tie an overhand knot below each bead and trim, leaving a 0.25 in (0.6 cm) tail.
To close the pouch, set the soap in the center and pull both pairs of cord ends at the same time. The scallops bunch into a rounded pouch with the picot edge gathered at the top.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the WS.
- Pull the cords fully open so the square lies flat.
- Wet the piece in lukewarm water and squeeze it gently in a towel.
- Pin it to an 8 in × 8 in (20.3 cm × 20.3 cm) square, with a pin at each corner and one at the middle of each side.
- With your fingertips, lift each shell so it stands up. Don’t flatten the texture.
- Let it dry completely before you cinch it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Every body row has 31 sts and all 12 shell rows are present.
- [ ] The body measured 6.5 in (16.5 cm) square before the border.
- [ ] There are 12 outline lines, each following the scallop crests.
- [ ] Rnd 1 has 128 sc, Rnd 2 has 68 open eyelets, Rnd 3 has 144 sc, and Rnd 4 has 148 sc and 72 picots.
- [ ] The finished square is 8 in (20.3 cm) on all sides.
- [ ] Both cords weave freely and close the pouch evenly.
- [ ] The beads are knotted securely.
Troubleshooting
- The square cups: The outline loops are too tight. Rip out one line and redo it with larger loops.
- The border ripples: Rnd 1 has too many sts on the sides. Recount and make sure there are 29 between corner groups.
- The border pulls in: Use a hook 0.5 mm larger for Rnds 3–4.
- The cord won’t slide: Rnd 3 was worked around the chains instead of into them, which closes the eyelets. Weave the cord through the gaps between the dc posts instead.
- The pouch closes lopsided: The two cords started at corners next to each other. Rethread Cord B from the opposite corner.
- The shell rows lean: You skipped the wrong number of sts. Each repeat must skip exactly 2.
Care
Rinse out the soap residue after use and hang the pouch to dry. Machine wash warm in a laundry bag and lay flat to dry, so the shells keep their shape.
Final Notes
The measurement chain goes like this:
- 31 sts make a body 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide.
- 14 rows make it 6.5 in (16.5 cm) tall.
- The border brings it to 7 in (17.8 cm), then 7.5 in (19.1 cm), then 8 in (20.3 cm).
- Two 42-in (106.7 cm) cords loop the 30-in (76.2 cm) eyelet round.
If each checkpoint matches, the square lies flat and the pouch cinches neatly around a standard bar of soap. Happy crocheting!