This plastic bag holder is a single tall tube in warm mustard yarn. The body is an open diamond mesh, so you can see the bags inside. A solid band at each end holds the shape, and a sturdy loop at the top hangs it on a wall hook. You stuff bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time through the smaller opening at the bottom.
The look is simple and a little bit farmhouse. There is one golden color, a firm single crochet band at the top, a narrower single crochet cuff at the bottom, and an even, open lattice in between. It looks good empty and filled.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 15.25 in (38.7 cm) tall without the loop and about 17.75 in (45.1 cm) tall with it. Laid flat and empty, the mesh body is about 7 in (17.8 cm) wide.
You make the whole thing in one piece, from the bottom up, in joined rounds. Start with a chain ring and a solid cuff, increase once, then work 17 rounds of chain-5 mesh. Close the top with a solid band. Finish with a slip stitch edge at each end and a covered-chain hanging loop. The only sewing is weaving in ends.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 15.25 in (38.7 cm) tall without the loop; 17.75 in (45.1 cm) with it
- Flat width: about 5 in (12.7 cm) at the bottom cuff; about 7 in (17.8 cm) at the top band and mesh body
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (a seamless tube)
- Layout: bottom cuff, mesh body, top band, hanging loop
- Piece size before edging: 15.25 in (38.7 cm) tall
- Edging depth: one slip stitch round at each end, which adds almost no height
Materials
Yarn: A worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend gives a firm, crisp mesh that holds its shape. Acrylic also works, but it stretches more under the weight of the bags. Choose a smooth yarn so the diamonds look clean.
- Mustard / golden yellow: about 80 g, roughly 150 m (164 yd)
These amounts include a margin of about 20 percent, so you’ll have yarn left for a gauge check and the loop.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 2 stitch markers
- Scissors
- Tape measure
- Spray bottle, plus a rolled towel or tall jar for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- 2 sc in next – increase: 2 sc in the same stitch
Special term – ch-5 loop: In the mesh, a “loop” is the ch-5 space between two sc. To work “in the loop,” put your hook under the chain into the open space, not into a chain stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked in the round.
Mesh gauge: 4 mesh rnds = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, unstretched. That’s about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) per mesh rnd.
Because this is a single piece, the cuff is your test. Work Rnds 1–4, then check your size before going on.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 4: The ring is about 10.3 in (26.2 cm) around, or about 5 in (12.7 cm) wide laid flat. The cuff is 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 5: The cuff is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall and has 48 sts.
- After Rnd 10: The mesh is about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall above the cuff.
- After Rnd 22: The mesh is 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall, and the piece is 14 in (35.6 cm) tall in total.
- After Rnd 27: The top band is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall, and the whole piece is 15.25 in (38.7 cm) tall.
If the cuff is too big, switch to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, switch to a 5.5 mm hook. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the mesh repeat depends on 48 sts. If only the height is off, add or remove mesh rnds.
Pattern
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing you. Don’t turn. Put a marker in the first st of each rnd. The ch-1 at the start of a rnd never counts as a stitch.
Bottom Cuff
Foundation: Ch 36. Sl st into the first ch to make a ring, making sure the chain isn’t twisted.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc)
Rnds 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (36 sc)
Rnd 5 (increase round): Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * 12 times in total, join. (36 sts worked into + 12 extra = 48 sc)
The cuff is now 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall. It stays narrow so bags come out one at a time.
Mesh Body
Rnd 6 (mesh setup): Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join, ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 10 more times, ch 5, sk the last 3 sts, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
Check: each repeat uses 4 sts (1 sc + 3 skipped), and 12 × 4 = 48.
Rnd 7: Sl st in each of the next 2 ch, ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop; repeat from * 10 more times, ch 5, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-5 loops)
The slip stitches move your starting point to the middle of the loop. Each new sc lands in the center of a loop from the round below. That offset is what makes the diamonds.
Rnds 8–22: Repeat Rnd 7. (12 sc, 12 ch-5 loops in every round)
That’s 17 mesh rnds in total (Rnd 6 plus Rnds 7–22). The mesh should be about 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall, and the piece about 14 in (35.6 cm) tall.
Tip: The starting point moves slightly sideways each round, so the joins form a gentle spiral. This is normal. Your marker shows where each round begins.
Top Band
Rnd 23 (conversion round): Sl st in each of the next 2 ch, ch 1, 4 sc in the same loop, 4 sc in next ch-5 loop; repeat from * 10 more times, join. (12 loops × 4 sc = 48 sc)
Skip the sc between the loops and work only into the spaces. This closes the mesh with the same 48 sts you had in Rnd 5.
Rnds 24–27: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sc)
The top band is now 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall. Don’t fasten off yet.
Edging and Hanging Loop
The tube has no corners. For the edging, lay the tube flat and treat each end as two “sides”: a front half and a back half.
Edging gauge: 1 sl st in each st, which matches the sc gauge of 14 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm). Keep your tension light so the edge doesn’t pull in.
Top Edge
Rnd 28: Ch 1, sl st in each st around, join. (48 sl sts: 24 on the front half, 24 on the back half)
Fasten off. Lay the tube flat with the join at one folded edge. Sts 1–24 are the front and sts 25–48 are the back. Mark sts 35 and 38 on the back.
Hanging Loop
Step 1: Join yarn with a sl st in st 35 of Rnd 28. Ch 22. Skip sts 36 and 37, then sl st in st 38.
Step 2: Turn so the chain faces you. Work 30 sc into the ch-22 space, around the chain rather than into the chain stitches. Pack the sc tightly so they cover the chain completely.
Step 3: Sl st into st 35 to close. Fasten off.
The loop rises about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) above the rim. It sits at the center of the back half, because the midpoint of sts 25–48 falls between sts 36 and 37.
Bottom Edge
Turn the piece upside down. Join yarn in any free loop of the foundation chain.
Bottom Rnd: Ch 1, sl st in each foundation ch around, join. (36 sl sts: 18 on the front half, 18 on the back half)
Fasten off.
Why the math works: Both edges use 1 sl st per existing st, with no increases or decreases. The top stays at 48 sts (24 + 24) and the bottom at 36 sts (18 + 18), so each edge matches its band.
- The top opening stays about 4.4 in (11.2 cm) across, which leaves room to load bags.
- The bottom stays about 3.3 in (8.4 cm) across. That’s small enough to grip a bag and let only one through at a time.
- The loop is packed on purpose: 30 sc over 22 ch makes a firm loop that won’t sag or stretch.
Final Blocking
- Weave all ends into the solid bands, where they hide best, and keep the mesh clear.
- Mist the whole piece lightly until it’s damp, not soaked.
- Slide the tube over a rolled towel or a tall jar about 4.4 in (11.2 cm) across.
- Gently stretch the mesh lengthwise until it’s 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall and the diamonds look even.
- Nudge each sc so it sits at the center point of its diamond.
- Shape the bottom cuff and top band into neat rings, and pull the loop straight up.
- Let it dry completely, then measure. It should be 15.25 in (38.7 cm) tall without the loop.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Bottom cuff: 36 sts, 1 in (2.5 cm) tall after Rnd 4
- Rnd 5 has 48 sts, and the cuff is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall
- Every mesh rnd has 12 sc and 12 ch-5 loops
- 17 mesh rnds, about 12.75 in (32.4 cm) tall
- Top band: 48 sts, 5 rnds, 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall
- Top edge has 48 sl sts; bottom edge has 36 sl sts
- Loop is centered on the back half and about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall
- Total height is 15.25 in (38.7 cm), or 17.75 in (45.1 cm) with the loop
- All ends are hidden in the solid bands
Troubleshooting
Wrong number of loops in a round: Count the sc; each round needs 12. Usually a loop was missed or worked twice near the join. Pull back to the start of that round and redo it.
The mesh slants a lot: A little slant is normal. If it’s strong, make sure you sl st across exactly 2 ch at the start of every round.
The bottom is too loose and bags fall out: Start over with ch 32 and 32 sc for Rnds 1–4. Then work Rnd 5 as sc in next st, 2 sc in next st around (32 sts worked into + 16 extra = 48 sc). Or use a smaller hook for Rnds 1–4 only.
The bottom is too tight: Use a hook one size larger for Rnds 1–4 only.
The top band ruffles: Some loops probably have 5 sc. Rnd 23 needs exactly 4 sc per loop, 48 in total.
The loop stretches: Add sc over the chain until it’s fully covered, or use cotton yarn.
The holder is too short: Add mesh rnds. Each one adds about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) and uses about 2.5 g of yarn.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, roll it in a towel to press out the water, and dry it over a jar so it keeps its shape. Don’t use a dryer, which can shrink cotton and fuzz the mesh.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and easy to check:
- A 36-st cuff at 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) makes a bottom ring about 10.3 in (26.2 cm) around.
- One increase round brings it to 48 sts, which divide into 12 mesh loops of 4 sts each.
- Seventeen mesh rounds at 0.75 in (1.9 cm) each give a 12.75 in (32.4 cm) body.
- Rnd 23 turns 12 loops × 4 sc back into 48 sts.
- Two 1.25 in (3.2 cm) bands plus the mesh make 15.25 in (38.7 cm), and the loop adds 2.5 in (6.4 cm) for 17.75 in (45.1 cm) overall.
If your cuff measures correctly after Rnd 4, the rest of the sizes will follow. Hang it near the kitchen door, fill it, and enjoy one less messy drawer.
Happy crocheting!