This hanging holder stacks three lotus-flower baskets on two slim straps that meet at a wooden ring. Each basket holds one standard toilet roll. Rings of soft petals wrap around the outside, so the holder looks like three blooms hanging on the wall.
The palette is dusty rose pink with olive green. The bases and the lowest ring of leaf petals are green. The inner walls and two staggered rings of rounded petals are pink. The overall look is cozy and botanical, and it suits a bathroom with plants, brass fixtures, and cream towels.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished basket measures about 5½ in (14.0 cm) across the base, 7½ in (19.1 cm) across the petals, and 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall. The whole hanger is about 22 in (55.9 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom basket.
Each basket is worked from the bottom up. You crochet a flat circle, then work the walls in joined rounds, leaving three rings of free front loops on the outside. The petals are then crocheted into those loops. Two straps in rows are sewn to the baskets and wrapped around a wooden ring. Last, a crab-stitch rim finishes each basket.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 5½ in (14.0 cm) base diameter; 7½ in (19.1 cm) across the petals; 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall
- Overall hanging length: about 22 in (55.9 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps) plus 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically, with straps on opposite sides
- Wall height before border: 3 in (7.6 cm)
- Border depth: ¼ in (0.6 cm), one round of crab stitch
Materials
Choose a firm bulky yarn so the baskets keep their shape. A cotton blend or a smooth acrylic both work well. Avoid fluffy yarns because they hide the petal edges.
- Olive green: 150 g / 180 m (197 yd), for the bases, green wall rounds, leaf petals, and straps
- Dusty pink: 150 g / 180 m (197 yd), for the walls, two petal rings, and rims
These quantities include a margin of about 25% for swatching and color placement.
Tools:
– 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
– Wooden ring, 2¾ in (7.0 cm) outside diameter
– 6 locking stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Rust-proof pins
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- sk – skip
- BLO – back loop only
- FL – front loop
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Special stitches:
– Green petal (GP): 7 dc in the same stitch.
– Pink petal (PP): (2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc) in the same stitch.
– Crab stitch (rev sc): Work from left to right. Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 11 sc × 12 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc.
Make one full basket before you start the others. It works as your gauge swatch.
Checkpoints:
– After Round 8, the flat base measures 5½ in (14.0 cm) across.
– After Round 17, the wall measures 3 in (7.6 cm) tall from the base edge, and the circumference is about 17½ in (44.5 cm).
– After the petals are done, the basket measures about 7½ in (19.1 cm) across the petal tips.
– Check the strap after 12 rows. It should be 4 in (10.2 cm) long and about 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
If your basket is too big: Go down to a 5.5 mm hook. A loose basket sags under the weight of a roll.
If it is too small: Go up to a 6.5 mm hook. A standard roll is about 4½ in (11.4 cm) wide, and you need some room around it.

Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds. Start every round with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch. Put the first sc in the same stitch as the join. Mark that first stitch as “st 1” in every round. Keeping st 1 lined up is what lets the petals and straps fall in the right places.
Base (Olive Green)
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, sl st to the first sc. (6)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, sl st to join. (12)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc; repeat 6 times, join. (18)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc; repeat 6 times, join. (24)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc; repeat 6 times, join. (30)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc; repeat 6 times, join. (36)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, inc; repeat 6 times, join. (42)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, inc; repeat 6 times, join. (48)
Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 5½ in (14.0 cm) across.
Wall
Rnd 9 (green): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (48)
Working in BLO turns the wall upward and leaves a ring of 48 free front loops from Round 8 for the green petals.
Rnd 10 (green): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Change to pink on the final sl st, then cut green. (48)
Rnd 11 (pink): Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48)
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (48) This leaves the free front loops of Round 12 for Pink Petal Ring 1.
Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48)
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (48) This leaves the free front loops of Round 14 for Pink Petal Ring 2.
Rnds 16–17: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48)
Do not fasten off. Place a marker in the working loop, because you will add the rim border after joining.
Checkpoint: the wall is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, which is 9 rounds at ⅓ in (0.8 cm) each.
Petals
Hold the basket upright with the rim toward you. Work each petal ring into the free front loops so the petals stand up along the outside wall.
Green Petal Ring (FL of Round 8): Join green with a sl st in the FL of st 1. Sc in FL of next st, sk 1, GP in FL of next st, sk 1; repeat 12 times. Sl st to the first sc and fasten off.
The first sc goes into st 1 and the first petal is centered on st 3. Count: 12 sc + 84 dc = 96 sts, which makes 12 petals.
Pink Petal Ring 1 (FL of Round 12): Join pink in the FL of st 3. Sc in FL of next st, sk 1, PP in FL of next st, sk 1; repeat 12 times. Join and fasten off.
Petal centers fall on sts 5, 9, 13, and so on through st 1. This staggers each pink petal over the gap between two green petals. Count: 12 sc + 84 sts = 96 sts, which makes 12 petals.
Pink Petal Ring 2 (FL of Round 14): Join pink in the FL of st 1. Work the same repeat as Ring 1, 12 times. Join and fasten off. (96 sts, 12 petals)
These petals line up with the green petals and are staggered against Ring 1. That staggering is what gives the layered, scale-like lotus look.
Each petal ring covers 48 front loops at 4 sts per repeat, and 12 × 4 = 48. The petals stand out and ruffle slightly because each repeat holds 8 stitches over a 4-stitch base. That ruffle is what cups them. Weave in all the petal tails on the inside.
Straps (Make 2)
Use olive green.
Row 1: Ch 4, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 2 ch. (3)
Rows 2–66: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3)
Edging: Ch 1. Sl st loosely into each row-end along the first long edge (66). Then work 3 sl st across the short end, 66 sl st along the second long edge, and 3 sl st across the other short end. That makes 138 sl st in total. Fasten off.
The strap measures 22 in (55.9 cm) long, which is 66 rows at 3 rows per inch. It is about 1¼ in (3.2 cm) wide after edging.
Strap row map (from Row 1):
– Rows 1–6: ring fold, 2 in (5.1 cm)
– Rows 7–20: drop from ring to top basket, 4⅔ in (11.9 cm)
– Rows 21–30: Basket 1, 3⅓ in (8.5 cm)
– Rows 31–38: gap, 2⅔ in (6.8 cm)
– Rows 39–48: Basket 2
– Rows 49–56: gap
– Rows 57–66: Basket 3
Total: 6 + 14 + 10 + 8 + 10 + 8 + 10 = 66 rows.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 3, each using about 30 g green and 35 g pink
- Straps: 2, about 20 g green for both together
Layout:
( ring )
/ \
Strap A Strap B
[ Basket 1 – top ]
| |
[ Basket 2 – middle ]
| |
[ Basket 3 – bottom ]
On every basket, Strap A is centered on the st 1 column and Strap B on the st 25 column. These two columns are 24 sts apart, which puts the straps exactly opposite each other.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with green yarn and a tapestry needle.
- Fold strap Rows 1–6 around the wooden ring toward the back. Sew Row 1 across the back of Row 12. Do the same with the second strap, placing the two straps side by side on the ring.
- Lay out the three baskets 2⅔ in (6.8 cm) apart, with st 1 of every basket in a straight line.
- On Basket 1, put Strap A’s Row 21 on the outside wall at Round 17, centered on the st 1 column so it covers sts 48, 1, and 2. Lift the petals and slide the strap behind them against the wall.
- Stitch-to-stitch logic: Strap rows and wall rounds have the same height, ⅓ in (0.8 cm). That means Rows 21–29 match Rounds 17–9 one to one. Row 30 wraps around the base edge onto Round 8. Whipstitch both long strap edges to the wall columns on each side, and catch every row.
- Repeat with Strap B on the st 25 column (sts 24–26).
- Repeat for Basket 2 (Rows 39–48) and Basket 3 (Rows 57–66). Tuck the Row 66 end under the base and sew it down.
Tension: Sew firmly but don’t pull. Puckered seams shorten the strap and tilt the baskets.
Size checkpoint: Hold the hanger by the ring. Each gap between baskets should measure 2⅔ in (6.8 cm), and the full length should be about 22 in (55.9 cm). The straps should sit in the gaps between the green petals and in Ring 2, with Pink Ring 1 petals covering them.
Border
Border gauge: Crab stitch is worked 1 stitch per stitch at the same gauge as the body, which is 11 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Do this on each basket. Put the marked pink loop back on the hook. You can also join pink at st 1 of Round 17.
Rnd 18: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, then sl st to the first st. (48)
Count per side: The straps split the rim into two halves. Each half has 24 rev sc from strap center to strap center, and 24 + 24 = 48. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: Round 17 has 48 sts, and you work exactly 1 rev sc into each of them. The rim keeps the same circumference as the wall, about 17½ in (44.5 cm), so it neither flares nor pulls in. The corded edge adds ¼ in (0.6 cm). The wall goes from 3 in (7.6 cm) to 3¼ in (8.3 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water.
- Stuff it firmly with a plastic bag or a hand towel that is about 5½ in (14.0 cm) wide.
- Shape each petal with your fingers. Curve the tips slightly outward and lay each ring over the one below it.
- Pin the straps flat on a towel, stretching each gap to 2⅔ in (6.8 cm).
- Let everything dry completely, which takes 12 to 24 hours.
- Remove the stuffing and hang the holder to check that it hangs level.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every base measures 5½ in (14.0 cm) across.
- Every wall has 48 sts and is 3¼ in (8.3 cm) tall with the border.
- Each basket has 12 green petals and two rings of 12 pink petals, all staggered.
- The straps sit on the st 1 and st 25 columns of all three baskets.
- Both gaps measure 2⅔ in (6.8 cm).
- The ring fold is sewn securely on both straps.
- No tails show on the outside.
- A roll drops in and lifts out easily.
Troubleshooting
- Base is cupping: Your tension is too tight on the increase rounds. Go up a hook size for Rounds 1–8.
- Base is ruffling: Recount the increases. Each round should add exactly 6 sts.
- Petals lie flat instead of cupping: You may have skipped too few stitches. Check that each repeat covers 4 front loops.
- Petal rings are not staggered: Ring 1 must start in st 3. Ring 2 and the green ring start in st 1.
- Hanger tilts: One strap has puckered. Unpick it and resew so that each row matches one round.
- Roll is too snug: Remake the basket with a hook one size larger.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and reshape the baskets while they dry flat. Do not tumble dry, because heat flattens the petals.

Final Notes
Each measurement in this pattern builds on the one before it. A gauge of 11 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 48-stitch base that is 5½ in (14.0 cm) across. Nine wall rounds make it 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, and the crab-stitch rim brings it to 3¼ in (8.3 cm). The 66-row straps at 3 rows per inch are 22 in (55.9 cm) long, which covers the ring fold, three baskets, and two gaps of 2⅔ in (6.8 cm). If you check gauge first and keep st 1 aligned, the petals, straps, and spacing will come out where they should.
Happy crocheting!