Lavender Fan Three-Tier Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

This hanging holder stores three spare rolls in a stack of lacy baskets. It hangs from one wooden ring, so it fits on a towel hook, a door hook or a small wall peg, and it doesn’t take up any floor or counter space.

Each basket starts with a solid round base, then a firm side band, then a row of open fans that ends in soft scallops along the top. Two slim side straps hold the three baskets together and meet in a V at a short tab wrapped around the ring. The sample is worked in one soft lavender cotton, which suits a calm, light-colored bathroom.

The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) at its widest and about 17.25 in (43.8 cm) from the bottom of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket. Each basket is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.

You will crochet the three baskets in joined rounds, then two long single crochet straps and a small hanging tab. The straps are tacked to each basket at its rim and base, edged with reverse single crochet, and the whole holder is blocked.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide × 17.25 in (43.8 cm) long below the ring
• Skill level: Intermediate
• Terminology: US
• Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
• Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
• Number of pieces: 6 (3 baskets, 2 straps, 1 tab)
• Layout: 1 column × 3 baskets, with a 1 in (2.5 cm) gap between baskets
• Piece size: each basket has a 4.75 in (12.1 cm) base, a 5.5 in (14.0 cm) top opening and a height of 3.5 in (8.9 cm); each strap is 16.5 in (41.9 cm) long
• Strap width before border: 0.6 in (1.5 cm)
• Border depth: 1 round of reverse sc on each long strap edge, adding about 0.1 in (0.3 cm) per edge, for a finished strap width of 0.8 in (2.0 cm)

Materials

Yarn: Use a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape, stands up to bathroom humidity and shows the lace clearly. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylic, because the baskets will sag under the weight of the rolls.

• Lavender: 200 g, about 320 m (350 yd)

The quantity includes a margin of about 15–20% for a gauge swatch and small differences in tension.

Tools:
– 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
– Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outside diameter
– 6 locking stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Tape measure
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking surface
– 3 standard toilet rolls or a rolled towel, to use as blocking forms

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• BLO: back loop only
• sk: skip
• sp: space
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

V-st (V-stitch): (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch.

Fan: (dc, ch 1) 3 times, then dc, all in the same space. One fan has 4 dc and 3 ch-1 spaces.

Rev sc: Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 sc × 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked flat with a 4.5 mm hook.

Make one basket completely before you start the others, and check these points as you go:

• After Rnd 5 (30 sts): the base measures about 2.4 in (6.1 cm) across.
• After Rnd 10 (60 sts): the base measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across and lies flat.
• After Rnd 17: the solid side band stands about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the base ridge.
• After Rnd 21: the basket is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall and a standard roll, about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) wide, slides in easily.

Base too large or ruffled: go down to a 4 mm hook. Base too small or cupping: go up to a 5 mm hook. If only the side band is off, change hooks for Rnds 11–17 only. The strap placement is planned for a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) basket, so get the first basket right before making the others.

Basket (Make 3)

Join every round with a sl st to the first st. The ch 1 at the start of a sc round does not count as a stitch.

Base

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc 1, inc around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc 1, inc, sc 2, inc 5 times, sc 1. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc 3, inc around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc 2, inc, sc 4, inc 5 times, sc 2. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc 5, inc around. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc 3, inc, sc 6, inc 5 times, sc 3. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc 7, inc around. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc 5 times, sc 4. (60 sts)

The increases are staggered so the base stays round rather than hexagonal. Check that it measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.

Solid Side Band

Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st around. (60 sts)
Working into the back loops leaves a ridge of front loops, which makes the crisp fold between the base and the sides.

Rnds 12–17: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (60 sts each round)

Lace Band

Rnd 18 (V-st round): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in the same st as the join. Sk 2 sts, V-st in the next st. Repeat from * 18 more times, sk the last 2 sts, then join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4.
Count: 20 V-sts. Check: 1 + (19 × 3) = 58 sts worked or used as bases, plus the final 2 skipped sts = 60 ✓

Rnd 19 (fan round): Sl st into the first ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp. Ch 1, fan in the ch-1 sp of the next V-st, ch 1, sc in the ch-1 sp of the next V-st. Repeat from * around, leaving out the last sc, and join to the first sc.
Count: 10 fans and 10 sc. The fans and sc alternate, so the 20 V-sts are split evenly.

Rnd 20 (scallop round): Sl st into the next ch-1 sp, sl st into the first dc of the fan, then sl st into the first ch-1 sp of the fan. 3 dc in this ch-1 sp, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp, then sc in the next sc (skip the ch-1 spaces on either side of it). Sl st into the first ch-1 sp of the next fan. Repeat from * around. On the last repeat, finish with the sc and join to the first dc.
Count: 10 scallops of 9 dc, plus 10 sc = 100 sts.

Rnd 21 (rim): Ch 1. Sc in each of the next 9 dc, sl st in the next sc. Repeat from * around and join.
Count: 90 sc + 10 sl st = 100 sts.

The sl st in each valley pulls it down a little, which makes the rounded scallop tops along the rim. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Basket checkpoint: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with a top opening of about 5.5 in (14.0 cm).

Straps (Make 2)

Ch 67.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (66 sts)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (66 sts each row)

Fasten off. Each strap measures 16.5 in (41.9 cm) × 0.6 in (1.5 cm). Hold off on the edging; it is worked after joining (see Border).

Hanging Tab (Make 1)

Ch 6.

Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (5 sts)
Rows 2–18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts each row)

The tab measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) × 4 in (10.2 cm). Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing.

Make All Pieces

All pieces are made in lavender:

• Baskets: 3
• Straps: 2
• Hanging tab: 1

Layout (front view, top to bottom):

        [ RING ]
         [TAB]
         /   \        <- straps form a V
   |[ BASKET 1 ]|
   |    gap     |
   |[ BASKET 2 ]|
   |    gap     |
   |[ BASKET 3 ]|
   ^ strap      ^ strap

Joining

Method: Tack the straps down with small hand stitches through the center row (Row 2) only. Tacking through the center row keeps both long edges free for the rev sc border.

Mark the straps. Count from one end of each strap and place markers at these sts:

• Sts 1–2: overlap behind the tab, 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
• Sts 3–16: the V section, 14 sts = 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
• St 17: rim of Basket 1
• St 30: base ridge of Basket 1, 14 sts below the rim = 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
• Sts 31–34: gap, 4 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm)
• St 35: rim of Basket 2. St 48: base ridge of Basket 2
• Sts 49–52: gap
• St 53: rim of Basket 3. St 66: base ridge of Basket 3

Check: 2 + 14 + 14 + 4 + 14 + 4 + 14 = 66 ✓

Mark the baskets. Each rim has 10 valleys (the sl sts). Pick any valley and mark it, then count 5 scallops along and mark the valley there. The two marked valleys sit exactly opposite each other, and these are the side points. On the Rnd 11 ridge, mark the stitch directly below each of them.

Tab and ring: Wrap the tab around the ring, folding it in half. Whipstitch Row 18 to Row 1 through all 5 sts.

Steps:

1. Lay the tab right side down. Place strap st 1–2 of each strap behind the lower end of the tab, with one strap flush with the left edge of the tab and the other flush with the right edge. Whipstitch across the full overlap.
2. Spread the straps into a V. Tack strap st 17 to a rim valley marker on Basket 1, and strap st 30 to the base ridge marker directly below it.
3. Repeat on Basket 2 (sts 35 and 48) and Basket 3 (sts 53 and 66).
4. Make each tack 3 small stitches over a 3-st length, about 0.75 in (1.9 cm), through Row 2 only.

Tension: Pull each tack snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the lace puckers. If the tacks are too loose, the baskets tip forward when they hold rolls.

Size checkpoint: Hang the holder from the ring. It should measure about 17.25 in (43.8 cm) from the bottom of the ring to the bottom of Basket 3, with even 1 in (2.5 cm) gaps between baskets.

Border

Border gauge: 1 rev sc per sc, so 4 rev sc = 1 in (2.5 cm), the same as the strap’s own gauge.

Border Rnd (each long edge of each strap): Join the yarn at one end. Ch 1, then work 1 rev sc in each st along the edge to the other end. Fasten off. Repeat on the other long edge, working into the free loops of the foundation chain.

Counts per strap:

• Edge along Row 3: 66 rev sc
• Edge along the foundation chain: 66 rev sc
• Short ends: no edging, because they are sewn under the tab and against the base of Basket 3

Total: 132 rev sc per strap, 264 for both straps.

Where a strap passes a tack, work only into the strap’s own edge stitches. The tacks run through Row 2, so the edge loops are free.

Why the math works: Each strap edge has 66 stitches, and you work exactly 1 rev sc into each of them. Nothing is added or skipped, so the edge stays at 16.5 in (41.9 cm). It won’t ruffle and it won’t pull in. The rev sc only adds the ropey texture and about 0.1 in (0.3 cm) of depth per edge. That brings the finished strap to 0.8 in (2.0 cm) wide.

Final Blocking

1. Weave in all remaining ends, following the stitch path inside the solid areas.
2. Wet the whole holder in cool water, then gently press out the water inside a towel. Don’t wring it.
3. Put a toilet roll (or a towel rolled to 4.25 in / 10.8 cm across) inside each basket to act as a form.
4. Open each fan with your fingers and round out every scallop so the rim is even.
5. Lay the holder flat with the straps straight and the gaps at 1 in (2.5 cm). Pin the straps and the V in place.
6. Let it dry completely, which takes 24–48 hours for cotton. Then remove the forms.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• Each base is flat and 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
• The front-loop ridge shows clearly around every basket.
• Each basket has 10 fans and 10 even scallops.
• All three baskets are 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
• The straps are attached at opposite valleys, so the baskets hang level.
• The V is even, with both straps the same length from the tab to Basket 1.
• The rev sc edging runs the full length of all 4 long strap edges.
• The tab is sewn securely around the ring.
• The total length is about 17.25 in (43.8 cm).
• All ends are hidden.

Troubleshooting

• Base ruffles: You probably added an extra increase. Count each round against the stitch count given.
• Base cups upward: Your tension is too tight. Go up half a hook size for the base.
• Rnd 18 doesn’t end evenly: Rnd 17 isn’t exactly 60 sts. Rip back and recount.
• Scallops look flat: Check that you worked the sl st into each valley sc in Rnd 21.
• Basket tilts forward: The two side tacks aren’t opposite each other. Recount 5 scallops between the markers.
• Strap edge ruffles: You worked more than 1 rev sc into a stitch. Work exactly 66 per edge.
• Rolls won’t fit: The basket is too small. Remake it with a hook one size larger.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry, reshaping each basket over a roll. Don’t put it in the dryer, because heat can shrink the cotton unevenly.

Final Notes

Here is the full measurement chain. With a gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), a 60-st base measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across. Seven rounds make a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) solid band, and the lace band brings each basket to 3.5 in (8.9 cm). A 66-st strap is 16.5 in (41.9 cm) long, and that length divides exactly into the overlap, the V, three basket heights and two 1 in (2.5 cm) gaps. With the 2 in (5.1 cm) tab, the finished holder hangs about 17.25 in (43.8 cm) below its ring. If your first basket matches its checkpoints, the other pieces will line up.

Happy crocheting!