The Poppy Lane Plastic Bag Holder is a tall, sturdy tube that hangs from a peg and keeps grocery bags tidy. You stuff bags in through the open top and pull them out one at a time through the small opening at the bottom.
The body is worked in warm coral red in dense single crochet. Three layered poppies with black centers run down the front, and sprigs of olive-green leaves sit between them. The look is cottage-style, cheerful and practical.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Measured along the side, the finished holder is 15 in (38.1 cm) tall. It is 16 in (40.6 cm) around, which is about 5 in (12.7 cm) across when filled. The hanging strap rises about 3 in (7.6 cm) above the rim.
The construction is simple:
– Start with a chain ring that becomes the bottom opening.
– Increase for a short rounded base, then work straight up in joined rounds.
– Finish the top and bottom edges with slip stitch trim.
– Make the strap, three flowers and four leaf sprigs separately and sew them on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 15 in (38.1 cm) tall; 16 in (40.6 cm) around; 8 in (20.3 cm) wide laid flat
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate (easy body, basic appliqué skills)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (CYC 4, medium)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 body, 1 strap, 3 poppies, 4 leaf sprigs
- Layout: One tube. The strap ends are sewn inside the rim on the left and right sides, and the poppies run down the front face.
- Bottom opening: 8 in (20.3 cm) around, about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across
- Size before border: 14.5 in (36.8 cm) tall after Round 58
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) at the top; the bottom slip stitch edge adds no measurable height
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when the tube is packed full and shows the flower stitches clearly. The amounts below assume about 180 m (197 yd) per 100 g.
- Coral red: 200 g, about 360 m (394 yd), for the body, strap and petals
- Black: 10 g, about 18 m (20 yd), for the poppy centers
- Olive green: 20 g, about 36 m (39 yd), for the leaf sprigs
These amounts include a margin of about 15–20%, so slightly loose tension won’t leave you short.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rustproof pins
- Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- sp: space
- rnd: round
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
Special stitch: post sc from behind. Work from the back of the piece. Insert the hook from back to front around the post of the stitch named in the pattern, then from front to back. Yarn over and complete a sc. This anchors the back petal layer behind the front layer.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in joined rounds of sc.
That works out to 3.5 sts and 4 rnds per inch. Every measurement in this pattern depends on this gauge, so test first: make the bottom ring (Rounds 1–2) and measure it before you continue.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 2: the ring measures 8 in (20.3 cm) around, or 4 in (10.2 cm) laid flat.
- After Round 6: 56 sts; the edge measures 16 in (40.6 cm) around.
- After Round 22: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) along the side.
- After Round 58: 14.5 in (36.8 cm) along the side.
- After the top border: 15 in (38.1 cm).
If your piece is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to 5.5 mm. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the base shaping and strap placement depend on 56 stitches. If only your round height is off, add or remove even rounds in the tube section until you hit the checkpoint.
Pattern: Body
Work in joined rounds and don’t turn. Start every round the same way: ch 1 (this doesn’t count as a stitch) and work the first sc into the same stitch as the join. End every round with a sl st to the first sc. Keep the joins in a straight line; they will sit at one side of the holder, in line with a strap end.
Bottom Opening and Base
Foundation: With coral, ch 28. Without twisting the chain, sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join. (28 sts)
Rnd 2: Sc in each st around, join. (28 sts)
This ring is the firm rim of the bottom opening. Check your gauge now.
Rnd 3: *Sc in next 3 sts, inc; rep from * 7 times total, join. (35 sts)
Rnd 4: *Sc in next 4 sts, inc; rep from * 7 times total, join. (42 sts)
Rnd 5: *Sc in next 5 sts, inc; rep from * 7 times total, join. (49 sts)
Rnd 6: *Sc in next 6 sts, inc; rep from * 7 times total, join. (56 sts)
These increase rounds form the rounded base. Rounds 1–6 measure 1.5 in (3.8 cm) along the side.
Tube
Rnds 7–58: Sc in each st around, join. (56 sts each rnd)
These 52 even rounds add 13 in (33.0 cm), so the body now measures 14.5 in (36.8 cm). Don’t fasten off; go straight on to the Top Border.
Pattern: Hanging Strap
With coral, ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (5 sts)
Rows 2–40: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sts each row)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap is 10 in (25.4 cm) long and about 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide.
Pattern: Poppy (Make 3)
Rnd 1: With black, make a magic ring, work 5 sc in the ring, sl st to the first sc. (5 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to the first sc. (10 sts) Fasten off black. The center is about 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Rnd 3: Join coral with a sc in any st, ch 3, sk next st. *Sc in next st, ch 3, sk next st; rep from * 3 more times, sl st to the first sc. (5 sc and 5 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 4 (front petals): In each ch-3 sp work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc), sl st to the first sc. (35 sts: 5 petals of 7 sts)
The front layer is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.
Rnd 5: Fold the front petals toward you. Sl st around the post of the first Rnd 3 sc from behind. *Ch 5, post sc from behind around the next Rnd 3 sc; rep from * 3 more times. Ch 5, sl st in the first sl st. (5 ch-5 sps behind the front layer)
Rnd 6 (back petals): In each ch-5 sp work (sc, hdc, 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc), sl st to the first sc. (55 sts: 5 petals of 11 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each back petal sits behind a front petal and extends past it, so a wider edge of petal shows around each front petal. The finished poppy is about 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
Pattern: Leaf Sprig (Make 4)
Leaf (made 3 times per sprig): Ch 7. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook and working in the back bumps, work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc. (6 sts) Turn the piece so you can work into the remaining loops of the same chains, and work sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc. (12 sts per leaf)
Sprig: With olive green, ch 11 for the stem.
- Leaf A: Work one Leaf, then sl st in the last stem ch made.
- Leaf B: Work one Leaf, then sl st in the same stem ch. Leaves A and B form a V at the tip.
- Working back down the stem, sl st in the next 4 stem ch.
- Leaf C: Work one Leaf, then sl st in the same stem ch as the last sl st.
- Sl st in the remaining 6 stem ch. (1 + 4 + 6 = 11 stem ch)
Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Each leaf is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long, and the whole sprig is about 4 in (10.2 cm) long.
Border
The border goes on the body only. Its gauge matches the body: 3.5 sts per inch. The top trim is 2 rounds and measures 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Lay the tube flat with the join line on the left fold. Each flat side has 28 sts, counting the fold stitch at each end. Front 28 + back 28 = 56 sts. Count each fold stitch only once.
Top Border
Rnd 59: Sc in each st around, join. (56 sts: 28 per flat side)
Rnd 60: Sl st loosely in each st around. (56 sl sts: 28 per flat side) Fasten off and weave in the end.
Bottom Edge
Bottom Rnd: Join coral in any free loop of the foundation chain. Sl st loosely in each foundation loop around. (28 sl sts: 14 per flat side) Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: Both trims put exactly one stitch into each existing stitch, with no increases or decreases. The top stays at 56 sts and 16 in (40.6 cm), and the bottom stays at 28 sts and 8 in (20.3 cm), so nothing flares or pulls in. Slip stitches tend to tighten an edge, so keep them loose. If the rim puckers, rework Rnd 60 with a 5.5 mm hook.
Assembly
Strap: Call the stitch at the join line st 1 of Rnd 60. Lay one strap end inside the tube over sts 1–5, overlapping the rim by 3 rows, or 0.75 in (1.9 cm). Whipstitch it down along all its edges. Sts 29–33 sit directly opposite, with 23 sts between the strap ends on each side. Sew the other strap end there the same way. The visible part of the strap is 8.5 in (21.6 cm) long.
Front face: The front face is centered on st 17, and the back face on st 45. Pin all the appliqués in place before you sew:
- Poppy 1: center 2.75 in (7.0 cm) below the top edge, slightly left of center.
- Poppy 2: center 6.25 in (15.9 cm) below the top edge, slightly right of center.
- Poppy 3: center 9.75 in (24.8 cm) below the top edge, slightly left of center.
- Leaf sprigs: Put one beside the top poppy, one in each gap between poppies, and one below the bottom poppy. Angle the stems toward the flowers.
Sew each poppy through the black center and the base of the back petals only, so the front petals stay free. Sew the sprigs along the stem and at each leaf base. Don’t let your stitches pass through to the back face.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the inside.
- Stuff the tube with a rolled towel so it holds an even, round shape.
- Mist the body until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Smooth the rounds so the join line runs straight.
- Check that the height is 15 in (38.1 cm) along the side.
- Cup the front petals slightly forward with your fingers.
- Pin the strap flat and straight.
- Let everything dry completely before you remove the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Height is 15 in (38.1 cm) along the side.
- The top edge measures 16 in (40.6 cm) around.
- The bottom opening is 8 in (20.3 cm) around, and a bag pulls through it easily.
- The join line is straight and sits at one side.
- The strap ends are exactly opposite each other, with 23 sts between them on each side.
- Each poppy has a black center, 5 front petals and 5 back petals.
- The front petals lift free of the body.
- The sprigs are secured at the stem and at every leaf base.
- No yarn ends show on the outside.
Troubleshooting
The base ruffles. Your increase rounds are too loose. Rework Rnds 3–6 with a hook one size smaller.
The tube twists. Always work the first sc into the same stitch as the join, and check that the join line stays vertical.
Bags won’t pull out. The bottom edge is too tight. Rework it more loosely.
The poppies look flat. You’ve sewn through the front petals. Sew only through the center and the back petal bases.
The strap stretches. Add a second line of stitches across each strap end, or work the strap with a 4.5 mm hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape the petals while damp and lay flat to dry. Don’t tumble dry, because heat can shrink cotton.
Final Notes
All the measurements build on each other, starting from the gauge of 14 sts per 4 in (10.2 cm):
– The bottom ring is 28 sts, or 8 in (20.3 cm) around.
– Four increase rounds bring it to 56 sts, or 16 in (40.6 cm) around.
– Fifty-two even rounds take the body to 14.5 in (36.8 cm).
– The top border finishes the holder at 15 in (38.1 cm).
The strap ends sit 28 sts apart, and the poppies run down the front between them. If you hit each checkpoint, the holder will hang straight and dispense smoothly.
Happy crocheting!