This plastic bag holder looks good enough to hang where people can see it. Columns of stacked V-stitch shells run down the body like leaf veins, and diamond-shaped openings between them let the white bags show through. A solid band at the top and a drawstring band at the bottom hold the shape.
The holder is shown in soft sage green and dusty rose. Any calm kitchen color works, and the pattern is the same for every colorway. The look is modern farmhouse: chunky texture, matte cotton, and a simple bow at the base.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide at the top when laid flat, about 7 in (17.8 cm) wide at the middle, and 16.5 in (41.9 cm) tall. The strap adds about 4 in (10.2 cm), so the holder hangs about 20.5 in (52.1 cm) from the hook.
You work the holder from the top down in joined rounds: first a solid top band, then 16 lace rounds, then a bottom band that decreases and ends with an eyelet round. To finish, you add a rim round, a short strap, and a drawstring cord.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) flat width at the top, about 7 in (17.8 cm) at the middle, 16.5 in (41.9 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 6.0 mm (J-10)
- Number of pieces: 1 body (strap worked onto it) plus 1 drawstring cord
- Layout: Single tube, worked top-down in joined rounds
- Piece size: 36 stitches around at the top band, 12 in (30.5 cm) circumference
- Size before border (rim and bottom band): Top band plus lace, 14 in (35.6 cm) tall
- Border depth: Bottom band 2.5 in (6.4 cm); top rim adds less than 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth bulky cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when the holder is packed with bags, and it doesn’t stretch out on the hook. Avoid fuzzy or loosely plied yarn, because it hides the shell lines.
- Sage green (or Color A of your choice): 120 g, about 180 m
- Dusty rose (only if you’re making a second holder): 120 g, about 180 m
One holder uses about 95 g. The amounts above include a margin for the gauge swatch and the drawstring.
Tools:
– 6.0 mm (J-10) crochet hook
– 2 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Rust-proof pins and a rolled towel or a tall bottle for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- BLO – back loop only
Special stitch – Shell: (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in the same stitch or space. Each shell has 4 dc and 1 ch-2 space. Stacking shells round after round makes the V-shaped leaf columns.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Single crochet gauge: 12 sc and 12 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Lace gauge: 4 lace rounds = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
Crochet the top band (Rounds 1–6) first and measure it before you go on. This band works as your swatch.
Checkpoints:
– After Round 6: circumference 12 in (30.5 cm), height 2 in (5.1 cm)
– After Round 14: circumference about 14 in (35.6 cm), height about 8 in (20.3 cm)
– After Round 22: height 14 in (35.6 cm)
– After Round 29: height 16.5 in (41.9 cm), bottom circumference 8 in (20.3 cm)
If your band is too big (more than 12.5 in / 31.8 cm around), go down one hook size and start again. If it’s too small (less than 11.5 in / 29.2 cm around), go up one hook size. Don’t change the stitch count, because the lace repeat needs a multiple of 6.
Pattern
Top Band
Foundation: Ch 36. Join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist it.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (36 sc)
Rounds 2–6: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (36 sc)
Place a marker in the first stitch of each round. The band should measure 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
Lace Body
The lace alternates two kinds of rounds. In A rounds, you work shells with plain chain gaps between them. In B rounds, you work shells with a single crochet bar that closes off each gap into a diamond. Making the gaps longer in the middle rounds gives the body its gentle lantern swell.
Round 7 (A, small): Sl st in next st. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same st. Ch 3, sk 5 sts, shell in next st. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. Ch 3, sk 5 sts, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (6 shells, 6 ch-3 gaps; 24 dc)
Each 6-stitch section of the band holds 1 shell and 1 gap, so the 36 stitches give 6 even repeats.
Turning into the next shell: At the end of every lace round, sl st in the next dc and into the ch-2 space of the shell. Each new round starts with ch 3 (counts as dc), then (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same space.
Round 8 (B, small): Start the beginning shell as above. Ch 1, sc in the ch-3 gap, ch 1, shell in the next shell’s ch-2 sp. Repeat around, ending with ch 1, sc in the last gap, ch 1. Join. (6 shells, 6 sc bars; 24 dc)
Round 9 (A, small): Beginning shell. Ch 3, shell in next shell sp. Repeat around, ending with ch 3. Join. Skip the ch-1, sc, ch-1 group under each new ch-3. (6 shells, 6 ch-3 gaps)
Round 10 (B, small): Repeat Round 8. (6 shells, 6 sc bars)
Round 11 (A, large): Beginning shell. Ch 5, shell in next shell sp. Repeat around, ending with ch 5. Join. (6 shells, 6 ch-5 gaps)
Round 12 (B, large): Beginning shell. Ch 2, sc in the ch-5 gap, ch 2, shell in next shell sp. Repeat around, ending with ch 2, sc, ch 2. Join. (6 shells, 6 sc bars)
Rounds 13, 15, 17: Repeat Round 11.
Rounds 14, 16, 18: Repeat Round 12.
Check your measurements after Round 14: the circumference is about 14 in (35.6 cm) and the height is about 8 in (20.3 cm).
Rounds 19 and 21: Repeat Round 9 (A, small, ch-3 gaps).
Rounds 20 and 22: Repeat Round 8 (B, small, ch-1, sc, ch-1).
The holder now measures 14 in (35.6 cm) tall. Each column should show 16 stacked V’s.
Bottom Band
Round 23 (conversion round): Ch 1. Around each repeat:
– sc in each of the 2 dc
– sc in the shell’s ch-2 sp
– sc in each of the next 2 dc
– skip the ch-1, sc in the bar sc, skip the ch-1
Join.
Count: 30 sts worked one per existing stitch (24 dc + 6 bar sc), plus 6 extra sts worked into the ch-2 spaces = 36 sc.
Round 24: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (36 sc)
Round 25: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog. Repeat around. Join. (30 sc)
Round 26: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. Repeat around. Join. (24 sc)
Round 27 (eyelets): Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), sk 1 st. Dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st. Repeat around. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (12 dc + 12 ch-1 sps = 24 sts)
Round 28: Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (24 sc)
Round 29: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (24 sc)
Fasten off and weave in the end. The bottom opening is 8 in (20.3 cm) around before you gather it.
Hanging Strap
Flatten the holder so the beginning-of-round marker sits at one side fold. The rim stitches numbered 1–3 are on one side, and stitches 19–21 are exactly opposite.
Rim round: Join yarn in the remaining foundation loop of stitch 1 at the top edge. Sl st loosely in each foundation loop around. Join. (36 sl st) This round gives the top a firm, neat edge.
Strap: Ch 1, sc in the sl st at stitches 1, 2, and 3. (3 sc) Turn.
Strap rows 2–30: Ch 1, sc in each st. Turn. (3 sc)
The strap measures 10 in (25.4 cm). Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Sew the end to stitches 19–21 on the inside of the rim. Keep the strap untwisted so it rises about 4 in (10.2 cm) above the rim.
Drawstring
Ch 80, or chain until the cord measures 26 in (66.0 cm). Sl st in the back bump of each ch back along the chain, then fasten off.
Weave the cord in and out through the 12 eyelets of Round 27, starting and ending at the center front. Tie an overhand knot 1 in (2.5 cm) from each end and trim the tails to 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Border
On this holder, the top rim and the bottom band act as the border, so they follow the same rules a border would.
Border gauge: 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the top band.
Counts per side (holder laid flat):
– Rim round: 36 sl st, so 18 per flat side
– Round 23: 36 sc, so 18 per side. This matches the top band, so the lace sits between two bands of the same width.
– Round 25: 30 sc, so 15 per side
– Round 26: 24 sc, so 12 per side
– Rounds 27–29: 24 sts, so 12 per side (6 eyelets per side)
Why the math works: The lace has 6 repeats of 6 stitches. In Round 23, each repeat gives back exactly 6 sc (5 worked one per existing stitch plus 1 in the ch-2 space). That’s how the band returns to 36 stitches without any guesswork.
Each decrease round removes 6 stitches, one per repeat. Every shell column narrows by the same amount, so the columns stay straight. The 24 final stitches divide evenly into 12 eyelets for the drawstring.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends before blocking, but don’t trim them yet.
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes, then press the water out gently. Don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove the extra water.
- Slide it over a tall bottle or a rolled towel about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across, so the lace opens evenly.
- Line the shell columns up vertically and pull each diamond opening into shape.
- Pin the strap straight, then flatten the top band and check that it is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
- Let the holder dry completely, then trim the woven ends.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Top band: 36 sc, 6 in (15.2 cm) flat width
- 6 straight shell columns with 16 V’s each
- Diamond openings are larger in Rounds 11–18 than in Rounds 7–10 and 19–22
- Round 23 has exactly 36 sc
- 12 eyelets in Round 27
- Total height is 16.5 in (41.9 cm)
- Strap is attached at opposite rim points and isn’t twisted
- Drawstring knots are secure and the bow ties easily
Troubleshooting
Shell columns spiral around the tube: You probably moved into the next shell incorrectly at the end of a round. Always sl st into the next dc and then into the ch-2 space before starting the new round.
Middle doesn’t swell: Your ch-5 gaps are too tight. Chain more loosely, or add a 6th chain to each gap on Rounds 11, 13, 15, and 17 only.
Round 23 count is off: Count each repeat. You need 6 stitches per repeat: 2 sc, 1 in the space, 2 sc, and 1 in the bar.
Bags fall out: Pull the drawstring tighter so the opening is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.
Strap stretches: Use a hook one size smaller for the strap rows.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, or machine wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag. Reshape the holder and lay it flat or slip it over a bottle to dry.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain to follow. The 36-stitch top band sets a 12 in (30.5 cm) circumference and a 6 in (15.2 cm) flat width. Sixteen lace rounds add 12 in (30.5 cm) and swell to about 7 in (17.8 cm) wide. Round 23 brings the count back to 36 stitches, and the bottom band decreases to 24 stitches for the 12 eyelets. The finished holder is 16.5 in (41.9 cm) tall plus the 4 in (10.2 cm) strap. Check each stage before you move on, and the finished holder will hang straight and hold plenty of bags.
Happy crocheting!