This hanging holder stores three spare toilet rolls in a column of open lattice baskets. Each basket has a solid burgundy base, cream diamond mesh walls, a burgundy scalloped rim and a layered flower with two leaves on the front. Two cream straps run up both sides and loop over a wooden ring, so the whole piece hangs from one hook.
The colors are cream, deep burgundy, olive green and a small amount of golden yellow. The style is soft and cottage-like, and the open mesh lets the white rolls show through.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished basket measures about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall. The holder hangs about 24 in (61.0 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.
You work each basket in the round from the bottom up: a flat single crochet base, solid wall rounds, chain-loop mesh, a closing round and then the scalloped rim. You make the flowers and leaves separately and sew them on. You work the straps flat in rows, sew them to the baskets and fold them around the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide x 24 in (61.0 cm) long overall
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 2 straps, 3 two-layer flowers with centers, 6 leaves
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets hanging from 1 wooden ring
- Piece size (one basket): 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across x 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
- Size before border: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across x 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Border (rim) depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape in a damp bathroom and keeps the mesh crisp. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because it blurs the lattice and lets the baskets sag.
- Cream (A): 60 g, about 100 m (basket walls, straps, inner flowers)
- Burgundy (B): 60 g, about 100 m (bases, rims, outer flowers)
- Olive green (C): 10 g, about 15 m (leaves)
- Golden yellow (D): 5 g, about 5 m (flower centers)
These amounts include about 25 percent extra for swatching and sewing.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors and tape measure
- Rustproof pins and a blocking surface
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- Rnd – round
Special stitch – Scallop: skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in next st. Each scallop uses 6 sts of the round below.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). That is 4 sts and 4 rows per 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one basket first. Its base works as your gauge swatch, and every later number depends on it.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 6 (36 sts): base about 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across.
- After Rnd 12 (72 sts): base about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and lying flat.
- After Rnd 16: wall about 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 22: wall about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 23: wall about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
If your base is too big: use a 4 mm (US G-6) hook. If it is too small: use a 5 mm (US H-8) hook. A basket narrower than 5.25 in (13.3 cm) will hold a standard roll too tightly. If the base ruffles, your tension is loose. If it cups upward, your tension is tight. Change the hook size and keep the stitch counts the same.
Basket (Make 3)
Join each round with a sl st to the first st, then ch 1 to start the next round. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Base
With B, make an MR.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc 6 times. (18)
Rnd 4: sc 2, inc 6 times. (24)
Rnd 5: sc 3, inc 6 times. (30)
Rnd 6: sc 4, inc 6 times. (36)
Rnd 7: sc 5, inc 6 times. (42)
Rnd 8: sc 6, inc 6 times. (48)
Rnd 9: sc 7, inc 6 times. (54)
Rnd 10: sc 8, inc 6 times. (60)
Rnd 11: sc 9, inc 6 times. (66)
Rnd 12: sc 10, inc 6 times. (72)
Walls
Rnd 13 (turning round): sc in BLO of each st around. 72 worked + 0 added = (72). The unused front loops make a neat ridge where the wall turns upward.
Rnds 14–15: sc in each st around. (72)
Fasten off B and join A.
Rnd 16: sc in each st around. (72)
The burgundy band (Rnds 13–15) is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall. The wall is now 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Diamond Mesh
Rnd 17 (conversion to mesh): ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, skip 2 sts, sc in next st 23 times, ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in first sc. (24 loops)
The ch 2 + dc counts as the 24th loop. It also leaves your hook in the middle of that loop, ready for the next round. Each loop covers 3 sts, and 72 ÷ 3 = 24 loops.
Rnds 18–21: ch 1, sc around the post of the dc you just made, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop 23 times, ch 2, dc in first sc. (24 loops in each round)
Rnd 22: ch 1, sc around the post of the dc you just made, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop 23 times, ch 5, sl st in first sc. (24 loops)
Each sc goes into the center of a loop below, so every round moves the loops half a loop over. This makes the diamond lattice. The mesh (Rnds 17–22) is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall, and the wall is now 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
Rnd 23 (closing round): ch 1, 3 sc in each ch-5 loop around, sl st in first sc. (24 loops x 3 sc = 72)
The wall is now 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. Fasten off. You will work the rim (Rnds 24–25) after you attach the straps.
Mark the Sides
Place markers in st 1 and st 37 of Rnd 23. These two side points are exactly 36 sts apart. The round joins sit at st 1, so the strap will cover them. The center front is st 19.
Outer Flower (Make 3)
With B, make an MR.
Rnd 1: 10 sc in MR, sl st to first sc. (10)
Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in next st, ch 3, skip 1 st 5 times, sl st to first sc. (5 sc, 5 ch-3 sps)
Rnd 3: (sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc) in next ch-3 sp, sl st in next sc 5 times. (5 petals of 8 sts = 40 sts, plus 5 sl sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The flower is about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across.
Inner Flower (Make 3)
With A, make an MR.
Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR, sl st to first sc. (5)
Rnd 2: (sc, 3 dc, sc) in next st 5 times, sl st to first sc. (5 petals of 5 sts = 25 sts)
Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. The flower is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.
Flower Center (Make 3)
With D, make an MR. Work 6 sc in the MR, pull it fully closed and sl st to the first sc. (6) Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. The center is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) across.
Leaf (Make 6)
With C, ch 7. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, then sc, hdc, dc, hdc and sc in the next 5 chs. (6) Ch 1 at the tip. Working along the other side of the chain, sc, hdc, dc and hdc in the next 4 chs, then sl st in the last ch. (6 more, 12 total)
Fasten off and leave an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. The leaf is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
Assemble the Appliqués
- Sew the center to the middle of the inner flower.
- Place the inner flower on the outer flower so that each cream petal sits between two burgundy petals. Sew around the inner flower’s Rnd 1.
- Tuck one leaf behind each side of the outer flower, with the tips pointing outward and slightly down.
- Center the flower over Rnds 18–21 at st 19. Sew through the sc stitches of the mesh, not only through the chain loops. Then sew each leaf down along its center line.
Strap (Make 2)
With A, ch 3.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch, turn. (2)
Rows 2–92: ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (2)
Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing. Each strap is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide and 23 in (58.4 cm) long.
Row map:
- Rows 1–8: 2 in (5.1 cm), loop around the ring
- Rows 9–22: 3.5 in (8.9 cm), hanger
- Rows 23–40: 4.5 in (11.4 cm), top basket
- Rows 41–48: 2 in (5.1 cm), gap
- Rows 49–66: 4.5 in (11.4 cm), middle basket
- Rows 67–74: 2 in (5.1 cm), gap
- Rows 75–92: 4.5 in (11.4 cm), bottom basket
Check: 8 + 14 + 18 + 8 + 18 + 8 + 18 = 92 rows.
Make All Pieces
- A (cream): 3 basket walls (Rnds 16–23), 3 inner flowers, 2 straps
- B (burgundy): 3 bases (Rnds 1–15), 3 rims (worked later), 3 outer flowers
- C (olive): 6 leaves
- D (yellow): 3 centers
Layout (front view):
[ RING ]
/ \
strap strap
| [ BASKET 1 ] |
| gap |
| [ BASKET 2 ] |
| gap |
| [ BASKET 3 ] |
Joining
Method: whipstitch the straps to the outside of each basket wall at the side markers, using A or the strap tail.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: each basket has 18 strap rows. The lower 15 rows lie along Rnds 13–23, which are 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall at 4 rows per inch. The upper 3 rows lie beside the rim you add later. For the top basket, sew Rows 26–40 to the wall and leave Rows 23–25 free for now. For the middle basket, sew Rows 52–66. For the bottom basket, sew Rows 78–92.
- Line up strap Row 92 with the base edge (Rnd 13) at the st 1 marker of the bottom basket.
- Sew both long edges of the strap through Rnds 13–16 and Rnd 23. Where the strap crosses the mesh, catch every sc it passes.
- Sew the second strap at st 37 in the same way.
- Leave the gap rows free, then attach the middle and top baskets.
- Slide the ring onto both straps. Fold Rows 1–8 around the ring to the back and sew the Row 1 edge to the back of Rows 9–10.
Tension: sew firmly but without puckering. If the strap ripples, you have sewn too many rows against too short a section of wall. Check the row map again.
Size checkpoint: hold the holder up by the ring. Each gap should be 2 in (5.1 cm) and the hanger should be 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
Border (Scalloped Rim)
You work the rim on each basket separately, so seams add no stitches. Every rim starts from that basket’s own 72 sts.
Border gauge: 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm). Each half of the rim (sts 1–36 and sts 37–72) has 36 sts and is about 9 in (22.9 cm) long.
Join B in st 1 of Rnd 23. Work behind the strap without catching it.
Rnd 24: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. 72 worked + 0 added = (72; 36 per half)
Rnd 25: sl st in first st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in next st 12 times. Work the last sl st into the first sl st. (12 scallops; 6 per half)
Why the math works: each scallop uses 6 sts, and 72 ÷ 6 = 12. The sl sts fall on sts 1, 7, 13 and so on, so st 37 (1 + 36) is also a sl st dip between scallops. Both straps sit in a dip, with 6 scallops on the front and 6 on the back. Each scallop is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide.
Fasten off. Tack strap Rows 23–25 (and the matching rows on the lower baskets) to the rim at the dip.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends through solid sc rounds, not through the mesh.
- Spray the baskets lightly with water until damp.
- Put a toilet roll or a rolled towel in each basket to set the round shape.
- Pin the scallops so they stand up evenly.
- Flatten the petals and leaves with your fingers.
- Pin the straps straight.
- Let everything dry completely before you hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and sits flat.
- Each basket is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall and has 24 mesh loops per round.
- Each rim has 12 even scallops.
- The straps sit in rim dips, 36 sts apart.
- The flowers are centered on the front.
- The gaps are 2 in (5.1 cm), and the holder hangs straight at about 24 in (61.0 cm).
Troubleshooting
- Base cups upward: your tension is tight. Go up one hook size.
- Base ruffles: your tension is loose. Go down one hook size.
- Loop count changes: count 24 loops after every round, and start each round around the post of the dc.
- Mesh too short: make your chains looser so the strap rows still line up.
- Holder hangs crooked: check that both straps are sewn at the same row numbers.
- Flower curls: sew it down at more points and block it flat.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Reshape each basket over a roll while it is damp and dry it flat.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other. A gauge of 4 sts per 1 in (2.5 cm) gives a 72-st base that is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across. Those 72 sts become 24 mesh loops, then 72 sc again, then 12 scallops. Each basket stands 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall. Two straps of 92 rows, each 23 in (58.4 cm) long, join the baskets into a holder about 24 in (61.0 cm) long.
Happy crocheting!