The Daisy Trio is a three-tier hanging holder for spare toilet rolls. Three round sage green baskets are stacked on two side straps, and a wooden ring at the top hangs from a hook or towel bar. Each basket has a crisp cream rim and a cream daisy with a mustard center and two moss green leaves.
The look is soft and cottage-style but sturdy. Dense single crochet keeps the walls upright, so each basket holds its shape even when empty. The colors are sage green, cream, mustard yellow, and moss green.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide across the straps and about 21 in (53.3 cm) long from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket. Each basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) across and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
To build it, you work three baskets in joined rounds and one long strap in rows. The strap folds through the ring, and each half is sewn down one side of the baskets. A cream border is then worked around each basket’s top edge. Last, you make three flowers and six leaves and sew them on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide × 21 in (53.3 cm) long including the ring
- Skill level: Easy / Advanced Beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4 medium), single strand
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 1 strap, 3 flowers, 6 leaves, 1 wooden ring
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked vertically, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps between them
- Basket size: 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Basket size before border: 5 in (12.7 cm) diameter × 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm), 2 rounds
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape and copes with bathroom humidity. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylics, because the baskets will sag.
- Sage green (MC): 100 g, about 180 yd (165 m), for the baskets and strap
- Cream (CC1): 30 g, about 55 yd (50 m), for the rims and petals
- Mustard yellow (CC2): 5 g, about 10 yd (9 m), for the flower centers
- Moss green (CC3): 10 g, about 20 yd (18 m), for the leaves
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) diameter
– Tapestry needle
– 6 locking stitch markers
– Straight pins
– Measuring tape
– Scissors
– One standard toilet roll, for fit testing
All quantities include a margin of about 15 percent for swatching and differences in tension.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitch – rev sc: Working from left to right (right-handers), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This makes the rope-like, beaded top edge on the cream rim.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc, worked firmly.
Make one basket first and check it at each stage before making the others.
- After Round 9 (base): 54 sts, 5 in (12.7 cm) across, lying flat.
- After Round 22 (walls): walls stand 3.25 in (8.3 cm) high from the base fold.
- Fit test: a standard roll, about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall, should drop in easily. The inner diameter is about 4.75 in (12.1 cm).
If the base is too big, or ruffles, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, or cups upward, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Change the hook rather than the stitch counts so that the strap placement and rim math still work.
Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds. At the end of each round, sl st to the first sc and ch 1. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Joining every round keeps the seam in one straight column, and that column will be hidden under a strap.
Base (sage green)
- Round 1: 6 sc in MR, join. (6 sts)
- Round 2: 2 sc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
- Round 3: sc in next st, 2 sc in next st 6 times, join. (18 sts)
- Round 4: sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times, join. (24 sts)
- Round 5: sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times, join. (30 sts)
- Round 6: sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times, join. (36 sts)
- Round 7: sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times, join. (42 sts)
- Round 8: sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times, join. (48 sts)
- Round 9: sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times, join. (54 sts)
Checkpoint: the base is 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
Walls
- Round 10 (conversion round): sc in BLO of each st around, join. (54 sts = 54 worked 1-per-stitch + 0 added) This makes a crisp fold where the base meets the wall.
- Rounds 11–22: sc in each st around, join. (54 sts in each round)
After Round 22, fasten off sage green, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Checkpoint: the walls are 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall over 13 rounds (Rounds 10–22).
Mark strap positions: Put a marker in st 1 of Round 22, which sits above the seam column. Put a second marker in st 28, directly opposite. These two marked columns are where the straps go. Sts 2–27 form the front and sts 29–54 the back.
Strap (Make 1)
With sage green, ch 134.
- Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (133 sts)
- Rows 2–3: ch 1 (does not count), sc in each st across, turn. (133 sts in each row)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Checkpoint: the strap measures 38 in (96.5 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide, laid flat and unstretched.
Flower (Make 3)
- Round 1: With mustard, 6 sc in MR, join. (6 sts)
- Round 2: 2 sc in each st around, join. (12 sts) Fasten off mustard.
- Round 3: Join cream in any st. sl st in next st, (hdc, 3 dc, hdc) in next st 6 times, join to the first sl st. (6 petals; 36 sts = 6 sl st + 30 petal sts)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: the flower is 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across, and the mustard center is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) across.
Leaf (Make 6)
With moss green, ch 6.
- Side 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch. The ch-2 forms the pointed tip.
- Side 2: Rotate the work and continue along the other side of the foundation chain: hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in the first sc.
Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail.
Checkpoint: each leaf is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long.
Make All Pieces
- Sage green: 3 baskets (Rounds 1–22), 1 strap
- Cream: 3 basket borders (worked after joining), 3 flower petal rounds
- Mustard: 3 flower centers
- Moss green: 6 leaves
Layout, front view:
( ring )
/ \
strap A strap B <- 4 in (10.2 cm) drop
| [ Basket 1 ] |
| gap | <- 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
| [ Basket 2 ] |
| gap | <- 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
| [ Basket 3 ] |
Joining
Mark the strap. Lay the strap flat and measure from end A. Place markers at:
- 0–3.25 in (0–8.3 cm): sewn to Basket 3
- 5.25–8.5 in (13.3–21.6 cm): sewn to Basket 2
- 10.5–13.75 in (26.7–34.9 cm): sewn to Basket 1
- 19 in (48.3 cm): fold point (the center of the strap)
Measure the same distances from end B for the second half. Each half is 18.25 in (46.4 cm) from the fold to its end. That length breaks down as 3 basket heights (11.25 in / 28.6 cm), 2 gaps (3 in / 7.6 cm), and a 4 in (10.2 cm) drop, which includes the half-wrap over the ring.
Attach the ring. Pass the strap through the ring and fold it at the 19 in (48.3 cm) mark so the ring rests in the fold.
Sew the baskets. Start with Basket 3. Line up end A with the base fold (Round 10) and center the strap over the marked st 1 column. Using sage green and a whipstitch, sew both long edges of the strap to the wall, from Round 10 up to Round 22.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Work one whipstitch per wall round, so each strap edge gets 13 stitches. About 11 strap stitches cover those 13 rounds. Don’t try to match them stitch for stitch; ease the strap evenly instead. The 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of strap above Round 22 stays free so the border can be worked beside it.
Sew end B to the st 28 column in the same way. Then attach Baskets 2 and 1 in their marked zones on both halves, checking that the seam column always sits under strap A.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug but not tight. The strap should lie flat with no puckers, and the basket wall should not dimple inward.
Size checkpoint: Hang the holder from the ring. The baskets should hang level with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps, and the distance from the ring fold to the bottom of Basket 3 should be 18.25 in (46.4 cm).
Border
Work the border on each joined basket. It is worked into the tops of the Round 22 stitches only. The strap stays on the outside and is not caught in the stitches.
Border gauge: same as the body, 14 sts and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Round 23: Join cream in st 2 (just past strap A). sc in each st around, working past the strap on the inside edge, join. (54 sts = 54 worked 1-per-stitch + 0 added; 27 front, sts 2–28, and 27 back, sts 29–54 and 1)
- Round 24: ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. (54 sts: 27 front, 27 back)
Fasten off and weave in the end on the inside.
Why the math works: 54 sts split exactly in half between the two strap columns at sts 1 and 28, so the front and back of each basket have 27 sts. Neither border round adds or removes stitches, so the rim keeps the same 5 in (12.7 cm) circumference as the wall and neither flares nor pulls in. The two rounds add exactly 0.5 in (1.3 cm), bringing the basket to 3.75 in (9.5 cm). A standard 4.25 in (10.8 cm) roll still stands about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the rim, as in the finished piece.
Appliqué Placement
- Center a flower on the front of each basket, over st 14 or 15 and roughly Rounds 14–18.
- Tuck the base of one leaf under the petals on each side so the leaves point outward and slightly down.
- Pin all three layers. Sew the leaves first with moss green, then the flower with its cream tail, stitching around the petal bases and the center ring.
- Make sure no stitches show on the inside of the basket.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the inside of the baskets.
- Put a toilet roll in each basket to support the walls.
- Mist the piece lightly or hover a steam iron 1 in (2.5 cm) above it. Never press the fabric.
- Smooth the flower petals flat with your fingers and pin the leaf tips if needed.
- Lay the holder flat, with the straps straight and the gaps at 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- Let it dry completely, then remove the rolls and pins.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base has 54 sts and measures 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
- Each basket is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall including the border.
- The seam column of each basket is hidden under strap A.
- The straps are 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide, flat, and untwisted.
- The gaps between baskets are 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- The border has 54 sts per round (27 front, 27 back) and lies flat.
- Each flower is centered between the straps, with one leaf on each side.
- The holder hangs straight from the ring.
Troubleshooting
- Base ruffles: your tension is too loose or the hook too big. Go down 0.5 mm.
- Base cups: your tension is too tight. Go up 0.5 mm.
- Walls lean outward: you missed the BLO round, or the walls are loose. Redo Round 10 in BLO.
- Roll won’t fit: check the base count against 54 sts and gauge again.
- Strap twists: unpick the sewing and realign it so the same side faces out on every basket.
- Baskets tilt: the strap zones are uneven. Re-measure from each strap end.
- Border flares: your rev sc is too loose. Work it with a 4.5 mm hook.
- Petals curl: block them flat and pin while damp.
Care
Hand wash cool and lay flat to dry, reshaping the baskets over toilet rolls. Don’t tumble dry or iron the appliqués directly.
Final Notes
Every measurement in this pattern builds on the one before it:
- Gauge of 14 sts per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 54-st base, 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
- 13 wall rounds give 3.25 in (8.3 cm) of wall, and the 2-round border brings each basket to 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
- A 133-st strap measures 38 in (96.5 cm) and folds into two 18.25 in (46.4 cm) halves that carry the three baskets.
Check each link in that chain as you go and the holder will hang straight and hold its rolls neatly.
Happy crocheting!